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WAR GARDEN
VICTORIOUS

CHARLES LATHROP PACK

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

ITS WAR TIME NEED AND ITS ECONOMIC VALUE IN PEACE

Will you have a part

I Victory?

"Every Garden a Munition Plant"

*^ Charles Lathrop Pack, Pr«,<W

THIS POSTER, USED IN 1918, AND WITH DIFFERENT SLOGANS IN

1919, WAS POPULAR WHEREVER IT APPEARED AND DID MUCH TO

EXTEND THE WAR GARDEN MOVEMENT

( ;

The War Garden Victorious

CHARLES LATHROP PACK

ILLUSTRATED

PRESS OF

J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY
PHILADELPHIA

COPYRIGHTED IQIQ BY THE NATIONAL WAR GARDEN COMMISSION

Ltb.

*-*

THIS book is dedicated to the War Gardeners
of the United States and Allied countries in
admiration of their success in adding to the
world's supply of food during the World War.

Efc&s^-^ttafe*

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I. How THE NATIONAL WAR GARDEN COMMISSION

CAME INTO BEING i

II. THE STORY OF THE WAR GARDEN 12

III. How WAR GARDENS HELPED 24

IV. TYPES OF WAR GARDENS 35

V. UNCLE SAM'S FIRST WAR GARDEN 46

VI. How BIG BUSINESS HELPED 53

VII. How THE RAILROADS HELPED 68

VIII. THE ARMY OF SCHOOL GARDENERS 73

IX. COMMUNITY GARDENING 79

X. COOPERATION IN GARDENING 89

XI. WAR GARDENS AS CITY ASSETS 96

XII. THE PART PLAYED BY DAYLIGHT SAVING 105

XIII. THE FUTURE OF WAR GARDENING 109

XIV. CONSERVING THE GARDEN SURPLUS 121

XV. COMMUNITY CONSERVATION 126

XVI. CONSERVATION BY DRYING 134

XVII. WHY WE SHOULD USE DRIED FOODS 145

XVIII. THE FUTURE OF DEHYDRATION 155

XIX. COOPERATION OF THE PRESS 165

APPENDIX

" WAR GARDENING," VICTORY EDITION, 1919
" HOME CANNING AND DRYING," VICTORY EDITION, 1919

COLOR PLATES

PAGE

" Every Garden a Munition Plant " Frontispiece

A Poster Spreading the Idea of Militant War Gardens 12

A Poster for 1919, Symbolic of Victory 14

A Poster Which Was Used in 1918, and Which, Amended —
Following Germany's Defeat — Was Also Forceful in 1919 16

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

A First- Year War Garden 4

On Historic Ground 6

A Typical City Garden 8

A Veteran War Gardener 10

No " Slacker Land " Here 18

One of Cleveland's War Gardens 20

No Wonder She Smiles 22

Garden of a Chicago Amateur 26

In an Italian Garden 28

In the Champion Garden City 30

Medal in Commemoration of the War Garden 32

The War Gardener's Boast 34

Pioneers in Summer Hotel Gardening 38

An Army Garden at the Red Cross Threshold 42

A Prize-Winning Garden 44

" Now, Boys, Show 'Em How to Harvest " 46

" Potatoes Up ! Forward March ! " 48

Gathering the Potatoes 50

Going Out to Meet the Crop 52

What a Factory Worker Did 54

All the Family Helps 56

A Versatile Manufacturing Concern 60

War Garden Display in Bank Window 62

Nationality Made No Difference 64

This Is Not Neptune 66

On Pennsylvania Railroad Ground 68

Some Railroad " Soldiers of the Soil " 70

Along the East River Front 74

One of Cleveland's School Gardens 76

xiii

xiv ILLUSTRATIONS

Planting a Community Garden 80

Boy Scouts Raised the Food 82

" Papa, See Me Hoe? " 84

Raising " Food F. O. B. the Factory Door " 86

A Polyglot Assembly 90

Down in " The Yards " 94

'Midst Towering Skyscrapers 98

War Garden on Boston Common 102

" County Fair " in Bryant Park 104

No Age Limit on Patriotism 106

Prize- Winning Canning Team in Iowa no

The Question Is : Does It " Jell "? 112

Received Certificate Number One 114

Interior of a Bank, Not a Fine Grocery 116

Getting the Winter Supply Ready 118

A Prize- Winning Exhibit 122

Girl Scouts Can Can, Too 126

Service Flag of the Home Canner 128

Achievement Club Girls 130

He Is Not Lecturing; He Won the Canning Contest 134

Preparing to Dry Vegetables 136

A Montana Prize Canner 138

They Helped to Can the Kaiser 140

Food Goes with the Flag 142

Toothsome Viands at Dried Food Luncheon 148

Drying Peaches in California 152

Preparing Raisins for the Market 156

Boxes for Drying Raisins 160

The Knights of Printers Ink Heard the Call for Food 166

Typical Headings from News Sheets 170

How Newspaper " Copy " Was Sent Out 172

With Picture and Type the Press Urged Gardening 176

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

THE WAR GARDEN
VICTORIOUS

CHAPTER I

HOW THE NATIONAL WAR GARDEN COMMISSION
CAME INTO BEING

THE NEED OF MAKING EVERY GARDEN A MUNITION PLANT

THE war garden was a war-time necessity.
This was true because war conditions made
it essential that food should be raised where it
had not been produced in peace times, with labor not
engaged in agricultural work and not taken from any
other industry, and in places where it made no demand
upon the railroads already overwhelmed with trans-
portation burdens.

The knowledge that the world faced a deficit in food,
that there existed an emergency which could be met
only by the raising of more food, was apparent to every
well-informed and thinking man and woman during the
early months of 1917.

The author, wishing, as every patriot wished, to do
a war work which was actually necessary, which was
essentially practical, and which would most certainly
aid in making the war successful, conceived the idea in
March, 1917, of inspiring the people of the United States
to plant war gardens in order to increase the supply of
food without the use of land already cultivated, of

2 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

labor already engaged in agricultural work, of time de-
voted to other necessary occupations, and of trans-
portation facilities which were already inadequate to
the demands made upon them.

In March, therefore, some weeks before the United
States entered the war, he organized for this work
a commission known as the National War Garden
Commission.

What were the causes which led to the world's lack
of food and the need of a largely increased production
by the United States to prevent world starvation?

When the drums sounded the call to the colors in the
summer of 1914, three million Frenchmen shouldered
their rifles and marched away from a large proportion
of the five million farms of France; and mostly these
were one-man farms. Russia, a nation almost wholly
agricultural, mobilized perhaps eight millions of men.
All the men of fighting age in Belgium were summoned
to the army. England, possessing only a " contempt-
ible little army, " straightway began a recruiting cam-
paign which within a few years swelled the ranks of her
military forces to five millions. Germany called out
her entire fighting force of military age, an army of
several millions. Austria, Bulgaria and Turkey like-
wise mobilized their full fighting forces. Altogether,
twenty or thirty million men were called away from
their usual pursuits. The vocation of the majority of
them was farming. Thus, at one stroke, practically all
the farms in the embattled nations were swept clear
of male workers.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 3

At the same time the harvests were maturing or al-
ready ripe for the sickle; and over these laden acres
swept the millions of soldiers, trampling, burning and
destroying vast stores of food. In Belgium and France
on the west front, and in Hungary, East Prussia, and
Russia on the east, thousands upon thousands of crop-
bearing acres were devastated and laid waste.

In a few short weeks this was the situation: the food
supply was largely decreased, vast areas of farming
land were rendered unproductive, and the farms were
practically stripped of their accustomed tillers. The
world's food supply was thrown entirely out of balance.
Ordinarily the food-supply system was as nicely
adjusted as the parts of a watch. Production was
balanced against consumption. Given markets were
supplied from given sources.

So unfailing was this system that each of the belli-
gerent nations absolutely depended upon other nations
for certain parts of its food, and had received its expected
supply as unfailingly as our daily milk and newspapers
are delivered at our doors. Thus England procured
most of her sugar from Germany, and Italy got wheat
from Russia, by way of the Dardanelles. At one stroke,
this nicely balanced system was destroyed.

Worse than the wrecking of the system of distribution
was the unbalancing of production itself. Millions
of farms, stripped of their male workers, necessarily
became either wholly unproductive or able to raise
but a fraction of their normal output. In a moment's
time, as it were, the food production of Europe was

4 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

lessened by millions and millions of bushels. Since food
production is not, like Aladdin's palace, the creation of
a night, this inevitably meant a shortage in the world's
food supply. Before the European deficit could be made
good by increased production elsewhere, months and
perhaps years must elapse.

Then came the submarine, further to complicate
matters. By hundreds of thousands of tons the world's
shipping was sent to the bottom of the sea, so that in a
short time the food situation wore an entirely new
aspect. No matter what mountainous piles of proven-
der might accumulate in the distant parts of the earth,
it was not available for the nations at war. Ships
could not be spared for long and distant voyages. If
the 120,000,000 people of the Entente nations were to
have food, if they were to procure enough to keep them
from actual starvation, that food must come from the
nearest markets. Only by sending their ships back and
forth from these markets, back and forth like shuttles
in a loom, could food be transported rapidly enough
to keep this great population from starvation. Prior
to the war England had produced but one-fifth of her
own food supply, France one-half of hers, and Italy
two-thirds of what she consumed, and now their home
production was fearfully decreased. The nearest possible
markets where food could be produced were in North
America, and principally in our own country. Thus the
burden of feeding the Entente fell very largely upon the
United States. Whether we wished to undertake the
task or not, Fate had saddled the burden upon our backs.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 5

This fact, however, was not patent immediately.
At least it was glimpsed only by those of keen pene-
tration. In every country there were some accumulated
stores. These served to delay the approach of actual
hunger. Then came the year, 1916, which was, agri-
culturally, the most disastrous year the world has
known, in recent times. Crops failed everywhere. Eu-
ropean production decreased terribly. Our own fell
off by hundreds of millions of bushels. What was left
of accumulated surpluses was eaten up. The great
drain on our food resources wiped out our surpluses
also, for, in effect at least, we had pooled our food
resources with our fellows in Europe. Thus both
Europe and America found themselves living a hand-
to-mouth existence.

It was barely an existence, at that — at least for our
allies in Europe. So terrible had the food shortage
there become that the daily rations had been cut to the
minimum that would sustain life and strength. The
peasant population of continental Europe, which means
a large part of the people, lives principally upon wheat
in one form or another. In France bread is literally
the staff of life, normally constituting 52 per cent, of
the Frenchman's food. Yet the French bread ration
was successively lowered until at one time it reached
seven ounces a day per capita. In Italy, the sale of
macaroni was entirely prohibited in certain districts,
and the bread ration was cut to eight ounces a day.
Hard-working laborers were allowed fifteen ounces.
In both of these countries even the bread ration of the

6 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

soldier was sharply reduced — a measure to which resort
is had only in situations of direst necessity. Indeed,
many well-informed persons attribute the disaster of
1917 on the Italian front to the lowering of morale con-
sequent upon the cutting of the bread ration. The
soldier well knew that if his food was cut his family
must be well-nigh starving to death.

All Europe had to resort to meatless days. French
milk production, as early as 1916, had fallen off sixty
per cent. Dairy products were so scarce in England
that cream could be secured only upon a physician's
certificate declaring it necessary to the health of the
recipient. Sugar consumption had to be rigidly re-
stricted. The English, who before the war were the
greatest users of sugar in the world, with an average
consumption of something like ninety-three pounds a
person a year, were restricted to twenty-six pounds per
annum, and this ration was later cut to twenty-four
pounds. The French were limited to thirteen pounds a
year, and the sugar ration of the Italian was drastically
cut to nine pounds a year. That is to say, persons of
these nationalities were allowed to buy the quantities
named when the foods were to be had, but often the food
was not to be had. There were entire districts in France,
for instance, where for days no bread at all was to be
obtained and not much else. The actual consumption,
therefore, was less than the ration allowed. Our own
consumption, too, was sharply reduced. Through meat-
less and wheatless days our use of wheat and flesh was
greatly lessened, while the high prices of butter, eggs,

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 7

milk and other foods very materially aided in cutting
consumption generally.

Lessened consumption, however, was not enough.
There had to be increased production. Obviously Eu-
rope could not raise any more food than it was raising.
Since America was the only country from which it was
possible for Europe to draw food, it became necessary
that we should enlarge our yields. The children of
Israel could not make bricks for Pharaoh without
straw; and when we attempted to create food for fam-
ishing Europe we experienced similar difficulty, though
our shortage was of man-power. For a decade or more
there had been a tremendous exodus from our farms.
Our farmers cried for help, but their cry went unheeded
until we found ourselves facing hunger. Then it was
too late. It would have been as easy to put Humpty
Dumpty together again as to bring back to the farm
the thousands of boys and men who had been lured
away by high wages in town and factory. How enor-
mous had been this exodus from the farms we cannot
tell accurately; but we know, from surveys made by the
state, that, a decade ago, Pennsylvania had 160,000
farm hands as against 80,000 in 1918; and that in New
York State in 1918 there were 45,000 fewer farm hands
than in 1917, and 40,000 fewer farm girls. Every agri-
cultural section of the nation was short-handed. When
the crisis came, when the production of more food was
absolutely imperative if the forces fighting for freedom
were not to be starved into surrender and submission,
our farms were found stripped of helpers. Our agri-

8 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

cultural system, weighed in the balance, was found
wanting. The war drums which had called 3,000,000
men from the farms of France, had also created the lure
of high wages in munition plants, and further robbed
the farms of America. When the appeal went out to
our farmers to produce more food they replied in a
memorial to the President, that under existing con-
ditions the previous rate of production could hardly be
maintained, let alone increased — a prophecy which later
proved true.

In the lexicon of the typical American there is no
such word as "cannot." Keen-eyed Americans who saw
the situation as it really was, decided that if the moun-
tain would not go to Mahomet, they would see that
Mahomet went to the mountain. The mountain in this
case was labor, and Mahomet the space necessary for
the production of food. These men, with that vision
without which the people perish, possessed imagination.
They saw little fountains of foodstuffs springing up
everywhere, and the products of these tiny fountains,
like rain-drops on a watershed, uniting to form rushing
streams which would fill the great reservoirs built for
their compounding. The tiny fountains were innumer-
able back-yard and vacant-lot gardens. The problem
was to create these fountains.

This could be accomplished only by the systematic
education of the people, the one hundred million people
of the United States. Such a huge educational cam-
paign could be carried out only through the customary
channels of publicity — the daily press, the periodicals,

f, ,: U.V •-

'« * " .'-..'•'

•A .'. • •• •'

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 9

the bulletin-boards, and other usual avenues. Oddly
enough, it is usually hardest to influence man for his
own benefit. The matter of home food production
was no exception to the rule. Before the people would
spring to the hoe, as they instinctively sprang to the
rifle, they had to be shown, and shown conclusively,
that the bearing of the one implement was as patriotic
a duty as the carrying of the other. Only persistent
publicity, only continual preachment, could convince
the public of that. Hence it was necessary that the
campaign of education be well-conducted and contin-
uous. This called for the creation of an organization
to back the movement and assure its standing. The
author, therefore, realizing the need of developing latent
resources of food supply, and after consultation with
other men who were eager to do their duty in the cir-
cumstances, conceived, and organized the Commission.
This organization consisted of Charles Lathrop
Pack, President, of New Jersey; Luther Burbank,
California; P. P. Claxton, United States Commissioner
of Education, Washington, D. C; Dr. Charles W.
Eliot, Massachusetts; Dr. Irving Fisher, Yale Univer-
sity, Connecticut; Fred H. GofT, Ohio; John Hays
Hammond, Massachusetts; Fairfax Harrison, Virginia;
Hon. Myron T. Herrick, Ohio; President John Grier
Hibben, Princeton University, New Jersey; Emerson
McMillin, New York; A. W. Shaw, Illinois; Mrs. John
Dickinson Sherman, chairman of the Conservation De-
partment of the General Federation of Women's Clubs,
Illinois; Capt. J. B. White, Missouri; Hon. James Wil-

io THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

son, former Secretary of Agriculture, Iowa; Assistant
Secretary of Agriculture, Hon. Carl Vrooman, (for the
year 1917); P. S. Ridsdale, Executive Secretary, who
was also Executive Secretary of the American Forestry
Association, with the Conservation Department of
which the Commission was affiliated, and Norman C.
McLoud, Associate Secretary.

The sole aim of the National War Garden Commis-
sion was to arouse the patriots of America to the im-
portance of putting all idle land to work, to teach them
how to do it, and to educate them to conserve by can-
ning and drying all food they could not use while fresh.
The idea of the "city farmer" came into being. In
every part of the country were communities where
land and labor were already together, where it would
be necessary to move neither the mountain nor Maho-
met. Near every city were vacant lots, "slacker
lands, " as useless as the human loafer, to whom, per-
haps, Mahomet must be brought. Whether the land
to be cultivated was a back yard or a vacant lot, it was
a potential source of food supply, and the raising of food
on these areas would solve many problems besides that
of food production. Food raised by the householder
in his yard or a near-by lot, was "Food F. O. B. the
Kitchen Door. " There were no problems of transporta-
tion or distribution to be solved in such food production.

The creation of an army of soldiers of the soil pre-
sented much the same difficulties presented by the
creation of any other army. First of all there was the
matter of recruiting. This was a purely volunteer move-

A VETERAN WAR GARDENER

There were hundreds of men and women throughout the United States who had passed the

three-score-and-ten mark who tilled and cared for their own garden plots. This is Lewis Hunt,

of Pearl River, New York, eighty-one years of age, who on his half-acre back yard raised a large

supply of vegetables, while his daughter canned the surplus for winter use.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 11

ment and all recruits must come through voluntary
enlistment. Then it was necessary to point out the
importance of the work and to create enthusiasm for
gardening. Next, it was necessary to train the recruits.
Intelligent instruction had to be furnished, for many of
these new soldiers of the soil had never before handled
a hoe or a garden fork. As the campaign progressed
it was found that the best results could be obtained by
organizing communities. Hence it became necessary to
outline methods for community organization. So unex-
pectedly great was the response to the campaign that it
proved essential to turn attention to the matter of food
conservation, to the preservation of surplus products
which the garden campaign had brought into being. The
function of the Commission, therefore, was to awaken
interest in both food production and food conservation
and to provide instruction along each line of endeavor.

CHAPTER II
THE STORY OF THE WAR GARDEN

How AMERICAN GARDENERS SOWED THE SEEDS OF VICTORY

WHILE the organizers of the War Garden Com-
mission were optimistic and looked forward'
confidently to the accomplishment of large
results, they little dreamed that the war-garden move-
ment would grow so rapidly. The war-garden idea
struck a patriotic chord. The American people answered
the call to help win the war by producing food in their
back yards with the same unanimity and enthusiasm
they had shown in responding to each other appeal
the country had made for service. One reason for
the prompt and eager response to the National War
Garden Commission's appeal to "Sow the Seeds of
Victory, " was that immediately after the United States
entered the war everybody was patriotically desirous
of rendering help in some form. Millions of people
realized that they would never be able to take part as
actual soldiers in the great task of overthrowing Prus-
sian militarism. Because of this they wanted to take
an active part in some effort which would show tangible
results in the struggle for right and justice.

War garden?ng offered the opportunity. Although
small home plots might not produce large amounts of
food, such gardens made possible the saving of some
of the wheat and meat and other foods which were

WAR GARDENS
OVER THE TOP

The Seeds of Victory
Insure the Fruits o/Peao

M««tt^ .y~«.«.<H-"~~ • tirvv*?*'

FOR FREE BOOKS WRITE TO NATIONAL WAR GARDEN COMMISSION

WASHINGTON. D.C.

Charles LathropPack, President Percival S. Ridsdale, Secretary

A POSTER SPREADING THE IDEA OF MILITANT WAR GARDENS

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 13

needed by our army and which were practically the
only kinds of food that could be shipped to our allies.
Every pound of beef that could be saved through the
growing of food at home, it was realized, would bring
victory just so much nearer; and in fact, without food
conservation, there was positive danger that the Cen<-
tral Powers would be able to have their way.

The food shortage faced by Great Britain, France,
and Italy during the winter of 1917-18, the seriousness
of which was not realized by the people of this country
until long after the danger was passed, showed the
wisdom which led to the saving of every particle of
food. The ability of the United States to respond so
magnificently to the appeal of the late Lord Rhondda,
then Food Controller of Great Britain, for 75,000,000
additional bushels of wheat early in 1918, was made
possible in part by substituting in the dietary, war-
garden products for the customary commercial supplies.

Once embarked upon participation in the war it be-
came evident that this nation would need to exert every
ounce of her power in the prosecution of the conflict.
In various localities anti-loaf ing laws were speedily
enacted to put every man to work. Since food was
even more necessary than man-power, it was of still
greater importance to put to use every particle of
"slacker land" — idle soil so located that it could be
worked. In our cities and towns, where the man-
power was available to cultivate these areas, were
thousands upon thousands of acres of idle real estate.

Few people realized the enormous aggregate acre-

14 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

age thus standing useless. There was probably no
town in the United States that did not have within its
boundaries at least fifty acres of idle soil. In the larger
communities where garden space was needed most, the
aggregate area of vacant lots was astonishing. A survey
made in Minneapolis, shortly before the war began,
showed more than 5,000 acres in vacant lots. In 1917
a survey disclosed 186,000 vacant lots in greater New
York. ^ Altogether there were hundreds of thousands
of idle acres in or near our towns and cities — the only
places where labor was available for working them; and
much of this land was suitable for gardening. It was of
the utmost importance, therefore, to place these areas
under cultivation.

In Great Britain steps had been taken very early in
the war to utilize similar open spaces for the production
of food. Parliament passed a law providing that any
untaxed land which was not being used for the produc-
tion of food might be taken over by the authorities and
parceled out to those who were able and willing to
rlise food. Millions of "Allotments," as they were
called, were asked for, and the production of vegetables
increased incredibly. Thus the British were able in
1918 to produce all the potatoes they needed, and even
to send a slight surplus to France. America possessed
vast areas, in the aggregate, of these idle lands; but
the importance of utilizing them for food production
had not been generally realized, until pointed out by
the Commission. .', :

" Put the slacker land to work " became a slogan of the

WarGardensVictorious

Every War Garden a PeacePlant-

— Charles Lathrop Pack.President.

NATIONALWAR GARDEN COMMISSION

WASHINGTON, D.C.
A POSTER FOR 1919, SYMBOLIC OF VICTORY

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 15

National War Garden Commission; and in response to
its energetic campaign toward this end, the people in
1917 put to work more than 3,000,000 pieces of such
uncultivated territory. In 1918 they ferreted out addi-
tional vast areas. The total number of war gardens for
this latter season is conservatively estimated, after a
careful survey, at 5,285,000.

With war's destruction occurring to an undreamed
of and terrifying extent, involving the destruction of
all kinds of material wealth as well as food, it soon be-
came apparent that food shortage was only one of many
shortages the world was facing. Conservation of
everything became a crying need. The war garden
offered an opportunity for conservation along many
lines. First came the conservation of food itself. The
daily ration of a soldier in our army consists of about
four and a quarter pounds of food. A million soldiers
would require at least 4,250,000 pounds of food a day.
At this rate a year's supply of food for a million men
would weigh 1,551,250,000 pounds — and we were plan-
ning to raise an army of four or five million men. To
take from the ordinary channels of trade the colossal
supplies necessary to feed such an army, with no extra
food to replace that thus subtracted, would mean that
householders would be forced to pay ruinously high
prices for the food that remained. War gardening
offered an opportunity to offset, in part, this tremen-
dous drain on our commercial supplies, to eke out those
supplies and make them go farther — which is really
conservation in its truest sense.

16 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

War gardening promised to make many other things
go farther. There was the matter of labor. There was
only so much labor in existence. As the primary
requisite of war, food would have the first call on labor,
although other things besides food were needed. Cannon
and shells and rifles and cartridges and uniforms and
innumerable other articles were demanded in incom-
prehensible quantities. After taking four or five mil-
lion men away from productive industry, obviously we
should not have sufficient man-power left to create all
that was needed of these various supplies. War gar-
dening, by adding to the food supply, released for work
on these lines men who otherwise would have been nec-
essary on the farms. In short, war gardening con-
served labor by making labor go farther.

The conservation, however, did not end with lessening
the number of men needed on the farms. Commercial
foods must pass through many hands before reach-
ing the consumer. They must go through the hands
of the farmer, the railroader, the wholesaler, the retailer,
the city deliveryman. For instance, a cabbage bought
in the market is handled by almost all the men enumer-
ated. A cabbage grown in the back yard is "Food F.
O. B. the Kitchen Door." No one needs to handle it
except the person who produces it for he or she is also
the one who eats it. Suppose that the average back-
yard garden produces only a hundred pounds of food,
which is a ridiculously small estimate, as a single
bushel of potatoes weighs sixty pounds. Based on
this the 5,285,000 war gardens of 1918 yielded at least

What ate YOU doing?

THE KAISER niurnnn

i CANNED

"Write for Free Book to

NATIONAL WAR GARDEN COMMISSION

WASHINGTON , D . C .

A POSTER WHICH WAS USED FIRST IN 1918 AND WHICH, AMENDED
—FOLLOWING GERMANY'S DEFEAT— WAS ALSO FORCEFUL IN 1919

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 17

528,285,000 pounds of food. Actually, as we shall see
later, the yield was many times as great. Yet the hand-
ling of that vast weight of provender called for hardly
a single public carrier of goods. The army of men
which otherwise would have been needed to transmit
this food from producer to consumer was thus released
for other essential labor. It probably would not be
possible to figure just how much was accomplished in
this manner by the war gardeners of the United States;
but it is safe to say that the men thus released for
other work numbered many thousands.

While this conservation of labor was being accom-
plished there was a concurrent saving in still another
way, through the release of thousands of freight-cars,
motor-trucks, and wagons, for purposes other than the
hauling of food. This saving, too, was most vital. At
a time when every freight-car in the country was ur-
gently needed for the hauling of raw materials to be
used in the manufacture of munitions of war, for the
transportation to the seacoast of finished products, and
for hauling lumber and supplies to cantonments and
army camps, it was essential that not one foot of freight
space should be wasted. War gardening released
thousands of cars for these essential needs. This saving,
it must be remembered, involved also the conservation
of coal and steam-power required in hauling, and pre-
vented, as well, a great amount of wear and tear on
railroad tracks and equipment.

To secure all these ends a campaign of education
was necessary. This campaign had to be extensive in

1 8 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

range and intensive in method. As an educator of the
masses there is no power equal to the public press; and
from the start, the Commission, had the cordial cooper-
ation of the newspapers and periodicals of the en tire coun-
try. Inspiration and detailed instruction were furnished
through the columns of the daily newspapers. Articles
and feature stories which dealt with various phases of
war gardening and sought to stimulate the movement
to the utmost were also prepared and sent broadcast.

These appeals soon bore fruit. Requests for instruc-
tion in gardening and in the organization of community
gardening movements poured in from all sides. To
the requests the Commission responded with carefully
prepared pamphlets which gave the information de-
sired. In addition, representatives of the Commission
visited innumerable cities and towns to confer with the
local chambers of commerce or other organizations
which were directing gardening campaigns. As a re-
sult of this propaganda, war gardens sprang up as
though by magic. Gardening came to be the thing.

In order that all this enthusiasm might be trans-
muted into substantial accomplishment, it was neces-
sary that the army of would-be gardeners should have
instruction, for many of them had never before handled
a hoe or wielded a fork. Daily garden lessons were
prepared therefore for the daily press. These lessons
were short and simple, shorn of useless technicalities,
but carefully prepared by experts. They were lack-
ing in nothing essential. They gave the fundamentals of
good garden practice, which would enable even a be-

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 19

ginner to make a success of his endeavor. In addition
a book was printed explaining how to plant and care
for the different vegetables. A copy of this book was
free to any one upon request and several million copies
have been given away in response to requests. Many
copies were also distributed through the agency of libra-
ries, chambers of commerce, trade bodies, women's
clubs, banks, manufacturing concerns and the like.
Thousands of letters of appreciation prove how help-
ful were these books.

To encourage the conservation of garden products
canning and drying manuals were prepared and dis-
tributed through the same channels which had handled
the garden books, and daily lessons on canning and dry-
ing were sent to the newspapers for publication. The
results were most gratifying. Editors everywhere
devoted generous space to the articles sent them, in-
cluding news stories, technical matter on canning and
drying, and ample illustrations. Cartoonists, paragraph-
ers, and writers of comics also made gardening their
theme; and some of their productions the Commission
scattered broadcast, to keep alive the interest in home
food production and preservation.

Theprosepoem,sopopularthese days, was used to catch
the eye and arouse the interest of "city farmers. " Here
is. one, entitled "Let's Dig and Dig and We'll be Big:"

When I go down the village street in my perambu-
lations, most every other chap I meet is asking for
donations. They're seeking funds for Red Cross work,
for hospitals and motors; they're holding up with con-

20 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

stant jerk, all wives and kids and voters. I'm helping
out from day to day, with no delays or pauses, tobacco
funds, Y. M. C. A. and other worthy causes. I'm told
that war bonds I must buy, in twos and fours and
dozens, enough to make a full supply for all my aunts
and cousins. For war stamps, too, those signs of thrift,
I dig into my pocket, to give my Uncle Sam a lift in
cleaning up his docket. I'm taxed for building wooden
ships with good, old-fashioned rigging, and in my little
daily trips I'm constantly kept digging. I dig to pay
tobacco tax, and tax for railway travel. I'm always
chipping from my stacks; they keep me scratching
gravel. But I've no kick for those who come with all
their pleas beguiling. It never makes me sad nor glum.
They always find me smiling. I know that I'm too old
to fight; I can't be caught renigging. So I regard it
just and right that I should keep on digging. And then
besides, it's proved to me that every man is bigger if
he will teach himself to be a willing war-time digger.
It's not enough for us to sing about the joy of giving.
We've got to dig for everything we need to keep on
living. We've got to dig in our back yards for carrots,
beans, and 'taters; we've got to dig both long and hard
as garden cultivators. So take your trusty hoe and
spade and start your spring-time sowing. Just dig and
get a garden made and set the foodstuff growing.

In order to catch the attention of the man in the
street, several striking posters were prepared by the
Commission and placed in conspicuous places in com-
munities in every part of the land. On bulletin-boards,
in railway stations, libraries, stores, at factory entrances,
and even in clubs, banks and commercial houses, these
striking posters met the eye. They were also repro-

22 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

of the rapid growth of the war-garden movement was
the spread of the idea to foreign countries. Advice
was gladly given to foreign inquirers, the Commission
furnishing detailed information concerning the methods
which had resulted in such general enthusiasm for war
gardening in the United States. In response to numer-
ous requests which came to the Commission from all
parts of the world, large quantities of printed matter,
including garden and canning books, posters, and
pamphlets, were sent broadcast throughout the world.

" Kia Ora, " the Maori way of saying, " Salutations to
you all, " was the greeting which came to the Commis-
sion from far-off New Zealand, in a letter of thanks
from F. Carr Rollett, of the Auckland Herald, for data and
material that had been sent. From Buenos Aires, Argen-
tina, on the opposite side of the globe, C. D. Middle-
brook, of the Sociedad Anonima La Blanca, wrote a
hearty letter of appreciation for posters and other lit-
erature sent, saying that the posters were prominently
displayed on the occasion of the entertainment of two
hundred American bluejackets who visited this South
American capital. "Down here we appreciate this class
of propaganda," said Mr. Middlebrook, "and we are
in a position to exhibit the posters where they can
readily be seen by the public. Practically every Ameri-
can home and sympathizer displays them. We will do
our part in making this propaganda public."

From South and Central American countries, from
Cuba, India, China, Japan, the Philippines, Alaska,
Hawaii, South Africa, and from a number of European

NO WONDER SHE SMILES
Thousands of men and women who had never before the war raised

YITfj-r-fi ii-tr-4- «r. .**..A1* 1 3 * » JT • T~v . t -r-k • - - _. &1OCU

Courtesy Minneapolis Journal.

a cabbage or a

— ,„ „„„ ..wuu .. ,. iiv^ nctvj. iiv-vti uciuic i,iie war raisea a caDua&re or a ootc
were just as much p eased as is Miss Dorothy Primm, of Minneapolis, over the results of th
labor. 1 hey found that even amateurs could succeed.

)tato
icir

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 23

nations came requests for information and instruction
on war gardening: Even Lord Rhondda, as British
Food Controller, cabled a request for 5,000 copies of
the Commission's book on gardening.

No new movement could have spread with such ra-
pidity and been rewarded with such results as were
achieved, had it not been for the loyal and whole-hearted
manner in which state, county and town committees
and officials of all sorts, as well as numerous individuals,
cooperated with and supplemented the work of the
Commission. With this help the results surpassed the
most sanguine anticipations of those who initiated the
war-garden movement. The first season saw the plant-
ing in the United States, according to the Commission's
estimates based on reports from all parts of the country,
of approximately 3,500,000 home food producing lots.
The reports gathered in 1918 showed the number had
increased to 5,285,000 war gardens.

Furthermore, there was more intensive cultivation
and a greater proportion of large-yielding gardens in
1918 than during the preceding year. The food value
of the 1917 products was estimated at something like
$350,000,000. In the second year the value reached
an estimated total of $525,000,000.

It is estimated, likewise, that as a result of the garden
and canning campaigns, there were put up and stored
away on pantry shelves in 1917 more than 500,000,000
quarts of canned vegetables and fruits; while in 1918
the number of such jars is believed to have been fully
1,450,000,000.

Assuredly tall oaks from little acorns grow.

CHAPTER III
HOW WAR GARDENS HELPED

EVERY GARDENER BECAME A SOLDIER OF THE SOIL

WHAT the "three R's" mean to preparation for
a life of peace, the three M's become in the
conduct of war. These three M's stand for
men, money and munitions. In its broadest sense, the
term munitions includes everything needed by an army,
and of all an army's needs the basic and most im-
portant is food.

The quantities of food required by our army are
huge. Dietitians estimate that the average man needs,
daily, food that will furnish 3,500 calories. The United
States army ration allows 4,700 calories to each man,
and the unusual exertions demanded of our soldiers make
it quite necessary that they have this generous allow-
ance of food. With less they might lack that abundant
supply of muscular and nervous energy upon which their
very lives depend.

Stated in terms of avoirdupois, the United States
army ration is slightly in excess of four and a quarter
pounds of food a man per diem. Four pounds of food
does not seem like a great quantity. It allows each
soldier twenty ounces of fresh beef a day, or its equiv-
alent in fresh mutton, bacon, fish, turkey or other
meat; eighteen ounces of flour or bread; twenty ounces
of potatoes with proportionate amounts of other vege-

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 25

tables; 3.2 ounces of sugar; 2.4 ounces of beans or
1.6 ounces of hominy or rice; and prunes, apples,
peaches, jam, milk, coffee, butter, and so forth, in
smaller quantities.

When these amounts are multiplied by a million, the
total bulks as huge as the Rockies. It means 4,250,000
pounds of food daily, for seven days a week, and for
fifty-two weeks each year. To feed an army of 1,000,000
men for one month, according to the quartermaster's
department of the United States army, there are re-
quired 973,000 pounds of butter, 1,000,000 cans of
corned beef, 1,000,000 cans of corned-beef hash,
2,000,000 cans of beef, 2,400,000 pounds of coffee,
3,000,000 pounds of sugar, 6,000,000 pounds of bacon,
23,000,000 pounds of frozen beef, 37,500,000 pounds
of flour, and other articles in proportion.

As the United States raised an army of 4,000,000
men, the quantity of food that had to be provided was
four times as great as the amounts named or 3,892,000
pounds of butter, 4,000,000 cans of corned beef, 4,000,-
ooo cans of corned-beef hash, 8,000,000 cans of beef,
9,600,000 pounds of coffee, 12,000,000 pounds of sugar,
24,000,000 pounds of bacon, 92,000,000 pounds of
frozen beef, and 150,000,000 pounds of flour, not to
mention the "and so forths." This huge total sufficed
to feed our completed army for one month only.

A year's supply for this completed army required,
in round numbers, 46,704,000 pounds of butter, 48,000,-
ooo cans of corned beef, 48,000,000 cans of corned-
beef hash, 96,000,000 cans of beef, 115,200,000 pounds

26 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

of coffee, 144,000,000 pounds of sugar, 288,000,000
pounds of bacon, 1,104,000,000 pounds of frozen beef,
and 1,800,000,000 pounds of flour.

So huge are these figures that to the average person
they are meaningless, but that these army demands
constituted a terrific drain on our commercial food
supplies was evident to everybody. Practically all of
this food was food diverted from its accustomed chan-
nels. Not an ounce of it went to the feeding of the
civilian population which formerly had practically all
of it. At the same time, if our allies were to be saved
from utter collapse through hunger, and our own
country saved from the plight of having to carry on
the war single-handed and alone, it was essential that
greater quantities of food be sent to Europe than Amer-
ica had ever before exported. After the war ended, and
it became necessary, in some measure, to provide for
the population of the enemy countries, still larger de-
mands for food for export were to be expected. The
very causes that had produced these conditions had,
as we have seen, so stripped the farms of men that a
food production commensurate with the needs of the
situation was an impossibility.

"Those who cultivated the soil could hardly do
more than they were doing," said Luther Burbank, a
member of the National War Garden Commission, in
speaking of the matter. "It was becoming evident
that food, which before had been taken as a matter of
course, was in reality the foundation of all life, all know-
ledge, all progress. What could be done? It became

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 27

necessary to conserve carefully what already had been
produced, and then produce more. Agriculture and
horticulture had not generally been taught in the schools ;
the old hit-or-miss plan of farming was all too common;
the home garden was neglected and the school garden
a novelty. To the call both to conservation and to
increased production, the American people have re-
sponded nobly. How quickly they have changed
their attitude, how splendidly they have made good
by adapting themselves to the new conditions! When
the war garden movement was started, the problem of
food production was on the way to be solved."

Here, then, was the all-impelling, the all-important
reason back of the home food production movement.
This was the outstanding motive above all others which
made the war garden a thing not only to be desired
but actually to be demanded. Our allies and the neu-
trals, as far as possible, as well as our own people and
our army, must be fed: — this was the cry from the
tower-top, this the call of hungry peoples which had
to be answered. Our task was Herculean!

There was one great difficulty in the road to accom-
plishment: the problem of common psychology. It is
recorded that when God called Moses to lead his fellows
forth from Egypt, Moses replied: "Who am I, that
I should go unto Pharoah, and that I should bring
forth the children of Israel out of Egypt?" Even so
did the average American regard the appeal made to
him to raise food and save the world from starvation.
The difficulty was that the average American, like the

28 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

deliverer of Israel, lacked imagination. He could not
visualize the collective contributions of millions of back-t
yard and vacant-lot gardens. He was like the little girl,
who, when asked to save a slice of bread to help feed
the army, replied: "Papa, I don't see any reason why I
should save a slice of bread. It can't feed an army."
Her father took her down to the harbor in New York
City and showed her a great transport at the wharf,
waiting for food to carry to Europe. He then told her
that if every little schoolgirl in the United States saved
a slice of bread a day, their combined savings would
fill eight large transports every week. Her blue eyes
opened wide as the great truth flashed upon her, and
after that she didn't want to eat anything at all.

In his nursery days, the average American had
learned that

Little drops of water, little grains of sand,
Make the mighty ocean and the pleasant land.

Unfortunately, however, that infantile lesson had
been put away with other childish things when he be-
came a man. The task the National War Garden Com-
mission set itself was to make the average American
feel the full truth, the actual force, of that childhood
jingle. The truth — the truth that was to set us free —
was striking enough. Among the garden records of the
National War Garden Commission is the story of a cer-
tain garden in Pennsylvania, which was very much like
other American back-yard gardens in many respects.

IN AN ITALIAN GARDEN

In New Haven, Connecticut, the side lawn of a handsome home was converted into a food
plot. In addition to growing a lot of vegetables, so delighted was the owner that she said
never again would her family be without the pleasure which this experience had given them.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 29

In size it was 40x40 feet. The gardener kept a careful
record during one entire year of the quantities of food
produced in that garden. His figures are as follows:

Beets — 25 bunches Cucumbers — 100

Carrots — 2 pecks Celery — 450 stalks

Radishes — 15 bunches Rhubarb — 10 bunches

Rutabagas— -64 Scallions — 12 bunches

Early peas — 32 quarts (pods) Parsley — used freely

Potatoes — 7 pecks Dried beans for winter use — 20 quarts

Cabbage — 20 heads Peaches, from two trees in corner of
Cauliflower — 14 heads garden — 7 baskets

Tomatoes — 6 baskets Lettuce — equivalent of 60 heads

Bunch beans — 2>£ pecks Horseradish — all desired

Telephone peas — 40 quarts (pods) Onion sets — 3 quarts

Peppers — 9 dozen Onions dried — ^ bushel
Pole beans — 108 quarts

If this production, such as could be had from any
ordinary back-yard garden with good soil, were reduced
to pounds and ounces, it would be found that this one
yard had yielded considerably more than half a ton of
foodstuffs. It is reckoned that there are more than
20,000,000 families in the United States. If every
family could have a garden, and each garden could
yield half a ton of food, the total annual produc-
tion would aggregate 10,000,000 tons, or almost twice
as much in weight as we normally shipped to Europe
in a year in pre-war days. Of course it was not pos-
sible for each of our 20,000,000 families to have a gar-
den, but with 45 per cent, of our people living in the
country or in small towns, and with such vast areas
of vacant lots in the larger cities, it would be entirely
possible to have 10,000,000 war gardens. These gar-
dens, could they produce at the rate of this Pennsyl-
vania garden, would yearly supply in weight as much
food as before the war we annually shipped to Europe.

30 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

Such were the possibilities of garden production that
stimulated the National War Garden Commission to
maximum effort.

Of course, garden food does not possess, pound for
pound, anything like the food value of the concentrated
foods sent to our allies and to our armies, but garden
food is provender, and it is wholesome food. Peas and
beans are great meat-conservers ; potatoes, both sweet
and white, important cereal-savers; and a little larger
bulk of many garden products, such as potatoes, will
take the place of a smaller quantity of meat or other
concentrated foods. To figure out the exact food val-
ues of the total products that might be raised in our
gardens is of course both impossible and unnecessary.
The point is that millions of pounds of food could be
produced right in our own yards and in neighboring
vacant lots and that by eating these foods we should so
lessen the demand on our commercial supplies that
these would be sufficient to meet the heavy demands
upon them.

To reach the entire population of the United States,
to convince one hundred million people of the necessity
of gardening, and to convince them to the point of
action, was such a colossal task that the Commission
hardly dared to hope for the creation of more than one
million war gardens during the first year of its activ-
ities. Yet the estimated total was in excess of 3,000,000;
and in 1918 a very careful canvass set the number of
such gardens at 5,285,000.

What these war gardens actually accomplished to-

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 31

ward feeding the army was shown by a careful estimate
as to the amount of food which they added to the
nation's larder. This was reckoned in 1918 as having
a value of $525,000,000. Taking into consideration
equivalent food values, it was figured on a conserva-
tive basis that our 1918 war gardens grew food equal
in body-building power to the meat ration required by
an army of 1,000,000 men for 302 days; the bread
ration for 248 days; or the entire ration for 142 days.
This wonderful saving of commercial supplies made the
war-garden movement eminently worth while from
this standpoint alone.

Munitions represent only one of the three M's.
Money is another. Money makes the army as well as
the mare go. The value produced by home gardeners
went far to meet the increasing demands for money due
to the war. To realize the wonderful financial possi-
bilities of war gardening is almost as difficult as to
grasp the possibilities of food production. The prod-
ucts of the little Pennsylvania garden already referred
to were worth, according to the records of the gardener,
$63.50. That valuation was made at pre-war prices.
The same products, in 1918, would have been worth
probably half as much again, or close to $100.00. Even
if its products were worth only $50.00 that sum would
have enabled the gardener to buy, with the money
saved by gardening, a Liberty Bond.

Suppose all our war gardens averaged as well, what
would be the result? The 5,285,000 gardens of 1918
would have yielded $264,250,000. Actually, the re*-

32 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

suits were almost do'uble that figure, the estimated
value of our war-garden crops for 1918 having been
$525,000,000! A half billion dollars! Enough to cover
the expenses of the Red Cross, the Y. M. C. A., and all
other similar war-work agencies for a long time; or to
build 500 great ships; or to pay for one-twelfth of the
fourth Liberty Loan issue!

In thousands of cases his war garden meant to its
owner the difference between ability and inability to
subscribe to a war loan. There were more than 21,000,-
ooo subscribers to the fourth Liberty Loan. The esti-
mate of war-garden production means that the money
saved through war gardening enabled at least one-
fourth of these subscribers to become holders of their
country's war-purpose bonds.

Of the three M's there yet remains the third — men.
Just as money saved through gardening can be used
for the purchase of bonds instead of food, so labor saved
in one field can be shifted to another. Specifically, men
released from food handling were free for service else-
where. And the name of the men so released through
war gardening is legion. The products of the little
Pennsylvania garden already discussed, weighed in
excess of half a ton. Had these products not been
raised at home, it would have been necessary to bring
their equivalent to the gardener's home. He has a
family of three. Families of three do not buy food in
half-ton lots — seldom even in one-hundred-pound lots.
To put an equivalent amount of food in his home, there-
fore, would have required many trips on the part of a

MEDAL IN COMMEMORATION OF THE WAR GARDEN
In recognition of the war time service of the War Garden a commemora-
tive medal was struck by the National War Garden Commission for
presentation to the rulers of the United States, England, France, Belgium
and Italy. The illustration at the top of this page shows the obverse
of this medal. The lower picture is a reproduction of the reverse.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 33

deliveryman, certainly not less than twenty-five. If
every war gardener who made enough out of his garden
to buy a Liberty Bond also saved his deliveryman
twenty-five trips, the total saving of labor was enor-
mous. The number of persons employed, before the
war, solely to wait on other persons, was beyond belief.
Soon after the United States entered the war, merchants
began to face a readjustment of their business. It was
estimated that in New York City alone simplification of
delivery and clerk systems would release 100,000 men
for service in the army. In the aggregate, war gardening
aided to an incredible extent in this readjustment.

Nor are these all the benefits conferred by war gar-
dening. Nothing is more essential to success in war
than the creation and maintenance of an ardent patriotic
spirit. War gardening fostered this spirit by enabling
so many individuals not actually in the army to do some-
thing tangible in the struggle. Millions of patriots joined
the army of the soil because of their deep love for their
country, and their desire to help in the hour of need.

Many of the slogans sent ringing throughout the
country by the Commission breathed the spirit of
America and of democracy. That spirit spoke from the
Commission's posters and other matter. War garden-
ers were called on by the beautiful figure of Liberty to
"Sow the Seeds of Victory." Another slogan, a clever
paraphrase on the title of a famous song, told them to
" Keep the Home Soil Turning. " West Virginia started
the message: "Food Must Follow the Flag," which
became a household word throughout the United

34 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

States. The Marion (Indiana) War Garden Associa-
tion placed it squarely up to the home food producers
in this fashion: "Earn the Right to Stay at Home —
Plant a Garden. " The honored title of "Soldier of
the Soil" gave the home tiller the feeling that he, too,
was performing a service for his country although he
was not wearing the uniform; and when he was informed
that "Every Garden is a Munition Plant" he knew
that he was helping the boys over there to fight their
battles, for "The Seeds of Victory Insure the Fruits of
Peace." The patriotic spirit is contagious and the war
gardener helped mightily to spread it.

Of especial value to the nation in its days of need was
the habit of thrift engendered and built up into a com-
mon trait by home gardening. Before the war, it is esti-
mated, there were only 300,000 bond-buyers in the
United States. More than 21,000,000 people subscribed
to the fourth Liberty Loan. The significance of that
fact is splendidly summed up in a single sentence by
Fred H. Goff, president of the Cleveland Trust Com-
pany and a member of the National War Garden Com-
mission. "A nation that saves," says he, "is a nation
saved. " Truly, war gardening is as full of hidden bless-
ings as the widow's cruse was of oil.

WE HAVE A

War G arden

National War Garden
Commission

WASHINGTON, D. C.

THE WAR GARDENER'S BOAST

To war gardeners throughout the United States the National War Garden Commission furnished

window hangers, printed in green to symbolize growing vegetation. These were proudly

displayed in the front windows of several million homes.

CHAPTER IV
TYPES OF WAR GARDENS

How DIFFERENT PEOPLE PLANNED TO PLANT AND WIN THE WAR

ON plaster and ash-filled ground only a few feet
above the rumbling subway in New York City
was a war garden. From this little vegetable
plot in Bryant Park, where land is valued at some-
thing like $20,000 a square foot, to the tiny garden
along the railroad right of way near the tops of the
White Mountains, is a far, far cry. Yet both spots had
their war gardens. The one in Bryant Park was a
demonstration garden, started solely for educational
purposes. Here representatives of the National War
Garden Commission preached the gospel of gardening
and freely gave helpful advice and garden primers to
passing inquirers. On the other hand the tiny garden
on the cloud-capped slope of the White Mountains was
wholly utilitarian. A patriotic hand had planted it,
and loving fingers tended it, in the hope that it would
bring forth, perhaps, a few dollars' worth of food; in
the belief that its product would lessen, though ever
so little, the pressure on our commercial food supplies,
from which alone our allies could draw sustenance.

The same spirit of helpfulness, of readiness to "do
one's bit" animated countless other Americans. So
the war garden was found in tiny clearings beside the

36 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

logging camps of Louisiana, in irrigated plots among
the arid sands of New Mexico, in the rugged iron lands
of Minnesota, and on the open, fertile stretches of

the Middle West. Even
the lighthouse-keeper at
Santa Cruz, California,
planted a little garden
under the shadow of his
protecting shaft. From
coast to coast, and from
lake to gulf, little areas
that had been barren as
the desert suddenly blos-

Victory gardens produce dollars somed like the TOSC. Be-

hind each of these innumerable gardens was a heart
animated by the desire to serve God and country.

When the National
War Garden Commission
sent forth the slogan
"Plan to Plant and Win
the War," the majority
of gardens started in re-
sponse were of the indi-
vidual type. Like stars
in a mighty flag, they dot-
ted the rolling landscape
from ocean to ocean.
There were few town and village homes that did not have
some space available for war gardening. Even in densely
populated cities, a goodly proportion of the inhabi-

There is no distinctive type of victory
gardener

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

tants each had at command at least a few square feet
that could be cultivated. And urban dwellers by the
hundred thousands found vacant lots near their homes
which could be utilized for food production. This great
host of individuals, each working like his fellows for a
common purpose, carried
on what, in the aggre-
gate, was a vast farming
operation.

In no previous war did
women play so great a
part as they did in the
world war. Not only did
hosts of them make mu-
nitions in factories, but

Other hosts joined the Draw on your back-yard type of bank

men in the production of that other sort of munitions —
the kind that grows in gardens. With the women who
served as nurses, ambulance drivers, canteen helpers,
and munition makers, should also be ranked the women
gardeners. In thousands of instances- women gardeners
cultivated entirely, even to the extent of doing the dig-
ging, the home food plot, while in thousands of other
instances they shared with the men the task of caring
for the war gardens.

Thousands of letters have come to the National War
Garden Commission from women gardeners. In order
that the fine service rendered by such women may not
be forgotten, some of these communications are in-
cluded in this record. A letter from Mrs. T. J. Ulery,

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

of Seattle, Washington, whose husband wore his
country's uniform, well shows the spirit that animated
these women gardeners:

"Thanks for the war vegetable gardening booklet
you sent me in the spring," she says. "My husband is
in the navy and I have two small babies, but that did

not keep me from raising
a garden. We have a
plot fifty by two hundred
feet, and every inch is in
something. I wish you
could see it. I weigh
ninety-eight pounds but I
am going to do my bit.
Now I wish you would
send me your home can-

This type of green goods will cure the blues ning and drying book."

From Mrs.G.P.Dutcher, of Arlington, Massachusetts,
came this other typical communication : " I was seventy-
eight years old on March thirty-first. I expect to raise
what beans I need for a family of three for the next
year. I did it last year and did all my own planting."

We see the significance and worth of this woman's
service when we realize that a day's rations for one
million United States soldiers includes 75,000 pounds
of beans, and that we raised an army of approximately
four million men! This enormous demand for beans
had to be met from commercial supplies that could
be increased, because of labor shortage, only slightly
above the pre-war production. So we had the army

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

ffat

An office type of victory garden

bidding against the civilian population, with the result-
ant tremendous increase in price. Assuredly this old lady
was doing her share toward remedying the situation.
And that is exactly what
was done by the cultiva-
tor of every war garden.
Few of the women gar-
deners had reached their
allotted three score years
and ten. Most of our
women gardeners were
younger, and among these
younger women soldiers
of the soil none performed
a more interesting or val-
uable service than the eight school teachers and office
workers who ventured, like the pioneers of old, into a new

country, blazing the way
for those who should come
after them. Their chosen
field of garden effort was
the raising of vegetables
for a summer hotel.

Up at the Dixville
Notch, in the White
Mountains in northern
New Hampshire, is a mag-

Suit your type of garden to your job nificent Summer hotel,

The Balsams. It was customary to ship in from a
considerable distance the bulk of its vegetable supply.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

Where there's a will there's a victory
garden type

Last summer the eight young women referred to culti-
vated a three-acre garden at Dixville Notch, on the
property of the hotel corporation. They lived in one

of the company's attrac-
tive little houses which
looks out over a great ex-
panse of country. From
Brooklyn, New York,
Lakewood, New Jersey,
Rockland, Maine, and
Keene, New Hampshire,
came these young women
farmers. They were farm-
ers in more than name;
for in addition to culti-
vating their large vegetable garden, they found time to
assist the neighboring men farmers in making hay, culti-
vating potatoes, and per-
forming other farm labor.
The desire to serve, not
the wish to have a good
time, led these young
women to engage in this
work; and so successfully
did they perform their
tasks that the hotel man-
agement promptly ar-
ranged tO Continue and Put your heart into your own

expand the work in future years. Thus, in addition to
upbuilding themselves physically in the most gratify-

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

ing way, these young women opened the way for
others of their sex to perform service at once essential
and useful. How useful may be judged when we rea-
lize that but for their work it would have been neces-
sary to haul hundreds of bushels of garden-stuff long
distances over the steep mountain grades. The car-
space and fuel thus saved
were applied to the haul-
ing of shells and cannon
and other supplies that
our soldiers so much
needed. If "they also
serve who only stand and
wait," how much greater
is the service of those
who labor while they wait.

Since the labor of these Eveiy ^Pe can have smooth sailins
young women marks a new phase of food production,
in this country, a phase that is certain to appeal more
and more to tired school teachers, clerks, and other in-
door workers, it may not be amiss to tell in detail of
the life of these girls at Dixville Notch.

Their home was in a cozy little cottage, from the
windows of which one could look off in any direction
on most beautiful mountain scenery. It was situated
only a few miles south of the Canadian border, in a
region whose towering mountains are pine-clad and
gemmed with clear, cool lakes and embroidered with
foaming mountain brooks. The girls received regular
monthly wages from the hotel, but provided their own

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

meals, with the privilege, however, of purchasing supplies
from the hotel at favorable rates. Two at a time they
kept house, while the other six looked after the gardens.
None of these girls had had any previous experience
worth mentioning in the cultivation of the soil. Yet
they made very rapid progress in the art of gardening.

Their success was un-
doubtedly due to the fact
that they stuck to a few
staple crops and did not
attempt too diversified
gardening. They raised
peas, lettuce, radishes,
carrots, beans, and other
common vegetables. Upon
beginning their work they

A type of victory garden to brag about received instructions f rom

the hotel farmer, Henry Bemis, who looks after some
of the larger tracts of land owned by the hotel manage-
ment, which are given over almost exclusively to the
raising of hay for the dairies. Such instruction was
not long necessary, however, as the young women
farmers speedily acquired considerable skill.

Even gardening and haying did not occupy all their
time. One rainy day, when no gardening could be done
they went to a neighboring farm where there were
several thousand bushels of potatoes which had begun
to sprout. The visitors started " sprouting" with a
will and at the end of the day had averaged twenty-
five bushels each. They were told that ten bushels had

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

always been regarded as a fair day's "sprout." They
continued at this task until the entire lot of potatoes
was finished. Then they assisted other farmers whose
potatoes were sprouting;
for labor had become as
scarce on New Hamp-
shire farms as it was on
farms everywhere else.

Thus these women not
only blazed a trail for
their sisters, but proved
what thousands of other
women are proving in in-
dustry that Woman not The community type of victory garden

only is not an inferior workman, but that her nervous
make-up enables her to work faster than man. These

^ women gardeners did their
•**1 share in the fight for free-
-^ ^ dom — not merely that poli-
tical equality forwhich men
and women struggled on
the fields of Europe, but
that greater freedom, hu-
man equality. Even to
that cause has the war gar-
den contributed materially.
If the work of these
young women proved anything, it was that in union
there is strength. The strength that comes from union
it was found advantageous to utilize in many another

The sun shines for all types of garden

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

war garden, by operating it on the community plan.
Instead of allowing each gardener to till his own land,
it was better, where possible, to have a large area prop-
erly plowed and har-
rowed and then allow the
gardener to care for his
individual plot. The ad-
vantages of such com-
munity action proved
great. The land was

y (flj[ uniformly and properly
'Kj-jy^Q3 £m3r prepared and at small

• expense. Community

ic crowded city has many types gardening made for both

better gardens and better communities, for the spirit of
emulation at once led each gardener to do his best, while
common toil for a com-
mon end made for better
understanding and better
acquaintanceship; and
sympathetic understand-
ing is the rock upon which
democracy is founded.

Much of the gardening
done by employes of facto-
ries and business houses
was of the community sort. The well-worked ^e involves no doubt
Unused tracts of land lying near mill or shop, and not
needed for business purposes, were divided among em-
ployes for gardening, after being properly plowed and

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 45

harrowed. Often it happened that the land available
would not accommodate all the men applying for plots,
and in such cases employers frequently leased additional
near-by lands and turned them over to their employes.
The mutual interests so engendered created a more
friendly feeling of cooperation not only among the men
themselves, but also between the management and the
employes. This was particularly true where, as hap-
pened in many cases, the heads of large concerns be-
came fellow-gardeners with their employes. Burns has
told us the secret of democracy in a single sentence:
"A man's a man for a' that!" When men get together
and work together for a common end, they learn the
fundamental lesson of democracy. Thus the commu-
nity war gardening which sprang up in so many parts
of the land accomplished more, far more, than the pro-
duction of so much provender, useful as that strictly
utilitarian end undoubtedly was. Unquestionably,
community gardening will continue. It will be the
peace-time descendant of the war garden.

CHAPTER V
UNCLE SAM'S FIRST WAR GARDEN

HOW THE BOYS AT CAMP DlX WENT OVER THE To?

WITH the mention of the word "war" there im-
mediately flashes across the mind a vision of
long lines of soldiers marching through streets
crowded with flag-waving civilians; or of those same
long lines drilling, wheeling, and maneuvering on the
camp parade-ground; or of stern-taced fighters with
bayonets fixed charging across a smoke-clouded field
toward the enemy's positions. It was most appropriate
and fitting, therefore, that the term "war garden"
should come to be associated with actual soldiers.

It was at Camp Dix, New Jersey, that the first sure-
enough war garden was planted. At that big army
cantonment there was begun the first big undertaking
in the United States whereby the American army
started to help feed itself.

Early in the spring of 1918 the National War Garden
Commission, cooperating with the conservation and
reclamation division of the Quartermaster-General's
office, effected the plans which promptly led to the plant-
ing of a four-hundred-acre war garden at Camp Dix,
that city of 48,000 or more soldiers where men were
being prepared for overseas duty. This was a demon-
stration garden which was not only the largest but also

the most picturesque the country had seen. It was not
46

>-v •> ; v;,v: •
4 ^•'A

I I

[E WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 47

only great in size, but in the consequences that were
to come from it. This important innovation in methods
of supplying the quartermaster's store with part of the
food needed, not only had the backing of the officers in
charge, but also received the hearty commendation of
the Secretary of War. It proved of value in many ways.

At practically all the army camps, there were con-
siderable amounts of land not required for actual mil-
itary purposes. These plots varied from a few hundred
to several thousand acres. There was, however, no
fund available under the War Department or army
appropriations which could be used for the purpose of
placing this land under cultivation and carrying on
the work.

At Camp Dix there were 400 acres inside the reser-
vation which could be immediately utilized for food
production. Colctoel J. S. Fair, assistant to the Acting
Quatermaster-General, and head of the conservation
and reclamation division, helped to work out and gave
his active support to the plan of planting a garden at
this place. When it was found that the land could be
used and that Lieutenant-Colonel Edmond Tompkins,
then Camp Quartermaster, had the men available, the
National War Garden Commission secured nine big
motor-trucks and rushed over from Philadelphia, thirty
miles distant, thirty plows and other garden tools,
seeds, fertilizer, and other needed material. The final
arrangements were completed on one day, and on the
following day the supplies were on hand.

The Commission's demonstration war garden at

48 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

Camp Dix was a success from the start. It furnished an
inspiration and gave impetus to the work all over the
United States; and soon similar plots growing "Food
F. O. B. the Mess Tent Door" were under way in a
number of other camps. Thousands of war gardeners
redoubled their efforts because of the knowledge that the
men in the American army were doing similar patriotic
work. "Over the Top with the Boys at Camp Dix!"
became a new slogan which aroused genuine enthusi-
asm and put new spirit into the back-yard and vacant-
lot tillage.

After the Commission had provided the means for
starting the project, Lieutenant-Colonel Tompkins
placed it in the hands of Captain E. V. Champlin, con-
servation and reclamation Offficer of the camp, and the
latter selected as farm officer Lieutenant John F. Bon-
ner, an energetic young officer who was a graduate of
an agricultural college and who had also enjoyed a
practical farming experience.

Major-General Hugh L. Scott, commanding officer
at Camp Dix, took a keen personal interest in the proj-
ect. He made several trips of inspection over the
gardens, accompanied on two of these occasions by
Mrs. Scott, to see how the work was progressing and
to encourage the young officers in charge. He expressed
his appreciation to Captain Champlin and to Lieutenant
Bonner, actively in charge of the farm enterprise,
and to their assistants, for the excellent results they
were obtaining. His interest caused the boys to work
with an added will.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 49

One hundred and forty acres were planted to pota-
toes, both early and late varieties; seventy acres to
beans; forty to corn; twelve to beets; twelve to onions;
eight to cucumbers; five to tomatoes; one to cabbage;
and other areas to a variety of vegetables. The land
on which the camp was located had been farms, on
which there were a number of orchards. These were
cared for and the fruit gathered. In addition, about
three hundred tons of hay were harvested. The garden
even included an acre of broom-corn, which the supply
officer in charge of purchasing brooms figured saved
many a dollar. The boys, however, maintained that
their reward from this particular corner of the garden
came from the help rendered in " sweeping on to Berlin."

Aside from the food produced, the Camp Dix war
garden was of benefit in other ways. It afforded healthful
outdoor work for convalescents and other men who
were not physically fit for active military training,
but who after a few weeks or months of this exercise
were able to go back into the fighting ranks. Colonel
F. B. Beauchamp, inspector of the southern command
of the British army, who had come to the United
States on a tour of inspection of the camps here, pointed
out what this form of work was accomplishing for many
men in the British army, and how thousands of them
were being so benefited by the regular living in the
camps and the life in the open that they were able to
return to service on the battle-field.

In addition to using convalescents and men not
physically capable of service overseas the camp garden

50 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

afforded opportunity for putting "conscientious ob-
jectors" and alien enemies to work at some useful non-
combatant form of labor. Among the first 150 men
assigned to the war-garden work at Camp Dix were a
number of Germans and Austrians, two Turks, and
representatives of other nationalities. Drafted men of
this sort, having declared themselves unwilling to take
up arms against their own countrymen, were almost
without exception happy and contented in their work
as food producers. In some cases alien prisoners were
transported to army camps to till the gardens. The
first lot was sent from Fort Oglethorpe, Georgia, to
Camp Devens, Massachusetts, for this purpose. At the
camp, under guard, they cultivated a war garden of
ninety acres. There were one hundred of these pris-
oners, most of whom had been taken from interned
German vessels.

As a result of the. immediate success of the Camp Dix
project, plans were made foij greatly extending this
form of war gardening in 1919. The work had proved
its worth as an adjunct to army life. A number of
military men who had not approved of the plan at its
inception were converted by the excellence of the re-
sults obtained and gave it their support. The ex-
perience gained in the first year, coupled with the
greater demand which it was known that there would
be for food, made it desirable that this scheme be
carried out on a broad scale. It was realized that it
would furnish much relief in supplying the army and
the nation with food.

GATHERING THE POTATOES

This staple article formed the principal crop from the 4OO-acre war garden which was inaugu-
rated at Camp Dix, New Jersey, by the National War Garden Commission in cooperation with
the Quartermaster General's Office of the army. More than 5,000 bushels of the tubers were grown.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 51

Shortly after the Camp Dix war garden was started,
Secretary Baker gave the undertaking his hearty en-
dorsement in the following letter addressed to the
National War Garden Commission:

The War Department finds much satisfaction in the
creation of war gardens at various army camps by the
Conservation and Reclamation Division of the Quarter-
master-General's office. Food production at these
camps has been the subject of some concern with the
Department. The large areas of tillable land within
many of the military reservations have been regarded
as offering potential food production on a large scale,
and I feel that the army is to be congratulated that the
utilization of this space has now taken concrete form.

Camp war gardens will serve more than one useful
purpose. The production of food at the mess door is
of great importance in that it not only lessens the army's
demand on the usual sources of supply but eliminates
transportation as well.

To the National War Garden Commission I extend
the thanks of the Department for its quick response to
the appeal of the Quartermaster-General's office for
cooperation. Not confining itself to. mere compliance
with the letter of the request, the Commission entered
fully into its spirit. At a time when funds were not
available through Government channels the Commis-
sion voluntarily provided seed, fertilizers, and equip-
ment which made possible the establishment of a war
garden of 300 acres or more at Camp Dix. For this
generous contribution and for swift action to overcome
the handicap of a late start I take pleasure in making
this acknowledgment and in expressing the hope that
the Camp Dix war garden of the National War Garden
Commission will prove an unqualified success.

52 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

Thus, in teeming army camps and on isolated moun-
tain-tops, on the wide reaches of the prairies and in
sun-splashed openings in the dusky forests; beside
roaring factories and in sequestered nooks on which
deer and bear peer shyly from near-by leafy coverts,
there have sprung up innumerable war gardens. In
riding across the country one sees them beside the rail-
road right of way, in back yards, small and great, on
lawns and in open fields, in every conceivable place
and of every imaginable size — sees these living emblems
that tell, as truly as the tiny Liberty Loan button on
the coat-lapel, where the owner stands and what he
stands for, because a war garden is a service badge
of living green.

GOING OUT TO MEET THE CROP

"the man who feeds the army" Col. J. W. Mclntosh, chief of subsistence, was deeply interested

in the demonstration war garden made by the soldiers at Camp Dix. His interest in the

food supply prompted him to go into the fields at Camp Dix and the camera

caught him as he helped camp Quartermaster Tompkins pick

tomatoes. Col. Mclntosh is at the left.

CHAPTER VI
HOW BIG BUSINESS HELPED

ORGANIZED EFFORT TO CAN THE KAISER

LIKE that young man of great possessions who
came to Christ, inquiring, "What shall I do
to be saved?" hundreds of men who possessed
or represented immense wealth, captains of industry
and leaders of big business, came forward in this pres-
ent-day struggle against pharisaism and demanded:
"What can we do to help?" In their desire to back
up the government, they were ready to do anything
possible to increase the efficiency of either their works
or their workers.

Even before the war began, a few manufacturing
concerns had started community gardening among
their employes, though the number of such enterprises
was small. Once the war-time need of food was pointed
out, however, business and industrial plants in every
part of the country organized their men for garden
production.

Happiness has been defined as a by-product of labor.
Straightway the concern engaged in the war-garden
movement found that it, too, had a valuable by-prod-
uct, and that was increased efficiency among the
workers. It was not alone through the addition of
certain amounts of food products to the nation's sup-
plies that war gardening proved valuable. It reacted

54 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

on the spirit of the workers themselves. It built up
a feeling of good-fellowship not previously existing.
It engendered a spirit of cooperation that carried over
into the work of the shop. It created that intangible
and invaluable thing, esprit de corps. It was produc-
tive of many good results throughout entire communi-
ties, which were reflected in the general financial and
social conditions within those communities.

No less marked were the gains from the employers'
point of view. The contented workman is the efficient
workman; and gardening, by providing better food than
can be had in the markets, and by virtually adding
to the worker's income, makes him more contented.
Money that otherwise would have to be spent for lood
can be used for the purchase of those small comforts
and luxuries that make for added happiness in the home.

Of great worth, too, is the recreational value of
gardening. The toiler in a noisy mill, or the worker
in a smoky forge or factory can find no avocation,
no recreation, that will build him up physically and
refresh his energies as will the cultivation of a plot of
ground.

Unexpectedly enough, also, war gardening resulted in
a lessening of the labor turnover. One striking testi-
monial on this latter point was contained in a report to
the Commission from a busy manufacturing city in the
Middle West. "Workers here," said this report, "re-
fused to leave the city to take work at higher wages
elsewhere because they had planted fine war gardens
and were so proud of them they would not leave them. "

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 55

Moreover, the knowledge that his employer is inter-
ested in his welfare inevitably creates a kindlier feel-
ing on the part of an employe toward his employer.
When officials of large concerns worked side by side with
their men in the factory gardens, as many far-seeing
managers did, a sympathetic understanding sprang up
that could have been created in scarcely any other
way. War gardening gave opportunity for the "per-
sonal touch" which manufacturing on a large scale
and collective bargaining have almost eliminated from
modern industry.

Perhaps these things can best be made clear by
quoting a captain of industry. Speaking not only for
himself, but also for other leaders of "big business,"
the superintendent of Foster, Merriam & Company, of
Meriden, Connecticut, wrote as follows to the National
War Garden Commission, after war gardening had been
tried out for a year at his plant:

Besides the material gain, the garden work promoted
a fine spirit of democracy and fellowship among the
men. Everybody, from the president to the humblest
employe, had a garden plot. And officers and employes,
working together as they did, fourid mutual interests
and fellowship there. The employes took a great deal
of interest in the work and kept the entire ten acres in
perfect shape, free from weeds, and well cared for at all
times. Owing to the interest manifested and the good
results obtained, it will be necessary to secure additional
land next year.

Among the large companies which helped their men
in this way was the Carnegie Steel Company. Here is

56 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

what the superintendent of one of the Carnegie plants
wrote the National War Garden Commission:

The plots were taken by men in all classes of employ-
ment. Laborers, skilled operators, clerks, and execu-
tives— a large number of them without previous experi-
ence— went into the work. A great variety of produce
was raised. Much spirit and rivalry developed among
the gardeners, this being increased by the offer of prizes
for the best gardens. In spite of the fact that the river
twice flooded part of the gardens during the growing
season, two of the prizes were taken by workers in the
flooded areas. The general average of the gardens was
above eighty per cent., and thirteen of them above
eighty-four per cent. Only one was adjudged a failure.
The committee of judges was compelled to revisit the
gardens twice after the first marking in order to decide
on the winners, and even then had to place several of
them on a par.

The gardens were not only an assistance to livelihood
and a decided profit to the average worker, but were
also an inspiration and fascination, as well as a means
of pleasure and healthful education and exercise.

From the rock-bound coasts of New England to the
far-flung shores of the Pacific, the war gardens of the
workers in industry stretched in an almost unbroken
line. The lumber camps of Washington and Oregon
and the mining settlements of Arizona boasted their
war gardens. The iron, cement and motor-car makers
of the Middle West had their garden plots. The cop-
per regions of Michigan, the shipyards of Texas, and the
roaring mills of the East, all beheld the sudden up-
springing of great gardens.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 57

"Our purpose is to encourage the raising of fresh
vegetables at the mills and logging camps of this state
and Oregon where employes are engaged in the pro-
duction of essential war material for shipping and air-
craft purposes," was the inspiring word from Robert
B. Allen, of Seattle, secretary of the West Coast Lum-
bermen's Association. C. S. Williams, vice-president
of the F. B. Williams Cypress Company, of Patterson,
Louisiana, reported thus to the Commission:

We are pleased to advise that practically every avail-
able piece of land that we own around the plant is
being used for war gardens for our employes. There
seems to be a great interest in home gardening through-
out this territory. We have never seen the land so
entirely and carefully cultivated. Hardly a family is
without a garden. Almost every one of our men has a
garden. The books you sent were quickly taken and
have been of great service to our people. They are now
planning a great canning campaign.

One of the most interesting instances of this eager-
ness to help both the country and its employes, was
furnished by the Inspiration Consolidated Copper
Company, of Inspiration, Arizona. Before a thing
could be planted, it was necessary to dig five artesian
wells to furnish the water needed for the two hundred
and seventeen acres of war gardens cultivated by the
miners in the first year of the enterprise. The land
was situated 3,300 feet up in the mountains. The re-
gion was arid. The employes were cosmopolitan.
Italians, Chileans, Mexicans, Indians, Finns, Swedes

58 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

and other nationalities were represented in the poly-
glot assembly. Few of them spoke much English, and
more than seventy per cent, of them spoke no English
at all. It was necessary not only to instruct them, but
to translate and print bulletins and lesson-sheets in a
number of languages.

A garden expert from the Arizona Agricultural Sta-
tion was engaged to take charge of the enterprise. The
double-crop system was employed so that as soon as one
crop was harvested another was started. If any war
gardener was found who did not take proper care of
the plot assigned to him, the ground was taken from
him and given to another. A market was established
to which the growers could carry any of their surplus
product and have it sold for them without charge for
the service. Nothing was permitted to go to waste, and
the food which could not be used at once was canned
or dried and stored for future use. On account of the
climate most of the conservation was by the drying
process. The amount of food grown was large and
the saving in this instance was particularly great be-
cause of the distance of the mining center from great
supply markets.

Something as to the methods used by other corpora-
tions in promoting the war-garden movement among
their workers may here be of interest. From Mr.
Luther D. Burlingame, industrial superintendent of
the Brown & Sharpe Manufacturing Company, at Prov-
idence, Rhode Island, comes an instructive report.

This concern opened the war-garden campaign by

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 59

posting a notice on the shop bulletin-boards, announc-
ing a chance to serve country and family by helping
to meet the serious shortage in the food supply, and
informing the men that the company would furnish
land, and plow and fertilize it free for those who would
raise crops. Cards for applicants were furnished to
the clerks in each department of the shop.

The plots were divided into several groups, in order
that the men might secure gardens as near as possible
to their places of residence. After the drawing, the
numbers of the gardens were filled in on the cards.
The required requisitions for fertilizer and seed went
through the supply department. The supplies pur-
chased were obtained at wholesale prices, the men being
charged only enough above cost to pay for the handling
and accounting.

To each gardener was given a card which bore his
name, address, and the number of his garden plot, to
constitute proof that he or any member of his family
carrying it had a right to the particular plot desig-
nated. These cards were issued for the protection of
both gardens and gardeners. Printed on them were
the following rules :

1. Members shall keep their plots weeded and as free
from bugs and injurious insects as possible.

2. Members shall not throw refuse on neighboring
plots, or in paths. After harvesting, lots are to be
cleaned, and refuse taken to places provided.

3. Members shall not plant closer than 12 inches
from the boundary line. Any one working your lot
must show this card.

60 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

A gardening club was organized with elected officers
representing as far as possible the different depart-
ments of the shop and different plots of land. The
general administration of the project was in the hands
of the shop industrial department, but the gardening
club was consulted and asked to pass on many mat-
ters which had to do with the satisfactory carrying-on
of the work, thus giving them something to say as to
what should be done. Part of the plowing was done
with a tractor. The land was divided into individual
plots each containing from 2,000 to 2,500 square feet;
and stakes were set diagonally at the corners of each
plot with the number of each plot showing at each
corner. At the largest garden center a tool-shed about
sixteen by thirty-six feet in size was erected where run-
ning water was available and a man placed in charge
so that tools could be given out on check. This shed
was open from daylight to shortly before working hours
each week-day, again at noontime, and from six o'clock
in the afternoon until dark. It was also open on Satur-
day afternoons and to some extent on Sundays. A
slight charge was made those who desired to hire tools
instead of buying their own.

To supervise the gardens and give general instructions
to the men who had not previously had gardening ex-
perience, a practical farmer with training in an agri-
cultural college was employed. As at other plants
throughout the country the gardens in many cases be-
came family affairs, and all the members of a family
took part either in work or in supervision.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 61

"As the season advanced," said Mr. Burlingame,
"a spirit of good-fellowship and the forming of new
acquaintanceships among those who found themselves
cultivating neighboring gardens, were features which
added to the value of the garden project. It was some-
times found that a laborer working side by side with a
foreman could, from the gardener's standpoint, turn
the tables, become instructor, and set the pace. When
illness prevented some man from working and there
were no members of his family to help out, shopmates
volunteered and cared for his garden or even harvested
his crops for him. Otten gardens cultivated by men hav-
ing had experience adjoined those where the workers
were beginners. In such cases the best good-will was
shown in giving and taking advice and instruction."

Regular inspections of the gardens were made and rec-
ords kept. If a garden showed signs of being neglected,
a notice was sent to the workman and this tended to
spur the food growers on to keep their plots in such
excellent condition that there would be no need for
criticism. The men took their work very seriously.
Some swamp land which had never been cultivated and
which was considered absolutely useless for garden
purposes was reclaimed and produced excellent re-
sults. The largest crop of potatoes in a single garden,
twenty bushels, was raised on a lot which the gardener
enlarged by digging up land which had been a dump
beyond the plowing. A number of prizes which were
offered by the company for the best crops both as to
size and quality aroused keen and friendly rivalry and

62 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

had much to do with stimulating the progress of the
undertaking. An exhibition was held in a shed at the
factory at the close of the season.

In the first year of this work, 1917, there was grown
in 500 gardens covering thirty acres of land, food valued
at $10,000. This added to the food supply of the work-
ers 4,000 bushels of potatoes, 254 bushels of beans,
223 bushels of tomatoes, five and a half tons of turnips,
more than two tons of carrots, three tons of cabbage,
and nearly a ton of parsnips, besides a large quantity
of other vegetables.

Similar statistics were gathered by the Firestone Tire
and Rubber Company, of Akron, Ohio, as to the value
of the crops produced by the Firestone workers on a
tract of forty acres. The average value per acre of
these crops was $280. The men raised $14,205 worth
of food. The total expenses were $3,024. The net
profit was $11,182. It was figured out that the men
earned on the average almost a dollar an hour for the
time spent in cultivating their plots, the exact figures
being ninety-four cents an hour.

Gratifying as these financial rewards were, the work-
ers were perhaps even better pleased with the realization
that they were aiding in bringing victory nearer. They
knew that they were cutting market and grocery bills
by raising a part of their own supplies; but they also
realized that to win the war, "food must be kept fol-
lowing the flag."

No class of people in the country was in a position
to realize more fully the immense value of war gardens

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 63

in another direction than the manufacturers and their
employes. This was in the saving effected in trans-
portation facilities. These men knew better than any
others the urgent demand which essential war shipping
was making on freight-cars. They saw and handled
daily the vast quantities of raw materials and finished
products which had to be hauled. They knew there
was a shortage which could not be made up entirely.
They were cognizant also that gardening would result
in a considerable conservation of carrier space which
could help to fill the demand. If hundreds of thousands
of workmen in all parts of the United States were grow-
ing much of their own food right near their homes, it
required no argument to prove that long lines of cars
would be released for other service.

The industrial promotion of the war-garden move-
ment was not confined to manufacturers. Railroads,
large insurance companies, public utilities in many
sections, banks, and those engaged in numerous other
lines of industrial -and commercial activity, were
equally enthusiastic and active in forwarding the move-
ment. Gas companies opened demonstration kitchens
and gave out thousands of books and other printed
matter. Water companies in many places throughout
the West, where the land required irrigation for culti-
vation, furnished water free to all those who announced
their intention of planting war gardens. Banks which
helped so unselfishly and patriotically in other cam-
paigns, urged home food production upon their patrons
by handing to them leaflets pointing out the national

64 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

need and the pressing importance of this work, and by
giving out also instruction books from the Commission
telling the city farmer how to proceed.

Praise must be extended to business as a whole for
the part it has taken in aiding in the cultivation of war
gardens by the nation's army of workers. A list of the
concerns which have helped in this way would be prac-
tically all inclusive. Among the big nationally known
companies which have been especially active in this
form of war work are the Oliver Chilled Plow Company,
Du Pont de Nemours & Company, the American Roll-
ing Mill Company, the American Woolen Company, the
General Electric Company, the United States Steel
Corporation, the American Optical Company, the
American Cast Iron Pipe Company, the American
Steel and Wire Company, the J. I. Case Plow Works,
the Universal Portland Cement Company, the Oliver
Iron Mining Company, the Ford Motor Company, the
Solvay Process Company and the Eastman Kodak
Company.

Employes at the various mills of the American Wool-
en Company planted in 1918 a total of 1,229 acres of
gardens; and Mr. William M. Wood, the president of
this big manufacturing concern which made large
quantities of clothing to help keep the American sol-
diers warm, expressed his gratification at this other
way in which the employes were working to help their
country.

As to some of the benefits to the workmen themselves,
the moral strength which they gain from their employ-

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 65

ment in this side occupation of gardening, their release
from the narrowing and confining work in which they
often are engaged, it is appropriate to quote from an
article by Professor Irving Fisher of Yale University, a
member of the Commission, in which he says:

A laboring man sees his work sweep by him, a peg in
a shoe, a bolt in an automobile, and since he is not able
to visualize his part in the product, his work ceases to
be interesting and becomes drudgery. He wants to
shorten his hours; and the employer, whose work is
interesting, whose work is his life, cannot understand
why the employe is always trying to shirk, whereas he
himself is willing to work twelve or sixteen hours a day.
The reason is that in one case the instinct of workman-
ship is satisfied and in the other case it is not.

Here we have summarized in a telling way one of the
best possible arguments in favor of the upbuilding, the
strengthening, and the continuation of war gardening
among the employes of mills, factories and shops.
The tasks they are performing in most cases do not
satisfy their "instinct of workmanship." They do not
finish their day's labor and go home with the feeling
that they have taken a step forward, that they have
accomplished something which will add to their value
to themselves, their families, the community and the
country.

A man who is a cog in a vast machine cannot put
individuality into the driving of continuous pegs into
a shoe; but when he gets outside the walls of the factory
into the little forty by sixty vegetable plot he is cul-

66 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

tivating under the shadow of the mill, he can put him-
self into this work. It is for his own good. What he
grows there will be his own property. It will go to
support himself and his family. How much or how
little of it there will be depends upon himself, upon
how intelligently and how faithfully he cares for the
plants. He takes an interest in watching every develop-
ment from day to day because he is to reap the reward.
This work is his own. It means that he will take a
deeper interest thereafter in the work he is doing for
his employer. It is only natural that a man should
feel a more real concern and show greater pride in
doing something where he will share in the profit. It
is not in any sense disparagement to a workman to say
that he cannot display the same sense of gratification
in his regular work.

There is greater diversity in the cultivation of a
garden than in most other tasks. It offers, in fact its
successful prosecution demands, good judgment and
the display of sound sense. This is healthful exercise
for the mind, which makes it more alert and more able
to grasp and figure out other problems arising every
day of the workman's life. Combined with this mental
activity is the invigorating bodily exercise than which
there is none better than digging in the earth and get-
ting close to nature.

While the reports to the National War Garden Com-
mission show that the methods adopted by various
manufacturing concerns which encouraged gardening
among their men differed somewhat in detail, as would

THIS IS NOT NEPTUNE!

Joe Borzell, an employe of the Oliver Chilled Plow Company, South Bend, Indiana, was
proud to pose for his picture with some of the fine potatoes and cabbages he had raised in his war
garden. It is plainly to be seen that some of the company's other workers who had gardens had
to show extra fine results to beat this man's products.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 67

of necessity be the case, still the fundamental principles
were the same; and the results obtained, chief among
them better contentment among the men, were every-
where alike. The Commission feels that no other
single phase of its work has been of greater and of
more lasting benefit than the stimulus it has been able
to give to the wonderful growth of factory gardening.
Increased food production by this means is of immeas-
urable value to the nation, to the community, to the
employer of labor, and to the individual. In congested
industrial centers it is particularly desirable that every
possible relief be given to freight transportation sys-
tems; and the raising of large quantities of food "F.
O. B. the Factory Door" affords great help in that
direction. Business men have seen the advantage of
this movement and will continue to encourage and
expand gardening among their employes.

CHAPTER VII
HOW THE RAILROADS HELPED

WAR GARDEN ACTIVITIES OF MANAGEMENT AND EMPLOYES

A soon as America became a belligerent the rail-
roads of the country sought to help relieve the
food shortage and the traffic situation by
encouraging the cultivation of all vacant lands along
their rights-of-way. They called on their employes to
plant this unused acreage wherever it might be found.
To railroad managers the double value to be gained was
quickly manifest. The movement would not only add
to the nation's food supply but be an important and
direct factor in relieving the demands on the carriers
for the hauling of freight. The result was that nearly
all the railroad lines ran through gardens of growing
vegetables which were soon seen flourishing every-
where, along the tracks, around the cosy little watch-
boxes of the crossing flagmen and even alongside sta-
tion platforms.

The railroads furnished the land to their men free of
charge or at nominal rental, and in many cases further
assisted them by supplying quantities of seed and by
aiding in the preparation of the soil. They placed
posters in their stations calling attention to this oppor-
tunity for patriotic service, and distributed tens of
thousands of copies of gardening and canning manuals
furnished them by the National War Garden Commis-

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 69

sion. The Pennsylvania Railroad alone, on its lines
east of Pittsburgh, gave out during the season of 1918
more than 20,000 copies of these instruction booklets.
The division superintendents and their assistants acted
as the distributing agents. In addition they frequently
assisted in other ways in helping to arouse the entire
local and community interest in this work. Through
the posters, displayed conspicuously on bulletin boards,
the attention of hundreds of thousands of other persons
besides railroad employes was called to the urgent need
of war gardens and of conserving food. Local station
agents were also a powerful factor in the work. Not
only did they encourage the company employes to
engage in gardening but they assisted in other ways to
arouse interest.

As a sample of what the railroads did in this direction,
here is an extract from a general notice, signed by
R. L. O'Donnel, assistant general manager of the Penn-
sylvania Railroad, which was posted along all the lines
of that road. This was addressed "To all employes of
the Pennsylvania Railroad." It said:

Owing to the interest shown, and the substantial
results obtained by employes of the Pennsylvania Rail-
road in the cultivation of war gardens last year, the
Management will renew for the present season the
arrangement by which vacant land belonging to the
Company may be available to employes for garden pur-
poses, at a nominal rental. . . . All employes who are
able to do so, are urged to take advantage of these
opportunities by cultivating war gardens this spring and
summer, thus assisting our country in the production

70 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

of food, and also aiding in a very essential manner to
win the war. Employes taking this action will, in
addition, be helping themselves in one of the best pos-
sible ways. It is for just such purposes as these that
the Daylight Saving plan was initiated. Last year the
employes of the Pennsylvania Railroad lines east of
Pittsburgh raised crops of an estimated value of one
quarter of a million dollars. Let us endeavor to surpass
this good record in 1918.

Many other railroads deserve special mention for
their activity in this line. Among them are the New
York Central, the Union Pacific, the Northern Pacific,
the Missouri, Kansas & Texas, the Illinois Central, the
Atlantic Coast Line, the Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific,
the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy, the Long Island, the
New York, New Haven & Hartford, the Missouri Pacific,
the Erie, the Boston & Albany, the Delaware & Hudson,
the Chicago & Northwestern, the Pere Marquette, the
Louisville & Nashville, the Norfolk & Western, the
Seaboard Air Line, the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul
and the Cleveland, Cincinnati, Chicago & St. Louis.
The New York, Chicago & St. Louis Railroad Company
reported that a number of gardens were planted along
its right of way in 1917 and that in 1918 all available
land was applied for and assigned for this purpose.

A report from the Buifalo, Rochester & Pittsburgh
Railway showed that more than 2,100 bushels of seed
potatoes were furnished to the prospective gardeners,
and that the men not only planted these but bought
more for themselves, besides buying seed for other

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 71

vegetables. The resultant yield was 28,000 bushels of
potatoes and other garden products to a value of $15,400.
The Chicago, Burlington & Quincy reported among
other products 3,000 carloads of beans from lands which
hitherto had been considered of little value except for
grazing purposes.

Plans for the continuation and extension of this work
in 1919 have been put into effect by the United States
Railroad Administration on all the lines over which it
has supervision; and in urging the call of Victory
Gardens it cooperates closely with the National War
Garden Commission. In response to an appeal sent out
by J. L. Edwards, director of the agricultural section of
the Railroad Administration, replies have been received
from virtually all the regional directors and other
officials stating that they would promote the movement
to the fullest extent possible. A notable example was
the reply from B. F. Bush, regional director of the south-
western region. He said: "I wish to state that the
railroads in the southwestern region will again do every-
thing they possibly can in permitting their rights-of-way
and station grounds to be used for farming and garden-
ing purposes. During the last season this work was
handled on practically every railroad in this region with
much success and it will be repeated." Alexander
Jackson, agricultural agent of the Chicago, Rock Island
& Pacific, answered as follows: "We feel that the War
Garden is a permanent fixture in practically all parts of
our territory where gardening is possible." C. L.
Hoffman, agricultural agent of the New York, Ontario

72 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

& Western, sent this message: "I assure you that I
shall do all in my power to have the cooperation of
all the officials of o*ur roads in an endeavor to increase
the victory gardens of 1919 over the war gardens of
1918." Similar evidences of activity were received
from many others.

New posters were furnished the officials by the Com-
mission to help carry to the railroad men and the public
all over the United States the call for continuing and
increasing home food production. These posters were
placed in stations throughout the country, in the great
city terminals and in the stations in small towns, under
a general order issued by W. G. McAdoo, Director
General of Railroads. The posters thus officially dis-
played are regarded as one of the most potent factors
in reaching the American public with the message of
the world's food needs which followed the signing of
the armistice.

CHAPTER VIII
THE ARMY OF SCHOOL GARDENERS

How THE CHILDREN OF AMERICA WERE MOBILIZED BY THE GOVERNMENT

A a factor in education the war garden and its
successor, the victory garden, have established
themselves in a way that will prove a permanent
influence in American life. Through the schools millions
of children have been awakened to the value of garden-
ing as a patriotic effort of war time and an undertaking
worth while at all times. They have been taught that
nature is a generous giver who requires only to be
encouraged. They have been impressed with the impor-
tance of food production and trained into an army
of practical producers. The national benefit from such
teaching and training cannot fail to be far-reaching in
its effects and a lasting force in the lives of the future
men and women of America.

In the development of school gardeners two ideas were
given consideration. An immediate increase in food
production went hand in hand with the educational
value of the work. It was not expected, of course, that
all school children would become immediate producers,
but it was certain that the great volume of work under-
taken in the schools would be of appreciable worth in
swelling the total of war time food pro:duction and of
even greater importance in creating a vast army of
future citizens trained to intelligent application of the

73 .

74 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

principles of thrift, industry, service, patriotism and
responsibility. The results have been highly gratifying
to those concerned with the undertaking.

For the mobilization of the school children the logical
agency wa's theUnited States Bureau of Education of the
Department of the Interior. P. P. Claxton, United States
Commissioner of Education, approached the under-
taking with broad vision and keen foresight character-
istic of his administration of educational affairs for the
Federal Government. Under his guidance there came
into being the United States School Garden Army,
mobilized with effective promptness and swung into
action under the leadership of J. H. Francis as director.
Dr. Francis is an educator of note who was drafted into
this important work by Commissioner Claxton, and he
brought to bear on the enterprise perception and aggres-
siveness which achieved results of national importance
in comparatively brief time.

President Wilson was keenly interested in the United
States School Garden Army. His cordial endorsement
was expressed in a letter to Secretary Lane which served
as the corner stone of the structure and an inspiration
to the children of America. This letter was as follows:

February 25, 1918.
My dear Mr. Secretary:

I sincerely hope that you may be successful through
the Bureau of Education in arousing the interest of
teachers and children in the schools of the United States
in the cultivation of home gardens. Every boy and girl
who really sees what the home garden may mean will,

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 75

I am sure, enter into the purpose with high spirits,
because I am sure they would all like to feel that they
are in fact fighting in France by joining the home garden
army. They know that America has undertaken to
send meat and wheat and flour and other foods for the
support of the soldiers who are doing the fighting for
the men and women who are making the munitions,
and for the boys and girls of Western Europe, and that
we must also feed ourselves while we are carrying on
this war. The movement to establish gardens, there-
fore, and to have the children work in them is just as
real and patriotic an effort as the building of ships or
the firing of cannon. I hope that this spring every
school will have a regiment in the Volunteer War
Garden Army.

Cordially and sincerely yours,

WOODROW WILSON.
HON. FRANKLIN K. LANE,
Secretary of the Interior.

From the outset the United States School Garden
Army allied itself with the National War Garden Com-
mission for the conduct of the work for which it had
been organized. This affiliation covered not only food
production through gardening but also the work of food
conservation through home canning and drying.

One of the first requisites of the newly formed army
was that its membership should be reached with tech-
nical instructions so compiled as to be authoritative and
so presented as to be easily understood. To accomplish
this the United States School Garden Army utilized the
publications of the National War Garden Commission.

76 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

In response to official request, these were furnished by
the Commission in sufficient quantities for circulation
among the schools of America. The Commission's book
"War Vegetable Gardening" was made the standard
book of instructions and it reached every school in the
land through the machinery of the United States School
Garden Army. In similar way the Commission's book
on canning and drying was distributed and given official
recognition in the educational world.

The satisfactory results achieved through the cooper-
ation of the two organizations was given expression
by Director Francis in the following letter to the Com-
mission under date of October 5th, 1918:

My dear Mr. Ridsdale:

I do not feel that I should allow the Garden season
of 1917-1918 to close without acknowledging to you the
very great service the National War Garden Commis-
sion has rendered the United States School Garden
Army organization, and telling you that we deeply
appreciate the cordial, earnest way in which you have
cooperated with us in working out our problem.

For 1919 the work of the United States School Garden
Army was further expanded and standardized. Per-
ceiving the value of school cooperation through the
Bureau of Education, the National War Garden Com-
mission prepared special printings of the victory editions
of these books.

These are for the exclusive use of the United States
School Garden Army. On the front cover of the school
edition of each book appears a reproduction in the

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 77

original colors, of the poster by Maginel Wright
Enright, which has become known as the pictorial trade-
mark of the Army. This poster presents Uncle Sam as
the Pied Piper of the Gardens, at the head of an army
of children bearing garden tools as their weapons. As
an introduction the books carry an official proclamation
to the schools of America, calling on them for further
work in the cause of food production and conservation.
In his proclamation Director Francis says :

The food problems of peace give renewed emphasis
to the demand for food production. With the ending
of the conflict came the necessity for feeding many
millions more of the people of Europe. Food Adminis-
trator Hoover tells us this country must send 20,000,-
ooo tons of food overseas during the year ending July
i, 1919. To make this possible it is essential that pro-
duction be carried on to the utmost of our possibilities.
The farms have lost a large proportion of their man-
power. Some one must take the places of the men who
have left the farms and of the women who have gone
into channels of industry in which they were not pre-
viously employed.

The boys and girls of America must help to do this.
There is a mighty army of them, thirty to fifty million
strong, who have heads, hearts, and hands, leisure time
and patriotism to spare. There are also hundreds of
thousands of acres of tillable land uncultivated. The
problem is, therefore, to get these two factors together.
It is a problem requiring careful, efficient organization.
The organization is here, one of the most powerful in
the country — the public school system of America. To
build another capable of doing the work in hand would
require years and cost millions. School gardens and

78 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

school-supervised home gardens have received serious
attention, but only a negligible part of the work has
been undertaken. The school system should and must
undertake the work with seriousness and determination
and give the world results that are real and adequate.
Superintendents of schools must make their schools
a vital, an actual, force in giving more food to the world
and in conserving what is produced. They must do
this in addition to talking and writing about this some-
what spectacular and highly interesting phase of the
school's part in the war. And this is their work, not
to be sublet to other agencies who by the very nature
of the problem can not solve it but can only contribute
to its solution.

Commissioner Claxton and Director Francis are
deeply gratified at the success of the garden movement
among the school children and greatly impressed with
its promise for the future. The interest thus awakened
and the practical knowledge thus acquired by the young
gardeners, they regard as one of the most important
national benefits of the war and one which will be of
immeasurable worth in its influence on American
citizenship.

CHAPTER IX
COMMUNITY GARDENING

PUTTING "SLACKER LANDS" TO WORK

AMERICAN war gardening, like every other de-
velopment in life, has gone through a process of
evolution. Because the exigencies of the situ-
ation necessitated haste, that evolution has been rapid.
Contending with the most wonderfully organized force
the world has ever seen, it was necessary, since so much
depended upon the American war garden, to apply to
it the principle of the best organization, and to unify
it in order to strengthen it. As a result there speedily
came into existence the community garden.

Many are the advantages gained through community
gardening. To begin with, community gardening is
practically the only method by which all available
garden space can be put to work. Genuine community
gardening, where all available lands are surveyed and
allotted to gardeners, hardly falls short of land con-
scription. Community gardening played no small
part in helping to win the recent war. To get enough
food to win, the Allied peoples had to utilize every pps-
sible garden spot. In America back-yard areas were
readily worked by patriotic owners. The enormous
areas of "slacker lands," idle, vacant town lots, could
not be put to work without considerable difficulty.

At the very least, the owner's permission had to be

8o THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

secured before a lot could be farmed; and the average
man was either too diffident or too lacking in initiative
to secure such permission. On the other hand, the
average lot-owner did not care to be repeatedly annoyed
by requests from various individuals for the use of his
idle lands. Both of these difficulties were obviated
through real community gardening. The lot-owner
dealt with known, responsible representatives of the
gardening organization and had to give his consent
but once; while the would-be gardener, far from having
to seek a plot, was assisted to find one.

Community gardening is also important in that it
effects a saving of labor. In preparing the land, for
instance, a team of horses or a tractor can plow a large
number of gardens in one day. Where the ground is
in large plots, a team can readily prepare one acre in a
day. One acre will contain slightly more than twenty-
one gardens each forty by fifty feet — a good size for a
family plot. By plowing the tract with a team, the
cost to each of the twenty-one gardeners is small. To
dig by hand a plot forty by fifty feet, particularly if
manure is to be turned under, requires many hours of
hard labor. If the gardener has at his command for
gardening no time other than the after-work hours of
the evening, it will take him several days merely to
get his seed-bed prepared.

Again, when a group of people are together cultiva-
ting a large plot of land, they can often purchase their
supplies, including fertilizer, implements, and seed, at
wholesale rates, and thus effect a considerable financial

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 81

saving. One implement will often serve for two or more
gardeners, the gardeners arranging to use it at different
times. Employes of factories who have worked to-
gether in this way have found the community sys-
tem of much benefit. Other groups too have found it
equally helpful.

Community gardening also makes it possible for
expert supervision to be provided. A group of scat-
tered individuals would probably find it difficult to
engage the services of a skilled gardener to help them
in their planting and cultivating. At slight expense to
each person involved, a community group of gardeners
can employ some expert to look over their gardens once
or twice a week, or as often as is found necessary, and
t© guide them in all problems of cultivation.

Some groups of community gardeners may be for-
tunate enough to have among them a man trained in
gardening, who is willing to give them the benefit of
his experience without charge. In other cases it may be
necessary to pay the supervisor in some way for his
instruction. In any event, whether the community
group possesses a trained gardener or not, all the mem-
bers will be able to gain a certain amount of benefit from
the experiences of their fellows. Each will possess some
bit of information which will be helpful to the others.

Another gain to the community workers is the friendly
rivalry which is aroused by close contact with fellow
food producers. Each acts as a pacemaker to the
others. Each strives to make his plot "the best." He
begins by aiming to keep his garden freer from weeds

82 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

than his neighbor's. This means that he gives it better
and more intensive cultivation and in so doing he is
certain to increase his yield.

"Well, John, how many bushels of potatoes do you
expect to get off your lot?" is the question which one
gardener asks of his side-partner.

"Oh, I think I'll have five bushels," is the reply.

"Well, I'll bet you a good cigar that I beat you by a
bushel, " is the friendly banter.

"You're on!" And so it goes.

Each of them turns to and digs a little harder than
he did before. Then darkness overtaking them, they
walk home together discussing the ways of bugs and
the wherefore of wilt and blight.

The value of such good-natured encouragement and
cheer is not to be taken lightly. Always this marching
forward together, with a brother's hand on the shoulder,
has made the work of life easier and has added to the
output of the workers.

In community gardening the question of organiza-
tion is always an important one to be considered.
This is true no matter what the size of the undertaking,
whether it includes the working out of plans for an
entire city or for a single group of workers in one large
plot. In starting a new enterprise of this sort it must
be known how much land is available for cultivation,
the location and character of the land, the kind and
quantity of manures and fertilizers readily procurable,
what skilled directors can be secured, and the probable
number of gardeners.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 83

When the problem is being worked out, whether for
the first time or for a realignment of forces and appor-
tionment, an inventory of the town's gardening re-
sources should be taken. A survey for this purpose can
be made by existing agencies, or a special force or com-
mittee can be appointed for the purpose. A complete
community survey in a town should include all lands
within the district, private yards as well as vacant
lots. The Chamber of Commerce, the Board of Trade,
or the Civic Club is naturally the nucleus for such an
effort; but the school board or a church or political
club can conduct the work just as effectively. The
local Council of Defense, the Mayor's War Committee
or a similar organization should help. Through these
agencies communities in all parts of the United States
were intensively organized for the war-garden campaign
conducted in 1917 and again in 1918.

When it is known that there is such united effort
back of a movement, it gains in strength and prestige
and there is greater stimulus to the individual worker.
People will enter with more vim and enthusiasm into
a task which has the backing and support of all their
fellow-townsmen. Public meetings should be held to
enlist interest and to secure more general cooperation.
At these meetings there should be addresses by some
of the leaders in community thought, in addition to
discussion of the work by those who are more directly
concerned with its operation and guidance.

In making a survey of the available garden space in
a city or town, there are certain well-established meth-

84 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

ods of procedure which have been found most helpful.
Survey forces should be selected, one for each district
in the community. Each should have a leader and
assistants. In many successful surveys these forces have
consisted of senior classes in high schools, of Sunday
school classes, of troops of older Boy Scouts, or of other
boys. A certain day was selected for the work and this
fact well advertised through the newspapers and by
announcement in other ways. Large-scale maps show-
ing the different parcels of land simplified the work.
Each leader, with his assistants, was made responsible
for a certain district. Then cards were prepared for
the information as gathered. On these cards questions
similar to the following were printed:

1. Name, address, and telephone number of land-

owner.

2. Whether land is a back yard or vacant lot.

3. Location of plot.

4. Approximate area in square feet.

5. Condition of the plot.

6. Whether owner will cultivate it or rent or lend it.

7. On what terms and conditions owner will rent or

lend.

Other inquiries as to the amount of fertilizer avail-
able at different points, the quantity of seed likely to
be required, also the demand for tools and other sup-
plies, usually are made at the same time. With all
these cards filled out and arranged alphabetically, the
committee is in possession of a complete and compre-
hensive survey of all the garden space available in the

mtt

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 85

community. Meantime, the committee can receive
applications from those desiring gardens, and assign
convenient plots as soon as arrangements can be made
with the owners. Thus it is possible, with compara-
tively little difficulty, to provide for the working of
every foot of available garden land in the community.

In the gardening itself there should likewise be cooper-
ation. In every town may be found retired farmers or
experienced truck growers or a county agricultural
agent; and arrangements should be made with some such
trained worker to give advice and instruction as to
selecting the crops best suited to the soil and as to the
details of planting and cultivation. Where such indi-
vidual is not available, sometimes it is desirable to
raise a fund that may be used to hire a g-arden expert
to supervise the work. Where possible, the cost of
supervision should be borne from a general fund raised
by the organization in charge. If this is not practicable,
the individual gardeners should pay it in proportion to
the size of their plots. The supervision should extend
over the entire gardening season.

A group of gardeners should be organized just as any
other association is organized, with its executive head
and its directing committees. Various problems are
bound to come up each season, and these can be
handled better through committees than if the indi-
viduals themselves or a few of them attempt to solve
them. The executive head should have general super-
vision of the work and for this reason should be, if
possible, some person who is familiar with gardening.

86 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

Committees should arrange for purchasing seed, ferti-
lizers, and other necessary supplies for the entire group.
This cooperative spirit will save time and money to
all concerned and will bring better results. Reduced
rates usually can be secured when garden supplies of any
sort are bought in considerable quantities.

In dividing a large tract into a number of individual
plots, it should be remembered that an average size of
forty by sixty feet is about as much as is needed for one
family. This should give an ample supply of vegetables
not only for summer use but to provide a surplus for
canning and drying purposes and for winter storage.
After a large piece of land has been divided and allotted,
it must be understood that for garden purposes the lot
assigned is the property of the person or family to
whom it was given, and it should be protected as such.
Each plot should be numbered. In assigning plots the
fairest way is by drawing numbers.

As a specific instance of organized community gar-
dening, the story of garden production in Marshall-
town, Iowa, in 1918, is of interest. Marshalltown is a
city of approximately 20,000 people. Mayor S. H.
Reilly, sensing the crisis in the food situation, called
upon the county agricultural agent to determine the
amount of space within the city that could be put into
gardens. The county agent's survey revealed a fine
farm within the city limits, for the aggregate area of
the unused vacant lots which could be put to work ex-
ceeded seventy-five acres. The county agent found,
moreover, 300 tons of stable manure suitable for fer-

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 87

tilizer which was going to waste. This was enough
to provide four tons for each acre. The survey com-
pleted, arrangements were speedily made with the
owners whereby the unused lands could be put to work.

The county agent's survey also revealed things other
than land and fertilizer. He discovered that many 1917
gardens had been failures because the gardeners were
ignorant of agricultural principles. They had tried to
raise vegetables in soil not suited to them, and they
did not understand cultural methods. Among the
residents of Marshalltown were a number of retired
farmers. Like Cincinnatus, called from his plow to
become a public servant, these farmers were called
from their retirement by the Mayor and drafted for
public service. They were made garden supervisors
for the city. Each was appointed to oversee the work
in several blocks and to make sure that the gardens
were properly planted and well cared for. In order that
seeds might be assured to rich and poor alike, a public
subscription was taken to provide money for their
purchase. Thus Marshalltown's gardens, like Mrs.
Fuzziwig's smile, were both vast and substantial.

To organized community effort was due a large part
of the success of the war-garden movement in the United
States. Without such help it is certain that the city
farming plan never could have attained the overwhelm-
ing success with which it has met. The generous thanks
of the nation are due the loyal and self-sacrificing local
committees and associations which gave of their time
and their energy to carrying through the plans which

88 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

resulted in popularizing home gardening. War-garden
associations were created to arouse people to the need of
the work, to get them started, and to give them guidance
and assistance as they proceeded. The cooperation in
this community effort came from many sources. Offi-
cials of all sorts, almost without exception, gave the
movement their endorsement and support and fre-
quently served on the committees while prominent
individuals showed equal patriotism in their desire to
see vegetables grow where none had grown before.

That the war-garden associations thus formed will be
permanent bodies, or continue as committees of the
local chambers of commerce, boards of trade, or other
bodies, is assured. So excellent has been the work ac-
complished in this organized way that community effort
to aid home food production must continue. With the
knowledge and experience already gained, these local
committees should become more and more a factor in
helping to solve food problems as they arise. Their pur-
pose and their power doubtless will expand; and they
will become community centers servingfor the discussion
and initiation of other methods of food production.

CHAPTER X

COOPERATION IN GARDENING

UNITY IN THE "SECOND LINE OF DEFENSE"

FORTUNATELY the movement to coordinate
gardening activities in America, from the outset,
met with sympathetic response. Thanks to the
loyal cooperation accorded the National War Garden
Commission, there was never any question of the success
of the garden campaign. Such question as there may
have been was merely as to the extent of that success.
At no time was there hesitation on the part of those
enlisted in the army of the soil as to carrying out the
suggestions made to them. In a spirit of loyal and
hearty cooperation organizations of all sorts and indi-
viduals of all classes throughout the United States
worked with the Commission to overcome every obsta-
cle that threatened the success of the food-production
campaign.

Merely to tabulate the names of the various clubs,
committees, and individuals who helped in this move-
ment would require a volume. Such a list would
include hundreds of state, county, and local organiza-
tions which through their officers, committees, and
branches stimulated the interest of their own members
and of others in war gardening. It would contain the
names of hundreds of chambers of commerce and other

trade bodies; city and county officials; mayors and

90 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

postmasters; school superintendents and college in-
structors; superintendents of park departments and
health officers; women's clubs and home demonstra-
tion agents; insurance companies and railroads; lumber
and mining companies; banks and business houses;
commissions for beautifying cities and tenement-
house inspection officers; lighthouse-service supervisors
and bureaus of municipal research; public libraries and
church societies; ministers of the gospel and leaders of
boys' clubs and many others who were able in various
ways to cooperate in spreading the message and in
rendering active assistance in getting the vacant places
of our cities and towns to work growing food. This
service was given in both the production and the con-
servation campaigns of the Commission.

This cooperation took many forms. In some cases
it was of an active and constant character, beginning
with the start of the drive to get the war gardeners
lined up in the army of the soil and continuing until
the last tomato was pulled and the final potato dug;
or until the last canned or dried vegetable had been
placed on the pantry shelf and the final prizes awarded.
In other cases it consisted merely of the distribution
to interested parties of a supply of the Commission's
gardening or canning and drying manuals, with a word
to each home food producer wishing him success in his
patriotic work and praising him for his undertaking.
More than 4,000,000 of the Commission's books on
gardening and canning and millions of its bulletins and
leaflets were given interested persons in 1918.

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THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 91

Libraries all over the United States gave most gen-
erous support to the work of the Commission. Many
made special displays of books on gardening. They
placed posters on their bulletin-boards or in other con-
spicuous places, calling the attention of readers to the
need for food and informing them that gardening
books and canning manuals could be had for the asking.
"The supply you sent us is exhausted, and the demand
continues," was the characteristic word the Commis-
sion received from a large number of libraries to which
consignments of the books had been shipped.

In some cities and towns the work was carried on
merely by the popular sentiment in favor of war gar-
dens which was stirred up by appeals in the press and
other publications. In many places, however, war
garden associations were organized to guide and direct
the movement, or voluntary committees undertook
to perform this service. The leaders in many cases
were familiar with methods of procedure and required
little assistance. As a rule, however, they were glad
to receive publications giving them detailed informa-
tion as to how to plan and carry on their work. Again
they were pleased to receive instruction books on gar-
dening which they could distribute among the numer-
ous applicants, and this was true even in cities and
towns where it was possible to secure the services of
paid agricultural experts to take charge of the technical
end of the campaign.

Nowhere did the Commission receive more loyal
support and he!arty cooperation than from the public

92 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

press. Closely in touch with conditions the world over,
newspaper editors understood, as perhaps many others
could not understand, the gravity of the food situation.
In their endeavor to do their share, they gave gener-
ously of their news space. Particularly was it neces-
sary to get the appeal for home food gardens before
the dwellers in towns, especially in the larger centers of
population, for there food was most needed, and there
people were least likely to take upon themselves the
duty of cultivating the small plots of land at their
disposal. Practically all such Americans were reached
by the Commission through the newspapers. In fact,
practically all Americans were reached. News stories
were prepared by the Commission's publicity bureau,
setting forth the facts as to the world food situation,
and these articles were placed in the hands, not of a
few editors, but of hundreds a:nd hundreds. Not only
were most of these news stories freely printed, but
often they were also prominently featured in such way
as to emphasize the message they contained.

After the need of gardening had thus been sufficiently
impressed upon the mind of the public, the Commission's
staff of experts prepared daily lessons in gardening,
which were sent to a great number of newspapers.
Hundreds of leading newspapers, from the Atlantic
to the Pacific, carried these daily lessons. The Phila-
delphia North American, to mention only one of many
large city newspapers, printed a garden lesson daily
for many weeks, publishing it on its front page and
displaying it in a special box to attract attention.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 93

These lessons began with the preparation of the soil
and the sowing of seed in the house for early vegetables,
and dealt with one or more vegetables daily, setting
forth in simple language the proper cultural methods
for the vegetables in question, and pointing out the
diseases and enemies of the particular products under
discussion, together with methods of combating them.
Though simple in language and shorn of all useless
technicalities, these daily gardening lessons lacked no
essential cultural directions; and even a beginner could
have become a successful gardener by following care-
fully the directions given.

The publicity campaign did not end with telling
gardeners how to raise vegetables. As soon as the
garSen season was well started, appeals were made
through the newspapers for the conservation of all
excess garden products. The necessity for such conser-
vation was first pointed out, and then methods of
canning and drying garden products and fruit were set
forth simply and completely. These publicity cam-
paigns in the public press went hand in hand with the
issuance of the Commission's various books, which
were offered free to any one upon request.

Despite the wonderful response of the public to
appeals to raise garden products, it was apparent that
the need for food increased rather than decreased,
because production so constantly fell off in Europe.
The constant dripping of water will wear away even
the hardest stone, and the Commission believed that
the endless repetition of the garden appeal would

94 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

finally move even the most indifferent reader. For
this reason its publicity campaign did not end with the
gardening season. News stories and garden statis-
tics of all sorts were gathered by the Commission and
given to the press. These stories included accounts of
the work of individual gardeners, of garden clubs, of
communities, and of the organized gardeners in great
industries. Likewise the Commission gathered to-
gether thousands of cartoons and funny stories and
jokes about war gardens and war gardeners, and issued
books of these humorous items. The press reproduced
this matter the country over and in this way the funny-
bone of America was tickled with the garden idea. The
Commission's publicity work was not confined to the
daily press. Feature stories were supplied to many
magazines and periodicals as well as to the magazine
sections of Sunday newspapers. These articles were
more pretentious than those prepared for the dailies.
They aimed not merely to be authoritative but to have
literary quality as well. They dealt with gardening
from many different points of view, but always the
lesson was conveyed that more food was needed and
that it would have to be raised by the average American,
irrespective of his vocation. With these magazine
articles, and with many of its newspaper stories as well,
the Commission supplied illustrations. Its agents had
secured hundreds and hundreds of interesting photo-
graphs showing different phases, of garden work in al-
most every portion of the country. These pictures,
portraying war gardens from the arid sands of the

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 95

Southwest to the cold mountain slopes of the North-
east and from the rocky coasts of the north Atlantic
to the sandy beaches of the Pacific, brought home to
every one who saw them the idea that everywhere, in
all sorts of places, people of all kinds were toiling to
produce food. The moral, "Go and do likewise," was
too obvious to be missed.

Whatever would attract attention to the need of
gardening, or help the gardener with his work, or
assist in putting to work the large areas of "slacker
lands," the Commission tried to portray by word or
picture in the pages of the daily press, the weekly
magazines, and the periodicals of less frequent publica-
tion. It stood ready to furnish, and did furnish, garden-
ing and conservation matter of any sort to any one who
requested it. Service was the motto of the Commission,
and that service was well repaid in the splendid response
of the American people to the appeal for gardens.

CHAPTER XI
WAR GARDENS AS CITY ASSETS

A THING OF BEAUTY Is A JOY FOREVER

EVERY city aims to be as prosperous and progres-
sive as possible and nowadays most people realize
that the city beautiful is also likely to be the
city commercially worth while. Probably no other
one enterprise will add more to a city's beauty than
gardening. Gardening, therefore, has double value.
It both enriches and beautifies. By the same token
it develops civic pride and community spirit.

For these reasons any community shpuld delight in
being called a "garden city," whether the name is
applied literally or merely in a figurative sense. One
result of the war-garden movement is that practically
any American community can truthfully be designated
by this term.

It is fortunate indeed that this is true. Unity of
thought, of action, of ideals, is the crying need of the
hour in America. United, we stand; divided, we fall.
Probably nothing is more potent as a factor for build-
ing up community spirit than gardening, particularly
community gardening. A link to bind men together is
gardening. It creates common interests. It unites all
hands in the common end of producing food. Rubbing
elbows in their garden patches, lawyers and laborers,
tradesmen and housewives, speedily discover that they
96

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 97

have much in common. One of the things they have
in common is their interest in their community; for
each wishes to see it progress.

If the democracy of a nation depends upon the democ-
racy of the individuals who compose that nation, then
assuredly the war garden is a forge that is daily strength-
ening the links in our chain of democracy. Our soldiers,
shoulder to shoulder in the trenches, learned, that,
whatever their respective stations in life, they are
brothers. In a heat a little less intense, but none the
less sufficient to weld the strongest souls, our garden-
ers, too, have fused into a solid unit. Link by link the
chain of our democracy has grown stronger.

With it has grown our civic pride — the pride of each
community in the progress it is making. One of the
progressive things cities are proud of to-day is the
extent of their war-garden activities. Just as different
communities aimed to be the first "over the top" in a
Liberty Loan campaign, and to secure the flag which
spoke of patriotic duty performed, so they have been
anxious to excel in the number of war gardens they have
planted and in the amount of food they have raised to
help the boys "over there."

The National War Garden Commission has received
from hundreds of cities and towns throughout the
United States expressions showing how proud they are
of their war-garden records. Typical items of this
enthusiasm are these: "Every bit of available land
is being cultivated;" "There is scarcely a home here
without a war garden;" "All back yards and vacant
7

98 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

lots are being planted;" "We believe we have the best
war gardens in the United States." Each city wanted
to make a record in food production. It is through
rivalry of this sort that cities progress.

War gardening, again, is an asset to any city in that
it adds to that city's material wealth. All food grown
adds just so much to a city's wealth. In the first place
gardening gives the individual more money. By plant-
ing a home garden he reduces his own expenses, saving
many dollars on his market and grocery bills. Whether
he saves and invests this money in some local enter-
prise, or spends it for necessities or even luxuries, the
community benefits. The money goes into houses and
lots, into automobiles, books, furniture, pianos, cloth-
ing, into everything, in fact, that modern man needs
for his comfort and happiness. Thus while he is help-
ing himself, he is also helping the merchants and the
tradesmen of the city. He is adding to his own and
the community's resources.

The financial gain to a city from the war-gardening
enterprise is strikingly revealed by figures on the
amount of produce raised. A few cases will be illus-
trative. For instance, Indianapolis estimated the value
of its war-garden crop in 1918 at $1,473,165, an in-
crease of more than $600,000 over the previous year.
Denver placed its yield at $2,500,000 and Los Ange-
les at $1,000,000. The figures for a few other cities
were as follows: Minneapolis, $1,750,000; Washing-
ton, District of Columbia, $1,396,500; Grand Rapids,
Michigan, $900,000; Salt Lake City, Utah, $750,000;

MIDST TOWERING SKYSCRAPERS

In Bryant Park, New York, in the heart of the nation's throbbing metropolis, there was planted

a demonstration war garden, and a little garden house was erected which served as a

distributing center for literature of the National War Garden Commission. Formal

ceremonies were held at the time of the dedication of the building.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 99

Louisville, Kentucky, $750,000; Worcester, Massa-
chusetts, $750,000; Oklahoma City, Oklahoma, $500,-
ooo; Dallas, Texas, $300,000; Scranton, Pennsylvania,
$450,000; Rochester, New York, $350,000; Pittsburgh,
Pennsylvania, $250,000; Burlington, Iowa, $250,000;
Newark, New Jersey, $160,000; New Orleans, Louisiana,
$125,000; Atlanta, Georgia, $100,000.

Another gain which comes to a city from war gar-
dening is the improvement in the appearance of the
place; and added beauty means added worth. The
poet who sang that "a thing of beauty is a joy for-
ever" might have written with equal truthfulness —
although, of course, we do not expect the minds of
poets to run in such practical and commercial channels
— that it is also a " thing of value forever. " In the long
run those improvements which add to the beauty of
a city or community add also to its material prosperity
and to its civic progress.

For this reason chambers of commerce and other trade
organizations do good service for their communities
when they urge the cleaning-up of all vacant lots and
open spaces and their conversion into gardens. Travel-
ers have noted how much better many towns looked
during the past year or two because of the fact that
most of the back yards "fronting" on the railroad tracks
have been improved into clean, well-kept vegetable
plots. The average back yard is bare of flowers, as
these are reserved for the place of honor in front
of the house; and so a vegetable garden in the space
at the rear is highly to be commended as an attraction

ioo THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

to the place. A person renting or buying a piece of
property which displays a healthy and prosperous-
looking garden is immediately put into a more favor-
able frame of mind by the sight of this growing food
and is willing to pay more for the place.

As to the vacant lots which straggled and scrambled
along many city streets before the days of war gardens,
nothing more than a mere statement of fact is neces-
sary to convince any one that the removal of these
"sore spots" is advantageous in many ways. These
barren lands, with their unsightly briars and weeds,
their ugly ash-heaps and piles of litter, detracted not
only frdm the appearance but from the commercial
value of all the surrounding property.

In hundreds of cases it was not realized until an ac-
tual enumeration was made, how many acres of such
unused land there were in a city. There was scarcely
a town of any size which did not contain a total of
hundreds of acres of such idle, useless land. With
little effort these unsightly lots can be converted into
rich gardens to help feed the city and the nation. To
clean up all such places, therefore, and to put them to
profitable use, is a standing advertisement for the city.
Furthermore, the example of one city leads to a dupli-
cation of the good work elsewhere and an effort to
improve on it. Thus the gain of one is the gain of all.
The city benefits, the state benefits, the nation benefits.

Cleveland surpassed itself in war gardening. As a
result of the very active campaign conducted there
under the auspices of the war garden committee, a

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 101

sub-committee of the mayor's advisory war committee,
40,000 war gardens were planted in 1918. The city had
set out to make it 25,000 but went far beyond this
figure. George A. Schneider, chairman of the commit-
tee, mapped out a broad and comprehensive campaign
which resulted in a splendid record. Carl F. Knirk,
garden director, was untiring in his efforts to make the
work a complete success. A survey was made of every
vacant lot in the city and its suburbs, with high-
school boys aiding in this collection of data in their
respective districts. Six paid instructors were engaged
and each placed in charge of a certain district. Three
tractor plows prepared the ground in the larger tracts.
Other agencies cooperated in the movement. These
included women's clubs, schools, business houses, and
manufacturing concerns. Western Reserve Univer-
sity introduced a course in home gardening and it was
opened to some of the garden clubs and women inter-
ested in the work. Many of the industrial plants
provided land for their employes and hundreds of fine
gardens were the result. The companies also encour-
aged their men in the conservation of their garden
products. Thousands of the Commission's war vege-
table gardening and canning and drying books were
distributed to the city's home food growers through the
Cleveland Public Library and the Cleveland Public
Schools and through the Cleveland Trust Company,
the Citizens Savings and Trust Company, the Superior
Savings and Trust Company, the Guardian Savings and
Trust Company, and other public-spirited institutions.

102 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

Even a beautiful city park system loses none of its
charm when a part of it is turned to utilitarian purposes.
Historic Boston Common was none the less attractive
to the passer-by during the season of 1918 because a
fine demonstration war garden was growing at one
side of it. Even when the necessities of war do not
make it such an important and desirable prospect, a
trim and well-cultivated series of vegetable plots such
as displayed their patriotic beauty there, would not
detract from the natural beauty of the landscape.

Potomac Park, in the shadow of the tall and stately
Washington Monument, was a constant source of
pleasure to the thousands of automobilists who sped
along the river driveway. In the afternoon and twi-
light the sight of hundreds of war gardeners cultivat-
ing their vegetable patches in sight of the White House
and the majestic dome of the Capitol was a picture
never to be forgotten. Down at the lower end of the
Chesapeake Bay near where busy transports were
loading their precious human freight and their supplies
for France, the Commission on Beautifying the City of
Norfolk took charge of the war-garden campaign and
conducted it to a successful conclusion, adding more
than $200,000 worth of vegetables to the food wealth
of that rich truck-growing section of the country.

In New York City an extremely interesting war
garden was growing in Bryant Park. There in the
heart of the great metropolis, shaded by over-towering
sky-scrapers and beside the majestic public library,
a small war garden spoke its message to the world.
This demonstration plot was under the direction of

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 103

A. N. Gitterman, chairman of the war garden com-
mittee of the Department of Parks for the Borough of
Manhattan. The little garden-house which stood there
was dedicated in the spring of 1918, and from this
center were distributed large quantities of the National
War Garden Commission's books and other literature
to help the "city farmers" of Greater New York. The
work of this garden, like that of the millions of other
war gardens throughout the country, was helping to
keep the light burning on the Statue of Liberty at
the entrance of thi's great harbor of a free country.

In his report at the end of the season to William F.
Grell, Park Commissioner of the Borough of Manhat-
tan, Mr. Gitterman said:

We maintained two demonstration gardens, one at
Union Square, Fourteenth Street and Broadway, and
the other at Bryant Park, Forty-Second Street and
Sixth Avenue, where headquarters are maintained in a
model garden-house which was donated to the city by
the National War Garden Commission of Washington.
This garden has been a great success from its dedication
when President Pack turned the first spade of earth in
this most valuable garden-plot in the world.

Intensive gardening was here profitably demonstrated
as is shown by the results achieved in the limited area
allotted to each variety. Small blackboards explained
each operation in the little garden when the supervisor
was working, planting, weeding, cultivating, thinning,
spraying, or picking. In addition, information in detail
was given on the special bulletin-board concerning in-
sects and their control, weeds and their relation to agri-
culture, spraying formulae, seed varieties, plant diseases,
and other garden data of interest to the war gardener.

104 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

In the Borough of Manhattan there was an increase,
according to the report, of seventy per cent, in the war-
gardening activities of 1918 as compared with the year
preceding. In 1919 it is expected that every available
vacant lot will be planted.

More than one hundred and sixty loads of manure
were furnished during the season of 1918 and delivered
to the gardens from the various riding academies near
Central Park.

The demonstration garden in Union Square had soil
but a foot in depth over the subway roof and this served
to impress upon the minds of pessimistic owners of
vacant land the value of cultivation even under a
handicap, as the results obtained from this one foot
of soil were considerable.

A constant stream of visitors recorded their names
and addresses in the guest-book at the little garden-
house in Bryant Park. People from almost every city
in the United States and a great number from European
countries inspected the place.

Cities, as well as individuals, can entertain angels
unaware, and many a community that encouraged
war gardening purely as a patriotic measure, has found
that city farming is a paying as well as a patriotic
activity. Bread cast upon the waters, in the form of
gardening efforts to help a famishing world, has re-
turned after many days as a rich reward in increased
civic wealth and betterment. Decidedly, war gardens
are an asset to any city.

CHAPTER XII
THE PART PLAYED BY DAYLIGHT SAVING

How " CITY FARMERS " WERE ENABLED TO TAKE TIME BY THE FORELOCK

BECAUSE of the Daylight Saving Law war gar-
dens added far more to the nation's food supply
in the season of 1918 than would have been pos-
sible otherwise. This law was in operation during seven
months of the year, from the last Sunday in March
until the last Sunday in October. The impetus which
this gave to the movement and the material gain re-
sulting therefrom were almost inestimable. That the
measure increased by many millions of dollars the
value of the food grown is undoubted.

An idea of what this extra hour of daylight meant
to the war gardeners of the country may be gathered
from the actual amount of working time it presented
as a free gift to the home food producers. This extra
hour given each afternoon to the war gardener meant
a total of 182 hours during seven months of twenty-
six working days each. Multiplying this figure by
the number of war gardeners in the United States —
5,285,000 — it gives the stupendous aggregate of
961,870,000 hours of time, or 329,407 years of eight-
hour days.

More than 300,000 years were thus added to this
one industry alone by a single piece of legislation, laws

similar to which had been adopted by fifteen other

105

io6 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

countries before the United States followed their ex-
ample in the spring of 1918.

To secure the passage of the Daylight Saving Law
the National War Garden Commission used its in-
fluence, and many of the leaders in the war-garden
movement throughout the country urged upon Con-
gress the vital need and the value of this statute. The
congressional committee which had the measure in
charge showed its realization of the effect the law would
have on gardening by mentioning it most prominently
in its report. This document said in part:

In view of the increased food production which will
be brought about under the bill, the comfort and the
convenience which it will bring to laborers and the
public generally, and the saving of expenses, especially
relating to light and fuel, it is believed by our committee
that the measure should be enacted.

That the measure accomplished all that was expected
of it, and was of inestimable value in helping the United
States in its gigantic war preparations, is the testimony
of the nation. In a statement on the subject at the
conclusion of the first year's operation of the law, Sen-
ator Calder of New York, author of the bill, called
particular attention to its benefit to war gardeners.
He said:

The Daylight Saving Law which became effective on
the last Sunday in March has more than fulfilled the
prophecies of its advocates. It has really turned one
hour of night into day. People live by custom. They
rise in the morning by the clock; they eat their meals

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 107

by the clock, and go to bed by the clock, so that
during the time this law has been in operation a vast
majority of the people of this country have been awake
one hour more of daylight and asleep one hour more of
dark than they were formerly. This additional hour of
daylight has been most helpful to the men, women, and
children of the nation who have taken advantage of it
to plant war gardens, thereby not only relieving the
strain upon the farm but to a very considerable degree
tending toward economy in family expenditures. It
has also saved in gas and electric bills not less than ten
per cent, of the money formerly spent for this purpose.
In addition, it has saved during its seven months of
operation this year at least one million tons of coal.
It has afforded in the construction of cantonments for
our army, in the manufacture of munitions and war
supplies of every character, and in the building of ships
one hour more of daylight for the men engaged in these
industries.

It is a universal practice for working men and women
to begin their day's labor at eight o'clock and in some
industries at seven o'clock in the morning. They can-
not be induced to work before seven o'clock, but, with
the long evening produced by this law, those who labor
have been induced to work additional hours at night
where the exigencies of the occasion demanded it. With-
out question this bill has been most helpful in the great
war work in which this nation was engaged.

The Daylight Saving Law will be in effect again in
1919 and each succeeding year unless it is revoked by
further legislation, for the bill as passed provided that
"at two o'clock antemeridian of the last Sunday in
March of each year the standard time of each zone

io8 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

shall be advanced one hour, and at two o'clock ante-
meridian of the last Sunday in October in each year
the standard time of the zone shall, by the retarding
of one hour, be returned to the mean astronomical time
of the degree of longitude governing said zone." Its
benefits, therefore, will continue, and as the number of
home food producers increases the resulting gain will
be greater.

CHAPTER XIII
THE FUTURE OF WAR GARDENING

THE FRUITS OF PEACE TO SPRING FROM THE SEEDS OF VICTORY

COMING events, we are told, cast their shadows
before. Among the prophetic shadows now hov-
ering over us is a finger of cloud which points to
vital changes in the business of feeding the world. In-
deed, these changes are already taking place. In part
they have taken place, but many of us, being of those
who have eyes yet do not see, are still unaware that the
old order has changed and that the new order of things
has come to pass.

No other single occupation born of the war has
affected a greater number of people than has gardening.
Starting from a mere nothing before the United States
entered the war, this form of service grew in less than
two years into a new occupation, which numbered its
followers by the millions and, in the number of people
employed, exceeded any other branch of gainful occu-
pation with the single exception of actual farming.

The fact that such a vast number of American citi-
zens took up this work shows that they appreciated
the merit of it, and this is one of the reasons for the
confident prediction that war gardening has come to
stay. It is something that the world will not willingly
let die. Home food production will continue because

it has been found worth while; and, like other things

109

i io THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

which this war has demonstrated to be of value and
benefit to mankind, it will last.

War gardening will permanently establish itself be-
cause its peace-time value will fully equal its war-time
worth. This will be true at all times, but more partic-
ularly during the first five or ten years of the great
reconstruction period. During that period the matter
of food production will be of the most pressing im-
portance. It will be on a par with many of the other
enormous reconstruction problems which face the world.
It will require the continued application of broad
thought and effort. There will be no decrease in the
demand for foo,d; in fact that demand will really be
greater, much greater, than it was during the days of
actual conflict.

This will be true because the coming of peace means
the restoration of the freedom of the seas, and freedom
of the seas means a restored commerce. German sav-
agery and the frightfulness of unrestrained subma-
rine warfare have largely driven the world's ordinary
commerce from the seas; and much of that commerce
was traffic in foodstuffs. For decades, even centuries,
Europe has been dependent upon the remainder of the
world for food to eke out its own inadequate supplies.
Before the war, for example, England, according to
the United States Food Administration, produced but
one-fifth of her own foodstuffs, while France raised one-
half of hers, and Italy produced perhaps two-thirds of
what she consumed. What was true of these nations
was true of the remainder of Europe. Unless food could

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS in

be obtained from foreign sources, hunger was sure to
visit practically every European nation. The shutting
off of commerce by German piracy has meant star-
vation, literal starvation, to multitudes of innocent
persons.

The restoration of commerce means that all these
starving nations will send their ships to America for
food, food, and still more food. The number of these
innocent neutral victims of German savagery is put
by the United States Food Administration at 180,000,-
ooo persons ! Russia, too, is disorganized and starving,
and her population numbers 160,000,000!

If figures never lie, the burden we must carry in time
of peace, as indicated by statistics, is truly appal-
ling. When the war began we were feeding our own
100,000,000 people and sending abroad a relatively
small and constantly decreasing surplus. To our 100,-
000,000 we had to add the 120,000,000 people of the
Entente allied nations. Speedily we found that our
claim that America was "the granary of the world"
was an empty boast. Merely to provide food sufficient
to enable our allies to eke out their own stores taxed
us to the utmost. Only through decreased consump-
tion, by having recourse to wheatless and meatless days,
by lessening our use of butter, milk, sugar, and other
exportable foods could we send enough to keep our
allies from actual starvation.

During the three years preceding the war, our ex-
ports of meat were just short of an average of 500,-
000,000 pounds a year. In 1917 we shipped abroad

H2 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

2,000,000,000 pounds — an increase of 400 per cent. In
the same way our exports of butter in 1913 totaled
slightly more than 3,500,000 pounds. In 1917 we ex-
ported, in round numbers, 26,750,000 pounds. Before
the war our shipments of cheese averaged 2,500,000
pounds. In 1917 they exceeded 66,000,000 pounds.
Our exportation of condensed milk jumped from
16,500,000 pounds to 259,000,000 pounds.

If the feeding of our 120,000,000 allies made such a
drain on our resources, what will happen now that
180,000,000 starving neutrals also come to us for food;
when Russia's helpless 160,000,000 thrust their hands
across the sea to us, even as the sinking Peter appealed
to Christ, saying, "Save me or I perish"? Now that
peace has come; now that Germany and Austria are
again to be admitted to the society of nations, as even-
tually they must be, how can we prevent their hungry
multitudes — another 100,000,000 souls — from also en-
tering our markets and bidding for our food supplies?
Already our former foes are begging piteously for food,
and President Wilson has assured them that their
appeals will be heeded.

$$Now that these things have come to pass, we must
feed or help to feed, not 220,000,000 people as during
the war, but an additional 440,000,000. In short, now
that the war is ended and commerce restored, we must
help to]ffeed|two-thirds of a billion of people !

Food Administrator Hoover recognized this condition
as inevitable, and when the armistice was signed he was
prepared to reckon with it. With the cessation of hos-

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 113

tilities he marshalled the food forces of America and
proceeded at once to Europe to join hands with the
food forces of England and the Continent to the end
that starvation might be prevented. As one of his
initial steps, before sailing, he asked that the war gar-
dens of America be maintained and expanded. To
the Victory Gardeners, he gave the impetus of his
urgent plea for continued effort in the cause of food
production.

The signing of the armistice caused complete and
peremptory re vision of the figures dealing with America's
obligations toward meeting the world's demand for food.
During the war we had to furnish food for France and
Belgium, but they were a France and Belgium greatly
reduced in area because of German invasion. Much
of their territory and millions of their people were
held by the enemy, shut off from their own countries
and therefore compelled to depend in part on the in-
vaders for subsistence. To-day these people are repat-
riated. Their restoration to citizenship has brought
the obligation to feed them.

While the direct burden falls on France and Belgium,
these countries must look to America for ways and
means. By all the ties of international friendship, by
a sense of gratitude for the part these countries played
in winning the war, by geographical location and by
inherent capacity to provide food, America is the one
country able to meet the call. We must also provide
for the smaller allied nations which have been under
German oppression — Serbia, Rumania, Greece, the

ii4 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

Czechs, the Jugoslavs, the starving population of North-
ern Russia and the people of other countries in Europe.

The revision of figures necessitated by the armistice
gave new meaning to America's responsibility. The
original pledge madeby theUnited States was 17,500,000
tons of food to be shipped overseas during the year.
This amount of food was 50 per cent, greater than that
which was sent the year before. With Belgium and
France liberated and millions in south central Europe
clamoring for food, the United States undertook to
increase its exports from 17,500,000 to 20,000,000 tons.

To meet the demands for food America has two
sources of supply. Food can be raised only en the
farms, by those who make a business of production, and
on the lands of our cities, towns and villages. No other
sources exist. The 40,000,000 acres of farm land under
cultivation have already probably reached their maxi-
mum of possible production for the immediate present.
It is obvious, therefore, that if we are to give the world
more food the new supply which will make this possible
must come from the only remaining source — the small
gardens in our urban and suburban communities.

The changed conditions brought into being by the
signing of the armistice caused the National War Gar-
den Commission to continue its work with increased
earnestness in 1919. The armistice caused hostilities
to be suspended but it did not increase the food supply
nor feed the hungry. The world's new demand for food
made it imperative that the Victory Gardens meet and
surpass the record of the war gardens. To do its share

Sow the seeds f Victory*

plant
raise
your own
Vegetable

RECEIVED CERTIFICATE NUMBER ONE

Mrs. Frank P. Brown, of Cincinnati, captured first honors with her war-garden display of

canned vegetables at several exhibits where she was an entrant. She was awarded the first National

Capitol Prize Certificate offered by the National War Garden Commission in 1918, to blue-ribbon

winners in this class at fairs and exhibits all over the country.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 115

toward bringing this about, to meet the urgent appeal
of Mr. Hoover and to help feed a starving continent,
the Commission realized that no relaxation was to be
considered and its campaign for 1919 was on a broader
and more vigorous scale than during the conflict.

This terrific demand for food will be not a matter of
one season only. For years and years we must con-
tinue to supply unheard-of amounts of food. Indeed
it would have been almost as easy to put Humpty
Dumpty together again as it will be to restore Europe's
agriculture. The soil of thousands of acres has liter-
ally been blown away by high explosives. Practically
all the lands in the embattled nations have decreased
in producing power through poor handling, neglect, and
lack of fertilizers during the war. And of the host of
farmers that toiled to feed Europe before the war,
millions now lie beneath the soil they tilled, and other
millions, maimed and crippled, can never again turn a
furrow or harness a horse. As long ago as 1916 the
shortage of cattle, hogs, and sheep in Europe totaled
115,000,000 head; and without livestock to produce
manures years must elapse before Europe's produc-
tion is restored to normal.

Since American farmers cannot produce all the food
needed, American gardeners must continue and extend
their merciful work of helping to supply the food needs
of the world. Instead of lessening their efforts, they will
be called upon to add as much as possible to their pro-
ductive capacity because of the additional mouths to
be fed. They are offered a new opportunity to help.

ii6 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

There is no question that the cultivators of our war
gardens, now become victory gardens, will continue
their labors.

For a decade or two before the war, there was deep
study and much discussion of the problem as to how to
check the exodus from the farm to the city; but argu-
ment and discussion availed nothing, and the exodus
continued. In the "city farmer" has been found a
partial answer to the stay-on-the-farm idea. Ambi-
tious young men and women will not remain in the
country where comforts are denied and where advan-
tages of education and social life are few; but they will
be glad to farm in the city. The victory garden has
opened the way. By this means almost every one
becomes a food producer.

Furthermore, increasing prices will make it desir-
able to the individual, and the growing demand for
food will make it desirable from the country's point
of view, that every one help to feed himself. The read-
justment which must come out of the war calls for
powers as Herculean as those it has been necessary
to put forth during the terrible struggle against "Kul-
tur." This reconstruction work calls for every bit of
man-power that can be found. It is a question not of
months but of years before this up-building is com-
pleted. In France, Belgium, Poland, Italy, Russia, and
other European countries, the rebuilding of cities and
churches, railroads and bridges, docks and roads, houses
and barns, the remaking of trench-scarred and shell-
torn farms, and many other big works, must be per-

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 117

formed. So we can look for no huge immigration after
the war to solve our labor problem, and that problem
is acute. There are no ruined cities to be rebuilt, or
devastated farms to be restored in the United States,
but there are innumerable construction tasks to be
done that have been put aside during the war.

Thousands of miles of road — to mention a single
task — will have to be completely rebuilt. The day of
the heavy motor-truck as a means of transportation
between city and city has come to stay, and for its
accommodation there must be a strengthening of roads.
This is one of the great tasks awaiting the army of
men returning from the battle-fields. The construction
of new buildings in our cities, checked by war-time
need of material and men, must be resumed and lost
time must be made up. Cities will need many improve-
ments which will keep the workers of the world busy.
In these and a hundred other ways there will be steady
call for the men released from strictly war work.

All these facts point to the increasing value of the
victory garden. It will be just as important a factor
m the life of the nation and the community after the
war as was the war garden during the conflict. The
need for gardens will last for many years; and during
that time, the value of gardening will have become so
apparent that the movement will continue indefinitely.
It will have become a habit fixed and firmly implanted
in the hearts and lives of the people of the country.

In addition to all this, gardening has been found to
be a health measure. It has been used in the rehabili-

ii8 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

tation of convalescent soldiers. Around the hospitals
in Europe, almost since the beginning of the war, vege-
table plots have furnished the means for providing easy
and pleasant outdoor work for convalescents, which
acted as a tonic to their shattered nerves and bodies.
Similarly, at the hospitals and army camps in the
United States this form of activity was employed to
help in the rebuilding of disabled and convalescing
soldiers.

In the great reconstruction work at the Walter Reed
hospital, which lies in the outskirts of the nation's
capital, a fifteen-acre war garden proved of much thera-
peutic value in the treatment of men suffering from
various diseases. In addition to helping them regain
their health and strength, gardening trained these men
for the future and equipped them to make their own
living and become valuable citizens of any community
when they should leave active service. Part of the large
war garden at Camp Dix, New Jersey, adjoined the base
hospital; and potatoes and other vegetables were grow-
ing during the season of 1918 up to the very porches on
which some of the invalids had to sit in their wheel-chairs.

Sailors as well as soldiers need fresh vegetables to
eat, but they cannot grow vegetables at sea. To over-
come this handicap a movement was started through-
out the United Kingdom to give naval men a supply of
fresh vegetables whenever they got to port. Navy
vegetable rations formerly consisted of potatoes only,
and a few dried or canned products which could be
kept a long time and stored in small space. The new

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 119

British organization soon had eight hundred branches
and collecting depots throughout the United Kingdom.
Headquarters were established in London, with Admi-
ral Lord Beresford as president. The patrons included
many prominent people, but its members ranged from
the owners of large estates, contributing regular sup-
plies weekly, to the small schoolboy with only a ten-
foot plot to cultivate. Not long after the work got
under way, 300,000 pounds of fresh vegetables and
fruits were being furnished weekly to the British navy.
In speaking of this work and its value, Rear Admiral
Lionel Halsey, third lord of the Admiralty, said:

Those associated with the Vegetable Products Com-
mittee can happily feel that this work is of priceless
value, for without a vegetable food the men of the fleet
could not have so thoroughly performed their work in
the past; nor will they be able to do so in the future
without a continuance of this splendid work as effici-
ently and as generously as in the past. Its value may
be realized when it is stated that these supplies are an
invaluable factor in keeping the men in good health
and fitness.

What is true in the case of the stalwart men of the
British navy, is true of all other members of society, of
high and low degree. There is need for vegetable food.
The body is kept in better condition if it does not de-
pend too largely on a meat diet. Victory gardening will
add greatly to the proportion of greens which will enter
into the diet of the American people.

The future of gardening, therefore, is assured. It is

120 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

such an important economic gain, and its benefits in
other ways are so numerous, that the army of home
food producers themselves will be its strongest and most
ardent champions. Both by practice and by precept
they will continue to spread the gospel of "Food F. O. B.
the Kitchen Door." Just as the army which has fought
for justice, decency, and civilization will see to it that
these principles are maintained in every part of the
world, so the soldiers of the soil in city, town, and vil-
lage, millions of whom have tested the worth of garden-
ing, will be its future champions and defenders. It is
in these ways that the seeds of victory will insure the
fruits of peace.

CHAPTER XIV
CONSERVING THE GARDEN SURPLUS

How HOUSEWIVES TURNED THEIR RESERVES INTO PRESERVES

FROM the governments of the Entente Allies and
the associated nations, whose territory girdled
the earth, came the cry for conservation. There
was need for this cry. Never in the world's history was
material of all kinds used up in such quantities. More
than once, in a three-hour preparation for a short ad-
vance, a greater number of shells had to be employed
than were fired in the entire Franco-Prussian War.
Shells are but a type. Everything was used in unheard-
of quantities. This was particularly true of food, the
basic material upon which the entire structure of vic-
tory rested. Speedily it became apparent that every-
thing possible must be saved — old cartridge cases, old
shoes, old shells, old clothes, old materials of every
sort — and particularly food. This was especially true
of food because material like old shoes or old shells
could be used repeatedly; but food once eaten was
gone forever. As the world's food supply became more
inadequate the cry for conservation grew more and
more insistent.

"Turn your reserves into preserves!" became the
order of the day among the women all over the country.
With this as their slogan they made ready by the mil-
lion to build up a second line of defense which would

121

122 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

serve as an effective bulwark against the enemy. The
call to make "Every Garden a Munition Plant" was
supplemented by the women with the motto: "Every
Kitchen a Canning Factory." Every facility that
could be found was utilized to carry on this effort.
Women's clubs everywhere urged upon their members
and others the importance of this work. Community
kitchens were opened for the convenience and assistance
of those who did not have the means or the time, at
home, to preserve all the vegetables grown in their
gardens.

It was necessary that a certain amount of informa-
tion concerning new and scientific methods of canning
be furnished with the appeals made to women to pro-
ceed with the work, so the National War Garden Com-
mission furnished precise and practical instructions.
This it did in a number of ways. A comprehensive but
concise canning and drying book was prepared by
scientific experts and printed by the Commission for
free distribution. Several million copies of this manual
were given out during the first season of the garden
campaign; and an equal number of the improved and
revised editions which were issued in 1918 and 1919.
These went to hundreds of thousands of individuals
who applied for them, to libraries, local canning clubs
and committees, chambers of commerce, and other
trade bodies, banks, and manufacturing concerns,
schools, hundreds of emergency home demonstration
agents of the United States Department of Agricul-
ture, and to state, county, and city food administrators.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 123

A series of canning lessons was prepared by the Com-
mission's experts. These were supplied to the news-
papers of the country, hundreds of which ran them as
daily instructions. With many of them illustrations
were used, showing the various steps in the cold-pack
method of canning, and giving other educational hints
in pictorial form so as to attract the eye of the home
food conserver and make the work plainer. News
stories telling what was being done along this line in
various sections of the country were published in the
daily pres,s; and large numbers of feature articles were
written and widely circulated.

To arouse further interest in the work and to encour-
age the best possible efforts, recognition was accorded
by the National War Garden Commission for excellence
of product. This was in addition to local prizes and
awards and was in the form of National Capitol Prize
Certificates which were given to the blue-ribbon or
first-prize winners at exhibits and fairs for the best
displays of canned vegetables from war gardens. With
these certificates the Commission gave money awards,
the first year in cash, and the second year in thrift
stamps.

Many large manufacturing concerns which had ex-
tended aid to their employes in planting gardens held
fairs at which the products raised were displayed and
prizes awarded in the various classes. At a number of
these the Commission's certificate constituted the grand
prize which went to the sweepstakes-wi'nner in the
canned-vegetable class. Not only did hundreds of

124 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

industrial plants, large and small, provide land for
their men, prepare it for cultivation and divide it into
small individual plots, but they also made arrange-
ments for the wives of their workers to can their sur-
plus products in kitchens set apart for the purpose and
with capable instructors placed in charge to show the
women how to obtain the best results.

The appeal to the women of the United States to
"Back Up the Cannon with the Canner" met with
loyal response. Testimony has been given by promi-
nent officials, governmental, military, and civil that the
war could not have been won without the aid of the
women. They took places left vacant by men in mu-
nition factories, on the farms, and in a hundred other
activities. It will never be possible to estimate accu-
rately the extent to which they made victory a cer-
tainty. But to no class of women is there due a greater
meed of praise than to the silent millions all over the
country who helpqd to save food. While their sisters
were working in munition factories, these women in
countless numbers were packing away "ammunition"
in jars so that the boys in France might always have
a supply. Soon after he landed in France, General
Pershing sent a message to America. It said: "Keep
the Food Coming. " The women of the country obeyed
the order. With ladles and spoons instead of bayonets,
with wash-boilers in place of tanks, and with cans and
jars as their weapons instead of hand-grenades and
bombs, they performed valiant service.

They made a fine start in 1917 when, from the

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 125

surplus products of the millions of war gardens, they
preserved something like 500,000,000 quart jars of
vegetables and fruits. In the following season they
far surpassed their previous record and, according to
estimates, stowed away approximately 1,450,000,000
quart jars of garden produce.

CHAPTER XV
COMMUNITY CONSERVATION

How AMERICAN CITIES BACKED UP THE CANNON WITH THE CANNER

ENORMOUS as was the quantity of food packed
away in cans by American housewives in the
summer of 1918, the quantity so conserved
represented only a fraction of the surplus of American
war gardens. Home canning could not begin to take
care of the excess, and therefore, in order that the
Scriptural injunction be followed and "nothing be lost,"
it was necessary to establish conservation on a com-
munity basis, just as it had been found helpful to
stimulate production through community gardening.
These organized forms of conservation took the shape
of community markets for the distribution, and com-
munity canneries for the preservation, of the garden
surplus.

Though the Commission limited its efforts along
these lines to the furnishing of instructions for conserv-
ing food, the work of the community centers for the
sale of garden surplus proved most helpful and is worthy
of mention. The usual custom was for the community
club or other organization conducting the market to
charge ten per cent, for selling the products. Many
war gardeners found the community markets an excel-
lent medium for disposing of surplus vegetables not

needed for home consumption. Purchasers, too, were
126

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 127

glad of the opportunity afforded by the community
market to secure vegetables that were fresh and choice.
One of the most prosperous and successful of these
community markets was at Oakland, California, under
the direction of Mrs. James Hamilton, the city direc-
tor of food production, who showed courage and energy
in pushing her project to success. It will be well to
let her tell something of her own story. Here is part
of what she has to say:

So far this market has been the means of saving hun-
dreds of tons of vegetables and fruits, together with
quantities of berries, eggs, chickens, pigeons, rabbits
and honey. The greater part, if not all, of the perish-
ables otherwise would have been wasted. This market
has taken care of the war-garden supplies of our city
since it was opened, together with the supplies of several
of our big growers of both fruits and vegetables. It will
be a very great means of stimulating production for
next year because the grower knows he will be given a
place where he can market his supplies advantageously.

In Brookline, Massachusetts, a community market
was established in an unused church, placed at the dis-
posal of the market committee by the trustees. Here,
on two days of each week, surplus garden products
could be brought for sale. As gardening had been stim-
ulated to the maximum there was much to be sold.
Those who wished to sell their own products were pro-
vided, at nominal rental, with individual tables. Sales
were made by the market committee for those not
wishing to sell in person. For this service a small per-

128 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

centage of the selling-price was charged. To this mar-
ket were brought products from the school-gardens, the
surplus from back-yard gardens, and the excess from
community garden-patches on great estates, where
ground had been lent by the owners for the use of per-
sons who had no garden space. Vast as was the amount
of produce that poured into the market from all these
sources, every particle of it was sold; and ordinarily the
market was sold out long before the established hour
of closing. Thus, at practically no expense, and merely
by utilizing facilities at hand, the people of Brookline
saved an enormous quantity of food that otherwise
would almost surely have gone to waste.

The women of Roselle, New Jersey, wished to es-
tablish a community market, but lacked what would
ordinarily be considered adequate facilities, until they
secured the use of a vacant lot in the town, and then
induced the town council to keep the lot clean. Here,
on given days of each week, were brought all the sur-
plus products of home gardens and even the excess of
neighboring farms which were sold to those who had
no gardens or who wished to buy products that they
could not raise in their own yards. Thus the excess of the
entire neighborhood was brought together and utilized.

At first glance Roselle, like many another small town,
had no place which seemed fitted for a community
cannery. It had a schoolhouse, however, and that
schoolhouse had a kitchen. Presto! It became a com-
munity cannery. At the community market the con-
servation committee bought from day to day such

We Can

National War Garden
Commission

WASHINGTON, B.C.

SERVICE FLAG OF THE HOME CANNER

Window hangers like this went broadcast throughout the United States and Canada. Displayed
in front windows they carried to all passers-by the message of canning activities within the
homes. The eager demand for these hangers showed the pride of the home canners in their work.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 129

vegetables as it was desired to can, and the transpor-
tation committee conveyed these products, in motor-
cars lent for the purpose, to the schoolhouse cannery,
where the women of the town did the canning. Thus
Roselle did with its might what its hands found to do —
and did it with what was available.

In similar spirit of determination the women of
Williamsport, Pennsylvania, secured the use of a church
kitchen for the summer of 1917 and there began the
conservation of community surplus. Under the lead-
ership of Mrs. John G. Reading and Mrs. H. C.
McCormick, and with the assistance of Mrs. R. F. Allen
and many other able women, this task so humbly begun
grew in size and importance until the canning system
embraced the entire county. In 1918 adequate quar-
ters were secured in the business district. Here can-
ning outfits were installed, and the women of the city
came day after day to put up the surplus from the
market and the excess products brought in by farmers.
A substantial fund had been voted by the local Com-
mittee of Safety to finance this work. Thus the women
were able to buy whatever products were brought in.
In seven other districts in the county similar work was
going on. All the canning centers were run on identical
lines and all were affiliated with the central cannery at
Williamsport. In this way scores of women throughout
the entire county were drawn into the work. Beyond
any question this conservation movement had much
to do with the remarkable community spirit exhibited
throughout the county.

130 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

Another interesting example of a community can-
nery was to be found in Salt Lake City. Recognizing
the need for food conservation, the city's women first
brought about the creation of a community market
and later established a community canning kitchen
that was run in connection with that market. The
work was carried on under the chairmanship of Mrs.
C. H. McMahon.

The cannery itself consisted of one of the large market
stalls, temporarily enclosed for the purpose and equip-
ped with a complete canning outfit. Mrs. W. F. Adams,
president of the city's federated women's clubs, was
executive head of the organization. She was on duty
daily, arriving at the cannery by 7:30 o'clock in the
morning. Each morning the market-master purchased
in the market such products as Mrs. Adams desired.
Sometimes he secured these products direct from the
neighboring farms. Occasionally fruit or vegetables
were offered to the cannery free on condition that
they be picked and taken away. In such cases troops
of Boy Scouts were utilized to do the harvesting and
motor-cars, offered for the purpose, were used to bring
the food to the cannery. In order that there might
be a constant force of women at work, that the labor
should not become irksome to any, and that the interest
be as widespread as possible, Mrs. Adams appointed six
lieutenants to look after the labor supply. Each lieu-
tenant was responsible for supplying a given number of
hands on one day of each week and each lieutenant
procured a certain number of women to pledge them-

tflU '

ACHIEVEMENT CLUB GIRLS

Post-Dispatch Photo.

These three young St. Louis girls are members of one of the Achievement Clubs'which took an

active part in many cities in teaching and spreading the doctrine of proper food

preparation and conservation. Canning of surplus vegetables and fruits

was one of their most important accomplishments.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 131

selves to work for her at the cannery on a given day
each week. In this way the supply of labor was
assured. Usually there was additional help, for all
volunteers were welcomed.

In order that the work might be done scientifically,
and the pack be uniform from day to day, everything
was done under the direction of a paid expert. Visitors
were free to come and watch operations, which were
thus a continuous demonstration of scientific canning,
and thousands of women who had come to market only
to buy products also dropped into the cannery and
learned the up-to-date methods. The educational
value of this effort was beyond computation. The
women of the entire city were reached.

One of the most interesting conservation efforts
reported to the National War Garden Commission was
that of the employes in the shop of the Carolina &
Northwestern Railway Company at Hickory, North
Carolina. So great was their enthusiasm that they
took the cylinder from an old engine and turned it
into a canning plant. They coupled up this cylinder
with the shop steam-boiler, put on a steam-gauge
and drain-cock, and inside the cylinder placed three
shelves of heavy wire to hold the jars of vegetables
and fruits. Their community canning plant was then
ready for operation.

Reports to the Commission from all parts of the
country indicated that in a great number of places
arrangements were made to preserve surplus garden
products through community canneries, and also

132 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

showed the success that attended this effort. Typical
of the spirit that animated many of these reports is a
statement in a communication from J. D. Parnell,
secretary of the Chamber of Commerce, Vernon, Texas.
Mr. Parnell wrote:

We have a community canner and are preserving
everything that we grow. We are also going outside of
our county into the communities where they are not
equipped topreserve perishable stuff and buyingsurplus.
We can it and sell it to those who have no gardens.

Home demonstration agents of the United States
Department of Agriculture, women's clubs, represen-
tatives of manufacturing concerns, gas and electric
companies, and numerous individuals cooperated in this
community canning. "The Federation of Women's
Clubs and myself cooperating will supervise the mar-
keting and the canning of the surplus products of
the gardens, " was the report to the Commission from
Miss Anna Allen, emergency home demonstration agent
at Independence, Kansas. Similar work was performed
in hundreds of places.

The success of these community canneries is indi-
cated by many reports such as one from Dallas, Texas,
which boasted of 20,000 war gardens in 1918, with 17,500
cans of vegetables preserved after the plant had been in
operation only a few weeks. This same Texas report
told of community canneries at Austin, Beaumont,
Marshall, and Corsicana. The last named was in the
Odd Fellows Hall and was operated by the children.
During the first week of its existence the community

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 133

cannery at Temple, where there were 5,000 war gardens,
took care of one ton of black-eyed peas. The cannery
at Beaumont had a capacity of 500 cans daily.

Thus, in hundreds of community canneries the
country over, thousands of women were saving the
excess food upon which the fate of democracy rested,
and practicing, as they canned, democracy itself.

CHAPTER XVI
CONSERVATION BY DRYING

How AMERICAN HOUSEWIVES MADE IT HOT FOR THE KAISER

ARIE ANTOINETTE'S milliner once remarked
that there is nothing new except what is
forgotten. One of the "new" methods of food
conservation practiced by the women of America
during the war was that of drying food. To most of
them the process was an absolute novelty, yet it is as
old as civilization itself. It is merely one of those
practices so long out of use as to be forgotten.

Most of us are familiar with dried apples and the
evaporated fruits of California, but there our knowl-
edge ends. To most of us it comes as a distinct
surprise, almost as a shock, to learn that practically all
vegetables and fruits can be preserved for future use
by drying. Certainly it was a great surprise to most of
the housewives of America when they were asked to
conserve food, not only by canning, with even which
process many were only slightly acquainted, but also
by drying, a method practically unheard of.

Drying is both economical and simple as a method
of preserving food. It requires no elaborate or costly
apparatus. The finished product can be kept in any
sort of containers that are clean; whereas in canning
expensive glass receptacles must be purchased. Dried
foods are compact, thus saving space in storing and
134

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 135

shipping. The original quality and flavor of the dried
product is largely retained; and when dried foods are
restored by proper soaking, they can hardly be dis-
tinguished from fresh vegetables and fruits.

Specifically, dried food products are products free
from moisture. The words "dried" and "drying" are
applied in general to foods preserved in a compara-
tively water-free state, without regard to the method of
drying employed. Technically, the term "dried" as
applied to food products means products that are dried
by exposure to the heat of the sun; "evaporating"
is drying by artificial heat; "dehydrating" is drying by
artificial air blast, the process often including the appli-
cation of artificial heat as well.

The duration of the drying process varies with the
method chosen, the size and degree of compactness of
the material to be dried, the variety of the product,
the range of temperature, and the humidity of the at-
mosphere. Two hours is sufficient time to dry some
products by evaporation or dehydration. Other prod-
ucts may require from one to several days for sun-
drying.

Practically all fruits and vegetables, it was early
found, can be dried successfully so far as the "keeping"
quality is concerned. It was discovered, however, that
many dried vegetables were unpalatable when even-
tually cooked and served. Enzymic action in the raw
products, as well as bacterial action, caused chemical
changes which not only affected the flavor of dried
food but to some extent also affected its wholesomeness.

136 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

The problem thus arose as to how this disadvantage
could be overcome.

Cooking was tried. Complete cooking, parboiling,
and even partial cooking were employed with various
vegetables, until it was found that a certain minimum
period of boiling water treatment was favorable to both
the wholesomeness and the flavor of dried products.

This treatment, which varies in time for different
products, has been accepted as an essential part of the
proper drying of vegetables. It is called "blancfiThg."
By it the protoplasm is killed and enzymic action stop-
ped. There is a thorough cleansing and a destruction
of many bacteria. Furthermore the flow of coloring
matter is started, and the color of the product thus
accentuated. The fibers are loosened and softened and
a condition created which facilitates the giving-off of
moisture in the drying process.

In "cooking" food, heat is usually applied long
enough to alter the nature of certain materials, such as
starch, rendering them digestible. Blanching should
not be confused with cooking as it differs both in pur-
pose and effect. It is a preparatory process by which
the wholesomeness and flavor of a sound product are
retained through the temporary stoppage of chemical
changes due to agencies present and to bacterial ac-
tion when raw flesh is exposed to the air. The drying
process should follow at once, and be done as rapidly as
possible, with due attention to the proper tempera-
tures, which range from 1 15° to 175° F. according to the
products handled.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 137

If products are not dried sufficiently, the moisture
retained makes a medium for the development of bac-
teria and mold, and .spoilage occurs. How much water
to extract becomes therefore, an important considera-
tion. The abundant sugar present in most fruits acts
as a preservative and therefore it is not necessary that
they be so dry as vegetables. A rational method of
determining the right degree of drying for the finished
stage is by the texture of the products. Most vegeta-
bles should be rather brittle when taken from the drier,
and fruits should be leathery and pliable. One method
of determining whether fruit is dry enough is to squeeze
a handful, and if the fruit separates when the hand is
opened, it is dry enough. Another way is to squeeze a
single piece; if no moisture comes to the surface the
piece is sufficiently dry. Berries are dry enough if they
stick to the hand but do not crush when pressed.

There is considerable shrinkage in bulk and weight
when products are dried. The reduction in weight is in
direct proportion to the amount of moisture lost, but the
reduction in bulk varies with both the structure of the
product and the amount of water removed. In general
terms it may be said that foods, in drying, are reduced
to a bulk ranging from one-third to one-fifth of their
original volume and to a weight from one-sixth to one-
twelfth of the weight of the fresh material.

After the Boer War, considerable surplus dried vege-
table material, no longer needed for the English army,
was put into barrels and stored away. The barrels
were opened during the European war and the contents

138 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

satisfactorily used for army rations. Products thus
kept unchanged in quality and flavor for eighteen years
might reasonably be supposed to keep well almost
indefinitely.

Naturally enough, most of the conservation of food
so far accomplished through drying has been done by
housewives in their homes.

Home drying is profitable both to the household and
the nation; but if a neighborhood or community pools
its expenditures for equipment and works as a unit, a
larger amount of material may be dried with greater
convenience and a considerable saving of labor, time,
and fuel. A bigger drier than could be put into a home
kitchen can be SQ£ up in a schoolhouse, parish house,
clubhouse, or other accessible place for common use in
drying; and definite hours of duty can be assigned to
different persons. Such, in general, is the plan of neigh-
borhood or community drying. Details as to how much
material each person may bring at one time, just when
such material shall be brought, and who shall be on
duty to regulate the drier, should be worked out by a
small committee, preferably of three persons.

Each woman should prepare her own products and
leave in good order the utensils she has used. When
people are novices at drying it is advisable to hire a paid
expert for a short time, and if the arrangement for a
common drier is to cover the entire community, the
continuous services of at least one salaried person are
necessary. Some one is also required to do regular
cleaning in the quarters used. This may require an

A MONTANA PRIZE CANNER

Although she had never done any gardening or canning before, Irene McMahon, a twelve-year-
old girl of Missoula, Montana, won the first award for the products she conserved
and exhibited. She received a National Capitol Prize Certificate
from the National War Garden Commission.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 139

hour a day, once or twice a week, or all day every day,
according to the needs.

Our country is calling upon the women of America
to do their utmost to preserve for winter use all garden,
orchard and market surplus. In millions of homes
prompt action has been taken for home canning and
drying. There remains, in addition, an enormous sur-
plus still uncared for. The solution of the problem is to
be found in community drying, which is simply organ-
ized drying, not for commercial profit, but for mutual
aid and facility in the conservation of vegetables and
fruit for home use.

How can a community drier best be started ? If three
to six or eight families are to benefit, it will be neces-
sary to secure a room with running water in or near it.
A space is necessary for conditioning, and, provided it
is not damp, the same room or one near by may be
used. Space and facilities for blanching vegetables are
essential, so that chimney, gas or electric connection is
also needed. Such a place can doubtless be found in
the home of one of the members.

An evaporator can be purchased for from $25.00 to
$50.00. A stove to supply heat to the evaporator is
needed and very probably would not have to be bought.
A home-made dehydrator can be readily devised and is
practical where rates for electricity are low. A motor-
fan running on kerosene or aclohol is also on the market.
Hot air combined with the fan makes the drying more
rapid. Drying by air blast without heat is satisfactory
in dry climates. Where the atmosphere is humid, the

140 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

process takes a long time and the addition of heat is
desirable.

A slicer for vegetables costs £1.50 or more, according
to size. Tables and other utensils may be collected
from the different households. White oilcloth for ta-
bles, cheese-cloth for use in protecting material from
insects and dust, and pasteboard cartons for containers
of dried products would make necessary slight extra
purchases. Butter containers are useful for holding
dried products, as are also baking-powder cans and
similar covered tins.

If an entire community is to be organized, it will be
necessary to ascertain how many families will use the
community plant and approximately how much mate-
rial will be dried daily. These things determined, a
drier can be chosen intelligently. Because of its usual
hot-air blast, which dries products more quickly than
they can be dried by the evaporating process, a dehy-
drator is often preferable. The cost of a satisfactory
dehydrator may be put at $1,000 to $2,500. A home-
made outfit may be constructed at considerably less
expense. Carpenters and men installing heating appa-
ratus will usually be glad to furnish estimates of cost,
if supplied with a description of the apparatus desired.

Mr. C. W. Pugsley* devised a successful community
plant, which was first used at Lincoln, Nebraska. His
method is dehydration minus heat, which system is

* For dimensions and detailed directions, see "A Successful
Community Drying Plant," by C. W. Pugsley, Farmers* Bulletin
916, United States Department of Agriculture.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 141

serviceable in dry climates. The cost of an outfit like
this would be $250 or more according to the local cost of
materials and labor. Twelve of these driers have been
in successful operation. Instead of air being forced
over the products, suction is used, the theory being that
the drying is quickened by this reversal of the air blast.

Illustrations, descriptions, and prices of several
standard ready-made evaporators and dehydrators
should be obtained from dealers or manufacturers.
From technical training institutions information can
be obtained as to the cost of procuring persons for
instruction and management to take charge of a drying
plant. In making an estimate of funds needed there
should be included also service for cleaning, cost of
operation of stove, fan, or both, and $25.00 to $30.00
for accessory equipment. It should be clear to all con-
cerned that a major part of the expenditure would
represent investment for an indefinite number of sea-
sons, and should not be considered in terms of one season.

The committee or individual promoter, with the esti-
mate in hand, may then consider how best to finance
the matter. The local Chamber of Commerce or a
leading women's club is a suitable organization to back
a movement for organized food conservation. Such
emergency activities should be as far as possible con-
ducted by committees of established central bodies.
The unnecessary multiplication of associations is a
handicap to a community.

Adequate organization, as well as backing is neces-
sary. It is as essential to have the right executive

142 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

machinery as to have the proper material facilities.
There should be an equipment committee, a publicity
committee, a workers' committee, a food supplies
committee, and an executive committee composed of
the chairman of these. All committees should meet at
least once a month. In charge of the drying plant there
should be a man or a woman of technical training and
experience. There should be a checker to keep account
of products, and a book-keeper. Volunteer service is
usually obtainable for these duties. Women who help to
prepare and dry extra products which are sent in as
general surplus should be paid by the hour. Such
payment should be in products rather than in money,
and the value of the products should be based upon
market prices of fresh products plus the cost of drying,
including labor.

The location is important. It should be central and
suitable. School kitchens are usually available, are
fitted with various conveniences, and are rarely used
during the summer. Church kitchens are sometimes
offered, but their use sometimes interferes with other
activities on the social side of church work which it may
not be wise to interrupt. Empty stores or space in a
gas or electric company's quarters are good possibilities.

The schoolhouse is usually the most economic choice.
In fact, parts of the house itself may frequently be
converted into dehydrators. When viewed merely
from a local standpoint, it may seem advisable simply
to buy a ready-made dehydrator; but considering the
number of communities in the whole country, and the

FOOD GOES WITH THE FLAG

The American flag has meant food to Belgium and other countries. In this picture is shown

Walter Wolski, an employe of the Inland Steel Company, of South Chicago, who had the

prize garden among the employes at the plant. He raised produce worth

close to $200 and his wife put up more than 200 cans of vegetables.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 143

need for drying operations in each one, it is uneconomic
to buy. There are not enough dehydrators made to dry
the surplus home products of the country; shortage of
man-power renders an adequate development of their
manufacture difficult, not to say impossible.

Mr. W. L. Feisher writes in the Journal of American
Society of Heating and Ventilating Engineers, April, 1918 :

I claim that in our newer schools and in our public
buildings throughout the country, those things that are
required for the drying of food products are already at
hand, and that the walls of the rooms, or the corridors
in these buildings, eliminate the necessity of a great
part of the kilns themselves, and that with very little
ingenuity, the heating and ventilating systems in our
schools and public buildings can be turned into dehy-
drating plants in quick order. As to the actual applica-
tion of my idea, in most of our schools the blowers are
located in the basements and the main ducts leading
from these blowers are run through the corridors of the
basements in the various uptakes. It is my idea that
these basement corridors can be turned into tunnel
driers by means of wooden partitions, -or where the cor-
ridors are narrow enough, only cut-offs and divisions
are essential. The heated air can then be blown into
one end of the corridors and the duct blanked off with
a damper beyond this outlet. At the far end of the
corridor or tunnel, another damper can be placed and
an inlet located at this point, with a connection taken
from a point beyond the first damper back into the fan
so that recirculation from the fan end of the tunnel can
be obtained. In this way, we can create a very fair
tunnel drier, which according to commercial practice,
is the very best and most economical drier built.

144 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

It has ever been true that distance lends enchant-
ment to view. Only the near at hand and the familiar
seem mean and commonplace. To use what we already
possess often seems both foolish and useless. Yet it was
by using the five loaves and two fishes from their own
pouches that the disciples fed the multitude, and many
another miracle has been performed by utilizing what
is already at hand. In organizing community driers
it will usually be found that all the facilities needed
already exist if only we have the vision to see them.
Existing organizations, existing buildings, existing appa-
ratus, and the advice and assistance of local carpenters,
plumbers and other workmen will provide the essen-
tials for a successful community drier in almost any city
or town. "Use what you have" is a good motto for
those about to organize a community drier.

CHAPTER XVII

WHY WE SHOULD USE DRIED FOODS
THE WAR-TIME NEED OF "MULTUM IN PARVO"

NECESSITY is said to be the mother of inven-
tion; and one of the children to whom Necessity
has had to give birth during the American
industrial development of the last half-century, and the
rapid growth of our cities, was an adequate system of
storing up food for winter use and of distributing the
food so preserved. It is only within recent years that
fresh, succulent vegetables have been obtainable in
winter time; and for most people the cost of these is
absolutely prohibitive. At first the canning of food
products met the needs of the situation, and the last
score or two of years have witnessed an incredible
development of commercial canning and distribution
of food products.

The continued development of our cities with their
teeming populations, and particularly the necessities
of war time, with their demands for multum in parvo
have made imperative a still further advance in the
matter of food conservation and distribution. This is
particularly true at this time because ahead of us we
can distinctly see the lean years yawn, even as Pharaoh
beheld the hungry kine in his dream.

History is said to repeat itself; and assuredly we have
witnessed an historic repetition in the creation of a
food administrator to watch over our stores, even as

10 145

146 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

Joseph was appointed to prepare against the lean years
that overtook the dwellers along the Nile. Joseph, rep-
resenting autocracy, took the task into his own hands.
Mr. Hoover, acting for democracy, asked us to do the
job ourselves. Both cut the Gordian knot of their per-
plexity in much the same way. Joseph dried the excess
corn and stored it in his granaries. Mr. Hoover asked
us to can and dry our garden surplus. In each case
food conservation won the day. Indeed, so close is the
parallel between events in Joseph's day and ours, that
no more accurate description of what is doing in the
world to-day can be found than the Scriptural recita-
tion of occurrences along the Nile: "The dearth was
in all lands; but in all the land of Egypt there was
bread. . . . And all countries came into Egypt to
Joseph for to buy corn."

Even so all countries are coming to America to secure
wheat and meat, and particularly fats. Here occurs the
feature that diiferentiates present-day conditions from
those of Joseph's time. Joseph's customers could come
to him on dry land; but a mighty ocean, three thousand
miles wide, lies between America and her starving cus-
tomers. Before they can get food they must have
ships. Even that mighty tonnage pictured in Lloyd
George's phrase, "Ships, ships, and still more ships,"
can hardly transport the food fast enough to save the
starving world from starvation. Dean Swift called for
benedictions upon the head of him who made two blades
of grass or two ears of corn to grow where only one
had grown before. To-day, he might add to his list of

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 147

those who deserve well of mankind those who can trans-
port two tons of food where only one was transported
before. In effect that is what is made possible by the
preservation of food through drying, for in drying, foods
lose both bulk and weight.

This reduction in weight of dried vegetables and
fruits ranges from five-sixths to eleven-twelfths with
even greater reduction in some cases. A California
operator furnishes these figures for shrinkage: Pota-
toes, about six to one; cabbage, about twenty to one;
tomatoes, about twenty to one; spinach, about eighteen
to one; turnips, fourteen to one; carrots, about nine to
one. Less than three pounds of dried tomatoes, for in-
stance, are equivalent to sixty pounds of canned toma-
toes. Not only are the products much shrunken, when
taken from the drier, but they may be still more com-
pressed in packing so that the bulk is further lessened.
This reduction in weight also lowers transportation
costs. A shipping incident serves to illustrate clearly
the economy involved. Fifty pounds of fresh Brussels
sprouts were shipped in the winter of 1917-18 by ex-
press from California to an eastern point at twelve
cents a pound. Adding to this cost of $6.00 the cost of
shipping with the vegetables one hundred pounds of
ice at twelve cents a pound, there was a total transpor-
tation charge of $18.00. The equivalent of these fifty
pounds of fresh Brussels sprouts, namely three pounds
of dried products, which required no ice, might have
been shipped to the same point by parcel post for thirty-
five or thirty-six cents.

148 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

With such an average reduction in bulk, the space
required for transportation and storage is far less than
that required for either fresh or canned products. In
certain instances the reduction is very great. It varies
with the percentage of water in fresh products. One
carload of dried tomatoes, for example, is equivalent to
thirty carloads of canned tomatoes.

Especially are dried products adapted for our military
camps, fleets, and overseas fighting force. Army officials
estimate that two men are needed daily to prepare
potatoes and other vegetables for every one hundred
soldiers. Dried vegetables are already prepared and
are ready to cook, after soaking in water. In an army
of 2,000,000 men their use would release nearly
40,000 men for other tasks. As the original prepara-
tion of vegetables for drying is done largely by simple
and inexpensive machinery, there is thus a tremendous
saving of man-power. The shrinkage in bulk makes
dried products acceptable and fitting naval stores, and
trans-ocean freight.

Germany's stores of dried vegetables greatly helped
her in carrying on the war. During the last year of
which the United States government has any official
record, Germany dried, in potatoes alone, more than
twice the entire quantity raised in this country. She
more than doubled the number of her plants after start-
ing the war, and has now more than two thousand.
There are in Germany fifty-six firms supplying complete
drying apparatus, and thirty-seven other firms which
supply auxiliary machines and parts. The drying is

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 149

applied to vegetables chiefly, only about twenty-two
plants being for milk-drying.

Despite all these facts one finds practically no dried
vegetables for sale at retail in America, and only a lim-
ited amount of dried fruit. Outside of government
contracts there has been and is little or no market for
dried products. The National War Garden Commission
has inquired carefully into the matter, and has corre-
sponded with most of the commercial drying concerns
in the country. One and all report that, aside from
contracts with the War Department, they have practi-
cally no market for their products.

It is highly desirable that markets for dried foods be
created and speedily. The food situation in the world
is to-day more critical than it was at any time during
the war. The task of feeding themselves has taxed to
the utmost the United States and her co-belligerents.
Now peace imposes upon these defenders of civilization
a task that is simply appalling. German submarine
warfare reduced to actual starvation the 180,000,000
people in the neutral nations of Europe. Beyond ques-
tion we must rescue these unfortunates from starva-
tion, by sharing with them. It is apparent, too, that
our responsibility does not end there. Austria and the
new nations which were formerly a part of that country
together with Bulgaria, Turkey, and Russia, are also
starving. If we are to have lasting peace in the world,
if we are to have stable governments and the settled
conditions of existence, which alone make progress
possible — in short, if we are to make safe that condition

150 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

of democracy for which we have fought, these people
must be fed.

"Hunger," said Robinson Crusoe," knows no friend,
no relation, no justice, no right, and therefore is re-
morseless and capable of no compassion. " Hunger will
endanger the peace of any community or nation. How-
ever we may feel toward our former enemies, the best
good of the world, including America, demands that
they have enough to eat. Otherwise there can be no
settled peace, no progress, no reconstruction. Fate has
placed largely upon American shoulders the burden of
helping the world's hunger over the critical years that
lie immediately before us.

This being the case, we must have conservation, con-
servation, and still more conservation. We must pro-
duce more food than ever before and conserve every
ounce produced. As much as possible of this excess
should be conserved in the form which best meets the
needs of the situation. For use in our homes canned
foods are highly desirable, but for shipment abroad, de-
hydrated products will be particularly needed. France
needs steel and wood and cement and a thousand other
kinds of material for the rebuilding of those vast ruins
which once were French cities. All Europe needs cat-
tle, millions of cattle, to make good the present short-
ages and needs cattle-feed by the trainload. Ships will
be needed to carry our own soldiers back home. The
demands on shipping space will be almost beyond con-
ception. Whatever saves space, therefore, is a prime
requisite in the upbuilding of a ruined world. Since

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 151

food is the first of all requirements, we should by all
means adopt and develop that method of food shipment
which calls for least space. This means that we should
greatly increase the use of dried foods.

One thing alone stands in the way of a large develop-
ment of the commercial drying industry. Aside from
government contracts, the food driers have at present
practically no market for their products. Manufac-
turer after manufacturer has so reported to the National
War Garden Commission, and practically all report
that it is difficult to create a market. The period of
government contracts is limited. Army consumption will
decrease rapidly. Faced with this situation, food driers
naturally do not care greatly to enlarge their plants.

Something must therefore be done to create a market
for dried foods. For one thing, an educational adver-
tising campaign on the part of the operators is to be
strongly urged. A western company writes of the as-
tonishment of visitors "at the simple and sanitary
method of handling the fruits or vegetables, " and their
interest "because of the very apparent economy of the
method." With this as a premise an intelligent adver-
tising campaign should quickly create a market. The
establishment of government-controlled plants and
government advertising would more quickly and thor-
oughly create markets, however, than the usual proced-
ure of private companies. Dried foods are practically
"new" foods, and the acquisition of a new food habit
by a whole people is exceedingly slow, unless the gov-
ernment systematically undertakes its establishment.

152 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

The policy of the Department of Agriculture in regard
to the use of the drying fund of $250,000 appropriated
by Congress, will be of great economic significance.
Such a fund has been strongly needed, and makes
possible enlarged and nation-wide help in the urgent
matter of drying vegetables and fruits, and placing
them in the homes of the people.

The appropriation will be used in conducting further
experiments with dehydration of food products and
carrying this knowledge to the American people. The
Secretary of Agriculture has appointed Major S. C.
Prescott, who was in the food division of the surgeon
general's office, United States army, and Mr. Lou D.
Sweet, of the United States Food Administration, as a
committee to carry out the purposes of the appropria-
tion. Major Prescott was professor of micro-biology at
the Massachusetts Institute of Technology before he
was called into war service.

When the appropriation became available, plans were
promptly made for beginning the dehydration experi-
ments. Able construction engineers and other experts
whose services could be helpful were called in .to aid in
this work which Mr. Sweet characterizes as "one of the
biggest benefits that has come to the American people
as a result of the war." Soon after the committee was
organized plans were under way looking to the construc-
tion of several dehydration plants with a capacity each
of from 60,000 to 100,000 pounds daily of raw product.

These plants are not to be built by the government
but by private corporations with which the government

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 153

will cooperate in making an economic and commercial
success of the process so as to help establish a perma-
nent market with the American people for dried foods.
In order to do this it is necessary, first to educate the
people of this country to the value and the use of such
products, and, second, to have the dehydrated foods of
such attractive appearance and palatability and of a
price so comparable with the average price of the prod-
ucts in their undried form, that they may be marketed
in paying quantities.

The federal government and the states, by conduct-
ing propaganda directed toward a general use of dried
fruits and vegetables, would be performing a needed
service toward the preservation of health, with increased
economy to all concerned. Advertising on the part of
private operators, can be done only in so far as it pays
them, and it would take several years and millions
of dollars to establish a general retail sale of dried
food articles.

Furthermore it is necessary to establish standards.
It would be a serious error to allow an inferior class of
products to be put forward at this time. The movement
would receive a decided check. Commercially dried
vegetables should contain a given percentage of mois-
ture, scientifically correct; they should be packed in
proper containers, and stored in cool places. So pre-
pared and handled, dried foods will be 100 per cent,
free from spoilage. Again, blanching is expensive in
commercial drying, and its omission necessitates very
thorough drying of products to insure their preserva-

154 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

tion. Some products, however, such as Irish potatoes,
require blanching before drying in order that the dried
product may be satisfactorily utilized. These do not
"come back" well if dried without blanching. In get-
ting these new foods on the market, therefore, it is
desirable that the government draw up strict regula-
tions, just as it has done for other foods through the
national pure food laws.

CHAPTER XVIII
THE FUTURE OF DEHYDRATION

TALL OAKS FROM LITTLE ACORNS GROW

" T~"V EHYDRATION has come to stay in this coun-
J try and, while it may still be regarded as in the
experimental stage, those who are mostfamiliar
with the problems of food production and conservation
are firm in the opinion that we are seeing only the
beginning of what is sure to expand into an enormous
and most important industry." This is the statement
of an international food expert, a man who probably
knows more on the subject of dried foods than any other
authority in the United States. It was made in a re-
cent letter to the National War Garden Commission,
by Lou D. Sweet, president of the Potato Association
of America, popularly known as the "Potato King."
Mr. Sweet was selected by Mr. Hoover as head of the
dehydration section of the United States Food Admin-
istration, and has more recently, in association with
Major S. C. Prescott, U. S. A., been enlisted in the
government development of dehydration.

While the drying of food, like some of the other lost
arts, is almost as old as the human race itself, still its
value and its importance have been brought to the fore
by the European war. Necessity has meant the devel-
opment of an industry which was well-nigh extinct.
War gardening and the home production of food have

155

156 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

called the attention of the country and its people to the
merit of drying as a form of vegetable and fruit conser-
vation. The spread of the drying idea made satisfactory
progress during the second season of war gardening in
the United States. While there was no general practice
of the method, nevertheless a fair beginning was made
which is bound to lead to widespread and more rapid
growth along this line in the future. The seed has been
sown; the home food producers of the United States
have seen the advantages offered by this means of saving
food, and more and more of them are certain topractice it.
The process is really very old, and has been used at
times by almost every people in the world. The skill
of the squaw in drying corn and the few fruits and vege-
tables which the American aborigine possessed was all
that stood between the Indian family and starvation in
the long, cold winters when game was scarce. Our
grandmothers made toothsome pumpkin pies from the
dried product, while they decorated the attic and the
kitchen with long rows of dried apples and peaches.
From the Indians they learned also to dry berries and
other small fruits. They possessed no glass jars and
few of the conveniences which every modern housewife
thinks essential; but they managed to vary the monot-
ony of the winter diet with those dried products which
cost them nothing but their work. The world has pro-
gressed rapidly in many respects during the past few
generations. Science and industry have provided many
household helps which could not be enjoyed fifty or a
hundred years ago. It is obvious, however, that some

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 157

of the habits and customs which were in vogue in the
earlier days may now be taken up again with profit.
Among these is the drying of vegetables and fruits.
Thanks to the careful study and research which have
been given to this subject, the work can now be per-
formed with greater ease and with more certainty of
success than was possible in the past.

Canning is the method which the average American
housewife uses in laying by a store of garden products
for winter consumption. A great impetus was given to
this process by the Civil War; and now it seems as if
another war were to be responsible for the introduction
to the world, on a large scale, of another food conserva-
tion process, namely that of drying. As the possibili-
ties, advantages and details of operation of this process
become better known, it will take a larger and larger
place both in the home and as a commercial proposition.

Important factors to be taken into consideration by
the victory gardener in connection with food drying,
are the saving in containers and in pantry-space. Al-
most any sort of a receptacle can be employed for the
storage of dried food. Baking-powder cans and similar
covered tins, pasteboard boxes having tight-fitting
covers, strong paper bags, and patented paraffin-paper
boxes which may be bought in quantities at slight ex-
pense, make excellent containers for this class of pre-
served food. They are not heavy and so do not require
especially strong shelves. Besides they do not occupy
much space — a thing which in many homes is at a
premium.

158 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

Scientists have pointed the way and by their careful
research have discovered methods by which potatoes
and other vegetables can be dried so that they will re-
tain all their original flavor and food value over long
periods of time and under all conditions of weather and
temperature. In going into the work on a commercial
scale and in preparing such food for large bodies of peo-
ple such as an army, where some of the products may
not be consumed for many months and where they are
likely to undergo many changes of temperature in being
transported from place to place, it is necessary, of course,
to observe scientific precision in the preparation and
packing of the goods. For home consumption no such
elaborate processes need be followed. This is why any
household may prepare with ease its own supplies of
this sort. As practiced in the home, vegetable and
fruit drying is largely a matter of following with rea-
sonable care a few simple rules. During the season of
1918 the National War Garden Commission distrib-
uted throughout the United States almost two mil-
lion copies of its canning and drying book which gave
all needed instructions. Thousands of war gardeners,
both as individuals and through community effort,
added a considerable amount to their winter store by
vegetable and fruit drying.

It was during the Boer War that dried foods were
used for the first time to any extent in the provisioning
of an army. Large quantities of these goods were ship-
ped from Canada to South Africa by the British War
Office, and the experiment proved a complete success.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 159

Some of the unused product was on hand at the begin-
ning of the European war, and when opened, was found
to be in a perfect state of preservation. The British
soldiers in South Africa could not distinguish between
the dried vegetables they were eating and the food
to which they were accustomed, and they throve
exceedingly well on it. John Hays Hammond, the inter-
nationally renowned mining engineer who took such
a prominent part in the development of the South
African territory and who is a member of the National
War Garden Commission, is familiar with this matter.
In discussing it he said:

The supplies of dried vegetables which were shipped
from Canada to South Africa during the Boer War were
found to be just as palatable, just as nutritious, as any
of the other rations. I doubt if a single one of the men
could have told the difference between this part of their
mess and the other edibles that were furnished them.
Certainly this is borne out by what a close friend of
mine, Dr. Charles L. Lindley, of Lakewood, New Jersey,
himself born in South Africa and an army surgeon dur-
ing Lord Robert's campaign there, recently told me of
the experiment. His experience with dried vegetables
confirms every claim that can be made for them as a
valuable part of a soldier's rations.

It was largely due to the successful results obtained
during the Boer War that the British War Office was led
to adopt dried vegetables as part of the soldier's supply
during the recent war. Since the outbreak of the Euro-
pean struggle the British and French governments have
purchased no less than 50,000,000 pounds of dried foods

i6o THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

from Canada alone. Following their example the
Quartermaster-General's Office of the United States
War Department prepared to make similar use of this
kind of food. In the spring of 1918 the army used
14,000,000 pounds of dehydrated goods, and later an
order was placed with American and Canadian food
driers for more than 40,000,000 pounds to be delivered
before July I, 1919.

The use of food that is recognized as a valuable army
ration and as a war-time economy, is to be encouraged
in normal times. The same reasons which made it prac-
tical and economical during the war will be arguments
in favor of its continued and increased use. Certainly
for many years to come, just how many nobody can say,
food will be a world problem. In the solution of this
problem dried food can and should play a constantly
growing part.

The expert testimony in favor of dehydration is well
summed up in a statement by David Fairchild, agricul-
tural explorer in charge of the Office of Foreign Plant
Introduction, United States Department of Agriculture.
He has made this statement:

I believe the American public should learn to use
dried vegetables, because in so doing great economies
can be brought about in this country as they have been
in Germany and Austria. The dehydrated vegetable
saves transportation of both bulky fresh vegetables and
bulky canned vegetables, not only those portions which
are actually consumed but the waste which forms so
large a part of the garbage of our cities. The dehydrated

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 161

vegetable saves tin, since it can be put up in paper con-
tainers. It saves labor in the small home where the
convenience of its use is apparent. It saves in wastage
at the point of production and in the home. We little
appreciate how gigantic the wastage of fresh vegetables
is, and this wastage is largely because the vegetables are
too cheap on the market in the height of the season
to warrant a grower to ship them to it, and it is here
that dehydration should play an important part.

There is nothing in the vegetable situation which
confronts us to-day to assure us of cheaper vegetables
in the future. We must not forget the small proportion
of women gardeners in this country as compared with
the women field-workers of France and Germany and
even England, and vegetables require a large amount of
hand labor to produce. Where is the labor coming from ?

Possessing as we do such remarkable food as Indian
corn, and having learned, as we have, to like it, there
would seem to be a danger that we depend too fully
upon it and, with the increasing price of vegetables,
fail to realize that as we increase our corn consumption
we require greater quantities of butter, milk, meat, fats,
or vegetables to supply the food essentials lacking in
corn. As the fresh vegetables become scarcer on the
markets, it would become more and more difficult to do
this, and the result predicted by dietitians is malnutri-
tion among those who think they cannot afford to buy
the vegetables. We should learn to use these dried
vegetables to supplement the grain ration.

It is easy to see a hundred reasons why we should
not eat dried vegetables, but it is unscientific and un-
patriotic to shut our eyes to their possibilities. As a
people we should move ahead into the field of dehy-
drated vegetables, develop it, discard what is not good,
ii

1 62 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

hold what is good, and make it a means to stabilize
those vegetables the price of which fluctuates now in a
most unsatisfactory and dangerous way.

While I believe that we should consider first our own
attitude toward dried vegetables and work out the best
methods of using them for ourselves, we are warranted
in believing, as conditions are at present in Europe, that
there will be need of large quantities of all kinds of foods,
including these dried vegetables, in those countries
which are now famine-stricken. Although it is undoubt-
edly true that the German troops are using enormous
quantities of dried vegetables, it is not demonstrated
to what extent they will be employed in the feeding of
our own boys. No civilian will take the attitude that
the boys should be fed on food which he himself refuses
to eat. If we learn to use them extensively, it is a
practical certainty that our own armies will employ
them extensively, as have the armies of Great Britain,
France, and Germany.

Inspired, therefore, as an emergency measure to meet
war's demand for more complete utilization of the na-
tion's food supply, the drying of garden products must
continue. It must save summer crops for winter use
and help to care for the needs of the nations which have
been starving. It must take its place as a regulator in
the world's problem of food supply and demand.

"There seems to be no reason," says Mr. Sweet, of
the United States Food Administration, in his commu-
nication to the National War Garden Commission,
"why the abundance of one season or locality should
not be made available by this means for periods of
scarcity or for regions where fresh fruits and vegetables

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 163

cannot be obtained. Every encouragement, therefore,
should be given to home drying, in order that the people
may become familiar with the excellence of the products
which may be prepared by this method, and to save
the vast quantities of excellent food which now go to
waste for lack of adequate methods of conservation."

The simple form of drying by artificial heat and by
heat of the sun in thousands of American homes and in
no less degree the science of dehydration as developed
on a commercial scale, has shown its economic worth.
The art as practiced to-day owes much to scientific
research. This does not mean that the methods are
complicated. Science has simplified them and given
greater assurance of successful results. It has been
estimated that the United States could save $19,000,000
annually in its transportation bills by the drying of its
garden products. The saving of only a portion of this
large sum would be worth while, and it would be not
alone in the saving of money but in the release of much
valuable freight-car space for other purposes that the
nation would probably receive important benefit.

Every victory gardener or home food producer in the
United States can help to save part of this money and
freight-space. It might not be just to ask them to do
this if elaborate preparations and large outlay of money
were necessary. As these are not required every per-
son who has a vegetable plot should conserve some of
the surplus product if it would otherwise go to waste.
Practically all vegetables and fruits can be dried. The
process is simple. The cost is slight. In every home

164 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

the necessary outfit in its simplest form is already at
hand. Effective drying may be done on plates or
dishes placed in the oven, with the oven door partly
open. It may be done on the back of the kitchen stove
with these same utensils while the oven is being used
for baking. It may also be done on sheets of paper or
lengths of muslin spread in the sun and protected from
insects and dust.

The earth lives by the light and the heat of the sun.
This beneficent power should be put to work by the
victory gardeners of the United States, and thus will
this country gain a rightful and legitimate "place in
the sun. " Luther Burbank, a member of the National
War Garden Commission, says:

How few people are aware of the scientific fact that
all food and all clothing without any exception are first
produced by the action of sunlight on the foliage of
plants, and that but for the wonderful chemical engines
installed in the foliage of plants no life could exist upon
the earth; and only by the improvements which have
been made in plants and animals which subsist on
the productions of plants has our present civilization
been made possible.

This gift from Heaven which makes the plants to
grow and without which there could be no production,
should be utilized also in the conservation of food.

CHAPTER XIX

COOPERATION OF THE PRESS

VITAL HELP GIVEN BY THE NEWSPAPERS AND PERIODICALS OF AMERICA

THE printed word, the most powerful force known
to civilization, made war gardens possible. In
no other way could they have been made to
multiply so rapidly in all parts of the land. From
printer's ink to parsnips and parsley is a long jump;
but the newspapers and magazines made that jump
along with the others which they made for Liberty
Loans, the Red Cross, and various other war-work
campaigns. When the shadow of war fell across
America, and before
the actual declaration
of war, the National
War Garden Commis-
sion sent out the first
rallying call to the
home food producers.
The newspapers and
magazines spread the
call freely. General
Pershing later said, "Keep the Food Coming"; and
the publications heard that call, too, and relayed it to
their readers.

The "Soldiers of the Soil " wanted instruction and they
wanted it quickly. Prompt action was necessary that

165

166 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

their service in the "garden trenches" might be effec-
tive. There was only one way in which the message of
the war garden and the necessary instructions could
be carried to all the people with the speed demanded.
This was through the press of the country and the
printed page. Any other plan of distributing the appeal
and the instructions would have been far too slow to

be effective and further-
more would have in-
volved prohibitive ex-
pense, if it could have
been done at all.

How much of a debt
of gratitude the nation
owes to its patriotic
editors it probably will
never be able to realize
fully, but it does know that without their whole-
hearted support and their loyal assistance it would
never have been able to arouse the people of the United
States as a whole to the strenuous efforts which they
exerted to back up the government and the fighting
forces. No note of appreciation to the editors of the
country could be over-generous in its praise or too
liberal in its expression of heartfelt thanks for their
substantial aid.

When the Commission began its campaign it realized
that it must depend largely upon the support of the
newspapers and the magazines. Well-planned and
well-directed publicity was necessary to get its message

^-T^ff IS WAR GARSS

..Si?- r>jNfeW ^^ 1'astYMrWh£0^^^^* _

THE KNIGHTS OF PRINTERS INK HEARD THE CALL FOR FOOD

the land every sort of publication C9operated with the National War Garden
in the drive for home food production. Hp.rp arp hut a f^w <->f the hoa^i;«
that show how the press pati

THE KNIGHTS OF PRINTERS INK HEARD THE CALL FO1
Throughout the land every sort of publication C9operated with the National w ar uarai
Commission in the drive for home food production. Here are but a few of the headlin
that show how the press patriotically responded to the call.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 167

to the people of the United States, and the promptness

of the editors in recognizing the vital importance of

home food production and their patriotic readiness in

conveying the appeal to

their millions of readers

should be recorded in letters

of gold among the nation's

permanent records. The

Commission has expressed

its appreciation to many of

them individually and it

takes this further and more

lasting means of acknowledging its thanks, and the

thanks of the nation, for their enthusiastic service.

While space became more and more at a premium
as the war progressed, the newspapers and magazines

continued to contribute
as liberally as they
could of their columns
to the cause of food
production "F. O. B.
the Kitchen Door."
They stimulated and
encouraged the "city
farmer" to plant for
freedom and they fur-
STAPT row GARDEN W/TH A PLAN nished him with the
necessary data and instruction, provided by the Com-
mission. The great majority of those who were eager
to raise food and help feed the army were amateurs at

i68 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

HOE FOP THE

the business. They had to be shown how. They were
willing but they needed guidance. The number of
competent instructors was limited, and it became nec-
essary for the war gar-
dener to look to the
daily press for informa-
tion telling him what to
do. In this the press did
not fail him. Almost
unanimously, from one
end of the country to
the other, the news-
papers daily published
material furnished by the Commission. If this could be
totaled it would run into tens of thousands of columns.

After calling the at-
tention of the country
to the vital need of
war gardening, the
Commission prepared
a series of short gar-
den lessons telling the
home food growers
what, when, and how
to plant. These les-
sons were brief and
shorn of technicalities
but authentic, and gave the gardener all he needed to
know. They were sent to the newspapers on news-clip
sheets, a dozen or more lessons on each sheet, while a

MVeo - A GARDEN MADE

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 169

few short general stories on war

gardening were also included on

the sheet. This method of send-
ing out the material was eco-
nomical from every standpoint

and effected a great saving of

paper. It was highly approved

by the War Industries Board

as a valuable conservation scheme in paper economy.
As occasion demanded news stories which were of

interest only to a particular
city, locality, or state were
sent out to the papers of that
section but not duplicated
throughout the country.
Thus New York did not re-
ceive material in which none
but Illinois or California
readers would be interested.

In similar manner short lessons telling how to can and

dry vegetables and fruits,

and items of news value

calling attention to the

urgent need for this form

of food conservation,

were sent to the news-
papers of the country;

and they met with the

same generous response

from the editors. One

i;o THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

of the most helpful features of the newspapers was the
coupon box which hundreds of them ran during the en-
tire garden and canning
season, in which the read-
ers were informed that by
filling out the coupons
and mailing them to the
Commission they would
receive free copies of the
war vegetable gardening
or the canning and drying
books. Hundreds of thousands of newspaper readers
took advantage of this opportunity and were sent
copies of the instruction
books.

In addition to print-
ing the short garden
and canning lessons and
numerous items of news
value, the papers pub-
lished Sunday feature
stories. The Commission
furnished pictures and data for these articles, with photo-
graphs showing types of gardens
and how the war gardeners were
getting to work in various parts of
the country. Soon after the Com-
mission was organized it began to
receive requests from feature and
magazine writers and editors

KEEP THE FOOD COWNG-Pershing.

From National War Garden Commission, Washington, D. C

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TYPICAL HEADINGS FROM NEWS SHEETS

The Commission in sending out garden data to the newspapers helped the editor by preparing
the copy in as near the style desired as possible. This was a big help to busy "copy" desks.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 171

throughout the
United States for il-
lustrations and ma-
terial which could
be used in . stimulat-
ing the home food-
growing enterprise
throughout the terri-
tory in which their
publications c i r c u-
lated. These requests
were promptly met.
The Commission was
able to do this be-
cause it gathered in
a short time and had
on file in the Wash-
ington office a large
collection of interest-
ing photographs as well as much data about war gardens,
showing what they could do and were doing. Many of

the magazine writers called per-
sonally at the headquarters and
were delighted and surprised
at the readiness with which
their needs were filled. They
went away with envelopes
filled with pictures and mate-
rials for their stories.

Some of the publicity matter

STACK WORKER wiu.

SIT IN A CORNER
EALS HIS GOOD MOTHER
HAS PLANNED-

SHE'LL FEED HER WHOLE BROOD
WITH THE CHOICEST OF FOOD,

\tfHICH SHE IN HER

172 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

went out to the news-
papers in "mat" or
matrix form, so that
it was necessary for
the paper to make
only the stereotype
from which the print-
ing was to be done.
The material which
the Commission sent
out in this way in-
cluded reproductions
of its several posters,
little comics on gar-
dening and canning, a
step-by-step series of
illustrations explaining
in detail the cold-pack
process of canning
vegetables and fruits; initials to be used in dressing
up the garden page; and a number of prose poems with
small illustrations in-
serted. All this material
was used very widely.

The news-service
organizations and illus-
trated-feature syndi-
cates used many stories
on war-garden work.
In this way thousands

LTTLE Cfliss WUFFET WILL; SIT

ON HERTUFFET

GIGGLE IN MERRIEST'GLEE
FOR SHE'LL NOT BE NEEDING TO BUY

aa STUFF FOR FEEDING

DLL CAN IT THIS sunroERj

BGB

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 173

of papers were served by lh|v— 9 and another
the Associated Press, the «? lif tie farm
United Press, the Inter- would ift do us any harm
national News Service, the
Western Newspaper Union,
the Newspaper Enterprise
Association, the News
Feature Service, the Inter-
national Syndicate, and
other important agencies. The Washington correspond-
ents of the leading dailies
of the country sent to
their home papers, by wire
and mail, items of national
or local interest telling of
the activities of the war
gardeners. The value of
this patriotic service in
furthering home food pro-
duction cannot be over-estimated. Some of the largest
and most influential
newspapers in the coun-
try gave most prominent
place on many occasions
to the Commission's call
to the home food pro-
ducers and conservers of
America. The Philadel-
phia North American, for
instance, reproduced the

174 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

"Can the Kaiser" poster on the front page in a space

covering nearly one-quarter of the entire page. The

Boston Post used both this and the "Sow the Seeds of

Victory" poster on
one page, devoting a
large part of the
space to these strik-
ing designs. The
Garden Magazine
used reproductions
of the posters as
cover illustrations on
two of its monthly
issues. The Forecast

also made use of the Verrees poster as a cover design.

The Diario de la Marina, of Havana, Cuba, one of the

foreign papers to which copies of the posters and several

articles on war gardening

in the United States had

been sent, published a

"smash" layout of the

Flagg Victory Garden

poster covering almost the

entire front page. Zig-Zag,

of Santiago, Chile, also

used it as a cover design.
During the campaigns of

both 1917 and 1918 the newspapers of this country gave

the Commission loyal backing. They knew the need

of food and they saw what an asset the "city farmer"

could be in this direction.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 175

The most remarkable cooperation was given in New
York City when virtually every one of the big metro-
politan dailies was running the Commission's garden
hints and suggestions
simultaneously. The
papers thus helping in-
cluded the Evening
World, the Globe, the
Evening Post, the Jour-
nal, the Evening Tele-
gram, and the Brook-
lyn Eagle. On Sundays
some of the papers regu-
larly ran an entire page or two of war-garden material.
In the United States a large number of the foreign-
language newspapers, Italian, French and others, told

their readers of the ser-
vice they could perform
through war-gardening
and the conservation of
the surplus products
thus grown. Several
summaries of the war-
garden movement in the
United States were

FOR PATRIOTIC REASONS translated into French,
Spanish, Italian, and Portugese and sent by the Commis-
sion to leading publications throughout Latin America,
Canada, Australia, Europe, and the Orient. They ap-
peared, for instance, in such widely separated papers as

i;6 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

the Alexandria (Egypt) Gazette, and Le Messager de Sao
Paulo, Brazil; and were published from Calcutta, India,
and Tokio, Japan, to Montreal, Canada. The Asahi

News, a Japanese newspaper
of Seattle, gave hearty sup-
port to the Commission and
published much of its advice
and instruction to gardeners
and home canners.

Magazines of general in-
terest and many house-
organs cooperated in the
campaign and published ar-
ticles dealing with various phases of war gardening. This
applied to conservation as well as to the productive
phase of the work. As an illustration, the Ladies'
Home Journal pub-
lished an entire page of
pictures of women who
had been blue-ribbon
winners and had re-
ceived the Commis-
sion's National Capitol
Prize Certificates for
excellence in canning
garden products. The
Outlook printed from time to time a number of appre-
ciations of the value of home food growing. The
Garden Magazine, of Garden City, Long Island, used a
number of stories on the subject and printed a monthly

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WITH PICTURE AND TYPE THE PRESS URGED GARDENING

The cooperation of the newspapers and magazines in national service was one of the

greatest patriotic demonstrations of the world war. This reproduction of clippings shows

how data from the National War Garden Commission was printed.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 177

page summarizing important and inspiring war-garden
activities throughout the United States. The Country
Gentleman, in addition to regular garden lessons, pub-
lished several articles com-
mending highly the work of
the Commission. Similar help-
fulness was extended by the
Nation's Business, official pub-
lication of the Chamber of
Commerce of the United
States; the Manufacturers9
Record, Baltimore; the Amer-

r> •* TVT v 1 ,.1.

ican City, JNew York; the
Journal of the American Bankers' Association', the Mis-
souri, Kansas £ff Texas Railway, Employes' Maga-
zine', American Industries, and many other trade and

business papers. House and
Garden, Vogue, and the
Touchstone were among other
high-class magazines which
printed illustrated war-garden
stories supplied by the Com-
% V ^Hk mission. The World Court

Magazine is another example
of this editorial cooperation.
The Century, Good Housekeep-
ing, the National Magazine, the Survey, the Illustrated
World, the People's Popular Monthly, the Illustrated Sun-
day Magazine, the Woman9 s World, the Rotarian, the Lone
Scout, Forbes' Magazine, American Forestry, the Southern

178 THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS

Lumberman, the Christian Endeavor World, the Forecast,
and the People's Home Journal, and many others were
among the publications that carried war-garden stories.

The Literary Digest printed
a summary of the work ac-
complished and showed
what Daylight Saving had
done to further the efforts
of the war gardener.

The manufacturer of
plows or soda fountains, as
wellasthe editorof a general-
interest magazine, realized the value of home food pro-
duction to his employes; and through their house-
organs the heads of many industrial and business con-
cerns spread the gospel
of "Food F. O. B. the
Kitchen Door." Trade
publications of all kinds
throughout the country
carried garden lessons
and inspirational articles
urging their workers to
produce food and thus
help themselves and their
country at the same time.
Some of them reproduced the Commission's posters in
their magazines and used other material furnished them.
The work of cooperation with newspapers and peri-
odicals was conducted by Russell T. Edwards, under
the direction of Secretary Ridsdale.

THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS 179

Thus the magazines and the newspapers of the United
States cooperated in making a success of the war-
garden movement. Without their help this could not
have been accomplished. What was brought about
with their aid shows the
power of the printed page.
It spread the message of
the war garden to the mil-
lions. It made possible the
enlistment of a vast army
of war gardeners and of
home canners and dryers.
It brought into action the
patriotic will of the Ameri-
can people to do full share
in the battle for international freedom and world-wide
democracy. In short it was through the printed page
that the war garden and home conservation were given
their proper place among war-time activities.

Appendix

TWO OF THE VICTORY BOOKS ISSUED
BY THE COMMISSION

"WAR GARDENING," VICTORY EDITION, 1919

HOME CANNING AND DRYING/
VICTORY EDITION, 1919

Victory Edition 1919

WAR GARDENING

and Home Storage of \fegetables

Published,

National War Garden Commission

Washington,D.C.

WAR DEPARTMENT

WASHINGTON

June 7, 1918.

NATIONAL WAR GARDEN COMMISSION,
WASHINGTON, D. C.

Dear Sirs:

The War Department finds much satisfaction in the creation of War Gardens
at various army camps by the Conservation and Reclamation Division of the
Quartermaster General's office. Food production at these camps has been the
subject of some concern with the department. The large areas of tillable land
within many of the military reservations have been regarded as offering potential
food production on a large scale, and I feel that the army is to be congratulated-
that the utilization of this space has now taken concrete form.

Camp War Gardens will serve more than one useful purpose. The pro-
duction of food at the mess door is of great importance in that it not only lessens
the army's demand on the usual sources of supply but eliminates transportation
as well.

To the National War Garden Commission I extend the thanks of the Depart-
ment for its quick response to the appeal of the Quartermaster General's office
for co-operation. Not confining itself to mere compliance with the letter of the
request, the Commission entered fully into its spirit. At a time when funds
were not available through Government channels the Commission voluntarily
provided seed, fertilizers and equipment which made possible the establishment
of a War Garden of 300 acres or more at Camp Dix. For this generous contri-
bution and for swift action to overcome the handicap of a late start I take pleasure
in making this acknowledgment and in expressing the hope that the Camp Dix
War Garden of the National War Garden Commission will prove an unqualified
success.

Cordially yours,

(Signed) NEWTON D. BAKER,

Secretary of War.

UNITED STATES FOOD ADMINISTRATION

Baltimore, Maryland.
September 14, 1918.

NATIONAL WAR GARDEN COMMISSION,
Maryland Building,

WASHINGTON, D. C.
Gentlemen:

We wish to express to you our appreciation of your helpfulness in our war
garden, canning and drying work in Maryland during the season of 1918. Your
book on canning and drying has been of great value, while the canning outfits
which you so kindly gave us made it possible for us to establish canning centers
throughout the State, with results of far-reaching importance which could not have
been otherwise accomplished. We are equally appreciative of your prompt and
willing response to our request for the services of one of your trained investigators
4:o assist in our war garden work. Your spirit of prompt and willing service is
cordially appreciated.

Yours truly,

(Signed) EDWIN G. BAETJER,

Federal Food Administrator for Maryland.

PLAN OF GARDEN 50 by 75 feet, in which careful attention has been paid to proper relation of
the season's crops and to a continuous supply of the more important vegetables.

Hot Bed

Gold Frame

Asparagus

Rhubarb

ARRANGEMENT OF SEASON'S CROPS

Peas, followed by late Tomatoes

Peas, followed by Celery

Onion Sets, followed by Turnips

Corn, followed by Spinach

Beans (bush), followed by Beets

Beets, y% row; Carrots, ^ row, followed by Corn

Turnips, followed by Bush Beans

Potatoes, followed by Spinach

Spinach, followed by Potatoes

Cabbage, with Lettuce and Radishes between, followed by Carrots

Beans, Bush Lima

Chard, % row; Parsley, Y± row

Parsnips, % row (radishes to mark row); Salsify, 24 row

Corn, followed by Kohlrabi, Yi row; Cauliflower, % row

Peas, followed by Corn

Beans, Bush Lima

Early Potatoes, followed by late Cabbage

Early Tomatoes

Peppers, ^ row; Potatoes, Okra or Eggplant, Y2 row

Potatoes

Pole Lima Beans

Pole Beans

Corn

Cucumbers

Squash

(bush

crook neck)

Squash

(winter)

Musk-

melon

Rows are 30 inches apart. If soil is very fertile rows may be closer.

Planting was begun at hotbed end of garden and plantings were made a few days apart
to insure a constant supply of vegetables. Planting table on page 23.

MAKE YOUR WAR GARDEN
A GARDEN OF VICTORY

By CHARLES LATHROP PACK, President

National War Garden Commission

AIERICA'S responsibility for
the world's food supply did
not stop with the ending
of the war. In peace, as in conflict,
this country must carry the burden
of Europe's food problems. With
the advent of peace these problems
have become intensified. America is
now expected to furnish the solution
and this can be done only through
the continued application of high
pressure food production and un-
wavering food conservation.

For two years of war the War
Gardens of America produced food-
stuffs which helped establish the
balance of power between starvation
and abundance. In the spring of
1918, General Haig declared, "We
stand with our backs to the wall."
Of that call to the civilized world no
phase was more vital than its inter-
pretation and answer in terms of
food. During that year the answer
was given by the American people
with true American spirit. The war
gardeners of the United States re-
sponded with a vigor which carried
the War Gardens over the top to
victory. By the addition of more
than five hundred million dollars of
crop value to this country's food
production they made it easier for
America to feed her own people and
the people of France and Belgium.

The Victory Garden is now as
vital as the War Garden. Peace
brings new food needs. In reclaim-
ing territory from the enemy France
and Belgium have greatly increased
the number of their people who must
be fed. By restoring these former
expatriates to citizenship these coun-
tries have also assumed the burden
of feeding them. This will mean a
vast increase in the demands on
America as the source of Europe's
food supply in 1919. Europe can-
not feed herself during the first year
of reconstruction ; Russia faced famine
conditions in the winter of 1918-
1919, and Mr. Hoover says that the
world's food shortage will last for
another seven years.

The war gardener's responsibility,
therefore, did not end with the com-
ing of peace. His War Garden must
now be made a Victory Garden in
the full sense of the words. It must
help solve the problem of feeding
people rendered helpless by years
of ruthless and terrible war.

The garden crop of 1919 must be
even greater than that of 1918, and
there must be more canning and dry-
ing for winter use. The people of
America have a real duty to perform
in this respect and the nation counts
confidently on full measure of in-
dividual response.

PART I

WAR GARDENING MANUAL

As a result of emergency created by war the home garden of America has
become an institution of world-wide importance. The planting and growing
season of 1918 demonstrated that the products thus raised are essential to the
feeding of the people of the United States and the Allied Nations. Under the
impetus given by the National War Garden Commission the people of this
country last year produced a crop valued at $520,000,000 in gardens cultivated
in backyards, on vacant lots and on other land previously un tilled — the
patriotic gift of the war gardens to the nation.

Peace can in no wise diminish America's responsibility for feeding
Europe. The recovery of vast areas of devastated country in France and
Belgium greatly increases the number of people to be fed and adds heavily
to the food burden of America. Because of this the Victory Garden is no
less necessary than the War Garden.

WAR GARDENS HELP SOLVE TRAFFIC PROBLEM

War-time brought the most serious traffic
congestion the United States has ever seen.
This condition has no meaning more signifi-
cant than that the gardens of this year must
do even more than those of 1918 in freeing the
overburdened railroads from the need for
transporting food products. With food short-
age threatening the Allied Nations and with
railroad congestion as an added factor, the
war garden results of the coming season must
be considerably greater even than the vast
yield of last year.

COMMUNITY GARDENING

Excellent results are obtained through co-
operative gardening work. If several fami-
lies join forces they can reduce the cost of
gardening in time, labor and money. Fami-
lies having adjoining or neighboring garden
plots may use one set of tools. To prevent
clash of convenience it is well to have an
understanding in advance as to the time
when each gardener is to have the use of
particular tools. By this arrangement it is
possible to have complete equipment at ex-
pense much less than if each gardener bought
his own. Money can also be saved in buying
seeds, fertilizers and spraying materials by
clubbing together and gaining advantage of
the lower prices for large lots.

One Of the advantages of doing commu-
nity work is that it is possible for the gar-
deners interested in the project to employ a
man and a team to prepare their gardens by
plowing and harrowing. In this way the
man and team can be kept busy throughout

the day and the expense to each gardener
will be slight.

On a larger scale this principle should be
applied to garden plots on tracts of vacant
land allotted to individuals in or near cities
or towns. Each plot in such a tract is a
separate garden, belonging to the individual
or family to whom allotted. In many in-
stances the municipal authorities, the mayor's
war garden committee or some similar local
organization, will provide an expert to super-
vise work on community gardens of this
character. This expert will give advice and
instructions as to preparation, planting and
cultivation and on other technical subjects.

If an expert is not provided in this way it
is wise for the gardeners to club together and
arrange for one at their own expense, if the
project is large enough to make this possible
without too great individual cost. The help
of an expert is of great value.

School children and parents may work to-
gether to good advantage on these garden
plots. In some communities school au-
thorities allow the children to spend a por-
tion of the school hours, on stated days, in
their garden work. Through co-operation
with street cleaning departments a munici-
pal government may arrange to deliver
manure to war gardeners at nominal cost.
In at least one important city this is done at
a charge of $2 per load.

It is a good plan for municipal govern-
ments to arrange for lectures at school
houses or other places on practical problems
in gardening. This increases efficiency.

WAR GARDENING

Fig. 1— A community garden which produced excellent results. The ground was provided by a manufacturing
concern for its employes and the plowing and harrowing were done by the company. Expert supervisors directed
the work. This supervision is an important help to successful gardening.

CORPORATION GARDENS

Manufacturing concerns, and other enter-
prises which employ labor on a large scale,
may make valuable contribution to the
national food supply by encouraging their
employees to cultivate war gardens. Many
concerns furnish large tracts of land, which
are divided into individual garden plots.
These plots are allotted to such employes as
are willing to cultivate them. Each plot and
everything it produces are recognized as the
individual property of its cultivator. The
company bears the expense of plowing and
fertilizing these plots and employs an expert
to have charge.

HOW TO HAVE A GOOD GARDEN

Garden Plan

Have a plan for your garden — drawn to
scale on paper — before you start, to give
proper order in planting and enable you to
buy the right amount of seeds in advance
while the selection is good.

Put in one general group small plants like
beets, onions, lettuce, carrots, radishes and
parsnips. In another general group put
larger plants like corn, tomatoes and pota-
toes. Spreading ground vines, like melons
and cucumbers, which need wider spacing,
should be put in another general group. The
reason for this grouping is that the various
plants in a group need similar general treat-
ment as well as spacing.

In making a plan provide space in which
to enter costs and yield of the various crops.
This will give you a complete record which
will be useful another year. Another help-
ful use of the plan is that it will guide you in
the rotation of next year's crops. For this
purpose save your plan for next season.

In planning your garden formulate some
definite plan as to what you will do with
surplus vegetables. Detailed instructions for
home storage of vegetables for winter use are
given in Part II of this booklet. Detailed
instructions for canning, drying, pickling and

other forms of conservation are given in the
Home Manual on these subjects issued by
this Commission.

Sunshine

In the location of a garden it is not always
possible to choose conditions as to sunlight.
It is important, therefore, that in the ar-
rangement of the various varieties of vege-
tables which are to be planted, due care
should be given to providing the greatest
exposure to the sun for those crops which
need it most. Those plants which must ripen
their fruits, such as tomatoes and eggplant,
require the greatest amount of sunshine,
while lettuce, spinach, kale and other leaf
crops require relatively less. Foliage crops
must have at least 3 hours of sunlight a day
and plants which ripen fruits at least 5 hours
a day. This is important.

Vary from Last Year's Plan

It is important to remember that plant
diseases and insects are apt to thrive in a
spot in which they have become established.
For this reason those who make gardens
this year should take care not to place the
individual crops in the spot in which the
same crops grew last year. Varying the ar-
rangement of the garden in this way will reduce
the danger from disease and insects. The
same vegetables in the same place each year
exhaust certain food elements, and reduced
yields are sure to result.

SURPLUS PRODUCTS

At times, even with the best of planning,
a gardener will find that his garden has
matured more of some varieties of vegetables
than can be used immediately. None of this
excess should be wasted and there is no
occasion for waste. If there is no ready
market for the surplus it should be prepared
for winter by either canning or drying. By
modern methods either canning or drying
may be done with little expense of time,
trouble or financial outlay. By using the

THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 5

containing 3 to 4 per cent nitrogen and 8 to 10
per cent phosphoric acid is about right for the
average garden. Your dealer will inform
you on this point. If the fertilizer also con-
tains potash, so much the better, but this year
potash is scarce and high in price.

Where no manure is used the fertilizer
should be spread over the surface of the finely
prepared seed-bed at the rate of 5 pounds
for a plot 10 feet square, just before planting.
The surface soil should then be thoroughly
raked so as to mix the fertilizer evenly to a
depth of 2 inches. Never place seed or trans-
planted plants in direct contact with fertilizer.
Thorough mixing of the fertilizer with the soil
is essential to prevent injury of seed or roots.

cold-pack method as small a quantity as a
single can or jar may be put up in a short
time. With proper instructions it is possible
for the housewife to dry a handful of peas or
beans, sweet corn, a few sweet potatoes or
turnips, or small quantities of many other
vegetables with practically no expenditure of
her time. Explicit and simple directions for
canning and drying are given in the Manual
issued by the National War Garden Com-
mission.

THE SOIL AND MANURES

The back yard gardener must use the soil
he has, but he can improve it if is poor, and
he must do this as far as possible. Stable
manure will help even the
richest soil, and you are
not likely to use too much
of it. During a single season
professional gardeners apply
as much as six inches of it.
From 400 to 600 pounds can
be used to advantage on a
plot 20 by 20 feet. Coarse
manure should be apa^ed
and thoroughly plowed or
spaded under in the fall.
In the soring, fine, rotted Fig- 2 — This shows the construction of an outdoor cold frame. A hotbed is

built in the same way, except that for the hotbed a pit and manure are required,
just gee page 7 for directions for making cold frames and hotbeds.

manure is applied,

before plowing or spading,

preceding the planting of any crop. If the

ground is fairly rich, and well-rotted manure

is scarce, the manure may be scattered in the

row only, and should be mixed into the soil

before the planting of seed.

Loam is the best garden soil. Sand, with
manure, gives good results. Clay is hardest
to work, but is greatly improved by well-
rotted manure and vegetable matter — called
humus. These should be well worked in
with hoe and rake. Sifted coal ashes, en-
tirely free from clinkers, will help loosen up
clay when mixed into it, but will not remove
an acid condition nor increase fertility.

Where manure has been worked into the
soil, reduce the fertilizer application ap-
proximately one-half.

Tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes, spinach and
some other crops requiring rather long growing
seasons, are materially benefited by a second
application of fertilizer when half grown.
Side dressings of this .kind should be scattered
between the rows at the rate of four ounces
(one-half pint) to 10 feet of row, when rows
are spaced 2 feet apart; and pro rata for rows
spaced a greater or lesser distance. To insure
even distribution mix the fertilizer with fine,
dry earth just before spreading.

Commercial Fertilizer

Many gardeners experience difficulty in
obtaining supplies of well-rotted manure.
In such cases commercial fertilizers should
be used. Even where stable manure has
been secured and worked into the soil it is
well to supplement with moderate quantities
of quick-acting fertilizer in order to give
plants an early start and hasten maturity.

It is" safest to rely upon the ready-mixed
fertilizers usually obtainable at seed and
hardware stores. Several specially prepared
mixtures in convenient packages are now on
the market. For large areas, 100 to 200-
pound bags may be obtained. A mixture

Compost

Compost is especially desirable when
quick growth is wanted. Compost is thor-
oughly rotted manure or organic material.
It is prepared from six to twelve months
before being used, by putting the manure
and other material in piles having perpen-
dicular sides and flat tops. These piles
are usually from 2 to 4 feet high and 6 to 8
feet long.

Besides the usual waste of garden rubbish,
there is a large waste of leaves, weeds and
the skins and other unused portions of fruits
and vegetables. These should all be thrown
on the compost pile to decay for use on the

WAR GARDENING

garden next spring. Destroy all plants which
are diseased. The compost pile should be
built up in alternate layers of vegetable
refuse a foot thick and earth an inch or more
thick. The earth helps to rot the vegetable
matter when mixed with it. The top of the
pile should be left flat that the rain may enter
and help in the process of decay.

If the pile can be forked over once a month
when not frozen and the contents well mixed
together, they will decay quite rapidly and
be in good usable condition in the spring.
The compost may be either spread over the
garden and plowed under or it may be scat-
tered in the rows before the seed are sown.
This is, of course, not as rich as stable manure,
but it is a good substitute.

Compost is also used as a top dressing dur-
ing the growing season for hastening growth.

In the cities and towns tons of leaves are
burned every fall. This is a loss which ought
to be prevented. These leaves properly
composted with other vegetable waste and
earth would be worth hundreds of dollars to
the gardens next spring.

In planning a permanent garden, a space
should be reserved near the hotbed or seed
bed, and in this space should be piled, as
soon as pulled, all plants which are free from
diseases and insects. This applies to all
vegetables and especially to peas and beans,
as these belong to a group of plants which
take nitrogen from the air, during growth,
and store it in their roots. When these plants
are decayed they will return to the soil not
only much of the plant food taken from it
during their growth but additional nitrogen
as well. Nitrogen in the soil is necessary
for satisfactory leaf growth. The material
so composted should be allowed to decay
throughout the winter, and when
needed should be used according to
the instructions given for using
compost. The sweepings of pigeon
lofts or chicken coops make valu-
able fertilizer. When cleaning roosts
from day to day add % as
much acid phosphate as
sweepings. When needed
apply 1 pound of this mix-
ture to every 5 square
feet of ground, mixing it
thoroughly into the soil.

Prepared sheep manure, where procurable
at a reasonable price, is possibly the safest
concentrated fertilizer. It should be used in
small quantities rather than spread broad-
cast. Scatter it along the row before seed is
sown or apply by mixing it with water in a
pail, stirring the mixture to the consistency of
thin mush, and pouring it along the rows of
the plants.

Green Manure

Green manure is useful as a fertilizer. It
consists of green plants turned under by
plowing or spading. Rye is the most satis-
factory for this purpose. If planted in July
or August the crop may be turned under in
the fall if early spring planting is desired.
If planted later, it is usually turned under in
the spring. When not turned under until
spring, the growth will prevent the leaching of
soluble plant food or the washing away of
rich soil.

In sowing rye for this purpose, use at the
rate of 1 pound of seed to a strip of ground
50 feet long and 10 feet wide. If the ground
is rough or hard it should be cultivated just
before the seed is sown, and then cultivated
again to cover the seed. Sow the seed be-
tween the rows of crops not yet gathered.
Rye is very hardy and will sprout even
though there is frost nearly every night. At
a cost of about 5 cents for a pound of seed a
garden of 10 by 50 feet can thus be treated
to an application of green manure. The
green rye plants soon decay when turned
under and answer the same purpose as a light
dressing of manure.

Green manure, however, should not be relied
upon to do the work of stable manure, as it
does not provide phosphorus or potassium.

Lime

Land which has long been unused, or
land in lawns, is apt to be sour. To
remedy this condition apply
evenly 1 pound of air-slaked
ir „ lime or 2 pounds of ground lime-
stone to every 30 square feet.
The lime should be applied and
raked in to a depth of 2 inches
when the seed bed is being pre-
pared in the spring. Instead of
lime 2 pounds of unleached

Fig. 3 — Tools most commonly needed in a small garden. From left to right, between the balls of cord, they are:
Trowel, weeder, spade, steel toothed rake, hoe, garden fork, watering pot and dibble.

THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE

wood ashes may be used. Do not appfy
lime at the same time as manure or mixed
fertilizers, as it will cause loss of nitrogen.

As an addition to soil lime is of consider-
able value. Besides correcting acidity it
changes the physical structure of the soil.
One of the elements of lime is calcium, which
is required for plant growth.

OUTDOOR HOTBEDS

For early planting a hotbed may be made,
located in a sheltered spot with southern
exposure, where it will receive a generous
supply of sun. A width of 6 feet is desirable,
and the length should be such as will enable
the use of standard 3 by 6 foot hotbed sash.
A simple, boxlike frame, 12 inches high in the
rear and 8 inches high in front, will hold the
sash and give a better angle for the rays of
the sun.

Dig a pit 1^ to 2 feet deep, the size of the
sash frame to be used. Line the sides of this
with boards or planks, brick or concrete, and
make a tile drain, or place stones on the
bottom of the pit, to carry off surplus water.
This pit is to be filled with fresh horse manure.
The manure will require special treatment
before being placed in the pit. It should be
thrown into a pile and allowed to heat.
When it has heated and is steaming fork it
over into a new pile, throwing the outside
material into the center. When the new pile
has become well heated fork the material
once more into a new pile. This will require
from ten days to two weeks and is important
in that it gets rid of excessive heat. After
this process fill the pit with the manure,
packed down firmly and evenly, level with
the surface of the surrounding earth. On
top of this manure make a covering of good
garden loam 3 or 4 inches deep.

When the sash has been put in place the
manure will generate heat, in addition to the
heat that will be derived from the sun. After
this heat has reached its highest point and
dropped back to between 80 and 90 degrees F.
the seed should be planted. Use the best
seed obtainable. Until the seed germinate
the hotbed should be kept shaded to hold
moisture. This can be done by spreading
over the sash strips of old carpet, heavy cloth
or newspapers. After germination strong
light will be needed. The plants must be
watered each morning on clear days, and the
sash left partially open for ventilation, as it
is necessary to dry the foliage to prevent
mildew.

Proper ventilation is essential to the pro-
duction of strong, healthy plants. The sash
should be raised during the warmest part of
the day on the side opposite the direction
from which the wind is blowing. By opening

it in this way instead of facing the wind, the
hotbed receives fresh air without receiving
direct draft. On cold days raise the sash
slightly three or four times a day for a few
minutes only. In severe weather cover the
beds with mats, straw or manure to keep in
as much heat as possible. About two weeks
before transplanting time the sash should be
removed during the day to "harden" the
plants. While in the hotbed the plants
should be thoroughly watered, but the water
should not reach the manure underneath.
Early morning is the best time for water-
ing, so that the plants will be dried before
night.

An outdoor hotbed of this character should
be started in the early spring — February or
March.

THE COLD FRAME

A cold frame is useful for hardening piants
which have been started in the hotbed. It
is built like a hotbed, but without the pit or
manure. It is built on the surface of the
ground. Good, rich soil should be used and
the soil kept slightly moist. In mild climates
the cold frame may be used instead of a hot-
bed for starting plants. It is also used in the
fall and early winter for growing lettuce,
radishes, carrots, parsley, etc.

TOOLS

Not many implements are required for
home gardening. The essentials are a spade
or a garden fork, a hoe, a rake with steel
teeth, a trowel, a dibble or pointed stick, and
a line such as is used by masons, or a piece of
common string or cord, to stretch between
two stakes for marking off rows. In the case
of hard packed earth a pick is useful for dig-
ging. For watering, a rubber hose is needed
where pipe connections are available. Lack-
ing this equipment a watering pot should be
provided. A hand cultivator or wheel hoe is
useful, especially in a large garden, and saves
much time and labor in turning small furrows.
With simple attachments it is used for
stirring the soil and the removal of weeds.

PREPARATION OF SOIL

After the frost goes out test the ground by
squeezing a handful of it. If it crumbles the
soil is ready for spading. If it packs into a
mud ball, the ground is still 'too wet and
should not be worked.

Spade deeply, 8 to 15 inches, unless this
latter depth turns up poor soil and buries the
richer soil of the top. Pulverize the dirt
deeply with hoe, spade and rake, breaking all
clods on the surface. If a lawn roller is
available it is useful for crushing clods. All
vegetable growth on the surface, such as grass

WAR GARDENING

or weeds, should be turned under, to rot and
enrich the soil. This is especially important
with ground that has had a growth of turf.

Fig. 4 — Wheel hoe and hand cultivator, to be had with
attachments such as plow, cultivator teeth, shovels
and rake. A simple form may be made at home.

SELECTION OF CROPS

The home garden campaign for 1919 should
be planned with a view to the production of
the largest possible amount of food with the
smallest possible outlay of seed and fertilizer.
Authorities agree that the seed shortage is the
worst the country has ever seen. The supply
of fertilizers and natural manures is far below
the normal. The demand for these materials
is exceedingly great and war-time efficiency
makes it vital that war-time conservation be
practised in the use of them. To this end
gardens should be devoted as far as possible
to those crops which are most useful for food
and in which the chances of failure are least
to be feared.

In the selection of vegetables for the home
garden preference should be given to the staple
crops such as potatoes, beans, tomatoes, corn,
onions, and cabbage. Crops of next im-
portance, such as peas, carrots, parsnips,
beets, squash, greens, turnips, cauliflower,
radishes and celery, should be grown if space
in the garden permits.

Fig. 5 — Simple seed test, using plates and moist blotting
paper or cloth. This is extremely useful.

Cauliflower, muskmelons, watermelons,
onions from seed, asparagus and cucumbers
are some of the plants that are most difficult
to raise and these are not recommended to
the amateur gardener.

Soils vary so much that serious attention
should be given to the crops suited to the
individual garden. This is a local question.
Consult your local war garden committee's
experts as to the best crops for your particular
soil. Expert advice will prevent mistakes.

In many communities, last year witnessed
an over-production of some vegetables that
had to be used during the growing season.
Many gardeners had larger crops of these
than they could possibly use. Much waste
resulted. To prevent this loss in seed, fer-
tilizer, garden space, labor and foodstuffs
every gardener should give especial atten-
tion to the selection of crops. Plant spar-
ingly of those things which must be used as
they mature and plant liberally of those things
which may be saved for winter use by can-
ning, drying or storing.

Fig. 6 — Use an envelope for sowing seed. The picture
shows seed already sown in some of the rows.

PROCURE SEED EARLY

Seed shortage was a handicap to many
gardeners last year. In 1919 the planting of
gardens will be increased and the demand
for seed even greater than in 1918. It is
important, therefore, that the home gardener
should procure his supply of seed early —
well in advance of planting time. Be sure to
patronize a reliable dealer, as quality is vital.

Use Seed Sparingly

Home gardeners often plant seed thickly
to make sure of a good stand. This is a
wasteful method, excepting with such vege-
tables as will produce young plants which
may be used as greens. The better way is
to plant according to the directions given in
the planting table.

The pronounced seed shortage this year
makes it imperative that no seed be wasted.

Testing Seed

A simple test will give useful advance
information of the germinating value of
seed. This test is useful as enabling the
gardener to determine whether or not
seed have been properly cured . and are
otherwise in good condition. Seed which
are too old or have been kept under un-
favorable conditions are unsatisfactory.

THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE

HOW MUCH SEED TO BUY

The following amounts of seed will plant in each case a garden row 100 feet long. Measure
your rows and buy accordingly. Also compare your figures with planting table on page 23.

Eggplant ................................ Yi ounce

Kale, or Swiss chard ...................... Yz ounce

Parsley .................................. J£ ounce

Parsnip ................................. Yz ounce

Vegetable oyster (salsify) .................. Yz ounce

Onion sets (bulbs) ......................... 1 quart

Onion seed ......... ...................... 1 ounce

Peas .................................. 1 to 2 pints

Radish ................................... 1 ounce

Spinach .................................. 1 ounce

Tomatoes ............................... Y* ounce

Turnip ........................... ....... Yz ounce

String beans Yz to 1 pint

Lima beans Yi to 1 pint

Cabbage Yt ounce

Carrot 1 ounce

Cauliflower 1 packet

Celery Y* ounce

All squash Yz ounce

Beets 2 ounces

Sweet corn Yz pint

Lettuce Yz ounce

Muskmelon Yz ounce

Cucumber Yz ounce

1 or 2 pecks of early potatoes and
supply four persons.

to 1 bushel of late potatoes are enough to plant to

Fig. 7 — A paper band folded into the form of a berry
box, without bottom, is a good holder for indoor seed
planting. The picture shows how these are placed
side by side in a flat box.

To test plant 25 to 50 seed of each variety
in an indoor seed box, or place between moist
blotters or cloth between two plates. (Fig. 5.)
Germination should take place within 2 to 8
days and the number of seedlings which grow
will show the percentage of germination.

The seedlings should be kept for planting
to prevent waste.

The standard adopted by the United
States Department of Agriculture for seed
germination is as follows:

SHOULD PRODUCE 60 to 80 PER CENT:

Celery, Parsley, Salsify, Eggplant, Parsnip.
SHOULD PRODUCE 80 TO 85 PER CENT:

Asparagus, Okra, Spinach, Carrot, Onion, Cauli-
flower, Pepper.

SHOULD PRODUCE 85 TO 90 PER CENT:

Corn (sweet), Lettuce, Squash, Cress, Melon,
Tomato, Cucumber, Pumpkin.

SHOULD PRODUCE 90 TO 95 PER CENT:

Bean, Mustard, Turnip, Cabbage, Pea, Radish.

INDOOR PLANTING

Earlier crops can be secured by planting
certain seed indoors and setting the young
plants out in the open garden after the
weather becomes warm. This may be done
with tomatoes, cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower,
peppers, and eggplant.

Any wooden box, shallow and wide,
will make an indoor garden. Put 1 inch
of gravel or cinders in the bottom for drain-
age, and fill to the top with good soil. Rows
of plants may be two inches apart.

Plant 8 or 10 seed to the inch, keep the
soil damp, and set the box in a window.
When the plants are an inch high trans-
plant them to other seed boxes, spacing
plants 2 inches apart. This insures sturdy
plants with good root systems.

Transplanting

Before transplanting the plants to the
garden set the box outdoors, in mild weather,
to harden the plants. Set out each plant
with a ball of the box dirt sticking to the
roots. Thorough water-
ing several hours be-
fore transplanting
causes the earth to
stick as required.

If the root system
is broken in the re-
moval trim away some
of the" larger leaves
of the plants. In moist
ground open a hole
with trowel or dibble.
Make the hole larger
than is needed to
hold the roots and
a little deeper than
the roots grew. Place

roots in hole, and,

•*.\- ^.u t. j i Fig. 8 — Transplanting to-

with the hands, pack mato plant from pot to

the soil firmly around garden.

the plant. In dry soil

pour a pint of water into each hole before

inserting plant. Rake some dry earth about

the surface surrounding each plant to hold

the moisture.

Transplanted plants cannot stand strong
sunshine at first and cloudy days or late
afternoon are preferable for transplanting.
In bright weather place newspapers over
them for a day or two, making tents of the
papers, in the shape of an inverted V.

A homemade paper pot, a round, bottom-
less paper band or a berry box, filled with soil

WAR GARDENING

should be used to produce plants for a hill
of cucumbers, squash, melons or other
"vining" plants which are started indoors,
as these do not stand transplanting if the
roots are disturbed. The pot or other
holder may be set into the ground without
disturbing the roots. Tomatoes, eggplants
and beans may also be started in this way.

Fig. 9 — Seed box for starting plants indoors.

WHEN TO PLANT

When heavy frosts are over, plant early
peas, onion sets and seed, early potatoes,
kale, lettuce and spinach. All of these will
stand light freezing except potato plants,
which should be covered with dirt when
frost threatens.

When frosts are about over plant radishes,
parsnips, carrots, beets, late peas and early
sweet corn, and set out cabbage and cauli-
flower plants. (An old and useful rule is
to "plant corn when the oak leaves are the
size of a squirrel's ear").

When all frosts are over and apple trees
are in bud, plant string beans and late
sweet corn, and set out a few early tomato
plants from the indoor boxes.

When apple trees have fin-
ished blossoming plant cucum-
bers, melons, squashes, lima
beans and set out the rest of
the indoor plants.

SEED BEDS

Plants for second crops
may be raised in an outdoor
seed bed occupying small space.
These plants may be grown

while the space allotted to

:„ *-V,r ,~,iAn ~1™ - Fig- 10— Straight rows add to the beauty of the garden and are easier to

s cultivate. The simplest way to lay them off is to stretch a line between

Still in use for earlier crops, two stakes and mark row with a hoe, hoe handle or stick.

factory results. There can be no absolute
rule as to the time of planting. The prob-
able time of the first frost in each locality
must be taken as a general guide. For
planting in August, and possibly even in
early September, the following vegetables
may be grown:

When first frost may be expected between
September 15 and September 25:

Lettuce, Spinach, Turnips, Parsley, Multiplier
Onions and Turnips. (Kale and Radishes may be
risked.)

When first frost may be expected between
September 20 and October 5 :

Kale, Lettuce, Parsley, Multiplier Onions, Radishes,
Spinach and Turnips. Beets and Chard for greens.

When first frost may be expected between
October 5 and October 15:

Beets for canning, Carrots, Kale, Multiplier Onions,
Spinach, Chard, Endive, Lettuce, Radishes and
Turnips.

When first frost may be expected between
October 15 and October 25:

Any of the vegetables mentioned in the preceding
lists. (String beans may be risked.)

LAYING OFF ROWS

Straight rows add to the garden's beauty
and make cultivation easier. To make the
rows straight stretch a stout string between
stakes and follow it with the point of a hoe,
with a wheel hoe, or with the end of the
handle of the rake or hoe, to open up the row.
The plan is suggested in Fig. 10.

The rows of seed are not
spaced so closely as in boxes used inside
the house. If the plants crowd each
other too much some of them may be re-
moved and transplanted to another part of
the garden. The seed bed plan is useful for
such crops as cauliflower, Brussels sprouts,
late cabbage and the like.

FALL PLANTING

It is well to plant a fall garden of some
crops, for in spite of the risk of injury by
early frost the chances are in favor of satis-

SUCCESSION OF CROPS

Nature generously provides for more than
one crop on the same soil. Vegetables which
reach maturity early in the season should be
followed by later crops of the same vegetable
or by rotation of other kinds. Onions to be
used green may be grown in rows which are
to be occupied by late tomato plants, as a few
of the onions may be removed to plant the
tomatoes. Radishes mature early and as
they are harvested the space may be used for
cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts

THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 11

and other plants. Many combinations of
this kind may be made to good advantage.

Fig. 11 — Beans planted at proper depth.

once a week than to sprinkle every day.
Late afternoon is the best time to sprinkle.

Fig. 12 — Lima beans, planted properly, with eyes down.

FOR CONTINUOUS CROPS

With some of the important vegetables a
series of plantings is desirable. Of string
beans, lettuce, radishes, spinach, sweet corn,
peas, beets and carrots there should be several
successive plantings, two or
three weeks apart, to provide
a fresh and continuous supply
all season.

DEPTH OF PLANTING

Do not plant too deeply.
The old rule is to plant to a
depth of 5 times the thickness
of the seed. This, however,
is not an absolute rule and
is not safe in all cases.
Consult planting table on
page 23 for depth.

HOEING

When the green rows ap-
pear it is time to start
hoeing or cultivating. Never
hoe or cultivate deeply — an
inch or two is deep enough —
but stir the ground frequent-
ly, and always after rain or
watering, as soon as it is dry
enough. The hoeing must
not be done after rain or
watering when the ground is
still so wet as to cause the
muddy earth to pack like
cement, as this causes the
earth to cake and dry out

-2

-3

surface of ground

altogether too rapidly, which is undesirable.
Frequent hoeing causes the formation of a
dust layer which prevents the soil underneath
from drying out. The garden should always
be kept free from weeds, as these, if permitted
to grow, consume plant food and moisture
needed by the plants.

WATERING

A plentiful supply of moisture is essential.
If there is not sufficient rainfall the moisture
should be provided by watering the garden.
In doing this it is better to soak the ground

Fig. 13 — A small potato planted
whole. The depth of planting here
shown is approximately 4^ inches to
the center of the potato. This is the
depth for late potatoes. Early po-
tatoes are planted 2 inches nearer

To moisten the surface is not enough.
There must be a thorough wetting. If pipe
connections are available a garden hose is
the best means of watering. One of the
most satisfactory methods is to open small
furrows between rows and
allow water to run into these
trenches, raking the earth
back into place several hours
later and making a mulch,
after the water has thor-
oughly soaked in. The
sprinkling pot will serve if
hose is not available, but it
is more laborious. Overhead
sprinklers are very satis-
factory. They consist of
pipes mounted on supports
extending the length of the
area to be watered. Holes
are drilled at intervals of 3
to 4 feet and small nozzles
are inserted which yield a
spray-like misty rain when
the water is turned on. By
turning the pipes and also
changing the position of them
it is possible to water an area
of any size.

In home gardens proper
drainage is often disregarded.
Drainage improves the soil
by allowing air to enter; by
raising the temperature of
the soil; by rendering the
soil more porous and granu-
lar; by enabling the roots of
plants to grow deeply into the soil and by
allowing earlier cultivation in the spring.

Blind ditches, partly filled with stones or
other material covered with soil, or open
ditches, will be found satisfactory for the
home garden. They should be along the
lowest level of the garden, and have suitable
outlet. Lacking an outlet, lay tile 12 inches
below surface of garden, slanting toward a
hole 10 feet deep and 5 feet across, in center
of garden. Fill this, two thirds to top, with
stones, covering stones with clay and covering
the clay with loam.

-5

WAR GARDENING

DIRECTIONS FOR VEGETABLE GROWING

POTATOES

As one of the staple needs of the household Potatoes are entitled to special attention in
Home Gardening and Community Gardening. In selecting for seed it is desirable to choose
medium to large, smooth, shallow-eyed potatoes. The best seed will produce the best crop.
Potatoes grow best in sandy loam or in a gravel loam. Heavy, sticky clay or loose sand is not
desirable soil. Potatoes should not be grown in the same place in the garden in which they
were grown the previous year. A rotation of three or four years is desirable.

Preparation of the soil should be done with care. The ground should be worked with
plow, spade and hoe, to a depth of 8 or 10 inches, and should be thoroughly broken up or
pulverized, then thoroughly worked with a steel-toothed rake. This preparation is of great
importance and should not be slighted. Attention to details is necessary to success.

Treat Seed for Scab

One of the most common diseases affecting
seed potatoes is scab. This attacks the skin
of the potato, causing it to thicken, and giving
it a scabby appearance. It is carried through
the winter, in soil, in manure and on the po-

Fig. 14 — Properly cut seed potatoes,
and is about the size of a hen's egg.

Each"piece has two good eyes

tatoes themselves. To control this affection
it is important that potatoes should be ro-
tated with other crops as to location, and the
same soil not used for potatoes except at
intervals of three or four years. A simple
remedy, easily applied, is to soak the seed
potatoes before planting, in a solution of
Formalin and water. This solution is made
of 1 ounce of Formalin (40 per cent formalde-
hyde), mixed in 2 gallons of water. In this
mixture soak the uncut potatoes for two
hours, and spread them out to dry. The
solution can be used on as many lots of
potatoes as desired.

Seed potatoes should be spread out in a
room in which they will be exposed to strong
light for two weeks before cutting, to start
sprouts and detect poor seed. If large po-
tatoes are used cut them into pieces weighing
from 1 to 2 ounces, each piece having at least
two eyes. If potatoes are scarce and expen-
sive the pieces may be cut to a single eye.
Do not cut the seed until it is to be planted.

Planting

For planting, prepare trenches or furrows
from 3 to 5 inches deep and from 24 to 36
inches apart. Plant seed pieces 3 inches
deep for early potatoes and 5 inches for late

varieties. The seed pieces should be 14 to
18 inches apart in rows, the smaller the pieces
the closer the planting. Fill the trench with
dirt, firming it in order that the moisture may
be brought in contact with the seed pieces
to assist in the process of germination.
Usually potatoes should not be planted as
late as the first week in July very
far north of the Mason and Dixon
line except in sections where it is
known that they will mature
before freezing weather arrives.

Cultivation

As soon as the potato plants
come up begin cultivating them.
The cultivation should begin be-
fore they come up if a crust forms.
Cultivate or hoe every week during the
season, to keep the surface in good condition.
When the plants are young work the soil up
around them to support the plants.

Potatoes are subject to diseases and in-
sects which are scheduled on page 21. Take
precautions to keep these from getting a
start. Follow instructions as to spraying

Fig. 15 — On the left is shown tuber sprouted in warm,
dark storage place. Such spouts sap vitality and
decrease yield. On the right is green sprouted tuber.
By this latter method the tuber retains its vitality
and a good yield is insured.

and keep at it during the season. It is
better to spray before trouble appears than
to take chances.

Dig early potatoes when they are of the
size desired. Late potatoes, for storing,
should not be dug until the leaves and stems
are dead, or until the skin is so firm that it
may not easily be rubbed off.

THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 13

SWEET POTATOES

Sweet potatoes are grown mostly in the
Southern States or where there is warm,
sandy soil, and are not especially recom-
mended for the home garden. If space
permits a few plants may be grown.

If you wish to grow your own plants
start a hotbed about six weeks before apple-
blossom time. Place 5 or 6 inches of sand
over the manure in the hotbed and lay
down small, healthy sweet pota-
toes, close together but not touch-
ing. Cover them with one or two
inches of sand ; water occasionally
to keep slightly moist. Sprouts
will soon begin to grow and
immediately send out roots into
the sand. When these sprouts
are four or more inches long they
may be pulled from the potatoes
and are rooted and ready to be
planted. They need not be pulled,
however, until time to plant them
in the garden, when all danger of
frost is past. They should be set
14 inches apart in rows 36 to 60
inches apart. If only a few plants
are wanted they should be pur-
chased from a seedsman, as the
trouble involved in growing them
in small quantities is too great to
make it worth while.

On land which is not thorougly
drained the plants should be set
on ridges -and these should be
made broad, as narrow ridges
will dry out too rapidly. The
ridges should be maintained during
the entire growing season.

Sweet potatoes should be dug
when the soil is dry and the
weather bright, before there is
danger of hard frosts. A spading
fork may be used in digging them.
Guard against bruising or injuring
them in digging and handling.
Let the roots lie out to dry for two
or three hours after digging.

Asparagus

Fig. 16 — Lima bean vine
on pole.

Use strong plants two years old,
which may be purchased from seedsmen. Set
them 18 inches apart, in rows 3 feet apart.
The rows should be 8 to 10 inches deep, with
width of 6 to 8 inches at bottom. After
spreading out roots cover crowns with 2
inches of soil. With the growth of the
shoots gradually fill in with earth until
level with surface. Careful cultivation is
required during the season. A small bed
heavily manured will furnish plants for
2 or 3 persons.

Beans

Beans form a staple crop which may be
raised in almost every climate. They need a
rich soil which holds moisture, but is well
drained. Frequent shallow cultivation must
be given and they must be kept growing with-

out a check until harvested. Never cultivate
while moisture is on vines.

Beans are susceptible to cold and for sure
results they should not be planted until
danger of frost is past. So little trouble is in-
volved in bean planting, however, that it is a
good plan to take a chance on making the first
planting as soon as the ground is reasonably
warm. If the first planting should be killed
by frost there is a good chance that the second
will come up and that it will
mature early. In this way a crop
will be assured early enough
to make it worth while to take the
small risk involved in the possible
loss of the early planting.

Dry shell beans are planted and
treated the same as string beans
are planted and treated. The
beans are allowed to mature in the
pods. They should be thoroughly
dried, shelled and stored as directed
for storage of seed on page 32.

String and lima beans are grown
alike. There are two sorts of each
— low bush vines and bean vines
that climb poles. Pole beans are
best for small gardens.

Plant beans and bush limas 1
inch deep, 4 to 6 inches apart in
rows.

Make successive plantings every
ten days until hot weather. In
late summer make successive
plantings of string beans until
eight weeks before the usual time
of first frost.

Plant pole beans and pole
limas in hills 1 inch deep, 4 seeds
to hill, hills 3 feet apart. Thin to
2 plants to the hill. Before plant-
ing fix firmly in each hill a pole 5
to 6 feet long. If desired have
two rows of hills and slant the
poles so that each set of 4 may
be tied together at the top like an
Indian teepee. This prevents the
poles from falling, but reduces the
yield of the vines.

Help the vines to start twining
around the poles from right to left.
Note: Plant lima beans with the "eyes"
of the seed downward.

Beets

Sow seed rather thickly in row, using 1 oz.
to 50 feet, but thin the young plants by
pulling until the survivors are 4 inches apart.
The pulled plants make fine greens for cook-
ing or canning.

Brussels Sprouts

Grown like cabbage.

Cabbage

Set plants from indoor seed boxes or
pots 15 inches apart in rows, the rows be-
ing 30 inches apart. Between these rows

WAR GARDENING

early lettuce, radishes, and other little
crops may be planted. Early cabbage should
be gathered as soon as it has formed solid
heads. Late cabbage may be stored in
trenches and covered with straw and earth.

—0

— 1

Fig. 17 — Corn, planted properly, at depth of 2 inches.

Carrots

Sow seed X mch deep, using % ounce
to 25 feet of row. Thin to 2 or 3 inches
apart when roots crowd each other.

Cauliflower

Grown the same as cabbages, except when
the heads form, the loose outer leaves should
be tied together over the heads to keep out
the light and bleach them.

Celery

Sow seed in seed boxes and set plants in
garden in June or July, 6 inches apart,
trenches 6 inches deep and 3 feet apart.
Make the trenches 6 to 8 inches wide at the
bottom so that rains will not wash the earth
over the young plants. As the plants grow,
cultivate the ground into the trenches.
When plants are large heap earth around
stalks to whiten them.

Celeriac

This is a large rooted form of celery. It
is grown like celery, except that the plants
do not need bleaching. The large root is
cooked for use. The plants should be pro-
tected in freezing weather by straw or
mulch (half-rotted manure and straw), and
dug when needed.

Corn, Sweet

Plant 5 or 6 seed 1 inch deep in hills 3
feet apart. When plants are 4 inches high
pull out all but 2 or 3 plants in each hill.
Make new plantings every 2 weeks until
July or August so as to have corn for use
during the entire season.

Cucumbers

Plant 8 to 10 seed 1 inch deep in hills 4
feet apart. Later thin to 2 plants per hill.
Do not plant until soil is warm and frosts
are over. ^ Hoe or cultivate only until plants
start to vine, then pull weeds by hand.

Eggplant

Little plants from seed boxes are set 2
feet apart in rows 3 feet apart.

Endive

In midsummer sow seed ^ inch deep
and later thin plants to 8 inches apart. To
blanch hearts raise leaves and tie together
over heart.

Kale

Sow seed }4 inch deep in rows 18 to 24
inches apart. Thin the plants until they
are from 6 to 8 inches apart in the rows.

Kohlrabi

Sow seed >£ inch deep and later thin
plants to 4 or 6 inches.

Lettuce

Sow seed y* inch deep in rows 1 foot apart
and later thin out until plants are 5 to 6
inches apart. There should be successive
plantings, but lettuce is not grown in ex-
tremely hot weather. Sow seed the last of
August and in September to be transplanted
to the cold frame in October.

Mint

Roots may be procured from a seedsman
or neighbor. Plant one or two clumps of
these roots in a corner of garden in the spring.

Muskmelon

Grown like cucumbers except hills must
be 6 feet apart.

Muskmelons are difficult to raise and
are not recommended to gardeners who
are not experienced in their culture.

Fig. 18 — Corn, planted properly in hill, at a depth of
2 inches and with corner kernels 3 inches apart.

Okra

Sow seeds when corn and beans are being
planted. Sow 1 inch deep a few inches apart
in rows 3 to 5 feet apart. Thin plants to 18
or 24 inches apart. Until plants are almost
grown cultivate frequently and not very
deeply.

Pick young pods every day to keep plant
bearing.

Onions

Onions will grow from seed or from bulbs,
called sets. It is better to use sets in home
gardens. For early green onions plant sets

THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 15

3 inches apart in rows 1 foot or more apart.
To grow from seed, plant the seed rather
thickly ^4 of an inch deep in rows and thin
them later until plants are 2 to 3 inches
apart. If sets for planting next spring are
desired, do not thin out any plants, but let
them crowd so they will remain small. Seed
may be planted in seed box or seed bed and
when transplanted placed 3 inches apart.

Parsley

Sow seed thinly yi inch deep, later thin-
ning plants when they crowd each other.

Parsnips

Sow seed thinly ^ of an inch deep in
rows 18 to 24 inches apart and later thin
plants to 3 inches apart.

Peas

An important factor in the successful raising
of garden peas is that the smooth-seeded type
are not easily damaged by light frost. Because
of this they may be planted early in the spring
— practically as soon as weather conditions
permit preparation of the ground. They may
be grown in almost any ordinary soil. The
best soil is sandy loam, well drained, and rich
with rotted manure. To give continuous
supply throughout the growing season make
successive plantings from one to two weeks
apart. For the earliest crops select the smooth-
seeded varieties of quick maturity. These
varieties require no supports. For later crops
select the large, wrinkled varieties.

-I

-4JH,

Fig. 19 — Peas, planted properly, at depth of 4 inches.

As soon as plants break through the ground,
cultivate. Continue to do this three or four
times a week until the vines lop over.

Peas should be planted in trenches 4 inches-
deep, the seed being covered with 2 to 3 inches
of soil. From 1 to 2 pints of seed will plant

100 feet of row. As the plants grow, grad-
ually fill in the trench around them. Let
the vines of the tall varieties grow up on
brush or poultry wire. The rows of peas
should be 3 to 4 feet apart, but if the space
is small it is desir-
able to plant double
rows 1 foot apart,
placing the brush
between these rows.

Peppers

Set young plants
from seed box 18
inches apart in row.
Pepper plants are
tender and should
not be set out until
the ground is warm.

Potatoes

For special in-
structions on Irish
and Sweet Potatoes
see pages 12 and 13.

Pumpkin

Plant in hills 8
to 10 feet apart,
using 8 to 10 seed
to a hill. Plant
seed 1 inch deep.
Later thin to 2 or 3
plants to a hill.

Fig. 20 — A tomato plant
should be tied with a strip
of cloth, at a height of ten
inches, again at about 18
inches and again at about
26 inches. The plant here
pictured is a good one from
which to save seed.

Radishes

Planted and grown the same as carrots.

Rhubarb

Procure roots from a neighbor or dealer
as seed .planting is not advised. Set them
3 to 4 feet apart, in rows or next to fence.
Use manure freely.

Salsify or Oyster Plant

Also called vegetable oyster. Grown like
carrots. Plants must be thinned to 3 inches
apart.

Spinach

Sow seed thickly 1 inch deep in rows
12 to 18 inches apart, for both early spring
and fall crops.

Squash

Grown the same as cucumbers or musk-
melon, except that the hills of Hubbard
squash should be 7 to 9 feet apart.

Sow seed
necessary.

Swiss Chard

inch deep. Thin out when

Tomatoes

Tomatoes form one of the favorite crops of
the home garden, as they will grow in all types
of soil. Sandy loam, with plenty of humus,
is ideal for growing tomatoes.

WAR GARDENING

If plants are grown in seed flats, hotbeds
or cold frames, follow the directions for
transplanting given on pages 9 and 10.
Plants suitable for setting out should be
4-6 inches high, having a thick stem and
dark green leaves. Begin cultivation as
soon as the plants are set. Cultivate deeply
and close to plants at first but later cultiva-
tion should be more shallow to prevent
injury to roots. Cultivate frequently to keep
the soil loose over the surface, so preventing
evaporation. Always cultivate after a rain.

When preparing seed flats, hotbeds, or
cold frames for tomato seed, use soil which
has never grown tomatoes. This insures
plants free from disease. It is not advisable
to plant tomatoes on land which has been
planted the previous year with white potatoes,
melons or tomatoes. To plant on such soil
increases the danger from disease and pests.

It is always advisable to train the plants to
stakes or other supports. They may be
trained on wires or on poultry wire fastened
on posts set about fifteen feet apart in rows.
Barrel hoops a foot apart fastened to stakes
eighteen inches apart are some times used.
To tie plant to support, loop the string
around the support and tie it under a leaf
stem. Remove all side branches at the axil
of the leaves as soon as they appear. Do
not remove flower clusters. When the plant
has reached a height of 5 feet cut off the top.

When three or four clusters of fruit have
formed and some of the fruit is as large as a
silver dollar prune the leaves at the base one
half. This hastens ripening.

Once a month apply a little commercial
fertilizer or compost around each plant.
Avoid the use of fresh or unrotted manure
as this produces too much leaf growth, the
fruit does not set and disease is encouraged.

Turnips

For early spring, plant % ounce of seed
to 50 feet of row, sowing them y? inch deep,
in rows 1 foot or more apart. For fall crop
% ou ice of seed to 50 feet of row, K" inch
deep, or make the rows 8 to 10 inches wide
and scatter seeds thinly in broad rows.

Vegetable Marrow

Plant 6 or 8 seed to a hill, one inch deep,
in hills 8 to 9 feet apart. Thin to 2 plants
to hill. Give the same care as for pump-
kins. The young and tender vegetable
marrow may be baked whole like sweet
potatoes or may be sliced and fried like
eggplant, or boiled like summer squash.

Watermelon

Plant 1 inch deep, 8 or 10 seed to each
hill, the hills 10 feet apart. Later thin to
2 plants to each hill.

Watermelons require much room and are
not recommended for small gardens.

DISEASE AND INSECT PREVENTION

Every garden is subject to attack from
insects and diseases. Your garden may not
be attacked, but it is wise to take advance
precautions. Spraying at occasional in-
tervals from the time the plants have made
their start until they are harvested is worth
while. A hand sprayer should be used to
distribute the necessary solutions on the
plants. Such sprayers may be bought in
various types. Some of them may be bought
for a dollar or less and others range up to
the neighborhood of $10 for the small,
compressed air type. The simplest and
cheapest type is the small atomizer sprayer
with hand pump and with glass receptacle

for holding mixture. (Figure 21.) Another
type, costing a little more, is the bucket pump.
(Figure 21.) If you have no spray pump a

Fig. 21 — Some of the best types of sprayer. At the left is a hand sprayer, which is one of the most satisfactory for
the small garden. The glass receptacle is better than metal. This sprayer can be bought for from 50 cents to
$2.00. In the center is a bucket sprayer which costs about $5.00. At the right is a compressed air sprayer, which
is highly efficient and costs from $5.00 to $10.00. One sprayer may be used by several families, or by community
gardeners, reducing the cost to each user.

THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 17

phate in about one-half gallon of hot water
and then dilute with enough cold water to
make a total of \% gallons; or wrap the
copper sulphate in a small piece of cheese-
cloth, fill a quart jar with cold water and sus-
pend the copper sulphate into the top of the
water; in a couple of hours it will be dis-
solved. In another vessel slake the lime
and dilute it with enough water to make 1>£
gallons. If hydrated lime is used simply
mix it with water. Then pour these two
solutions together, pouring the solution of
copper sulphate slowly into the mixture of
lime and water, stirring vigorously while this
process is under way. The stirring insures
proper mixing of the two.

Bordeaux mixture may be purchased in
concentrated form from seedsmen, but the

good substitute is the whisk broom, for
spattering the spray on plants. After using,
wash out pump and hose as some sprays will
corrode metal and others will rot hose. The
ordinary sprinkling pot may be used to apply
mixtures, but this is wasteful.

Buy Spraying Materials Early

Early purchase of spraying materials is
important. The supply will be limited and
the demand large. Make a list of the ma-
terials you will need, with amounts, and
place your order immediately. If you have
equipment from last season place your order
early for repair parts for pump, hose or
nozzle, especially extra couplings and hose
splicers for burst hose. If you delay until
the spraying season arrives you are likely to
fail to procure your supply. By
joining with friends or neighbors
and buying in quantities you can
procure materials at lower prices
than if buying alone.

For home mixing the poisons
and chemicals required for sprays
and other remedies and prevent-
ives can be bought at a drug or
seed store. The mixtures ready
prepared can be bought at a seed
store.

Diseases

The ordinary blights are usually
overcome by spraying with Bor-
deaux mixture, made as indicated
in the next paragraph. There

are some diseases, however, which pig. 22— Potato blights and their effect. At the left are shown leaves
cannot be overcome, and when afflicted with early blight, indicated by brown spots with concentric
trouble appears that does not

yield to treatment the affected

plants should be taken up and burned to

prevent the spread of the infection to others.

Bordeaux Mixture

Copper Sulphate, Blue Stone or Blue

Vitriol 3 ounces

Lump Lime or Hydrated Lime 3 ounces ',

Water 2% gallons

To make Bordeaux mixture procure the
ingredients at a drug or seed store. If lump
lime is used it must be fresh. Instead of
lump lime some authorities prefer fresh hy-
drated lime as being just as good and at the
same time much simpler to use, needing
only to be stirred into the water. Hydrated
lime is lime to which enough water to dry-
slake it has been added by the manufac-
turer. It is a powder and does not require
slaking.

For making or holding Bordeaux mixture
use containers of wood, glass or earthenware.
In one container dissolve the copper sul-

rings. At the right is shown late blight, with dark brown spots looking
water-soaked. These pictures should help in detecting trouble.

homemade mixture is better and cheaper.
Do not make more at one time than will be
needed within a short time. The mixture
is better and more effective if made fresh for
each spraying.

Sulphur

For the control of mildew, pulverized sul-
phur or flowers of sulphur, procured at a
drug or seed store, is dusted full strength on
the diseased plants. A tin can with small
holes punched in the bottom makes a good
sifter for this purpose, or a cheap flour sifter
may be used. The holes in a flour sifter are
the proper size for this purpose.

THE SUCKING INSECTS

For the destruction of insects which suck
the sap of plants, such as the true bugs and
the plant lice, or aphids, it is necessary to

WAR GARDENING

use a mixture which kills by contact or sub-
stances which smother. Aphids, or plant lice,
usually collect on the underside of leaves,
causing them to crumple. This crumpling
causes the edges of the leaves to turn down,
protecting the aphids. Badly crumpled
leaves should* be picked and burned. In
spraying be sure to apply the spray to the
underside of the leaves. Otherwise the
edges will serve as protection and prevent
the spray from reaching the entire plant
effectively.

Nicotine Sulphate Solution

To destroy the sucking insects use nico-
tine sulphate solution, made as follows:

Nicotine sulphate J£ ounce

Laundry or other soap ^ ounce

Water 2 gallons

Dissolve the soap and then add this and
the nicotine sulphate to the water.

Fig. 23 — Bean anthracnose is indicated by dark sunken
scab-like spots on pods. There are also spots on leaves.

Bordeaux and Nicotine Sulphate
Combination

A combination spray for plant diseases and
sucking insects is made thus:

Bordeaux mixture 2 gallons

Nicotine sulphate J^ ounce

Laundry or other soap ^ ounce

THE EATING INSECTS

The eating insects, or those which eat fruit
or foliage, may usually be killed by using a
spray of poisonous solution or by dusting

poison powders on the plants attacked.
Arsenate of lead, procured at a drug or seed
store, is a favorite poison for this purpose, and
may be used in spray or powder, but it must
be handled with care as it is poisonous to
human beings. It should never be applied
to vegetables that are soon to be used, nor on
cabbage or cauliflower after the heads have
begun to form. As an added precaution wash
carefully all vegetables before using, whether
they have been sprayed or not.

Arsenate of Lead Solution

Arsenate of lead spraying solution is made
by mixing 1 ounce of arsenate of lead powder
(or 2 ounces of paste) with 6 quarts of water.
If the arsenate of lead is used in paste form
instead of powder mix 2 ounces with 6 quarts
of water. The powder is more easily weighed
and handled. Keep the mixture well stirred
while spraying, to insure even distribution.

To apply arsenate of lead in dry form mix
1 ounce of the powder with 3 pounds of air-
slaked lime, dry road dust or ashes finely
sifted. Use a sifter for dusting this onto the
plants, while the plants are wet with dew or
rain.

Bordeaux-Arsenate of Lead Combination

Spraying with a combination of Bordeaux
mixture and arsenate of lead every two weeks
is a wise safeguard against both disease and
eating insects. To make this combination
spray use Bordeaux mixture instead of water
when preparing the arsenate of lead. By
using a combination spray half the labor of
spraying is saved.

In spraying cabbage and cauliflower with
Bordeaux and arsenate of lead before the
heads form, a little soap mixed with the
arsenate of lead will make it stick better.
Shave the soap, add a small quantity of water
and boil until the soap is dissolved or put it
in cold water and stir occasionally until dis-
solved. Cool and stir into the arsenate of
lead solution.

Paris green has long been used for pro-
tection, but arsenate of lead is now used
much more extensively and is considered
better.

Poisoned Bait

Poisoned bait is useful against cutworms
and slugs. Small portions of the bait should
be placed around plants subject to attack by
them. The pests feed at night and hide under
chips or other objects during the day. Bait
should be placed beneath these. Poisoned
bait may be made at home thus;

Wheat bran 1 pound

White arsenic, powdered J^ ounce

Cheap sirup 1 or 2 ounces

Water to make a thick mash of the mixture.

THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 19

on the surface of which a small quantity of
kerosene is floating. Insects collected by
hand should be destroyed immediately.

For slugs and snails sprinkle any form of
lime over plants and around where they
occur.

Some Other Forms of Protection

One form of protection against cutworms
is a collar 2 inches wide made of stiff paper,
placed around the stem of the plant and with
its lower edge inserted in the ground, to
prevent the pests from reaching both stem
and upper part of root.

Small frames covered with mosquito net-
ting or cheesecloth set over young plants will
protect them.

The bran and the white arsenic should be
mixed. Dilute the sirup with a little water
and pour this over the bran and white arsenic.
Stir well. Add enough water to make a thick
mash.

Liquid Poisoned Bait

Sodium Arsenate 1 ounce

Water 4 quarts

Molasses 1 pint

Dissolve the sodium arsenate in boiling
water and add the molasses. Flavor by add-
ing chopped pieces of vegetable of the kind
which is to be sprayed. Apply with a whisk
broom.

Removing Insects by Hand

The larger eating insects may be removed
by hand or knocked off into a pan of water

GUARD AGAINST DISEASES AND INSECTS

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound
of cure in the matter of controlling diseases
and insects. Clean garden soil aids in keep-
ing out insects and disease. All plants
purchased should be healthy and free from
disease. The roots should not be swollen
or knotted. Treat Irish potatoes for scab
before planting. Do not plant cabbage
having clubroot or sweet potatoes affected
with black-rot.

Many insects carry disease and spores
from one plant to another as well as attack-
ing the crops directly.

Avoid wounding or bruising plants and
vegetables when cultivating and harvesting
them, to prevent certain insects from gaining
access to them.

Have order, neatness and cleanliness in
the garden. In the fall turn under promptly,
all vegetation so that insects and disease
spores may not find winter quarters. Keep
down all weeds, as a great many insects feed
naturally upon them. All diseased plants which
remain at the end of the season should be
burned, as should all rubbish which is of such
character that it will not decay and is there-
fore not useful in making compost. This
includes trash, sticks and the like. It may
seem like a waste of vegetable matter to
burn the dead tomato vines, bean vines and
other plant tops which have been diseased,
but this should be done because to save or
compost these for fertilizer would simply be
maturing and saving millions of disease
spores which would be on hand ready to
attack the crops next year. More than this,
a clean garden appeals to the eye and to the
pride of the owner as a winter landscape.

Corn stalks, cabbage leaves and stumps,
beet tops if not canned, and other healthy
plants should be saved for mulching or be
added to the compost heap.

The remnants of vegetable matter, which
are not infected with disease or insects,
should be made into compost heaps for the
coming year and covered with stable ma-

Fig. 24 — Emphasizing the importance of spraying. On
the left is, a potato plant which was not sprayed. The
ravages of the potato bug are plainly shown. On the
right is a plant which was properly sprayed as a pre-
ventive measure.

nure and dirt to hasten decay, as decayed
vegetable matter enriches the soil. (Direc-
tions for making a compost heap are given
on page 5). Plowing or deep spading in
the fall is important, as it breaks up the
winter homes of underground insect pests.
Rotation of crops also lessens the danger of
attacks from insects and diseases.

TAKE NO CHANCES

Too much emphasis cannot be placed
on the need for taking precautions
against diseases and insects. Familiar-
ize yourself with such diseases and
insects as prevail in your neighborhood
on the crops you plan to raise. Then
provide yourself in advance with
remedies and equipment. Watch care-
fully for first signs of trouble and
apply remedies at once. Inspect your
garden every two or three days.

20 WAR GARDENING

PREVENTIVES AND REMEDIES

NOTE : It is important that immediate attention be given insects and
as soon as they appear. Delay in spraying or removal may prove fatal.

ASPARAGUS

Rust — (Rusty appearance of leaves and stems). —
Procure rust resistant variety, such as Reading
Giant or Palmetto.

Beetles — (Eat young stems and leaves).

Remedy : On young plants spray with arsenate
of lead when pests appear, repeating 10 days later
and again 10 days later if necessary. Add an
ounce of laundry soap per gallon of spray to make
it stick to the foliage. Do not use arsenate of
lead on new stems used for food during cutting
season. On old plants, spray after cutting
season. Nicotine sulphate sprayed on the young
insects will kill all it hits.

BEETS

Leaf spot — (Reddish and purple spots, turning ashy
gray). — Usually not affecting garden beets.

Remedy: Spray with Bordeaux mixture when
plants are 3 to 4 inches high, repeating 2 and 4
weeks later.
Web worm— (Eats the leaves).

Remedy: Spray with arsenate of lead when
worms appear; repeat when necessary.

Spinach aphis — (Sucks sap f^m leaves).

Remedy: Spray with nicotine sulphate when
pests appear and repeat when necessary. In
order to strike the aphids the spray must be
directed against the undersides of the leaves.
Beet-root aphis — (Sucks sap from roots).

Remedy: Pour a small amount of. nicotine
sulphate spray around roots and repeat if necessary.

BUSH BEANS

Anthracnose — (Dark, sunken spots, scab-like, on
pods; spots on leaves). — Pick and burn diseased
pods. In saving seed discard those from diseased
plants, as seed carry the infection.

Leaf beetles — (Very small, dark or pale stripes; eat
leaves).

Remedy: Spray with arsenate of lead when
pests appear, repeat in 10 days and later if neces-
sary. Bordeaux mixture repels but does not kill.

Aphids or plant lice — (Suck sap from plant and
make leaves crumple).

Remedy: Spray with nicotine sulphate when
pests appear, repeating when and as often as
necessary. Crumpled leaves protect lice from
spray, and should be picked and burned. Ap-
ply spray to underside of leaves, to strike aphids.

Bacterial blight— (Water soaked spots on leaves
and pods). — No satisfactory remedy. Pull up
and burn plants.

Downy Mildew — (thick white growth). — Burn all
diseased pods. Spray with Bordeaux mixture,
repeating every ten days if necessary.

CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER

Club root — (Root swells and decays). — Pull up and
burn plants.

Preventive: In spring apply 1 Ib. lime to each
8 sq. ft. of ground before setting out plants.
Black rot — (Leaves turn yellow, then brown and
black and decay. Pull up and burn plants.)

Preventive: Soak seed 15 minutes in solution
made of J£ oz. formalin and 3 pints water; rinse
in clean water; plant at once.

Yellows — (Leaves turn yellow, then brown, and drop).
Pull up and burn plants.

Preventive: Treat seed as for black rot.
Cabbage worms — (Eat leaves).

Remedy: When worms appear spray with
arsenate of lead, repeating if necessary before
heads form. Add an ounce of laundry soap per
gallon of spray to make it stick to the leaves.
not use arsenate of lead later than 3
before using or marketing cabbage.
Aphids or lice — (Suck sap from leaves).

Remedy: Spray with nicotine sulphate solu-
tion when pests appear; repeat if necessary.
Cabbage looper— (Eats leaves).

Remedy: Treat as for cabbage worms.

Cabbage Maggots — (Tunnel inside of roots).

Preventive: When plants are set out take a
piece of tarred building paper 2 or 3 inches in
diameter, cut a slit from one side to center, and
4 or 5 slits at center. Fit this around stem by
slipping plant through the long slit, and press
paper firmly against ground, to prevent young
maggots from reaching root.

Black leg — (Diseased, sunken areas on stem, leaf
stem and leaves, plant becoming purplish). —
There is no remedy. Pull up and burn plants.

Preventive: Disinfect seed for 10 minutes with
1 tablet of corrosive sublimate mixed in 1 pint
of water.

Cutworms — (Dark colored, eat young plants off at
surface of earth).

Remedy: Spread poisoned bran mash over
ground before setting out plants; spread around
plants when set. Afterwards spread poisoned bait
around plants as necessary to control worms.
It is wise to wrap paper around stem from leaves
to root just before setting out. Cutworms are
especially abundant where sod has grown.

CELERY AND CELERIAC

Blight or leaf spot — (Gray or brown spots, drooping
stems).

Remedy: Spray young seedlings, in seed box
or seed bed, with Bordeaux mixture. Spray
again as soon as set in garden, repeating 10 to
14 days later. Repeat again if necessary. Spray-
ing in seed bed must not be neglected if disease
appears.

SWISS CHARD

Leaf spot — (Symptoms same as with beets).

Remedy: When disease appears, spray as di-
rected for beets. (Usually no spraying will be
found necessary). Wash sprayed leaves well
before using.

Damping off — (Small seedlings dying in seed bed).

Preventive: Care should be taken to water

and partially shade the young seedlings in hot

and dry weather. As soon as seed are planted

cover bed with thin layer of sand.

SPINACH

•

Aphids — (Suck sap from leaves).

Remedy: Spray under side of leaves with
nicotine sulphate, when aphids appear. Repeat
a second and third time if necessary.

THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE

CORN

Smut — (Large, black, irregular swellings on ears
or tops). The only remedy is to cut off and burn
the smut swellings.

Cornear worms — (Bore through husk and eat the
young kernels). Kill all worms which are found
when husking corn for use.

Cutworms — (A dark worm which cuts plant off at
surface of earth when plant is small).

Remedy: Use poisoned bait in the same
manner prescribed for cabbage. Repeat if nec-
essary. Being a night worker the cut-worm is
usually found in the morning in the ground by
cut off plants. Dig out and kill.

Seed Corn Maggot — (Tunnels in seed, sprouts and
stems of plants). — Apply liquid poisoned bait
with a whisk broom.

CUCUMBERS

Anthracnose — (Brown spots on leaves).

Remedy: Spray with Bordeaux mixture when
plants begin to form vines. Repeat two or three
times if necessary, at intervals of 2 weeks.

Downy mildew — (Yellow spots on leaves).
Remedy: Treat as for anthracnose.

Wilt — (Leaves droop and wilt quickly). — Pull up and
burn plants. Striped beetles act as carriers of this
disease and should be controlled carefully.

Stink bug or squash bug — (Sucks sap from leaves
and injects an injurious substance).

Remedy: Pick them or shake them into pan
of water and kerosene. Destroy egg masses.
Place small pieces of boards near hills. The
bugs will collect underneath these and may
be easily crushed.

Striped beetle or 12-spotted beetle— (Both eat
leaves).

Preventive: Cover young plants with protectors
of cheesecloth or wire gauze.

Control: Mix arsenate of lead in the Bordeaux
mixture which is used for diseases. Another
remedy is to cover leaves with tobacco dust.
Treatment should be given as soon as beetles
appear, or when covers are removed. Repeat 5
days later and again 5 days later, with further
repetitions when necessary.

Vine borer — (Worm which bores into vine at surface
of earth).

Remedy: Carefully cut the vine lengthwise,
remove borer and kill. As plants grow throw
earth over vine at every other joint, in order that
new roots may form and to keep the vine growing.

EGGPLANT

Blight or wilt — (Whole plant wilts). — No remedy.

Pull up and burn plants.
Flea beetle — (Small jumping beetle which eats

leaves).

Remedy: Spray with Bordeaux mixture and

arsenate of lead combination.

ONIONS

Thrips — (Very small sucking insects, which cause
leaves to turn a silvery color or whitish, and
later to curl and twist).

Remedy: Spray with nicotine sulphate solu-
tion when pests appear, repeating once or twice as

Cutworms — (Dark worms which attack onions as
they do corn).

Remedy: Same as with corn.

Onion Maggot — (Eats bulb, inducing decay). —
Remedy: Apply liquid poisoned bait with a
whisk broom.

Anthracnose — (Dark sunken spots in fruit; cracks in
leaves).

Remedy: Spray with Bordeaux mixture when
plants are set, repeating 10 days later and again
10 days later.

PEAS

Powdery mildew — (Covers plant with powdery
white growth).

Remedy: Use pulverized sulphur or flowers
of sulphur, or Bordeaux mixture, by sprinkling on
plants when mildew appears, just before bloom
appears. Repeat if necessary two weeks later
and again 2 weeks later.
Pea Aphis.

Remedy: Same as for bean aphis.

POTATOES

Early blight — (Brown spots, with concentric rings on
leaves. Worst in moist weather.)

Remedy: Spray with Bordeaux mixture when
plants are 6 inches high. Repeat two weeks
later and again two weeks later.

Late blight — (Dark brown spots on leaves, appearing
water soaked and f not having concentric rings.
The spots become yellow and the leaves die.
Worst in hot, sultry weather, August and Septem-
ber. Lives over winter in seed potatoes.)
Remedy: Same as for early blight.

Colorado potato beetle — (The common potato bug,
which eats leaves).

Remedy: Spray with arsenate of lead when
beetles appear. Repeat when and as often as is
necessary. Hand picking is effective, as is also
knocking the bugs into a pan of water containing
some kerosene.

Blister beetle— (Long black potato bug or old fash-
ioned potato bug. Eats leaves.)

Remedy: Same as for Colorado potato beetle.
Flea beetle — (Small, jumping insect which eats leaves,
usually appearing when plant is small).
Remedy: Spray as for Colorado potato beetle.

SWEET POTATOES

Beetles— (Eat foliage).

Control: Spray with arsenate of lead and
lime.

Cutworms — (Worms which cut plants off at the
surface of earth).

Control: Use poisoned bait in the same manner
as prescribed for cabbage.

PUMPKIN

This plant is subject to the same diseases and insects
as cucumber, and should be treated the same way.

Black Rot — (Black, sunken and nearly circular spots
appear on tubers. It begins as small spots on
stems and spreads until the stems rot off. )

Control: Use only sound healthy tubers to
produce healthy plants.

RUTABAGA

This plant is subject to the same pests as cabbage and
should be treated the same way.

22 WAR GARDENING

AVOID WASTE— STORE, CAN OR DRY

The home gardener must remember that his responsibility does not end with the
maturity and harvesting of his crops. Authorities are agreed that after several years
of war 1919 will see the world's food shortage more marked than ever before. For
this reason the matured crops must be considered as only a beginning. Garden products
must be put by for winter use in order that the abundance of the growing season may
be made to supply the needs of the months of non-production.

EVERY POUND OF THE SUMMER'S CROP THAT CAN BE SPARED FROM
THE SUMMER DIET MUST BE STORED, CANNED OR DRIED IF AMERICA
IS TO GIVE THE WORLD THE FULL WORTH OF HER HOME GARDEN
PRODUCTION. NOTHING MUST GO TO WASTE.

Vast quantities of foodstuffs must be sent overseas to feed the people of starving
Europe. In order that a sufficient volume of exportable food may be available for this
purpose it is imperative that the home-grown foodstuffs be made to supply this coun-
try's household needs, as far as possible, for the coming winter.

For home storage complete directions are given in Part II of this book.

For home canning and home drying full details are given in a manual issued by the
Commission. The book also contains directions for jelly making, the making of fruit
butters, pickling, fermentation and salting.

For a copy of the book on canning, drying, etc., write to the National War Garden
Commission, Washington, D. C.

RADISH RHUBARB

Cabbage maggot— (Small worm which tunnels into FIea beetle— (Eats smallTholes in the leaves).

theradish). Remedy: Same as for flea beetle of potato.

. Preventive: Sprinkle tobacco dust along row applied when beetles first appear and repeated

when seed is planted, or spread sand on which when necessary.
kerosene has been sprinkled along the row when
plants are small. Burn all plants that may be

TURNIP SQUASH

Subject to the same diseases and insects as cabbage. This'plant is subject to the same diseases and insects as

and should be treated the same way. cucumbers and should be treated the same way.

TOMATOES

Leaf spot, or blight — (Leaves become spotted, turn Wilt — (Causes plant to wilt and die). — Pull up and

yellow and drop; stems dry up and fruits drop). burn plants.

Tomato worms-(Large green naked caterpillar,

Fruit rot— (Decay begins at blossom end of fruit). Cutworms— (Dark worms which cut plants off at the

Preventive: In the absence of an effective surface of earth).

remedy the only safeguard is to cultivate well and Remedy: Same as with cabbage.

be careful to water as the plants need.

Anthracnose — (Sunken, discolored spots in fruit, Flea beetle — (Small jumping beetle which eats small
followed by decay). holes in leaves).

Remedy: Same as for leaf spot. Remedy: Same as with potatoes.

WATERMELON

Anthracnose — (Brown spots on leaves; small sunken Insects — This plant is subject to the same insects as
spots on fruit). cucumber and should be treated the same way.

Remedy: Spray with Bordeaux mixture when
melons are half grown. Repeat 10 days later and
again if necessary.

YOUR QUESTIONS WILL BE ANSWERED

This Commission maintains a Department of Household Science which will welcome
questions connected with Gardening, Canning, Drying and kindred subjects. Tech-
nically trained workers, of practical experience, will give prompt attention to all in-
quiries. Address Department of Household Science, National War Garden Com-
mission, Washington, D. C.

THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 23

PLANTING TABLE

Vegetable

Quantity
required
for 100
feet of row

Distance Apart
In Inches

Depth of
Planting
Inches

Time of Planting

Mature
(In days,
except as
noted)

Rows

In Row

Asparagus, seed ....
Asparagus, plants. . .

1 oz
60 to 80
Y2 to 1 pt. . .

Yi to 1 pt. . .
2 oz ........

12 to 24
36 to 48
20 to 24
36 to 48
18 to 24

3 to 5

Htol....
8 to 10....

Early spring

3 to 4 yrs. .
1 to 3 yrs. .
40 to 65.. .
50 to 80...
60 to 90. . .

60 to 80...
60 to 80...
60 to 80...

90 to 130..
90 to 130..
75 to 110..

100 to 130.

120 to 150.
60 to 80. . .
60 to 100..
30 to 40...
60 to 80...

100 to 140.
90 to 180. .
1 to 2 yrs..

90 to 120..
60 to 80...
60 to 90...

120 to 150.
60 to 90...
130 to 150.

90 to 120. .

90 to 120..
125 to 160.
40 to 80...

100 to 140.
80 to 140..
100 to 130.
100 to 140.
20 to 40...
1 to 3 yrs. .
60 to 80...
120 to 180.

30 to 60. . .
60 to 80...
120 to 160.
100 to 140.

80 to 100. .
60 to 80...
110 to 140.
100 to 120.

15 to 20
4 to 6

Early spring

April to August
May and June
May and June

April to June
April to July
April to August
March and April
(Start in hotbed dur-
ing February)

Beans, pole
Beans, Lima, bush. .

Beans, Lima, pole. . .
Beets

Hills 24-36....
4 to 6.

36 to 48

Hills 24 to 36

12 to 18
24 to 30
24 to 30

24 to 36
18 to 24
24 to 30

18 to 36

18 to 24
30 to 36
12 to 18

5 or 6 to ft. ...
16 to 24

to 2

Brussels sprouts ....
Cabbage, early

Cabbage, late
Carrot

Xoz
1 oz

12 to 18

16 to 24
6 or 7 to ft. ...
14 to 18

4 to 8

Yz
H

May and June

April to June
April to June (Start in
hotbed during Feb-
ruary or March). . . .
May and June. (Start
in hotbed during
March or April). . . .
April to July

Cauliflower

1 packet
Yt. oz

Celery

Chard

4 to 6 to ft

Yt pt

30 to 36
4 to 5 toft
48 to 72
18 to 24

1 to 2...

y2toi....
y2 to i'. '.'.'.

3 to 4

May to July

March to May

Yi oz

48 to 72
24 to 36

April to July

Eggplant

April and May. (Start
in hotbed during
March)

1 oz

18. ..

8 to 10
4 to 6
6 to 8

4 to 6. . .
4 to 6

Midsummer

Horse-radish
Kale

70 roots

24 to 30
18 to 24

18 to 24.. .
12 to 18
72 to 96

36 to 48
12 to 18
12 to 18

12 to 18

18 to 24.. .
36 to 48
18 to 24

24 to 36
36 to 60
96 to 144. . . .
12 to 18
36 to 60

Early spring

Early spring and Aug-
ust and September. .
April to August

Kohlrabi
Lettuce

Yioz
Yz oz

March to September. . .
April to June. (Start
early plants in hot-
bed during March) . .
May and June
April and May

Muskmelon. .

Hills 72

Okra, or gumbo ....
Onion seed

2oz
1 oz

24 to 30
5 or 10 to ft ...
4 or 5 to ft

3 to 6

4 or 6 toft
15 to ft
15 to 18.. .

1 to 2

Htol....
Ito2

Htol....
3 to 4

Onion, sets
Parsley

Iqt

Autumn and March to
May
Early spring and Sep-
tember

Parsnip
Peas

y^ oz
1 to 2|pts. . . .

April and May
March to June
May and June. (Start
early plants in hot-
bed during March) . .
March to June

Pepper

Potato, Irish
Potato sweet

5lbs
75 slips

14 to 18. . .

3 to 5
2 to 3
1

14
96 to 144

March to June
May

Pumpkin
Radish

Rhubarb plants

Hoz
1 oz
33

8 or 12 to ft. . .
36 to 48

*Nb'TE"
Yztol...

ito2*.!!!
i

March to September. . .
Early spring
May and June
Early spring
September or very
early spring

Rutabaga

4 oz

18 to 24
18 to 24
12 to 18

36 to 48.. .
84 to 120....
36 to 48
36 to 48

18 to 24
96 to 144...
96 to 120. . . .

6 to 8.. .

Salsify . .

2 to 4
7 or 8 to ft. ...

Hills 36 to 48

Spinach

1 oz

Squash, bush
Squash, late
Tomato, seed
Tomato, plants

Yi oz ....

April to June

Hi Is 84 to 108.
30 to 36.

y^ oz

y2toi....

May and June. (Start
early plants in hot-
bed during February
and March)
April and August
April to June
May

33 to 40

30 to 36

6 or 7 to ft. .
Hills 96 to 108 .
96 to 120

I4to2.2.'
1

Veg. marrow
Watermelon

Y oz

H oz

* NOTE. — Set rhubarb plants so that growing tips are at surface of ground.

Absolute dates for planting can not be given, because of variations in seasons
from year to year and varying climatic conditions in different sections. For general
guidance see "When to Plant," on page 10.

PART II

HOME STORAGE MANUAL FOR
VEGETABLES AND APPLES

No form of Food Conservation is more important than the home storage
of vegetables for winter use. Canning and drying are essential to the nation's
food supply, and should be practised to the fullest possible extent, but they do
not take the place of storage. To keep vegetables in their natural state is the
simplest form of preparation for winter needs. By taking proper precautions
against decay and freezing an abundant supply of certain kinds of fresh
vegetables may be kept at minimum expenditure of money and effort.

STORAGE HELPS SOLVE FOOD PROBLEM

The importance of making provision for
winter food needs is even greater this year
than it was in 1918. Every pound of food-
stuffs that can be spared for export will be
needed in Europe for feeding American
troops and to prevent the starvation of the
domestic and military populations of the
Allied nations. Every pound of vegetables
stored away for home uses will release ex-
portable food. A nation with a food short-
age is a nation in peril. For this reason
it is of vital importance that no vegetables
of high food value be allowed to go to
waste. To save is to be patriotic.

The home gardening campaign conducted
by the National War Garden Commission
will this year result in the creation of a vast
new planting area. The output of these
gardens is greatly in excess of immediate
needs. Unless proper steps are taken to
safeguard the surplus the waste will be pro-
digious. This Commission will stimulate
nation-wide activity in canning and drying.
An important purpose of this booklet is to
arouse similar interest in the storage of
vegetables.

WHAT AND HOW TO STORE

There are many vegetables which can
be stored to good advantage. Included in
the list are Potatoes, Beets, Carrots, Parsnips,
Onions, Sweet Potatoes, Celery, Salsify,
Cabbage, Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, Win-
ter Squash, Turnips, Beans and Lima Beans.
Good results in storage depend upon:

1 — Ventilation.

2 — Regulation of temperature.

3 — Sufficient moisture.

4 — Quality of vegetables stored.

For some vegetables satisfactory storage
places are afforded by the pantry shelf or
attic. For others the cellar is the right
place. For others outdoor storage is pref-
erable. This may take the form of pits or
banks, or it may be done in hillside caves
or cellars.

COMMUNITY STORAGE

Especially good results may be obtained
if several neighboring families will form
community clubs to provide storage facili-
ties. In this way very complete provision
may be made for handling winter supplies
at slight trouble and expense to the indi-
vidual household.

Community or co-operative storage may
be effected in various ways. Several fami-
lies may join together and construct out-
door cellars or they may join in the use of
an available building conveniently located
in which vegetables may be stored in large
quantities.

CELLAR STORAGE

Beets
Cabbage
Carrots
Celery

Parsnips
Potatoes
Salsify
Turnips

In a house heated by a cellar furnace
vegetables may be stored to good advantage
in the cellar. Partition off a small room as
far as possible from the heating plant. Two
sides of this room should be outside walls.
There should be at least one outside win-
dow, for temperature regulation and venti-
lation. The suggested arrangement in Figure
1 shows ventilation afforded by a stove-

STORE YOUR SURPLUS FOR WINTER

Fig. 1 — This suggests an arrangement for storage in a cool cellar. An earth floor is best, as it gives off some mois-
ture. If the floor is of concrete it should be covered with 2 or 3 inches of sand and this should be sprinkled with
water occasionally. In the drawing a pane in the upper part of one window is shown to be missing. This
is to allow the escape of heated air. In severely cold weather close these openings. The stove pipe fitted into
the place for one of the lower panes admits cold air. Instead of a stove pipe a wooden flue, made of old boards
or parts of boxes, may be used. Bins and boxes should be placed on slats to lift them from the floor and allow
circulation. For this same purpose bins and boxes should be at least one or two inches from the wall. Air holes
bored in sides and bottom of bins and boxes help circulation. Protect glass jars from light.

pipe inserted through one of the lower
panes of the window, to admit cold air and
indicates the removal of one of the upper
panes of glass to allow the escape of warm
air. This affords constant circulation.

An earth floor is desirable, but this is not
always possible, as most city and many town
and country houses have floors of concrete.
In a cellar with a concrete floor the concrete
should be covered with two or three inches
of sand, which should be sprinkled with water
from time to time.

In this room may be stored Beets, Car-
rots, Cabbage, Celery, Parsnips, Salsify,
Turnips and Potatoes. (Special attention is
given Potatoes on page 28.) Put them in
bins or in boxes, baskets, slat crates or bar-
rels. It is best to use movable containers
and small ones. Bins should not hold more
than two or three bushels apiece, as the
larger bulk brings danger of heating and
consequent decay. There should be full
protection from mice.

The vegetables should be harvested when
the ground is dry, if possible, and should
lie outdoors a few hours until any surface
moisture on them has evaporated. Remove
the tops, leaving an inch or so, from beets,
turnips, carrots and salsify. To leave an
inch or so of top prevents bleeding and dry-
ing out. Sort vegetables according to size
and condition. Imperfect or bruised ones
should be selected for immediate use and
only sound vegetables should be stored.

In cellar storage beets, turnips and carrots
may be buried in slightly damp sand to good
purpose.

Cabbages may be stored in the cellar in
boxes or barrels of earth or sand, or they may
be placed in a cool cellar on the floor with
roots up.

Celery, to be stored in a cellar, should be
allowed to stay in the garden until there is
danger of severe freezing. In order to pro-
long the period of keeping it outdoors the
plants should be protected from frost by
banking them with earth to within two or
three inches of the tops. On cold nights
protect the tops with paper, burlap, mats,
straw or other covering. The importance of
not harvesting at the first appearance of frost
arises from the fact that this period is likely
to be followed by warm weather, which will
cause decay by creating too high a tempera-
ture in the place of storage. With the arrival
of steady cool weather, which will freeze the
plants, dig them, leaving some soil adhering
to the roots. For cellar storage place the
plants upright, covering the roots with three
or four inches of sand or light soil. (Fig. 2.)
Earth may be banked around the stalks but
this is not necessary. Water the soil oc-
casionally, being sure to keep the leaves and
stalks dry to prevent decay.

Celery may also be stored in cellar boxes,
following these same directions.

The cellar storage room may also be used
for the storage of fresh fruits and for canned
goods, preserves and dried vegetables and
fruits. Fig. 1 shows a suggested arrange-
ment for shelves for canned and dried articles.
If the shelves are not protected from light
by doors all canned goods in glass should be
wrapped in brown paper, to prevent bleaching

HOME STORAGE

of the contents as a result of exposure to the
light.

Wide fluctuations of temperature should
be avoided. The ideal temperature is 40
degrees F. The root cellar should be kept
at not less than 32 degrees and not over
50 degrees.

PIT STORAGE

Beets Potatoes

Carrots Turnips

Cabbage Salsify

Celery Parsnips

For outdoor storage one of the best forms
is a mound shaped pit. To prepare for this
remove two or three inches of earth and
line this shallow excavation with hay, straw,
leaves or similar material. Place the vege-
tables on this in a conical pile. Cover the
vegetables with several inches of the material
used in making the lining. Cover this with
3 or 4 inches of earth. As severe weather
approaches the outer covering should be
increased. An additional layer of hay or
similar material may be placed over the
layer of earth and on top of this another layer
of earth. In extremely cold climates the
total thickness of earth layers should be as
much as 12 inches. Over the outer layer of
earth pile manure or corn stalks for added
protection. To give ventilation have the
inner layer of straw project through the outer
covering and extend to the top of the cone.
For protection from rain and snow this
opening should be covered. A board laid
over the top and weighted with a stone is

Fig. 2 — For storage in cellar without heater celery
should be set in two or three inches of sand or light
soil and the plants then banked with soil. The soil
must not be allowed to become dry.

suitable for this purpose. An idea of the
construction is given in Fig. 5.

It is well to make several small pits rather
than one large one, for the reason that when a
pit has been once opened the entire contents
should be removed. This form of storage is
used for potatoes, beets, carrot, turnips,
parsnips, cabbage and salsify. It is well to
store several varieties of vegetables in one
pit so that the opening of a single pit will

afford a supply of all of them. In following
this plan it is desirable to separate the various
crops by the use of straw or leaves.

When a pit has been opened it is impossible
to give adequate protection to vegetables
therein. For this reason those not required
for immediate use should be removed, placed
in the basement storage room, or other cool

Fig. 3 — Shallow bins or shelves with board sides, for
storing root crops in cool cellar. The air of the room
must not be allowed to become too dry, as this will
cause the vegetables to shrivel. Potatoes must be
protected from light.

place, and used as needed. This emphasizes
the importance of making small pits, each
one holding not more than two to six weeks'
supply.

Instead of making a dirt pit, barrels may
be used in which to place vegetables. (Fig.
8.) Make a slight depression the length of
the barrel and put in a thick layer of straw or
leaves. On this place the barrel. Cover the
barrel with successive layers of straw or
leaves, and dirt. As the weather grows colder
put on more dirt until there is from 14 to 18
inches of covering. For ease in opening
make a door at one end, against which pile
earth and manure of sufficient thickness to
prevent freezing.

Cabbage

For late varieties of cabbage the pit should
be long and narrow. The cabbages are placed
in rows with heads down and covered with
dirt. No other covering is needed. The
removal of a portion of this supply does not
disturb the remainder. (Fig. 6.)

Cabbages may also be stored by placing
the whole plants in a trench, roots down and
plants close together. The roots should be
covered with dirt. A frame should be built
around the trench by driving stakes at the
corners and placing boards against these to
form the enclosure. The construction of
such a trench is shown in Fig. 7. The boards
are banked with earth and across the top of
the trench boards or poles are placed, sup-
ported by the frame. These should be cov-
ered with straw, hay or corn fodder, for pro-
tection of the contents of the trench. Two
feet of the straw or similar material will be
required in cold climates.

Mature heads of cabbage of long-keeping
sorts, such as Danish Ball Head, may be cut

STORE YOUR SURPLUS FOR WINTER

from the plant and stored one layer deep on
shelves in cool, frost-proof cellars.

Celery

In storing celery in a pit or trench, the
plants are set side by side as close as they
may be packed and wide boards set up

tially underground. A side-hill location is
desirable for ease in handling the vege-
tables. To make such a cellar dig an excava-
tion and in this erect a frame by setting
posts in rows near the dirt walls. Saw
these posts off at uniform height and place
plates on their tops. On these plates place
rafters. Board up completely
with the exception of a place
for the door. The whole should
be covered with dirt and sod,
and in cold climates added pro-
tection should be given by a
layer of straw, fodder or simi-
lar material. Ventilate with a
flue. A dirt floor is best, as
some moisture is desirable. This
form of storage is especially
good for the joint use of several
families.

On a more pretentious scale
cellars of this nature may be
made of brick, stone or concrete.
Such cellars afford practically
perfect storage room for pota-
toes, carrots, cabbages, parsnips,
beets, turnips and salsify.

Fig. 4 — For squashes, sweet potatoes and pumpkins shelves near furnace
afford good storage.

along the outside edges of the pit. Dirt is
banked up against these boards and the top
covered with corn fodder or similar covering.
If celery is kept in the row where grown the
earth should be banked around the plants
with the approach of cold weather. For
freezing weather bring the dirt to the tops of
the plants and cover the ridge with coarse
manure, straw or fodder, using stakes or
boards to hold the covering in place. Only
late maturing and late planted celery can be
safely stored. (Fig. 9.)

A hotbed, instructions for the making of
which are given on page 7 (Fig. 2), in Part I
of this booklet, makes an excellent place for
outdoor storage for celery. The surplus
earth and manure should be removed and a
board covering should be substituted for the
sash and glass. Store the celery in the same
manner as in pit storage. For protection from
cold use any covering that will prevent freezing.

Celery should not be stored with turnips or
cabbage. It will absorb odors from these
vegetables and its flavor will be impaired.

OUTDOOR CELLAR

Beets Potatoes

Carrots Turnips

Parsnips Salsify
Cabbage

An outdoor cellar makes a good storage
place. In cold climates this should be par-

VARIOUS METHODS

Permanent cold frames, with
deep pits, may also be used to advantage in
storing vegetables if the drainage is made
thorough. After the frames are filled the sash
should be covered with boards and the outside
banked with soil or manure. As the weather
becomes severe a covering of straw or mats
is necessary. This covering should be heavy
enough to prevent freezing.

Cauliflower and Brussels Sprouts which
have not matured may be taken up and

Fig. 5 — Irish potatoes in an outdoor mound. This
mound must be in a well-drained location. After re-
moving 2 or 3 inches of earth, pile the potatoes on a
2 or 3-inch layer of dry straw, leaves or hay. Cover the
vegetables with 2 or 3 inches of straw, leaves or hay,
and cover this with 3 or 4 inches of earth. Increase
the thickness of the earth layer as severe weather
approaches, making it as much as 12 inches in extremely
cold climates. Manure or corn stalks should be piled
over the mound. The straw, coming to the top, will
afford ventilation. The opening should be covered
for protection from rain.

planted in shallow boxes of soil in a light
place in the cellar. If kept well watered
they will mature for winter use.

HOME STORAGE

Dry beans may be stored in cloth bags
in a pantry or in any cool, dry and well
ventilated room. The bags should be hung
away from the floor to prevent damage by
rats and mice.

Onions require a cool, dry place. They
should be cured by being exposed to the
air for a few days in the shade. The tops
should be removed before storing. Keep
them in baskets, trays or other holders
which let the air circulate. Onions are not
damaged by temperatures slightly below
freezing, and for storing them the attic is
better than the cellar. If stored in the cellar
they should be suspended from the ceiling.

Squashes are susceptible to cold and
moisture, and for that reason should be
stored in a dry place where the tempera-
ture will be between 50 and 60 degrees F.
Squashes may be kept by placing them in a
single layer on a dry floor and covering
with rugs or carpets, but care must be
taken that the stems are not broken off and
that they do not become bruised before
storing. Whenever it is found that any of
the squashes or pumpkins are showing signs
of decay, the sound portions should be
canned.

Tomatoes may be saved by pulling up the
entire plant before freezing weather. The
vines should be suspended by the roots in a
cool cellar. The tomatoes will gradually
ripen. If these tomatoes, when cooked, are
found to be acid, the acidity can be over-
come by using baking soda.

Parsley may be saved by transplanting
into flower pots late in the fall. These
should be kept in windows where they will
receive sunshine.

Parsnips and salsify are not injured by
remaining in the ground all winter. Enough
for immediate needs may be dug in the
fall and the others harvested as required.

Fig. 6 — Cabbage stored, roots up, in a bank of earth.
The place must be well drained. The cabbages are
covered with earth, but this need not be as thick as for
gome vegetables, as slight freezing does no harm.

POTATOES

As one of the staple vegetables, potatoes
are entitled to special consideration for
winter storage. If you have raised a sur-
plus crop in your own garden save as many
as possible for your winter's supply. If
you have none of your own raising it is well
to buy them early in the fall, at the time

of greatest supply and lowest prices, and
store them for the winter, making yourself
independent of the market during the time
of highest prices.

Potatoes may be stored in cellars, pits
and outdoor cellars, as already described.
Before they are stored they should be al-
lowed to dry. This is done by digging

Fig. 7 — This shows cabbage, pulled with roots, stored
in a shallow trench, with roots down. The roots are
covered with earth. The stakes, projecting 2 feet
above the surface of the earth, serve as supports for
boards or "poles which make an enclosure. This frame
should be banked with dirt (b). Across the top place
poles or plank and cover with straw, hay or corn
fodder (a). Make the trench as long as necessary and
any width up to 8 feet.

them on bright days, if possible, and allow-
ing them to lie alongside the rows for a few
hours. Before storing sort them carefully
as to size and soundness. The smaller pota-
toes and those which show signs of threatened
decay should not be stored, but should be
used early.

The success of potato storage depends on
the exclusion of light, proper ventilation,
the proper amount of moisture, the size of
the pile or container and the type of the
tubers stored.

In storing potatoes it should be remem-
bered that the purpose is to protect them
from great changes of temperature and
from light. Even a small amount of light
changes the food value of potatoes. There
should be enough moisture to keep -the pota-
toes from wilting, but not enough to cause
moisture to gather on the surface.

If potatoes are stored in a place where
there is moisture in the air, provision should
be made to permit free circulation of air
through the containers. Barrels, boxes and
bins may be ventilated by boring holes in
sides and bottoms. Barrels, boxes and crates
should be set on slats to hold them off the
floor and allow the air to circulate underneath.
If the storage place is light a blanket, several
thicknesses of paper, or old sacks should be
placed on top of the containers.

If the air of the storage place is dry it
should not be allowed to circulate freely
through the containers, as dry air will
cause withering of the potatoes. In such
storage places the potatoes should be put

STORE YOUR SURPLUS FOR WINTER

in containers made airtight by lining bot-
tom and sides with several thicknesses of
newspaper and covering the top snugly in
the same manner.

The temperature of a cellar storage room
for potatoes should be carefully controlled

Fig. 8 — A barrel can be made into a good storage pit for
cabbage, turnips, potatoes etc. Barrel is placed on its
side and covered with straw and dirt.

to prevent wide fluctuations. A constant
temperature around 40 degrees F. is desir-
able. It should not be allowed to go below
32 degrees or above 50 degrees.

Potatoes should not be washed before
storage. If they begin sprouting in the
spring all the shoots should be rubbed off.
The bins should be examined occasionally
and any rotting potatoes removed to pre-
vent the spread of infection.

Bins

Do not have one large bin for potatoes,
as those in the center will be subjected to
too high temperature, which will cause all
of them to go through a sweating process.
Too large a bin makes good ventilation im-
possible. Open bins, not more than a foot
deep, arranged as a shelf, as shown in Fig.
3, are excellent for cellar storage. Another
good arrangement of shelf storage for certain
crops is shown in Fig. 4.

Pits

A small pit provided with ventilation, as
shown in Fig. 5, is the most satisfactory.
It is better to have several small pits than
one large one, as the entire contents must be
removed when a pit is opened. Place not
more than two to six weeks' supply in a
single pit.

SWEET POTATOES

In storing sweet potatoes the important
points to be kept in mind are that the pota-
toes must be well matured before they
are dug; they must be handled with ex-
treme care; they must be allowed to dry or
cure thoroughly before storage, and they
must be kept at an even temperature. A
test for maturity is to cut or break a sweet
potato and expose it to the air for a few
minutes. If the surface of the cut or break

dries the potato may be considered mature,
but if moisture remains on the surface it is
not properly ripe. In sections where frosts
come early digging should take place about
the time the first frost is expected, without
regard to maturity. Care in handling is nec-
essary to prevent bruising and subsequent
decay. Curing is done by keeping them at
an even temperature of 80 to 85 degrees F.
for a week or ten days after harvesting, to
dry off the moisture. The room in which
this is done must be ventilated in order that
the moisture-laden air may escape.

For storing sweet potatoes on a large
scale a specially constructed house is de-
sirable. For home storage the roots may
be kept near the furnace in the cellar or
near the furnace chimney in a vacant up-
stairs room or in the attic. The room
should be kept fairly warm. After curing
the temperature should be maintained
around 55 degrees F.

Care should be taken not to store sweet
potatoes which are infested with the sweet
potato weevil or root-weevil, one of the
most serious pests of the Gulf region. This
pest practically confines itself to destruc-
tion of the tubers after harvesting. When
the tubers are found infested they should
be fumigated with carbon disulphid, to be
procured at a drug store. Place the tubers
in a box or other container which can be
tightly closed. The carbon disulphid is a
liquid which gives off fumes heavier than
air, and one ounce per bushel should be
placed in an open dish on top of the roots
and the container closed. Do not allow
open lights or fire in the presence of this
gas as it is highly explosive. All badly
affected roots should be burned.

Fig. 9 — This shows celery set into an outdoor pit or
trench for storage. Boards should be placed along the
edges of the pit or trench and dirt banked against these
boards. The tops of the celery should be covered with
corn fodder, straw or similar covering. The celery
may be removed easily at any time.

APPLES

Apple storage is simple and is desirable
not only for those who grow their own
apples but also for those who depend on
the market for their supply. The one es-
sential is that the fruit be kept in a cool,

HOME STORAGE— SEED SAVING

dry place, and so stored as to be in no danger
of absorbing odors from vegetables stored
nearby.

Families raising no apples, but having a
good storage place, meeting the require-
ments as to temperature, will find it advan-
tageous to buy a winter's supply in the
fall, when prices are low. The cost of pur-
chases thus made will be considerably less
than if apples are bought as needed during
the winter.

To store, sort apples carefully, removing
and using at once all fruit which is bruised
or shows signs of decay. The best results
are secured by wrapping each apple in half
a sheet of newspaper and storing in barrels,
boxes, crates or bins. The wrapping pre-
vents the apples from touching each other
and thus prevents the spread of decay which
may start. It also protects the apples from
odors if vegetables are stored nearby. Apples
absorb odors freely from potatoes, onions,
turnips and other vegetables and should never
be stored, unwrapped, in the same room with
vegetables of any kind. In addition to wrap-

ping the individual apples it is desirable to
line the barrel or other container with a half
inch thickness of newspapers, on the bottom
and sides, and then cover the top with news-
papers and either nail a cover on or tie the
papers securely with strings. This will keep
odors out. The lining and covering give
full protection and make it possible to store
apples in the general cellar storage room.

Remember that the cellar or other place
in which they are stored must be cool. A
temperature of 32 degrees F. is ideal, and
the temperature should not be allowed to go
above 40 degrees if it can be held this low.

Apples may be stored unwrapped in bar-
rels, boxes, crates or bins if proper atten-
tion is paid to sorting, to providing a cool
place for storage and to occasional sort-
ing during the winter, for the removal of
possible decayed fruit. If any of the fruit
in any container is found to have begun
to decay all the apples in all the containers
should be sorted at once and decaying fruit
removed. Apples stored unwrapped must
not be kept in the room with vegetables.

SAVE NEXT YEAR'S SEED FROM THIS YEAR'S GARDEN

Owners of gardens will find that the saving
of seed from this year's gardens will be of
great help for next year's planting. While
it is more satisfactory, ordinarily, to purchase
seed from reliable dealers
the increased planting of
home gardens, the poor
crop of seed, the decrease
of foreign importation,
the exporting of certain
seed to Europe and the
use of certain kinds for
food have caused a short-
age and, as an emergency
measure, each gardener
should save as much seed
as possible.

Saving of seed is easily
done, though it requires
care and attention. In
saving seed select them
from plants of a single
variety grown by itself
if possible, rather than
from plants where more
than one variety have

been planted. Where there are two or
more varieties of the same vegetable
growing side by side, cross fertilization
takes place and standard seed cannot be
obtained. It is well to learn all the features
which make up the most desirable type of
variety of vegetable from which seed is to
be saved. Seed saved where it is grown has

Fig. 10 — In selecting
corn to be saved for
seed, choose the most
perfect ears.

two advantages. For one thing more careful
selection can be given than is possible for all
seed placed on the market. Another advan-
tage is that plants from this seed will succeed
best under local conditions.

Select seed plants which are free from
disease, which show a vigorous growth, a
good yield and quality, and mature early.
Mark selected plants with string. Plants
selected for seed should be given especially
careful cultivation and
every effort should be
made to promote their
full development. When
seed is ripe harvest with
care.

Seed properly stored,
with the exception of
parsnip and onion,
should retain vitality
from 2 to 5 years. Thus
enough seed may be
saved from a good crop
to tide over the poor
years.

SEED MATURING IN
ONE YEAR

Some of the seed de-

t_. t -i

sirable for saving be-

cause they mature in
one year are:

BEANS — Select the best plants and let the
pods mature. Pull up plants preferably in

Fig. 11
Of ha

A good way
nging seed corn
to dry.

SAVE THIS YEAR'S SEED FOR NEXT YEAR'S GARDEN 31

the early morning, to prevent shattering.
Place plants in a dry, well aired place until
seed are hard. Shell and spread in a layer
until dry.

SWEET CORN — Select the ears just at
maturity and while on plants, as plant must
be considered as well as the ear. The plant
should be free from disease and preferably
have two or more good ears to the stalk. The
distance between joints should be short and
the ears set on short, strong shanks. Ears
should be nearly cylindrical and should taper
but slightly from butts
to tips. They should
be well filled out, with
husks tightly folded
over ears. Pick ears
from plants maturing
at nearly the same time,
uniform in size, strong
and well rooted. Me-
dium sized ears are
best. When fully ma-
ture strip down husks
and string up 10-15
ears in a dry shady
place so as to dry out
ears quickly.

CUCUMBERS AND
SUMMER SQUASH —
Select desirable fruits
when in the usable
stage. Allow them to
remain on vines until
ripe, as indicated by
change of color or
hardening of surface.
Remove the seed from
the ripe fruit and wash
free of pulp. Spread
in a thin layer in the
sunshine to dry, stirring
frequently. A quart
or less should dry satisfactorily in a day.

EGGPLANT — When fruit is opened for
food, select the best formed seed, wash and
dry.

LETTUCE — Plants for seed should be
started early enough so that seed setting
and ripening does not occur during the
hot weather. With heading varieties it
may be necessary to cut across the tops
of the heads to allow the seed stalks to
push through. When seed heads turn white
and open, cut or pull the plants, put heads
in paper bags and hang in a dry place until
seed are ripened and drop out of Leads, or
lay the plants on a table in a dry airy place.

POTATOES — Select productive seed hills, as
nearly free from disease as possible. Potatoes
should be true as to variety, which means
that a late variety should not be substituted

Fig. 12 — To remove
kernels when prepar-
ing to plant or to test
seed, insert knife be-
tween rows and pry
sideways.

Fig. 13 — Hubbard squash. A
good type winter squash for
seed.

for early variety if the crop is to be harvested
early. Early varieties cannot be substituted
for late varieties as they are not as productive.
Seed potatoes should be kept dormant in a
dark, cool place until planting time. The
production of
long sprouts, or
wilting, will re-
duce the vigor.
Rub off the long
sprouts before
the potatoes are
planted.

RADISHES —
Select the finest
roots and cut off
all but a few
central leaves.
Put the roots in
a moist, airy
place for a short

time and then plant them with the crown
an inch below the surface. When seed
ripen, cut plants and lay on paper exposed
in the sun. When the outside covering is
dry, then rub out seed, dry and store.

TOMATOES — Gather fruit from selected
plants when a little
over ripe, but not de-
cayed. The seed may
be freed by one of
two methods. One of
these is to crush the
fruit, and force through
a sieve, and then put
the seed in a coarse
cloth and press out
pulp - under water.
Another method is to
crush fruit, put in a
container and allow to
ferment for two or
three days, stirring
once in a while. The
seed settle and the pulp
which rises may be
poured off. Wash the
seed in clear water
an dry.

Winter Squash, Pumpkin, Muskmelon,
Watermelon

When fruit is opened for food, select the
best formed seed, wash and dry.

SEED MATURING IN TWO YEARS

Such vegetables as beets, carrots, parsnip,
salsify, cabbage, etc., which require one season
in which to grow will produce seed in the
second year. Seeds of beets, carrots, cauli-
flower, turnips and late radishes are not often
grown satisfactorily in the home garden.

Fig. 14— Seeding
plants of onion in blos-
som. They should be
staked.

SEED SAVING

They must be carefully stored during the
winter. Root crops of late planting are most
satisfactory for seed. Select those of the best
shape, color and size. Cut off all but an inch
or two of the leaf stems and store in a frost
proof pit or cellar. If a cellar is used protect
the roots from withering by putting them in
sand, fine soil or sifted coal ashes. They
should be kept very slightly moist. Do not
store them in a heated cellar.

CABBAGE — In the fall select the best
heads, pull up entire plants and store them in
a trench. Next spring set out two or more
plants as one plant alone rarely produces
seed. It may be necessary to cut the head
across the top to allow the seed stalk to
develop. When the seed pods turn yellow
cut off the stalk and lay it on paper in a cool
shady place to dry; early morning is the best
time to gather. Rub out the seed when the
pod is dry. Do not grow kale, collards,
cabbage or kohlrabi — any two of them — in
the same garden, as they will cross-fertilize.

ONIONS — Seed bearing bulbs should be well
rooted. In the fall plant them 3 inches deep.
As cold weather approaches cover with earth
to protect them from freezing. In the spring
remove the ridges. The seed stalks should
be supported with stakes. When most of the
seed is ripe cut out the seed stalks, dry in the
sunshine and rub out the seed.

PARSNIPS — These may be left in the ground
all winter. In the spring plant selected roots
3 to 5 feet apart in row. When seed are ripe
cut seed stalk and dry.

STORAGE OF SEED

Put heavy seed, such as beans and peas, in
cloth bags; smaller seed in paper bags or
envelopes. Label each bag carefully, inside
and out, as to contents. To protect seed
from mice put the bags in perforated tin
boxes. A bread box makes an ideal storage
place for seed. An upstairs room or attic
room, provided it is not warm, is a very
good place in which to store seed. The room
must be dry and well ventilated to prevent
molding.

Stored seed should be occasionally ex-
amined for insects. If insects or weevils are
present fumigate with carbon bisulphid, a
liquid which vaporizes, producing a gas
heavier than air. To fumigate, place the
seed in an air-tight receptacle and pour the
carbon bisulphid over the seed. Open to air
in from 24 to 36 hours. Use an ounce of
carbon bisulphid to a bushel of seed. Car-
bon bisulphid is very inflammable and fire
or flame must not be taken near the fumi-
gating receptacle. Disregard of this precau-
tion will result in an explosion.

This manual was prepared by the Commission's experts and is based on their
own research and experience, supplemented by information procured from the
United States Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Colleges, Experiment
Stations, and other sources.

The National War Garden Commission, wishing to do all within its power to
aid the War Industries Board in the very necessary economy in the use of paper,
has limited the edition of this book and asks those who receive it in quantity to
make the most careful distribution so that the book may reach the hands of
none but those who will use it. IF THE INDIVIDUAL RECIPIENT CAN NOT
USE THIS BOOK IT IS URGED THAT IT BE HANDED TO SOME ONE WHO
WILL USE IT.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Page

Cold frame and Hotbed 7

Community gardening 1

Community storage 24

Cultivation 11

DISEASES AND INSECTS 16

FERTILIZERS—

Commercial 5

Compost 5

Green manure 6

INDOOR PLANTING 9

PLANTING—

Continuous crops 11

Fall crops 10

Succession of crops 10

Table for planting 23

Time of planting 10

POTATOES—

Growing 12

Diseases, and insects 21

Storage 28

Page
POTATOES, SWEET—

Growing 13

Storage 29

SEED —

Quantity to buy
Saving for next year
Testing before planting

.. 30

SPRAYING 16

SOIL 5,7

STORAGE—

Apples 29

Cellar 24

Outdoor cellar 27

Pit t 26

Seed 32

Various methods 27

TOOLS... 7

UNITED STATES FOOD ADMINISTRATION

Mobile, Alabama.
September 6th, 1918.
MR. P. S. RIDSDALE, Secretary,

National War Garden Commission,
WASHINGTON, D. C.

Dear Mr. Ridsdale:

I desire to tender my sincere thanks for the books which you have furnished
for distribution and use among the war gardeners of Mobile, and as encourage-
ment and assistance to others to take up this splendid work conducive not only
to increased supply of food products, but to the health and happiness of those
who wisely give Mother Earth the attention which just at this time she all the
more richly deserves.

It is needless for me to assure you that the books have been extremely
helpful. I consider them the most complete and serviceable ever produced;
and excepting only the family Bible, the foundation of all ethics and morality ES
well as the common law, these books are of more vital importance to every house-
holder, in fact, good citizens throughout the land, than most printed matter
obtainable.

Your books on canning and drying are likewise of inestimable value, and
your splendid co-operation in the common cause of increasing and conserving
the food supply in. our present crisis meets with the heartiest appreciation.

Very sincerely,
(Signed)' HENRY A. FORCHHEIMER,

Federal Food Administration Board.

UNITED STATES FOOD ADMINISTRATION

Davenport, Iowa.
September 5, 1918.
MR. P. S. RIDSDALE, Secretary,

National War Garden Commission,
WASHINGTON, D. C.

My dear Mr. Ridsdale:

We have found your publications of great value in our work in this State
and it gives me pleasure to thank you for your prompt and cordial compliance
with all of our requests.

Your book on War Vegetable Gardening and the one devoted to Canning and
Drying are filled with information of great value to the gardener and housewife.

It has been a source of great satisfaction to us to be able to distribute your
books in every County in Iowa and we have used care to place them in the hands
of people who need them and who are constantly calling for just the information
contained in them.

We feel that your co-operation has been of great importance.

Faithfully yours,

(Signed) M. L. PARKER,

State Merchant Representative,

Iowa Food Administration.

After J. N. Darling, in New York Tribune.

NATIONAL WAR GARDEN COMMISSION

A Patriotic Organization Affiliated with the Conservation Department
of the American Forestry Association

WASHINGTON, D. C.

CHARLES LATHROP PACK, President.

PERCIVAL S. RIDSDALE, Secretary.

LUTHER BURBANK, Calif.

DR. CHARLES W. ELIOT, Mass.

DR. IRVING FISHER, Conn.

FRED H. GOFF, Ohio

JOHN HAYS HAMMOND, Mass.

FAIRFAX HARRISON, Va.

HON. MYRON T. HERRICK, Ohio.

NORMAN C. McLouo, Associate Secretary.

DR. JOHN GRIER HIBBEN, N. J.

EMERSON McMiLLiN, N. Y.

CHARLES LATHROP PACK, N. J.

A. W. SHAW, 111.

MRS. JOHN DICKINSON SHERMAN, 111.

CAPT. J. B. WHITE, Mo.

HON. JAMES WILSON, Iowa.

P. P. CLAXTON, U. S. Commissioner of Education.

Victory Edition 1919

HOME

CANNING & DRYING

of Vegetables & Fruits

Published try

National War Garden Commission

Washington, DC.

THE KAISER IS CANNED CAN FOOD

WAR DEPARTMENT

WASHINGTON

June 7, 1918.

NATIONAL WAR GARDEN COMMISSION,
WASHINGTON, D. C.

Dear Sirs:

Cordially yours,

(Signed) NEWTON D. BAKER,

Secretary of War.

UNITED STATES FOOD ADMINISTRATION

Baltimore, Maryland.
September 14, 1918.

NATIONAL WAR GARDEN COMMISSION,
Maryland Building,

WASHINGTON, D. C.

Gentlemen:

We wish to express to you our appreciation of your helpfulness in our war
garden, canning and drying work in Maryland during the season of 1918. Your
book on canning and drying has been of great value, while the canning outfits
which you so kindly gave us made it possible for us to establish canning centers
throughout the State, with results of far-reaching importance which could not have
been otherwise accomplished. We are equally appreciative of your prompt and
willing response to our request for the services of one of your trained investigators
to assist in our war garden work. Your spirit of prompt and willing service is
cordially appreciated.

Yours truly,

(Signed) EDWIN G. BAETJER,

Federal Food Administrator for Maryland.

BACK UP THE CANNON
BY USE OF THE CANNER

By CHARLES LATHROP PACK, President

National War Garden Commission

WE stand with our backs to the
wall." That call to the civ-
ilized world, made by Gen-
eral Haig in the spring of 1918, has
brought and still must bring answer
from the women. Only by their co-
operation has it been possible for that
call to be answered, for no nation can
do a great work unless the women of
that nation put their influence into
the job.

We were forced into a war which
was something more than a war to
decide policies or mark boundaries —
a war involving the most sacred
questions with which men and
women have to deal — the sanctity of
womanhood, the sacredness of child-
hood and the right to live in free-
dom. We could not yield these rights
while we had the strength to defend
them.

In the emergency created by this
war the question of food goes hand
in hand with thrift. Our position
has been no less closely involved in
the conflict than that of Europe. In
proof of this let me call attention
to the plan the enemy had for us. I
quote from a book called "War," by
Klaus Wagner, published in 1916 in
Berlin. On page 165 the author says:

"Not only North America, but the
whole of America must become a bul-
wark of German Kultur, perhaps the
strongest fortress of the Germanic
races. That is every one's hope who
frees himself from his own local Eu-
ropean pride and who places race
feeling above his love for home."

Mark that well — his race feeling
above his love for home; and then let
me quote one of the thousands of let-
ters received by the National War

Garden Commission. Here it is, from
a boy:

"I have decided to help win the
war by having a war garden, and I
have just read your notice that any
one can have a free garden book.
Please send it to me. My father
joined the army in 1915 and was
killed in 1916.— -Harvey Cameron,
New Glasgow, Nova Scotia."

That boy is typical of the boys and
men of many nations who have been
fighting against the common enemy.
If they could look the job in the face
that way, what can we do? Our boys
have been giving their lives toward
the achievement of victory. Every
mile of reclaimed territory in devas-
tated France and Belgium adds hun-
dreds of hungry mouths to be fed.
With France and Belgium liberated
many more people have become de-
pendent on this country's food sup-
ply. In victory we must feed not
only more millions abroad but also
care for our own people at home and
our soldiers until they return. Peace
cannot mean an increase of the
world's grain supply for another year
at least, and it will take several years
of bountiful crops to refill the empty
bins and granaries of the world.

Victory, therefore, must necessarily
bring a large increase in our obliga-
tion. We must not only produce
food as close to the kitchen door as
possible, but we must save a vast vol-
ume of this food for winter use. To
save it we must can it, dry it, or other-
wise prepare to have it in readiness
for the months of non-production.
Canning and drying, therefore, are as
imperative to-day as if the war were
just beginning.

TIME-TABLE FOR BLANCHING AND STERILIZING

The following time-table shows blanching time for various vegetables and fruits, and
also sterilizing time in the hot-water bath outfit, and in equipment for sterilization by the
water-seal method, the steam-pressure method and the aluminum steam-cooker method:

Vegetables

Blanching

Sterilizing

Hot-water

Water seal

Steam pressure in Ibs.

5 to 10

10 to 15

Asparagus

Minutes
10 to 15
5
5 to 10
5 to 10
3
5
5 to 10
15
5 to 10
5 to 10
5
5 to 10
Roast
5 to 10
See directions
5

Minutes
120
90
120
120
60
90
180
120
180
120
90
120
35
180
120
90
120
120
120
22

20
16
16
16
16
16
16
16

'16
12
20
16
16
30
20
16
20
16
30

Minutes
90
80
90
90
40
80
120
90
120
90
80
90
25
120
90
80
90
90
90
18

12
12
12
12
12
12
12
12

*ii

8
12
12
12
15
12
12
15
12
20

Minutes
60
60
60
60
30
60
90
60
60
60
60
60
20
60
60
60
60
60
60
15

8
10
10
10
10
10
10
10

10
6
8
10
10
10
8
10
15
10
12

Minutes
40
40
40
40
20
40
60
40
40
40
40
40
15
40
40
40
40
40
40
10

Beets

Brussels sprouts

Cabbage

Cauliflower

Carrots

Corn

Greens . . . .

Lima beans

Okra

Parsnips

Peppers sweet or hot

Peppers pimentos.

Peas.

Pumpkin

Salsify . .

Sour-crout

String beans

5 to 10

See directions
To loosen skins

ijrf

Ito 2
none
none
none
none
none
none
See directions
1 to 2
1 to 2

ijf

To loosen skins
none
3 to 5

IK
none

Squash

Tomatoes

Fruits

Aooles

Apricots

Blackberries

Blueberries

Dewberries

Cherries sweet

Cherries sour .

Currants

Fruit juices

Gooseberries.

Oranges

Pears

Peaches

Plums

Pineapples

Quinces

Raspberries

Rhubarb

Strawberries

none

Fruits without sugar

The time given In this table is for quart Jars. Add 30 minutes for 2-quart Jars and deduct 5
minutes for pint jars.

The time given is for fresh, sound and firm vegetables. Increase the time of sterilization by
adding one-fifth for vegetables which have been gathered over 24 hours.

The time given is for altitudes up to 1000 feet above sea level. For higher altitudes increase the
time in hot-water bath 10 per cent for each additional 500 feet. For example, If the time is given as 120
minutes in the table and your location is 1500 feet above sea level, the time should be made 132 minutes.

Neither home-made nor commercial hot-water bath outfits are entirely satisfactory, however, for
canning at very high altitudes, as the temperature of water In them does not reach 212 degrees F. In
such localities water-seal and steam-pressure outfits are advisable, as they give higher temperatures.

PART I

HOME CANNING MANUAL

To save vegetables and fruits by canning this year is a patriotic duty. War
has made the need for Food Conservation more imperative than at any time
in history. America is responsible for the food supply of Europe. The
American family can do nothing more helpful in this emergency than to
Can All Food That Can be Canned. In this way the abundance of the summer
may be made to supply the needs of the winter.

CANNING IS FOOD THRIFT

The National War Garden Commission's
campaign for five million or more War Gar-
dens has brought about the creation of a vast
food supply hitherto greatly neglected. To
utilize this to the best advantage calls for
Canning operations in every household
throughout the nation.

The preservation of foodstuffs by Canning
is always effective Food Thrift. It enables
the individual house-
hold to take advantage
of summer's low prices
for vegetables even if
no garden has been
planted. It effects the
saving of a surplus of
foodstuffs that would
otherwise be wasted
through excess of sup-
ply over immediate
consumption. It elimi-
nates the cold storage
cost that must be added to the prices of
commodities bought during the winter. Of
vital importance, also, is that it relieves
the strain on transportation facilities of
the country. This phase has been especially
emphasized for this year by the unprece-
dented traffic situation. All this increases
the need for Home Canning and proves that
this is a national obligation.

CANNING MADE EASY BY MODERN
METHODS

By the Single Period Cold-Pack method it
is as easy to can vegetables as to can fruits,
and this year it is more useful. By the use of
this method canning may be done in the
kitchen or out of doors. It may be done in
the individual household or by groups of
families. Community canning is important
in that it makes possible the use of the best

COLD-PACK IN THE SOUTH

In some parts of the Southern States
there has been complaint as to results
obtained in the use of the Single Period
Cold-pack method, but inquiry and re-
search have shown that in most cases the
trouble arose from lack of care in follow-
ing instructions or the use of poor rub-
bers, and was not to be blamed on the
method itself. With proper care and per-
fect cleanliness the results in the South
are as good as elsewhere.

equipment at small individual outlay and
induces Food Conservation on a large scale.
Community canning by school children, under
the direction of competent teachers, is espe-
cially valuable.

This Manual presents all necessary in-
structions for canning vegetables and fruits,
in a manner which may be so readily under-
stood that the work is no longer a problem,
but is so simple that
any adult or child may
do it with success.

COMMUNITY
WORK

One of the best
methods to follow in
canning and drying
operations is for sev-
eral families to club
together for the work.
The work may be car-
ried on at a schoolhouse, in a vacant store-
room, at the home of one of the members or
at some other convenient and central loca-
tion where heat and water can be made avail-
able. By joining in the purchase of equip-
ment each participant will be in position
to save money as against individual pur-
chases and at the same time have the ad-
vantage of larger and more complete equip-
ment. The cost is slight when thus divided
and the benefits very great to all concerned.
For a co-operative enterprise it is well to
have a committee of from three to five to take
charge of all details. First determine how
many people will take part in the work, how
much each proposes to can or dry, what
vegetables and fruits each will furnish and
such other information as will have a bear-
ing on the selection of equipment. After
deciding how much money will be needed,

HOME CANNING MANUAL

have each member contribute his or her
proportion, determined by the amount of
canning or drying he or she proposes to do.

The equipment should be bought as early
as possible to prevent disappointment in

FIG. 1. Home-made rack for wash-boiler.

delivery which is almost certain to follow
delay. This equipment may be ordered
through a local dealer or direct from the
manufacturers. The National War Garden
Commission publishes a list of manufacturers
which may be had upon application.

The equipment may be used by the in-
dividual members on a schedule arranged by
the committee, or a working force may be
appointed to do all the work, receiving pay
in the form of a percentage of the product.

Publicity is important in keeping interest
aroused and there should be a committee to
arrange with the local papers for the publica-
tion of information concerning the enterprise.
This serves as an incentive to others.

The National War Garden Commission
will send upon application its pamphlet on
Community and Neighborhood Canning and
Drying, giving details as to organization.

STERILIZATION OF FOOD

The scientist has proved that food decay is
caused by microorganisms, classed as bacteria,
yeasts and molds. Success in canning neces-

FIG. 2. Wash-hotter with rack for jars.

sitates the destruction of these organisms.
A temperature of 160° to 190° F. will kill
yeasts and molds. Bacteria are destroyed at
a temperature of 212° F. held for the proper
length of time. The destruction of these
organisms by heat is called sterilization.

METHODS OF CANNING

There are five principal methods of home
canning. These are:

1. Single Period Cold-pack Method.

2. Fractional or Intermittent Sterilization
Method.

3. Open Kettle or Hot-pack Method.

4. Cold Water Method.

5. Vacuum Seal Method.

The method recommended for home use
is the Single Period Cold-pack method.
It is much the best because of its simplicity
and effectiveness, and in this book detailed
instructions are given for its use.

The outlines of the various methods are:
1. Single Period Cold-pack Method: The
prepared vegetables or fruits are blanched in
boiling water or live steam, then quickly
cold-dipped and packed at once into hot jars,
the contents covered with boiling water or
syrup, and the jars partially sealed and
sterilized in boiling water or by steam pres-
sure. The jars are then sealed tight, tested
for leaks and stored. Full details are given
on page 7 and the pages following.

FIG. 3. A type of commercial canner for hot-water
bath, using wood, coal, charcoal, chips, cobs, or brush.

2. Fractional or Intermittent Sterilization
Method: Vegetables are half sealed in jars
and sterilized for 1 hour or more on each of
three successive days. This method is ex-
pensive as to time, labor and fuel and dis-
courages the home canning of vegetables.

3. Open Kettle or Hot-pack Method: Vege-
tables or fruits are cooked in an open kettle
and packed in jars. There is always danger
of spores and bacteria being introduced on
spoons or other utensils while the jars are
being filled. This method should never be
used in canning vegetables. Even with fruits
it is not as desirable as the cold-pack.

4. Cold-water Method: Rhubarb, cran-
berries, gooseberries, and sour cherries, be-
cause of their acidity, are often canned by
this method. The fruits are washed, put in
sterilized jars, cold water is added to over-
flowing, and the jar is then sealed. This
method is not always successful as the acid
content varies with ripeness and the locality
in which the fruits are grown.

CAN ALL FOOD THAT CAN BE CANNED

5. Vacuum Seal Method: Vegetables are
washed, blanched, cold-dipped and cooked
as for table use; packed and sealed in especially
made vacuum seal jars. The jars must be
well made and the work properly done to
bring about satisfactory results.

ADVANTAGES OF THE COLD-PACK

The Single Period Cold-pack method is
a simple and sure way of canning. It in-
sures a good color, texture and flavor to the
vegetable or fruit canned. In using this
method sterilization is completed in a single

period, saving
time, fuel and
labor. The sim-
plicity of the
method c o m -
mends it. Fruits
are put up in
syrups. Vege-
tables require
only salt for
flavoring and
water to fill the
container.

Another ad-
vantage is that
it is practicable
to put up food
in small as well
as large quanti-
ties. The house-
wife who un-
derstands the
process will find
that it pays to put up even a single con-
tainer. Thus, when she has a small surplus
of some garden crop she should take the
time necessary to place this food in a con-
tainer and store it for future use. This is
true household efficiency.

COLD-PACK EQUIPMENT

1. The Homemade Hot-water Bath Outfit.—
A serviceable Single Period Cold-pack can-
ning outfit may be made of equipment found
in almost any household. Any utensil large
and deep enough to allow an inch of water
above jars, and a false bottom beneath them,
and having a closely fitting cover, may be
used for sterilizing. A wash-boiler, large lard
can or new garbage pail serves the purpose
when canning is to be done in large quantities.
Into this utensil should be placed a wire or
wooden rack to hold the jars off the bottom
and so constructed as to permit circulation of
water underneath the jars.

For lifting glass-top jars use two button-
hooks or similar device. For lifting screw-
top jars, suitable lifters may be bought for a
small sum. A milk carrier makes a good
false bottom, and if this is used the jars
may be easily lifted out at the end of the
sterilization period.

FIG. 4. Steam pressure canner;
home and community canning.

2. Commercial Hot -water Bath Outfits. —
There are upon the market outfits on the order
of the wash-boiler or pail type of homemade
canner. These are excellent and are es-
pecially desirable if one has considerable
quantities of vegetables or fruits to put up.
There are also commercial canners conve-

FIG. 5. Water-seal outfit. On the left is shown the
cover, with thermometer. In the center is the double
walled vat or holder. On the right is a crate for jars.

nient for out-door work, haying fire-box and
smoke-pipe all in one piece with the sterilizing
vat. As with the homemade outfit, contain-
ers are immersed in boiling water.

3. Water Seal Outfits. — These are desirable,
as the period of sterilization is shorter than in
the homemade outfit and less fuel is therefore
required. The outfit consists of two con-
tainers, one fitting within the other, and a
cover which extends into the space between
the outer and the inner container. The
water jacket makes it possible for the tem-
perature in the

inner container
to be raised
several degrees
above 212° F.

4. Steam Pres-
sure Outfits. —
Canning is very
rapid when ster-
ilization is done
in steam main-
tained at a pres-
sure. There are
several canners
of this type.
Each is pro-
vided with pres-
sure gauge and
safety valve and
they carry from

FIG. 6. Aluminum pressure canner.

5 to 30 pounds of steam pressure. This type
is suitable for home or community canning.

5. Aluminum Pressure Outfits. — These cook-
ers are satisfactory for canning and for general
cooking. They carry from 5 to 30 pounds of
steam pressure. Each outfit is provided with
a steam pressure gauge and safety valve.

HIGH ALTITUDES

At high altitudes the boiling point of
water is below 212° F. At moderate eleva-
tions satisfactory results may be obtained
in the use of the hot-water bath by increasing
the time of sterilization 10 per cent for every

HOME CANNING MANUAL

500 feet above 1000. To insure best results
in very high altitudes, however, a steam
pressure canner or aluminum pressure cooker

is recommend-
ed to be used.
This type of
canner pro-
duces a temper-
ature up to 250°
F. at 15 Ibs.
pressure, insur-
ing proper ster-
ilization and
also saving time
and fuel. A
steam pressure
canner may be
bought around
$20. Several
families may

FIG. 7. Home canner and steam use one and di-
cooker holding 14 quart jars. Re- . , ,
quires same time as hot-water bath. Vide tne COSt.

OPERATION OF PRESSURE CANNERS
AND ALUMINUM COOKERS

1. Have water in the canner up to the false
bottom, but not above it. Keep this water
boiling during the time that packed jars are
being placed in the canner, and add water
occasionally to prevent its boiling dry.

2. To prepare product follow instructions
in "Steps in the Single Period Cold-pack
Method " on pages 8 and 9. As each jar is
packed, set it at once, partially sealed, in the
canner. The cover of the canner may be put
in position, but not clamped.

3. When all of the filled jars are placed in
the canner, put on the cover, and fasten op-
posite clamps moderately tight; then tighten
each pair of clamps fully.

4. The petcock should be left open until
live steam escapes from it. The canner
should be steam-tight, and no steam should
escape except through the open petcock.
When live steam escapes, close the petcock
completely.

5. Begin to count time when the steam
gauge registers the required temperature.

6. Maintain a uniform pressure during the
sterilizing period by setting the weight on the
arm, when the proper pressure is registered on
the steam gauge, so that surplus steam will es-
cape at that desired pressure. A uniform
temperature may be maintained also, by
turning down the flame or moving the canner
to a less hot part of the stove.

7. When the sterilization period is com-
plete, do not allow steam to escape, but allow
the canner to cool until the steam gauge
registers zero.

8. Open petcock, remove the cover of
canner, and take out the jars. As each jar is
removed, complete seal at once.

CONTAINERS

For home use glass jars are more satisfac-
tory for canning than tin. This is especially
true this year when there is a shortage of tin
cans. Tin cans are used chiefly for canning
on a large scale for commercial purposes.

There are many jars of , different styles
and prices on the market; and provided the
seal is not defective, equally good results
may be obtained from all. Glass is a popular
household choice because one can see through
it and thus have some idea as to the condi-
tion of the contents. Glass jars may be
used for years if properly cared for.

All types of jars which seal readily may be
used. Jars having glass tops held in place
by bails are especially easy to handle while
hot. Screw-top jars are serviceable. Glass
caps held in place by separate metal screw
bands are now on the market, as well as the
one-piece sort of former years. Vacuum
seal jars are very easily managed. Tops for
Economy jars should be purchased each year.
The composition material, which takes the
place of rubber, should have a rubber-like tex-
ture. If of mealy consistency it is unfit for
use and the top will not make a tight seal.

The color and shape of jars are not of first
moment, but are to be considered. Con-
tainers made
of white glass
should be used
if the product
is to be offered
for sale, as
blue or green
glass detracts
from the ap-
pearance of
the contents.
Wide-mouthed
jars are best
for packing
whole products
and are easiest to clean. Small-necked
bottles can be used for fruit juices. Large-
mouthed bottles can be used for jams, mar-
malades and jellies.

TESTS FOR JARS

Jars should be tested before they are used.
Some of the important tests are here given:

1. Glass-top Jars. — First examine for cracks.
Then run a finger around the edge of necks of
jars, and if there are sharp projections, file
them off, or scrape them off with an old knife.
If left on they may cut rubbers and interfere
with perfect sealing. Place a top on a jar.
It will slip from side to side, but should not
rock, when tapped. Rocking tops will not
make a tight seal. Sometimes the fault is
with the top and sometimes with the neck.
Defective jars and tops when discarded for

FIG. 8. Rack for jars.

CAN ALL FOOD THAT CAN BE CANNED

canning purposes may be used as containers
for jams, etc. The top-bail should go into
position with a light snap. If too loose it
should be taken off and bent slightly inward
in the center. If too tight bend outward.

2. Screw-top Jars. — Use only enameled,
lacquered or vulcanized tops. Screw the top

on tightly
without the
rubber. If the
tip of a knife
or finger-nail
can be inserted
under the rim,
the tops should
not be used for
cold-pack can-
ning. If the
defect is very
slight, how-
ever, it may

FIG. 9. Wire rack for jars.

be remedied by pressing a knife handle on
the lower edge against a hard surface, thus
straightening the offending bulge. Another
test is made by putting on the rubber, screw-
ing the top on tightly and then pulling the
rubber out. If the rubber returns to place,
the top does not fit and should not be used
on that jar.

3. Vacuum seal jars may be tested in the
same way as the glass-top jars. See if the tops
rock if tapped, when placed on the jar without
fastening.

STANDARDS AND TESTS FOR RINGS

1. Good Rubber Essential. — Buy new rub-
bers every year, as rubbers deteriorate from
one season to another. A good rubber for

FIG. 10. Simple test for rubbers. A perfect rubber
will show no crease or break after being folded tightly
several times.

cold-pack canning must be such as to stand
four hours of continuous boiling or one hour
under 10 pounds of steam pressure. The
combination of moist heat plus acids and
mineral matter in vegetables and fruits tends
to break down the rubbers during steriliza-
tion. Rubbers kept in a hot or very warm
place, as for example, on a shelf near the
kitchen range, will deteriorate in quality.
Be very particular about the rubbers used.
Spoilage of canned goods has been traced
frequently to the use of poor rubbers.

2. Testing Rubbers. — It is always well to
test rubbers when buying. A good rubber
will return to its original size when stretched.
It will not crease when bent double and
pinched (Fig. 10). It should fit the neck

of the jar snugly. It is cheaper to discard a
doubtful rubber than to lose a jar of canned
goods.

GRADING

Vegetables and fruits should be sorted ac-
cording to color, size and ripeness. This is
called grading. It insures the best pack and
uniformity of flavor and texture to the canned
product, which is always desirable.

BLANCHING AND COLD-DIPPING

The most important steps in canning are
the preliminary steps of blanching, cold-
dipping, packing in hot, clean containers,
adding hot water at once, then immediately
half sealing jars and putting into the sterilizer.
Spoilage of products is nearly always due to
carelessness in one of these steps. Blanching
is necessary with all vegetables and some
fruits. It insures thorough cleansing and re-
moves objectionable odors and flavors and
excess acids. It starts the flow of coloring
matter. It reduces the bulk of greens
and causes shrinkage of fruits, increasing the
quantity which may be packed in a con-
tainer, which saves storage space.

Blanching consists of plunging the vege-
tables or fruits into boiling water or exposing
them to steam for a short time. For blanch-
ing in boiling water place them in a wire
basket (Fig. 17) or piece of cheesecloth (Fig.
18). The blanching time varies from one to
fifteen minutes, as shown in the time-table
on page 2, and the products should be kept
under water throughout the period. Begin
counting time when the articles are first
placed in boiling water or steam.

Spinach and other greens should not be
blanched in hot water. They must be
blanched in steam to prevent the loss of
mineral salts, volatile oils and other valuable
substances. To do this place them in a
colander and set this
into a vessel which has
a tightly fitting cover.
In this vessel there
should be an inch or
two of water, but the
water must not be al-
lowed to touch the greens
(Fig. 12). Another meth-
od is to suspend the
greens in the closed
vessel above an inch or
two of water. This may be done in a wire
basket or in cheesecloth. Allow the water to
boil in the closed vessel fifteen minutes. Ex-
cellent results are obtained, also, by the use
of a steam cooker or steam pressure canner.

When the blanching is complete remove the
vegetables or fruits from the boiling water
or steam and plunge them once or twice

FIG. 11. Wire rack
for jars.

HOME CANNING MANUAL

into cold water— the colder the better.
This latter process is the Cold Dip. It
hardens the pulp under the skin, so that the
products are not injured by peeling. It also
sets the coloring matter. Do not allow the
products to stand in the cold water.

Always blanch and cold-dip only enough
product to fill one or two jars at a time.
The blanching and cold-dipping should follow
at once when the vegetable or fruit is pre-
pared, and the packing into jars should im-
mediately follow the blanching and cold-dip.

PROCESSING

Processing is the sterilization treatment
to which products are subjected after pack-
ing them into jars. As soon as the jar is
filled, put the rubber and cap in place and
partially seal by adjusting top bail or screw-
ing on top with thumb and little finger. If
Economy jars are used the top should be held
in place with clamp. The jar should then be
put into sterilizer at once.

In using the hot-water bath outfit, count
the time of sterilization from the time water
begins to boil.
The water in the
sterilizer should
be at or just be-
low the boiling
point when jars
are put in. With
the Water Seal
Outfit begin
counting time
when the ther-
mometer reaches
214° F. With
the Steam Pres-
sure Outfit begin
counting time
the number of

LINE

FIG. 12. Use of a colander to
blanch greens in steam. The col-
ander is placed in a receptacle
with tightly fitting cover. No
water should touch the greens.

when the gauge reaches
pounds called for in directions.

When the processing is finished, at once
remove and seal each jar.

ARRANGING FOR CANNING

It is important to plan your work so that
whatever may be needed will be ready for
use. Arrange everything conveniently in
advance. Preliminary provisions include:

1. A reliable alarm clock in a convenient
place (set to ring when the sterilizing is done).

2. All the necessary equipment in place
before beginning work. See Fig. 14.

3. Jars, tops and rubbers carefully tested.

4. Fresh, sound fruits and vegetables.

5. Plenty of hot water for sterilizer,
blanching, warming the jars and for pouring
into packed jars.

6. Salt or syrup at hand.

7. Reliable instructions, carefully followed.

8. Absolute cleanliness.

STEPS IN THE SINGLE PERIOD COLD-
PACK METHOD

In canning by the Single Period Cold-pack
method it is important that careful attention
be given to each detail. Do not undertake
canning until you have familiarized yourself
with the various steps, which are as follows:

1. Vegetables should be
canned as soon as possible
after picking; the same day
is best. Early morning is the
best time for gathering. Fruits
should be as fresh as possible.

2. Before starting work
have on the stove the boiler
or other holder in which the
sterilizing is to be done, a pan
of boiling water for use in
blanching, a vessel containing
water to be used for warming
several jars at a time, and a
kettle of boiling water for use
in filling jars of vegetables;

ruits, the syrup FIG- 13- A-
to be used in filling the jars, lifter is useful.
Arrange on this working table
all necessary equipment, including instruc-
tions. (Fig. 14.)

3. Test jars and tops. All jars, rubbers
and tops should be clean and hot, at the
moment of using.

4. Wash and grade product according to
size and ripeness. (Cauliflower should be
soaked 1 hour in salted water, to remove in-
sects if any are present. Put berries into a
colander and wash, by allowing cold water to
flow over them, to prevent bruising.)

5. Prepare vegetable or fruit. Remove all
but an inch of the tops from beets, parsnips
and carrots and the strings from green beans.
Pare squash, remove seeds and cut into small
pieces. Large vegetables should be cut into
pieces to make close pack possible. Remove
pits from cherries, peaches and apricots.

6. Blanch in boiling water or steam as
directed. Begin to count time when the
product is immersed.

7. Cold-dip, but do not allow product to
stand in cold water at this or any other stage.

8. Pack in hot jars which rest on cloths
wrung out in hot water. Fill the jars to within
X to % inch of tops. (In canning lima beans,
squash, corn, peas, pumpkin and sweet pota-
toes fill the jars to within 1 inch of the top, as
these vegetables swell during sterilization. In
canning berries, to insure a close pack, put a
2 or 3 inch layer of berries on the bottom of
the jar and press down gently with a spoon.
Continue in this manner with other layers un-
til jar is filled. Fruits cut in half should be
arranged with pit surface down.)

9. Add salt and then boiling water to veg-
etables to cover them. To fruits add hot syrup
or water.

10. Place a new wet rubber on jar and put
top in place.

CAN ALL FOOD THAT CAN BE CANNED

FIG. 14. Table arranged conveniently with various articles needed for canning by the Cold-pack method.
The picture shows jars, rubbers, knife for removing air bubbles in containers, spoons, jar lifter, wire basket for
blanching, knife for paring and coring, book of directions, towels, pan for cold-dipping, alarm clock andfoalt.

11. With bail-top jar adjust top bail only,
leaving lower bail or snap free. With screw-
top jar screw the top on lightly, using only the
thumb and little finger. (This partial sealing
makes it possible for steam generated within
the jar to escape, and prevents breakage.)
On vacuum seal jars adjust spring securely.

12. Place the jars on rack in boiler or
other sterilizer. If the homemade or com-
mercial hot- water bath outfit is used, enough
water should be in the boiler to come at least
one inch above the tops of the jars, and the
water, in evaporating, should never be allowed
to drop to the level of these tops. In using
the hot- water bath outfit, begin to count
sterilizing time when the water begins to
boil. Water is at the boiling point when it
is jumping or rolling all over. Water is not
boiling when bubbles merely form on the
bottom or when they begin to rise to the top.
The water must be kept boiling all of the time
during the period of sterilization.

13. Consult time-table on page 2 and at
the end of the required sterilizing period re-
move the jars from the sterilizer. Place them
on a wooden rack or on several thicknesses of
cloth to prevent breakage. Complete the
sealing of jars. With bail-top jars this is
done by pushing the snap down (Fig. 15);
with screw top jars by screwing cover on
tightly.

14. Turn the jars upside down as a test for
leakage and leave them in this position till
cold. Let them cool rapidly but be sure that
no draft reaches them as a draft will cause
breakage. (If there is any doubt that a
bail-top jar is perfectly sealed a simple test

CAUTION AGAINST FREEZING

From a number of sources it has been
learned that the severe weather of last
winter caused considerable loss through
the freezing of canned goods. To pre-
vent similar trouble, care should be taken
to store canned vegetables and fruits
where they will be protected from freez-
ing. If the place of storage is not frost-
proof the jars should be moved to a
warmer place in severe weather.

may be made by loosening the top bail and
lifting the jar by taking hold of the top with
the fingers. (Fig. 28.) The internal suction
should hold the top tightly in place when thus
lifted. If the top comes off put on a new
wet rubber and sterilize 15 minutes longer
for vegetables and 5 minutes longer for
fruits.) With screw-top jars try the tops
while the jars are cooling, or as soon as they
have cooled, and, if loose, tighten them by
screwing on more closely. Vacuum seal jars
should be placed upright while cooling, and

FIG. 15. To the left is a bail-top jar partially sealed
and ready for sterilization. The top bail is snapped
into place and the lower bail left free. To the right
is shown the way to complete the seal.

the clamp removed when the jar is cool.
Then lift by the top and turn upside down,
as a test for leakage.

15. Wash and dry each jar, label and store.
If storage place is exposed to light, wrap each
jar in paper, preferably brown, as light will
either fade or darken the color of products
canned in glass. The boxes in which jars
were brought afford good storage. Store in a
cool, dark place, preferably dry. Exposure
to mold will cause decay of rubber, allowing
the leakage of air into jars. Paper wrappings
prevent mold.

This Commission publishes a book on "War
Gardening and the Home Storage of Vege-
tables," completely covering both subjects.

HOME CANNING MANUAL

FIG. 16

FIG. 17

FIG. 18

In the pictures on this and the next page are shown successive steps in canning by the Single Period Cold-
pack Method. FIG. 16 shows paring and coring with sharp knife. FIG. 17 shows blanching with wire basket.
FIG. 18 shows blanching with cheesecloth. (Continued at top of opposite page.)

SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR CANNING VEGETABLES

The addition of 1 level teaspoonful of salt to a jar of vegetables is for quart jars. For
pint jar use Vz teaspoonful. For 2 quart jar use 2 teaspoonfuls.

Asparagus

Wash, scrape off scales and tough skin.
With a string bind together enough for one
jar. Blanch tough ends from 5 to 10 min-
utes, then turn so that the entire bundle is
blanched 5 minutes longer. Cold-dip. Re-
move string. Pack, with tip ends up. Add
1 level teaspoonful of salt and cover with boil-
ing water. Put on rubber top and adjust top
bail or screw top on with thumb and little
finger. Sterilize 120 minutes in hot- water
bath. Remove jars, complete seal and cool.
With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 60 min-
utes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

Beets

Use only small ones. Wash and cut off all
but an inch or two of root and leaves. Blanch
5 minutes, cold-dip and scrape off skin and
stems. They may be packed in jar sliced or
whole. Add 1 level teaspoonful of salt and
cover with boiling water. Put on rubber and
top and adjust top bail or screw top on with
thumb and little finger. Sterilize 90 minutes
in hot-water bath. Remove jars, complete
seal and cool.

With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 60
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

Young, tender beet tops should be canned
as greens.

Cabbage and Brussels Sprouts

The method is the same as for cauliflower,
except that the vegetables are not soaked
in salted water. Blanch 5 to 10 minutes.
Sterilize 120 minutes in hot-water bath.

With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 60
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

Carrots

Select small, tender carrots, leave an inch
or two of stems, wash, blanch 5 minutes and
cold -dip. Remove stems and scrape off
skins. Pack whole or in slices, add 1
level teaspoonful of salt and cover with
boiling water. Put on rubber and top and
adjust top bail or screw top on with thumb
and little finger. Sterilize 90 minutes in
hot-water bath. Remove jars, complete seal
and cool.

With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 60
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

FIG. 22

FIG. 23

FIG. 24

After partially sealing jars, place them in hot-water bath. FIG. 22 shows jar being placed in ordinary
household wash-boiler for sterilizing. FIG. 23 shows the adjustment of cover, with cloth to give tighter fit
and make it hold the steam. FIG. 24 shows jars being removed. (Continued at bottom of next page.)

CAN ALL FOOD THAT CAN BE CANNED

FIG. 19

FIG. 20

FIG. 21

After blanching, as shown in FIGS. 17 and 18, vegetables and fruits are cold-dipped, as shown in FIG. 19.
In FIG. 20 is shown the process of filling jar, by use of funnel. FIG. 21 shows the partial sealing of jar. With
bail-top jar adjust top bail only; with screw top jar screw top on lightly. (Continued at bottom of opposite page.)

Cauliflower

Wash and divide head into small pieces.
Soak in salted water 1 hour, which will re-
move insects if any are present. Blanch 3
minutes, cold-dip and pack in jar. Add 1
level teaspoonful of salt and cover with boil-
ing water. Put on rubber and top and adjust
top bail or screw top on with thumb and little
finger. Sterilize 60 minutes in hot-water
bath. Remove jars, complete seal and cool.

With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 30
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

Corn

Canning corn on the cob, except for exhibi-
tion purposes, is a waste of space, time and
fuel. For home use remove the husks and
silk, blanch tender ears 5 minutes, older ears
10 minutes, cold-dip, and cut from cob.
Pack lightly to within 1 inch of the top of the
jar, as corn swells during sterilization. Add
1 level teaspoonful of salt and cover with boil-
ing water, put on rubber and top, adjust top
bail or screw top on with thumb and little
finger. Sterilize 180 minutes in hot-water
bath. Remove jars, complete seal and cool.
(When canned on cob 1 hour longer of sterili-
zation is necessary).

With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 90
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

Greens

Wash until no dirt can be felt in the bottom
of the pan. Blanch in steam 15 minutes.
(Mineral matter is lost if blanched in water.)
Cold-dip, cut in small pieces and pack
or pack whole. Do not pack too tightly.
Add 1 level teaspoonful of salt and cover
with boiling water. Put on rubber and top
and adjust top bail or screw top on with
thumb and little finger. Sterilize 120 minutes
in hot-water bath. Remove jars, complete
seal and cool.

With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 60
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

Lima Beans

Shell. Blanch 5 to 10 minutes. Cold-
dip, pack in jar, add 1 level teaspoonful of
salt and cover with boiling water. Put on
rubber and top, and adjust top bail or screw
top on with thumb and little finger. Sterilize
180 minutes in hot -water bath. Remove
jars, complete seal and cool.

With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 60
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

Okra

Wash and remove stems. Blanch 5 to 10
minutes, cold-dip and pack in jar. Add 1
level teaspoonful of salt and cover with boiling

FIG. 25

FIG. 26

FIG. 27

After removal from hot-water bath jars are inverted to test for leakage (FiG. 25) and left inverted until
cooled. They should be cooled rapidly, but protected from draft. FIG. 26 shows wrapping jar in brown paper
to exclude light. FIG. 27 shows storage on shelves. If shelves are exposed to light, do not neglect wrapping.

HOME CANNING MANUAL

A WORD OF CAUTION

It must not be forgotten that success in canning demands careful attention to every
detail. No step should be slighted. Follow one set of instructions closely and do not
attempt to combine two, no matter how good both of them may be. To attempt to
follow two sets will inevitably cause spoilage.

The experience of the United States Department of Agriculture during the last five
years indicates that 75 per cent, of the spoilage has been due to the use of poor rubbers,
the use of old tops on screw-top jars, and improper sealing resulting from the use of de-
fective joints, springs and caps. Another fruitful source of trouble is that people some-
times undertake to can stale or wilted vegetables. No amount of sterilizing will over-
come staleness. Careless handling is also sure to cause loss. Absolute cleanliness in
every step is essential.

In sterilizing care must be exercised to see that the temperature is high enough
and maintained for the proper length of time.

IN OTHER WORDS DO NOT BLAME THE METHOD FOR FAILURE.
FOLLOW DIRECTIONS CAREFULLY AND PREVENT FAILURE.

water. Put on rubber and top, adjust top bail
or screw top on with thumb and little finger.
Sterilize 120 minutes in hot-water bath. Re-
move jars, complete seal and cool.

With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 60
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

Parsnips

The method is the same as for carrots.
Peas

Those which are not fully grown are best
for canning. Shell, blanch 5 to 10 minutes
and cold-dip. Pack in jar, add 1 teaspoonful
of salt and cover with boiling water. If the
jar is packed too full some of the peas will
break and give a cloudy appearance to the
liquid. Put on rubber and top and adjust
top bail or screw top on with thumb and little
finger. Sterilize 180 minutes in hot -water
bath. Remove jars, complete seal and cool.

With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 60
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

Peppers

Wash, stem and remove seeds. Blanch
5 to 10 minutes, cold-dip and
pack in jar. Add 1 level tea-
spoonful of salt. Cover with
boiling water, put on rubber and
top and adjust top bail or screw
top on with thumb and little
finger. Sterilize 120 minutes in
hot-water bath. Remove jars,
complete seal and cool.

With Steam Pressure Outfit
sterilize 60 minutes at 5 to 10
pounds pressure.

Pimentos

Place in a hot oven from 6 to
8 minutes. Peel, remove seeds,
and pack in flat layers. Do not
add any liquid. Sterilize 35 minutes
in hot- water bath.

Pumpkin, Winter Squash
(a) Remove seed.

thick. Pack in jar and sterilize 120 minutes
in hot-water bath. Remove jars, complete
seal and cool.

(b) Another method is to prepare the
pieces as in (a), blanch 3 minutes, cold-dip,
pack in jars and add 1 level teaspoonful of
salt to each quart jar. Cover with boiling
water and sterilize as (a).

With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 60
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

Salsify

Wash, blanch 5 minutes, cold-dip and
scrape off skin. It may be packed whole or
in slices. Add 1 teaspoonful of salt, and
cover with boiling water. Put on top and
rubber and adjust top bail or screw top on
with thumb and little finger. Sterilize 90
minutes in hot-water bath. Remove jars,
complete seal and cool.

With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 60
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

String Beans

Wash and remove ends and strings and
cut into small pieces if desired. Blanch from
5 to 10 minutes, depending on
age. Beans which have been prop-
erly blanched will bend readily
without breaking. Cold-dip, pack
immediately in jar, add 1 level
teaspoonful salt and cover with
boiling water. Put on rubber
and top and adjust top bail or
screw top on with thumb and
little finger. Sterilize 120 minutes
in hot-water bath. Remove jars,
complete seal and cool.

With Steam Pressure Outfit
sterilize 60 minutes at 5 to 10
pounds pressure.

Summer Squash
Pare, cut in slices or small pieces
and blanch 10 minutes. Cold-dip,
pack in jars, add 1 level tea-

FIG. 28. A simple test for ?poonful of salt, cover with boil-
Cut the proper sealing of bail-top ing water, put on rubber and top

pumpkin or squash into strips, jars is to loosen top bail and and adjust top bail or screw top
Peel and remove stringy center. ££ ^VJ^L^c?! on with thumb.

01- • i • -i'i -i M top with the fingers.

blice into small pieces and boil until step No. 14, page 9.

Sterilize 120

little finger,
mnutes in hot-

CAN ALL FOOD THAT CAN BE CANNED

water bath. Remove jars, complete seal and
cool.

With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 60
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

Tomatoes

Take medium sized tomatoes. Wash them,
blanch \% minutes or until skins are loose,
cold-dip and remove the skins. Pack whole
in jar, filling the spaces with tomato pulp
made by cooking large and broken tomatoes
until done and then straining and adding 1

level teaspoonful of salt to each quart of the
pulp. Put on rubber and top and adjust top
bail or screw top on with thumb and little
finger. Sterilize 22 minutes in hot- water
bath. Remove jars, complete seal and cool.

With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 15
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

Tomatoes may be cut in pieces, packed
closely into jars and sterilized 25 minutes in
hot-water bath. If this is done do not add
any liquid, as the liquid in the tomatoes will
be sufficient.

THE CANNING OF FRUITS

For fruits, as well as for vegetables, the
Single Period Cold-pack method is best.
With some exceptions, as shown in the table
on page 2, fruits should be blanched before
canning. When fruits are intended for table
use, syrup should be poured over them to fill
the jars. In canning fruits to be used for
pie-filling or in cooking, where unsweetened
fruits are desirable, boiling water is used in-
stead of syrup, and the sterilization period in
hot-water bath is thirty minutes.
SYRUPS

In the directions given various grades of
syrup are mentioned. These syrups are made
as follows:

Thin — 1 part sugar to 4 parts water.

Medium — 1 part sugar to 2 parts water.

Thick — 1 part sugar to 1 part water.

Heat the water to boiling, then add the
sugar gradually, stirring constantly and keep-
ing the liquid boiling until the sugar is dis-
solved. Syrup made in this way requires
little or no skimming.

Use thin syrup with sweet fruits. Use
medium syrup with sour fruits. Thick syrup
is used in candying and preserving.

Because of the shortage of sugar it is
important to use substitutes wherever pos-
sible. A very satisfactory syrup for fruits
may be made of one part of light corn syrup
or honey to three parts of water or juice of
the fruit. Add the honey or corn syrup to
the liquid and simmer ten minutes.

Allow two cupfuls of syrup to each quart
jar of fruit.

SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR CANNING FRUITS

Apples

Wash, pare, quarter or slice and drop into
weak salt water. Blanch \J>4 minutes, cold-
dip, pack into jar and cover with water or
thin syrup. Put on rubber and top and
adjust top bail or screw top on with thumb
and little finger. Sterilize for 20 minutes in
hot- water bath. Remove jars, complete seal
and cool.

With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 8
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

Apples shrink during sterilization and for
this reason economy of space is obtained by
canning them in the form of sauce instead of
in quarters or slices. In canning sauce fill
the jars with the hot sauce and sterilize 12
minutes in hot-water bath.

Apricots

Use only ripe fruit. Wash, cut in half and
remove pit. Blanch 1 to 2 minutes. Pack in
jar and cover with medium syrup. Put on
rubber and top and adjust top bail or screw
top on with thumb and little finger. Sterilize
16 minutes in hot-water bath. Remove
jars, complete seal, cool and store.

With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 10
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

Blackberries

Wash, pack closely and cover with medium
syrup. Put on rubber and top and adjust

top bail or screw «n top with thumb and little
finger. Sterilize 16 minutes in hot-water
bath. Remove jars, complete seal and cool.
With, Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 10
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

Blueberries Loganberries

Currants Raspberries

The method is the same as for blackberries.
Sterilize 16 minutes in hot- water bath.

With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 10
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

Cherries

Cherries should be pitted before being
canned. Pack in jar and cover with medium
syrup. Put on rubber and top and adjust top
bail or screw on top with thumb and little
finger. Sterilize 16 minutes in hot-water
bath. Remove jars, complete seal and cool.

With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 10
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

Fruit Juices

See "Winter Jelly Making" on page 17.
Pears

Peel and drop into salt water to prevent
discoloration. Blanch \}4 minutes. Pack in
jar, whole or in quarters, and cover with thin
syrup. Put on rubber and top and adjust
top bail or screw on top with thumb and little

HOME CANNING MANUAL

finger. Sterilize 20 minutes in hot-water
bath. Remove jars, complete seal and cool.
A slice of lemon may be added to the con-
tents of each jar for flavor.

With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 8
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

Peaches

Blanch in boiling water long enough to
loosen skins. Some peaches do not peel
readily even if dipped in boiling water. In
such cases omit dipping in boiling water and
pare them. Cold dip and remove skins. Cut
in half and remove stones. Pack in jars and
cover with thin s rup. Put on rubber and
top and adjust top bail or screw on top with
thumb and little finger. Sterilize 16 minutes
in hot-water bath. Remove jars, complete
seal and cool.

With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 10
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

Plums

Wash, pack in jar and cover with medium
syrup. Put on rubber and top and adjust
top bail or screw on top with thumb and
little finger. Sterilize 16 minutes in hot- water
bath. Remove jars, complete seal and cool.

With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 10
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

Pineapples

Pare, remove eyes, shred or cut into slices
or small pieces, blanch 3 to 5 minutes, accord-
ing to size of pieces, and pack in jar. Cover

with medium syrup. Put on rubber and top
and adjust top bail or screw on top with thumb
and little finger. Sterilize 30 minutes in hot-
water bath. Remove jars, complete seal and
cool.

With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 10
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

Quinces

The method is the same as for apples.
They may be canned with apples. Sterilize
20 minutes in hot- water bath

With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 8
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

Rhubarb

Wash and cut into short lengths. Cover
with boiling water or thin syrup. Put on
rubber and top and adjust top bail or screw
on top with thumb and little finger. Sterilize
20 minutes in hot-water bath. Remove jars,
complete seal and cool.

With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 15
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

Strawberries

Wash and pack closely in jar. Cover with
medium syrup, put on rubber and top and
adjust top bail or screw on top with thumb
and little finger. Sterilize 16 minutes in hot-
water bath. Remove jars, complete seal and
cool.

With Steam Pressure Outfit sterilize 10
minutes at 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

CANNING IN TIN

In sections where there is a large yield of
fruits or vegetables canning m tin in the home
is practical. This is especially true when
the goods are to be sold, as tin cans are more
easily transported than glass containers. Tin
cans of standard sizes may be purchased in
sanitary or cap and hole type. The No. 2
can is most satisfactory for canned vege-
tables and small fruits. No. 3 is used for
peaches, pears, and tomatoes. Enameled
tins should be used when canning berries,
plums, cherries, beets, pumpkins, and greens.

To can in tin special equipment is needed.

This includes a capping steel, a tipping cop-
per, fire pot for heating tools, flux, sal am-
moniac and wire solder. Sanitary cans re-
quire a special machine for sealing, which
eliminates the use of all other equipment.

Fruits and vegetables are prepared as
shown in the directions given for the cold-
pack method on pages 8 and 9. The only
variation is that after the product is packed
the cap is soldered and cans are then put
into the sterilizer and exhausted from two to
fifteen minutes, depending upon the kind
of contents. Exhausting is necessary as it

A WORD AS TO BOTULISM

Wide-spread attention has been attracted by the statement that vegetables canned
by the Single Period Cold-pack Method had caused cases of poisoning technically
known as botulism. It has been declared that the bacillus botulinus, which produces
botulism, was a menace to all users of vegetables canned by this method. Such state-
ments were obviously circulated by those seeking to discourage American food-thrift.
Expert research workers of the National War Garden Commission and the United
States Department of Agriculture agree that there is no danger of botulism from eating
vegetables which have been canned by carefully following the directions issued by the
Commission or the Department. CARE MUST BE TAKEN, HOWEVER, TO
FOLLOW DIRECTIONS EXPLICITLY. Cooking canned vegetables for 10 minutes
at the boiling point, after opening the jar for use, will remove any possible danger.
This applies also to Apricots and Pears.

CAN ALL FOOD THAT CAN BE CANNED

FIG. 29

FIG. 30

FIG. 31

CANNING IN TIN. FIG. 29. Wiping juice and syrup from groove. FIG. 30. Applying cap and wiping groove
with brush dipped in soldering fluid. FIG. 31. Placing clean hot capping steel on can and melting solder into groove.

drives out the air which will cause the can to
bulge, giving it the same appearance as when
spoilage has occurred. After exhausting,
the cans are removed from the sterilizer and
the vent hole is closed. The cans are re-
turned to the sterilizer and sterilized, follow-
ing the time-table given on page 2. At the
end of the sterilization period remove cans
and plunge immediately into cold water.
Do not stack cans closely until cold.

After packing, label each can by writing
the name of contents on the side. If in-
tended for sale affix a label just before shipping.
Do not allow paste to touch the can, as it
will cause the tin to rust. The label should
be large enough to encircle the can and over-
lap at the edges. Put the paste on one of the
overlapping edges and draw label tightly
around can, pasting the two edges together.

To seal, wipe top of can clean and dry
and then put the cap in place, applying flux
carefully to the groove. Do not allow the
flux to enter can, as it is poisonous. Hold
the cap in place with the center rod and lower
the hot capping iron squarely and firmly on
the solder rim of the cap, or melt a little

solder in the groove by holding the solder wire
against the lower part of the capping steel.
Revolve the iron to melt the solder and seal
the can. Lift the capping iron with a sudden
twist, holding the center rod in place. When
solder has hardened remove center rod.

To tip, dry top of can and apply flux to
the hole in the center of the cap. Hold the
solder in the left hand, brush it with the hot
tipping iron so only a bead will drop and
close hole.

The steels must be kept clean and well
coated with solder. To do this, if capping
steel is rusty, clean with a file, brick or emery
paper. To tin the capping steel heat and
dip in flux, then heat again until red hot and
dip in sal ammoniac and solder until well
coated. Sal ammoniac is made by mixing
equal parts of dry sal ammoniac with solder
chips. Coat the tipping copper in same way.

Flux is made as follows: To muriatic acid
add strips of zinc until no more will dissolve.
Strain through a cloth and when ready to use
add an equal quantity of water. Flux which
is used for tinning the tools should not be
used for soldering.

FIG. 32

FIG. 33

FIG. 34

CANNING IN TIN, continued. FIG. 32. Turning steel to distribute solder. Fig. 33. Raising steel to allow
solder t9 harden after pressing down on center rod. FIG. 34. Sealing with drop of solder after exhausting can
and wiping vent hole.

HOME CANNING MANUAL

PRINCIPLES OF JELLY MAKING

To be satisfactory, jelly must be made from
fruit juice containing pectin and acid. Pectin
is a substance in the fruit which is soluble
in hot water and which, when cooked with
sugar and acid, gives, after cooling, the right
consistency to jelly.

Fruits to be used should be sound, just ripe
or slightly under-ripe, and gathered but a
short time. Wash them, remove stems and
cut large fruits into pieces.
With juicy fruits add just
enough water to prevent
burning while cooking. In
using fruits which are not
juicy cover them with water.
Cook slowly until the fruits
are soft. Strain through a
bag made of flannel or two
thicknesses of cheesecloth or
similar material.

TELLY MAKING WITH
PECTIN TEST

To determine if the juice
contains pectin, boil 1 table-
spoonful and cool. To this add 1 table-
spoonful of grain or wood alcohol and mix,
gently rotating the glass. Let stand for a
while. If a solid mass — which is pectin —
collects, this indicates that in making jelly
one part of sugar or sugar substitute (corn
syrup or honey) should be used to one part
of juice. If the pectin collects in two or three
masses, use % to ^ as much sugar or sub-
stitute as juice. If it collects in several
small particles use half. If the presence of
pectin is not shown as described, it should be
supplied by the addition of the juice of
slightly under-ripe fruits, such as sour apples,
currants, crab-apples, green grapes, green
gooseberries or wild cherries.

Measure the juice and sugar or substitute.
Sugar may be spread on a platter and heated.
Do not let it scorch. When the juice begins
to boil add the sugar or substitute. Boil
rapidly. This is important. The jelly point
is reached when the juice drops as one
mass from the side of a spoon or when two
drops run together and fall as one from the
side of the spoon. Skim the juice, pour into
sterilized glasses and cool as quickly as pos-
sible. Currant and green grape juice require
8 to 10 minutes boiling to reach the jelly
point while all other juices require from 20
to 30 minutes.

When the jelly is cold pour over the sur-
face a layer of hot paraffin. A toothpick
run around the edge while the paraffin is still
hot will give a better seal. Protect the par-
affin with a cover of metal or paper.

FIG. 35. Straining fruit juice.

Three or more extractions of juice may be
made from fruit. When the first extraction
is well drained cover the pulp with water and
let it simmer 30 minutes. Drain, and test
juice for pectin. For the third extraction
proceed in the same manner. The juice re-
sulting from the second and third extractions
may be combined. If the third extraction
shows much pectin a fourth extraction may
be made. The first pectin
test should be saved for com-
parison with the others.

If the second, third or
fourth extraction of juice is
found thinner than the first
extraction, boil it until it is
as thick as the first, then
add the sugar or substitute
called for.

JELLY MAKING WITH-
OUT TEST

The test for pectin is de-
sirable, but it is not essential.
A large percentage of house-
wives make jelly without this test, and satis-
factory results may be obtained without it if
care is taken to follow directions and to use
the right fruits. For the inexperienced jelly
maker the safe rule is to confine jelly-making
to the fruits which are ideal for the purpose.
These include currants, sour apples, crab-
apples, under-ripe grapes, quinces, rasp-
berries, blackberries, blueberries, wild cher-
ries, and green gooseberries. These contain
pectin and acid in sufficient quantities.

In making jelly without the alcohol test,
with the juice of currants and under-ripe
grapes use 1 cup of sugar to 1 cup of juice.
With raspberries, blackberries, blueberries,
sour apples, crab-apples, quinces, wild
cherries and green goosebe ries use ^ cup
of sugar to 1 cup of juice. This applies to
the first extraction of juice and to the later
extractions when they have been boiled to
the consistency of the first extraction.

Satisfactory jelly may be made by using
% to 34 cup corn syrup or honey to 1 cup of
fruit juice, following the general directions
for jelly making. The proportion of sugar
substitute will depend upon the acidity and
pectin content of the fruit juice. On account
of the water content of the corn syrup the
juice will require a little longer cooking before
the jelly point is reached.

Fruits which contain pectin but lack suffi-
cient acid are peach, pear, quince, sweet
apple and guava. With these acid may be
added by the use of juice of sour apples,
crab-apples or under-ripe grapes.

Strawberries and cherries have acidity but

CAN ALL FOOD THAT CAN BE CANNED

lack pectin. The pectin may be supplied by
the addition of the juice of sour apples, crab-
apples or under-ripe grapes.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR JELLY
MAKING

Wash, remove stems, and with the larger
fruits cut into quarters. Put into a saucepan
and cover with water. Allow to simmer until
the fruit is tender. Berries require the addi-
tion of only a small amount of water. A
double boiler is excellent for heating a small
quantity. Put into a bag to drain, after
wringing the bag out in scalding water. If
desired, test juice for pectin as described.
Measure juice and sugar or syrup in
proportions indicated by the test for pectin or as
directed under "Jelly Making Without Test."
Add the sugar or syrup when the juice begins
to boil. The sugar or syrup may be heated
before being added. This avoids chilling
the juice. When the boiling juice reaches
the jelly point as shown on page 16, skim
and pour into sterilized glasses.

WINTER JELLY MAKING

Fruit juices may be canned and made into
jelly as wanted during the winter. The use

of sugar is not necessary until the actual
jelly making is undertaken.

To prepare for canning pour the juice into
sterilized bottles or jars. Put into hot- water
bath, with the water reaching to the neck of
the containers. Allow to simmer 20 to 30 min-
utes. If jars are used half seal them during
the simmering and complete seal when removed
from the sterilizer. Put absorbent cotton
into the necks of bottles and when the bottles
are taken from the bath put in corks, forcing
the cotton into the neck. Corks should first
be boiled and dried to prevent shrinking.
They may also be boiled in paraffin to make
them air-tight. After corking the bottles
apply melted paraffin to the tops with a
brush, to make an air-tight seal. Each bottle
should be labeled. In making jelly from
these juices during the winter follow the
"General Directions for Jelly Making."

Any fruit juice may be bottled following
the above method and used for beverages and
for flavoring desserts. Store jelly and bottled
juices in a cool, dark, dry place.

The need for conserving sugar makes winter
jelly making an especially useful form of con-
servation in these days of shortage.

FRUIT BUTTERS

Fruit butters may be made from good
sound fruits or the sound portions of fruits
which are wormy or have been bruised.
Wash, pare and remove seeds if there are any.
Cover with water and cook 3 or 4 hours at a
low temperature, stirring often, until the
mixture is of the consistency of thick apple
sauce. Add sugar, syrup or honey to taste
when the boiling is two- thirds done. Spices
may be added to suit the taste when the
boiling is completed. If the pulp is coarse
it should be put through a wire sieve or
colander. Pour the butter into sterilized jar,
put on rubber and cover and adjust top bail.
Put into a container having a cover and false
bottom. Pour in an inch or so of water and
sterilize quart jar or smaller jar 5 minutes
after the steam begins to escape. Remove,
push snap in place and cool.

Apple Butter with Cider
Four quarts of sweet or sterilized cider
should be boiled down to 2 quarts. To this
add 4 quarts of apples peeled and cut in small
pieces. If the texture of the apples is coarse
they should be boiled and put through a
strainer before being added to the cider.
Boil this mixture until the cider does not
separate from the pulp. When two-thirds
done add one pound of sugar, syrup or honey.
One-half teaspoonful each of cinnamon, all-
spice and cloves may be added. Pour into
sterilized jars and sterilize 5 minutes in steam.

Apple and pear butter may be made by
following the directions for apple butter with
cider but omitting the cider.

Peach Butter

Dip peaches in boiling water long enough
to loosen the skins. Dip in cold water, peel
and stone them. If peaches do not peel
readily when dipped in boiling water, omit
dipping and pare them. Mash and cook them
without adding any water. Add half as much
sugar, syrup or honey as pulp and cook until
thick. Pour into sterilized jars and sterilize 5
minutes in steam.

Plum butter may be made following the
directions for peach butter.

Apple Butter with Grape Juice

To every 4 quarts of strained apple sauce
add 1 pint of grape juice, 1 cup of brown
sugar, syrup or honey and X teaspoonful of
salt. Cook slowly, stirring often, until of the
desired thickness. When done stir in 1 tea-
spoonful of cinnamon, pack in hot jars and
sterilize 5 minutes in steam.

Dried Peach Butter

Soak dried peaches over night. Cook
slowly until tender. To each 2 pounds of
dried peaches add 1 quart of canned peaches
and 1 $4 pounds of sugar, syrup or honey. If
a fine texture is desired, strain pulp through a
colander. Cook slowly, stirring often, until
thick. Pack in hot jars and sterilize 5 minutes
in steam.

PART II

HOME DRYING MANUAL

Drying vegetables and fruits for winter use is one of the vital national
needs. As a national need it becomes a patriotic duty. As a patriotic
duty it should be done in every family.

Failure to prepare vegetables and fruits for winter use by Drying is one of
the worst examples of American extravagance. During the summer nature
provides an over-abundance. This year, with the planting of 5,285,000 home
food gardens, stimulated by the National War Garden Commission and the
United States Department of Agriculture, this abundance will be especially
large. The excess supply is not meant to go to waste. The over-abundance
of the summer should be made the normal supply of the winter. The indi-
vidual family should conduct Drying on a liberal scale. In no other way can
there be assurance that America's food supply will meet our own needs. In
no other way, surely, can we answer the enormous demands made upon us
for furnishing food for our European Allies.

IMPORTANCE OF FOOD THRIFT

Winter buying of vegetables and fruits is
costly. It means that you pay transporta-
tion, cold-storage and commission merchants'
charges and profits. Summer is the time of
lowest prices. Summer, therefore, is the time
to buy for winter use.

Every pound of food products grown
this year will be needed to combat Food
Famine. The loss that can
be prevented, the money
saving that can be effected
and the transportation relief
that can be brought about
make it essential that every
American household should
make vegetable and fruit
Drying a part of its program
of Food Thrift. The results can be gained
in no other way.

Vegetable and fruit Drying have been
little practiced for a generation or more.
Its revival on a general scale is the pur-
pose of this Manual. There is no desire
to detract from the importance of canning
operations. Drying must not be regarded
as taking the place of the preservation of
vegetables and fruits in tins and glass jars.
It must be viewed as an important adjunct
thereto. Drying is important and economical
in every home, whether on the farm, in the
village, in the town, or in the city. For city

FIG. 1. Carrots cut lengthwise.

dwellers it has the special advantage that
little storage space is required for the dried
product. One hundred pounds of some fresh
vegetables will reduce to 10 pounds in dry-
ing without loss of food value or much of
the flavor.

This year's need for vegetable and fruit
Drying is given added emphasis by the
shortage of tin for the man-
ufacture of cans. This con-
dition has created an un-
usual demand for glass jars.
For this year, therefore, Dry-
ing is of more than normal
importance. Dried products
can be stored in receptacles
that could not be used for
canning. This is excellent conservation.

DRYING IS SIMPLE
A strong point in connection with vege-
table and fruit Drying is the ease with
which it may be done. The process is simple.
The cost is slight. In every home the neces-
sary outfit, in its simplest form, is already at
hand. Effective Drying may be done on
plates or dishes placed in the oven, with the
oven door partially open. It may be done
on the back of the kitchen stove, with these
same utensils, while the oven is being used
for baking. It may also be done on sheets of

DRY ALL FOOD THAT CAN BE DRIED

paper or lengths of muslin spread in the sun
and protected from insects and dust.

Apparatus for home Drying on a larger
scale may be made at home or bought at
small cost. Still larger equipment may be
bought for community drying operations in
which a group of families combine for co-
operative work, at a school or other con-

FIG. 2. Potatoes prepared by use of meat chopper.

venient center. This latter is especially rec-
ommended as giving the use of the most im-
proved outfits at slight cost to the individual
family. See "Community Work," page 3.

Best results are obtained by rapid drying,
but care must be taken not to let the tem-
perature rise above the limit specified in the
directions and table.

One of the chief essentials in Drying is free
circulation of air, in order that the moist air
may escape and dry air take its place.

METHODS OF DRYING

For home Drying satisfactory results are
obtained by any one of three principal
methods. These are:

1. Sun Drying.

2. Drying by Artificial Heat.

3. Drying by Air-blast. (With an electric
or other motor fan.)

These methods may be combined to good
advantage.

FIG. 3. Apples peeled and sliced for drying.

SUN DRYING

Sun Drying has the double advantage of
requiring no expense for fuel and of freedom
from danger of overheating. For sun Dry-
ing of vegetables and fruits the simplest form
is to spread the slices or pieces on sheets of
plain paper or lengths of muslin nailed to
strips of wood and expose them to the sun.
Muslin is to be preferred if there is danger of
sticking. Trays should be used for large
quantities. Sun Drying requires bright,

hot days and a breeze. Once or twice a day
the product should be turned or stirred and
the dry pieces taken out. The drying prod-
uct should be covered with cheesecloth
tacked to a frame for protection from dust
and flying insects. Care must be taken to
provide protection from rain, dew and moths.
During rains and just before sunset the prod-
ucts should be taken indoors for protection.

TRAYS FOR SUN DRYING

To make a tray cheaply for use in sun
drying, take strips of lumber three-quarters
of an inch thick and 2 inches wide for the
sides and ends. To form the bottom, laths
should be nailed to these strips, with spaces
of one-eighth of an inch between laths to
permit air circulation. A length of 4 feet,
corresponding to the standard lengths of
laths, is economical. Nail 3 strips across
the bottom in the opposite direction from
the laths to prevent warping and to allow
space when the trays are stacked. The

FIG. 4. Small outdoor drier, easily made at home.
It has glass top, sloping for exposure to sun. Tray
is shown partly projecting, to indicate construction.

trays should be of uniform size in order that
they may be stacked together for conve-
nience in handling. Never put trays directly
on the ground. They should rest on supports
a few feet above the ground and should face
the south or southwest so as to receive the
sun's rays the longest possible time.

A small homemade Sun Drier, easily
constructed (Fig. 4), is made of light strips
of wood, a sheet of glass, a small amount of
galvanized wire screen and some cheese-
cloth. A convenient size for the glass top
is 18 by 24 inches. To hold the glass make
a light wooden frame of strips of wood >£
inch thick and 1 inch wide. This frame should
have legs of material 1 by 1^ inches, with a
length of 12 inches for the front legs and 18
inches for those in the rear. This will cause
the top to slope, which aids in circulation of
air and gives direct exposure to the rays of the
sun. As a tray support, nail a strip of wood
to the legs on each of the four sides, about

HOME DRYING MANUAL

4 inches below the top framework and sloping
parallel with the top. The tray is made of
thin strips of wood about 2 inches wide and
has a galvanized wire screen bottom. There
will be a space of about 2 inches between the
top edges of the tray and the glass top of the
Drier, to allow for circulation. Protect both
sides, the bottom and the front end of the
Drier with cheesecloth tacked on securely and
snugly, to exclude insects and dust with-
out interfering with circulation. At the
rear end place a cheesecloth curtain tacked
at the top but swinging free below, to allow
the tray to be moved in and out. Brace

FIG. 5. Commercial drier for use in oven.

the bottom of this curtain with a thin strip
of wood, as is done in window shades. This
curtain is to be fastened to the legs by buttons
when the tray is in place.

DRYING BY ARTIFICIAL HEAT

Drying by artificial heat is done in the oven
or on top of a cookstove or range, in trays
suspended over the stove or in a specially
constructed drier built at home or purchased.

When drying with artificial heat a ther-
mometer must be used. This should be
placed in the drier and frequently observed.

OVEN DRYING

The simplest form of Oven Drying is to
place small quantities of foodstuffs on plates
in a slow oven. In this way leftovers and
other bits of food may be saved for winter
use with slight trouble and dried while the
top of the stove is being used. This is
especially effective for sweet corn. A few
sweet potatoes, apples or peas, or even a
single turnip, may be dried and saved. To
keep the heat from being too great leave the
oven door partially open. For oven use a
simple tray may be made of galvanized wire
screen of convenient size, with the edges

bent up for an inch or two on each side.
At each corner this tray should have a leg
an inch or two in length, to hold it up from

FIG. 6. Commercial drier which may be placed on
top of cookstove or suspended over a lamp.

the bottom of the oven and permit circula-
tion of air around the product.

An oven drier which can be bought at a
low price is shown in Fig. 5.

DRYING ON TOP OF OR OVER STOVE

An effective Drier for use over a stove or
range may be made easily at home. Such
a Drier is shown in Fig. 9. For the frame
use strips of wood >£-inch thick and 2 inches
wide. The trays or shelves are made of
galvanized wire screen of small mesh tacked
to the supports; or separate trays, sliding on
strips attached to the framework, are de-
sirable. This Drier may be suspended from
the ceiling over the kitchen stove or range,
or over an oil,
gasoline, or gas
stove, and it
may be used
while cooking is
being done. If
an oil stove is
used there must
be a tin or galva-
nized iron bot-
tom 4 inches
below the lowest
tray, to prevent
the fumes of the
oil from reaching
and passing
through the ma-
terial which is
to be dried, and FlGi 7. Commercial drier for use
to distribute the on stove,

heat. A bottom of this kind may be easily
attached to any Drier, either home-made or
commercial. A framework crane as shown in
Fig. 9 makes it possible for this Drier to
be swung aside when not in use.

In Fig. 8 is shown another form of Home-
made Cookstove Drier, more pretentious
than that shown in Fig. 9, but still easily
and cheaply made. A good size for this is:
base, 16 by 24 inches; height, 36 inches. The
lower part or supporting framework, 6 inches
high, is made of galvanized sheet iron,

DRY ALL FOOD THAT CAN BE DRIED

slightly flaring toward the bottom, and with
two ventilating holes in each of the four
sides. The frame, which rests on this base,
is made of strips of wood 1 or 1^4 inches wide.

FIG. 8. Home-made drier of galvanized iron,
for use on stove.

Wooden strips, 1>£ inches wide, and 3 inches
apart, serve to brace the sides and furnish
supports for the trays.

In a Drier of the dimensions given there
is room for eight trays. The sides, top and
back are of galvanized iron or tin sheets,
tacked to the framework, although thin

FIG. 9. Home-made drier with swinging crane.

strips of wood may be used instead of the
metal. Small hinges and thumb-latch are
provided for the door. Galvanized sheet
iron, with numerous small holes in it, is
used for making the bottom of the Drier.
To prevent direct heat from coming in con-

tact with the product, and also to distribute
the heat by radiation, a piece of galvanized
sheet iron is placed 2 inches above the bot-
tom. This piece is 3 inches shorter and 3
inches narrower than the bottom and rests
on two wires fastened to the sides.

The trays are made of wooden frames of
1-inch strips, to which is tacked galvanized
wire screen. Each tray should be 3 inches
shorter than the Drier and enough narrower
to allow it to slide easily on the supports in
being put in or taken out.

In placing the trays in the Drier push the
lower one back as far as it will go, leaving
a 3-inch space in front. Place the next tray
even with the front, leaving the space at
the back. Alternate all the trays in this
way, to facilitate the circulation of the
heated air. It is well to have a ventilating
opening, 6 by 2 inches, in the top of the
Drier to discharge
moisture. The
trays should be
shifted during the
drying process, to
procure uniform-
ity of drying.

One of the sim-
plest forms of
homemade Drier FlG« ia Commercial drier,
is a tray with bottom of galvanized wire
screen, suspended over stove or range, as
shown in Fig. 12.

Commercial Driers

Cookstove Driers are in the market in
several types. One of these, shown in Fig.
7, has 'a series of trays in a framework,
forming a compartment. This is placed on
top of the stove. A similar drier is shown
in Fig. 10. Another, shown in Fig. 6,
is a shallow metal box to be filled with
water, and so constructed that one end may
rest on the back of the stove and the other on
a prop reaching to the floor, or it may be
suspended over a lamp.

Commercial Driers having their own fur-
naces may be bought at prices ranging from
$24 to $120. This type is pictured in Fig.
11. Some of these, in the smaller sizes, may
be bought without furnaces, and used on the
top of the kitchen stove, as Fig. 7. The cost
is from $16 upwards.

AIR-BLAST—ELECTRIC FAN

The use of an electric fan is an effective
means of Drying. Fig. 15 shows how this
household article is used. A motor fan run
by kerosene or alcohol serves the same pur-
pose. Sliced vegetables or fruits are placed
on trays and the fan placed close to one end
of the box holding the trays, with the current

HOME DRYING MANUAL

FIG. 11. Commercial drier
with furnace.

directed along the trays, lengthwise. Insects
must be kept out by the use of cheesecloth
or similar material. Drying by this proc-
ess may be done
in twenty-four
hours or less.
With sliced string
beans and shred-
ded sweet pota-
toes a few hours
are sufficient, if
the air is dry. Re-
arrange the trays
after a few hours,
as the drying
will be more
rapid nearest the
fan.

As artificial
heat is not used
in fan drying it
is important to blanch or steam the vege-
tables for the full specified time. It is also
necessary that all fan-dried products be
heated in an oven to 180° F. for 10 or 15
minutes before storing.

DETAILS OF DRYING

As a general rule vegetables or fruits,
for Drying, must be cut into slices or shreds,
with the skin removed. In using artificial
heat be careful to start at a comparatively
low temperature and gradually increase. De-
tails as to the proper scale of temperatures
for various vegetables and fruits are given in
the directions in this Manual and in the time-
table on page 28. To be able to gauge the
heat accurately a thermometer must be used.
An oven thermometer may be bought at slight
cost. If the thermometer is placed in a glass
of salad oil the true temperature of the oven
may be obtained.

FIG. 12. Simple tray drier made at home.

In the detailed instructions on pages 25, 26, 27
and 28, the temperatures used are Fahrenheit.
The temperatures indicated are for Drying by
artificial heat.

The actual time required for Drying can-
not be given, and the person in charge must

exercise judgment on this point. A little
experience will make it easy to determine
when products are sufficiently dried. When
first taken from the Drier vegetables should be
rather brittle, and fruits rather leathery and
pliable. One method of determining whether
fruit is dry enough is to squeeze a handful,
if the fruit separates when the hand is opened,
it is dry enough. Another way is to press a

FIG. 13. Electric range, useful for drying.

single piece; if no moisture comes to the sur-
face the piece is sufficiently dry. Berries are
dry enough if they stick to the hand but do
not crush when squeezed.

PREPARING MATERIAL FOR DRYING

A sharp kitchen knife will serve every
purpose in slicing and cutting vegetables
and fruits for Drying if no other device is
at hand. The thickness of the slices should
be from an eighth to a quarter of an inch.
Whether sliced or cut into strips the pieces
should be small so as to dry quickly. They
should not, however, be so small as to make
them hard to handle or to keep them from
being used to advantage in preparing dishes
for the table such as would be prepared from
fresh products.

Food choppers, crout slicers or rotary
slicers may be used
to prepare food for
drying.

Vegetables and
fruits for Drying
should be fresh,
mature and in prime
condition for eating.
As a general rule
vegetables will dry
better if cut into
small pieces with the
skins removed.
Berries are dried
whole. Apples,
quinces, peaches and

FIG. 14. Motor-fan, run
by kerosene 6r alcohol.

pears dry better if cut into rings or quarters.
Cleanliness is imperative. Knives and slicing

DRY ALL FOOD THAT CAN BE DRIED

devices must be carefully cleansed before and
after use. A knife that is not bright and
clean will discolor the product on which it
is used and this should be avoided.

BLANCHING

Blanching is desirable for successful
vegetable Drying. Blanching gives more
thorough cleansing, removes objectionable

FIG. 15. Series of trays enclosed in wall-board
box, for use with electric fan.

odors and flavors, kills protoplasm and
softens and loosens the fiber, allowing quicker
and more uniform evaporation of the mois-
ture, stops destructive chemical changes,
and gives better color. It is done by placing
the vegetables in a piece of cheesecloth, a
wire basket or other porous container and
plunging them into boiling water. A more
desirable way is to blanch in steam. For
small quantities a pail or deep kettle is ser-
viceable. A false bottom raised an inch or
more is necessary. Upon this rests a wire
basket or cheesecloth filled with the prepared
vegetables. The water should be just below
the false bottom and be boiling vigorously
when the products are put in. Cover with a
tight-fitting cover. Keep the water boiling
during the blanching period. For larger

FIG. 16. Meat chopper for preparing vegetables.

quantities a wash-boiler partially filled with
water is convenient. Bricks set on end or a
wooden frame raised a few inches above
the water make good supports for the con-
tainers.

Do not continue blanching longer than the
prescribed time as some of the valuable
constitutents will dissolve out, the color will
be destroyed and the starch will be partially
cooked to a paste.

The time required is short and varies with
different vegetables. For the proper time
in each case consult the directions given for
Drying on pages 25, 26, 27 and 28 and the
time-table on page 28.

After blanching, drain to remove moisture
and arrange on trays.

DANGER FROM INSECTS

In addition to exercising great care to
protect vegetables and fruits from insects
during the Drying process, precautions should
be taken with the finished product to prevent
the hatching of eggs that may have been
deposited. One measure that is useful is to
subject the dried material to a heat of 180°
F. for from 5 to 10 minutes. By the applica-
tion of this heat the eggs will be killed. Be
careful not to apply heat long enough to
damage the product. Store as soon as re-
moved from the oven.

"CONDITION" BEFORE STORING

The word "conditioning" as used in con-
nection with drying vegetables and fruits
simply means ' ' thorough drying. " It indicates
the after treatment of products on their
removal from the drying trays.

Put the dried products in bins, boxes, or,
if the quantity
is small, in bowls.
Once a day for
a period of ten
days to two
weeks, stir thor-
oughly or pour
from one box to
another. The
contai ners
should be in a clean, dry room, and pro-
tected from light and insects. Shutters and
screens at the window are desirable. Other-
wise protect the dried food by spreading
clean cloths over it. If any part of the
material is found to be moist, after this pro-
cess, return it to the drier for a short time.
When for several days no change in the
moisture content has been noticed, and
therefore no extra drying has been necessary,
the products are ready to be stored.

Properly conditioned products can be stored
without danger of spoiling, because spores and
fungi cannot begin growth if there is uniform
freedom from moisture on the surface.

PRACTICALLY ALL DRIED PROD-
UCTS SHOULD BE CONDITIONED.

FIG. 17. Croutslicer.

HOME DRYING MANUAL

FIG. 18. Vegetable and fruit
slicer.

STORAGE FOR DRIED PRODUCTS

Of importance equal to proper Drying is
the proper packing and storage of the finished
product. With the scarcity of tins and the
high prices of glass jars it is recommended
that other containers be used. Those easily
available are baking-powder cans and similar
covered tins, pasteboard boxes having tight-
fitting covers, strong paper bags, and patented

paraffin paper
boxes, which
may be bought
in quantities at
comparatively
low cost.

A paraffin con-
tainer of the
type used by
oyster dealers
for the delivery
of oysters will be
found inexpen-
sive and easily handled. If using this, or a
baking-powder can or similar container, after
filling adjust the cover closely. For storage
on a larger scale use closely built wooden
boxes with well-fitted lids. Line each box
with paraffin paper in several layers. The
paper should cover the top of the contents.

It is essential that the container should
exclude light and insects but it should not be
air-tight. Products stored in air-tight con-
tainers suffer damage through moisture which
escapes from the product and condenses in
the package.

If a paper bag is used, the top should be
twisted, doubled over and tied with a string.
Another good precau-
tion is to store bags
within an ordinary
lard pail or can or
other tin vessel hav-
ing a fairly close-fit-
ting cover.

The products
should be stored in
a warm, dry place,
well ventilated and
protected from rats,
mice and insects. An
attic or upstairs-
room which is warmed
by pipes or flues pass-
ing through makes a

very satisfactory
FIG. 19. Slicing corn. ^ Shelves ^

a furnace also make a suitable storage place.
In sections where the air is very moist,
especial care must be used. The containers
should be opened occasionally and if any
moisture has been taken up the contents
should be placed in the oven until dry.

It is good practice to use small containers
so that it may not be necessary to leave the
contents exposed long after opening before use.

For convenience label all packages.

Before storing products prepared by sun
drying, artificial heat must be applied to
destroy possible insect eggs. To do this place
the products in the oven, spread in thin

FIG. 20. Arranging "vegetables or fruits on trays.

layers, and allow them to remain until the
temperature reaches 180° F. as indicated by
a thermometer inside partially open oven.

WINTER USE OF PRODUCTS

In preparing dried vegetables and fruits
for use the first process is to restore the
water which has been dried out of them.
All dried foods require soaking. After soak-
ing the dried products will have a better
flavor if cooked in a covered utensil at a low
temperature for a long time. Dried products
should be prepared and served as fresh prod-
ucts are prepared and served. They should
be cooked in the water in which they have
been soaked, as this utilizes all of the mineral
salts, which would otherwise be wasted.

There can be no definite rule for the amount
of water required for soaking dried products
when they are to be used, as the quantity of
water evaporated in the drying process varies
with different vegetables and fruits. As a
general rule from 3 to 4 cups of water will be
required for 1 cup of dried material.

In preparing for use, peas, beans, spinach
and like vegetables should be boiled in water'
to which there has been added soda in the
proportion of y& teaspoonful of soda to 1
quart of water. This improves the color.

In preparing to serve dried vegetables
season them carefully. For this purpose
celery, mustard, onion, cheese and nutmeg
give desirable flavoring, according to taste.

From 3 to 4 quarts of vegetable soup may
be made from 4 oz. of dried soup vegetables.

DRY ALL FOOD THAT CAN BE DRIED

DIRECTIONS FOR VEGETABLE DRYING

Potatoes

Wash well, and pare very thinly. If a
rotary peeler is used, the potatoes should be
graded for size, and those of similar size
pared in groups. The eyes will have to be
removed by hand. Cut into slices
Ke to % inch thick. Blanch in
steam 1 to 3 minutes; or in boil-
ing water 2 to 3 minutes. The
water should boil vigorously
enough to keep the pieces sepa-
rated and in motion. Drain and
place on drying trays in one-inch
layers, then dry at once. The
blanching should be just long
enough to prevent darkening while
the potatoes are drying. Start
drying at a temperature of 125° F.
and raise gradually to 145° to
150° F. toward the end of the dry-
ing period. When dry enough,
the pieces of potato will be free
from opaque, spongy white places,
and will rattle when stirred. Re-
move from drier, condition and
store.

Beets, Carrots and Parsnips

Wash well, scrape off skin, and
cut into slices of a uniform thick-
ness— Ke to % inch. Blanch 2
minutes in steam or boiling water. Drain
well, spread on drying trays, and dry at
an initial temperature of 120° F. and not
exceeding 145° F. during the entire drying
period. These products are sufficiently dry
when the pieces break if an effort is made to
bend them, and when no moisture shows if
they are pressed between the fingers.

Cabbage

Take heads which are well developed.
Remove all loose outside leaves and central
stalk. Shred or cut into strips a few inches
long. Blanch in steam 3 minutes, or in
boiling water 4 minutes. Use a wire basket,
fill not more than 6 to 8 inches deep; and
stir well during the process. When drying,
spread in layers not over 1 inch deep, and
stir frequently until the product is dry enough
not to stick together in close masses. Begin
drying at 115° to 125° F. and when the cab-
bage is nearly dry, raise the temperature not
to exceed 135° F. Remove from drier when no
moisture can be squeezed out of thicker pieces
by strong pressure between the fingers.

Cauliflower

After cleaning, divide into small pieces.
The head may be cut by a vegetable slicer,
if preferred. Blanch 6 minutes in steam or
4 minutes in boiling water. Spread in thin

FIG. 21. Preparing dried products for storing.

layers on drying trays. Start at a tempera-
ture of 120° F. and gradually increase to
130° F. Although turning dark while drying,
cauliflower will regain part of original color
in soaking and cooking. The drying is com-
plete when strong pressure between the fingers
does not squeeze out moisture from the
thicker- pieces.

Celery

After washing, carefully cut into even-
length pieces — j£ inch or 1 inch is a good
measure. Blanch 3 minutes in steam or 2
minutes in boiling water. Drain well, and
spread on drying trays in >£ inch layers.
Dry at 135° F., stirring occasionally.

Garden Peas

If the pods are dusty, wash well before
shelling. Garden peas with non-edible pod
are taken when of size suitable for table use.
Blanch 3 to 5 minutes according to size, then
drain and spread on drying trays. A depth
of y^ to 1 inch is practicable, but single
layers will dry quicker. Start the drying at

FIRE PREVENTION

In home drying care should be taken that danger from fire does not result, Driers
made wholly or partly of wood should not be exposed to heat in such way that the
woodwork might catch fire if accidentally overheated or left alone too long. DO NOT
USE WOOD ON TOP OF A STOVE.

HOME DRYING MANUAL

a temperature of 115° to 120° F., raising it
gradually to 140° F. Stir occasionally.
When sufficiently dry, peas will show no
moisture near the center when split open.

For use in soups or puree, shell mature
peas, pass them through a meat grinder,
spread the pulp on trays and dry.

Spinach

Select plants which are well grown. Re-
move roots and wash well. Steam 2 minutes.
Spread on tray and dry at a constant tem-
perature of 130° F. Remove from drier
before the leaves break when handled.

Green String Beans

Select only such beans as are in perfect
condition for table use. Wash carefully and
string. It full grown they should be slit
lengthwise or cut — not snapped — into pieces
X to 1 inch long. Blanch 5 to 8 minutes
according to age. To set the color of nearly
grown beans add 2 level tablespoonfuls of
baking soda to every gallon of boiling water.
Drain well after blanching and spread in thin
layers on drying trays. Begin the drying at a
temperature of 130° F. and gradually raise
it to 140° or 145° F. Drying is complete
when no moisture can be pressed from
freshly broken pieces.

Lima Beans

Choose mature beans. Shell and blanch 3
minutes in boiling water, keeping the beans
well stirred by the motion of the rapidly
bubbling water. Drain to remove surface
moisture. Spread in thin layers on drying
trays, and stir occasionally during the drying
process. Start drying at 120° to 130° F. and
raise this temperature gradually to 150° F.

Okra

After washing, blanch young tender pods
2 to 3 minutes in boiling water or steam.
Allow 2 minutes for older pods, which should
be cut into halves or quarters. Dry the
younger pods whole. Spread on trays in
single layers and start drying at a temperature
of 115° F. to 120° F. Gradually raise this to
135° F.

Okra may also be dried by being strung on
a string and hung over the stove. This
should not be done except with young and
tender pods. Heat in oven before storing.

Onions

Peel and cut into y& to % inch slices. A
rotary slicer is convenient for this. Blanch-
ing is not needed. Spread in thin layers, on
drying trays and dry at a uniform tempera-
ture of 140° F. Stir occasionally when the
process is three-fourths done to prevent
pieces scorching. Remove promptly from
drier when pieces break on bending.

Pumpkin and Squash (Summer and Winter)

Pare, remove seeds and spongy portions.
Cut into yz inch pieces. Blanch 3 to 6 min-

utes, or until the pieces are semi-transparent.
Spread on trays. Start drying at a tem-
perature of 135° F. and raise this slowly to
160° F. These products will be pliable and
leathery when dried enough, and show no
moisture when cut.

The strips may be hung on strings and
dried in the kitchen above the stove.

Shell Beans and Peas

Beans of different kinds, after maturing
and drying on the vines, and being shelled,
should be heated to 165° to 180° F. for 10 to
15 minutes to destroy any insect eggs which
may be in them. This may be done in an
oven. These heated beans cannot be used
for planting, because they are devitalized and
will not grow. Store in a dry place in bags.

Mature lima beans need only to be shelled
and stored in bags. Cow peas or any field
pea can be treated in the same way.

Sweet Potatoes

Wash, pare and slice, blanch 6 to 8 minutes
and spread on drying trays. Dry until
brittle, starting at a temperature of 145°
to 150° F. and gradually raising it to 155°
to 165° F., when the drying is nearly done.
Remove from drier when pieces are brittle and
break under pressure.

Tomatoes

Select fruit which is firm and well ripened.
Blanch 1 or 2 minutes, or long enough to
loosen the skins. When cool enough to
handle, peel, and cut into slices ^ to ^ inch
thick. Spread in single layers on drying
trays, placing cheesecloth or other thin open-
mesh fabric over the tray bottoms if made of
wire. Start drying at a temperature of 120°
F. and raise it gradually to 140° F. When
dry enough the tomatoes will break when
bent, on conditioning they will become some-
what pliable.

Turnips

Turnips for drying should be in prime
condition and free from pithiness. Prepare
as directed for potatoes. Blanch 1 to 2
minutes, drain and spread on drying trays.
The drying temperature is 135° to 140° F.
at the beginning, gradually raised to 160° to
165° F. When dry enough the pieces will
rattle when stirred.

Wax Beans

These are dried in the same manner as lima
beans.

Soup Mixtures

Vegetables for soup mixtures are prepared
and dried separately. These are mixed as

desired.

Sweet Corn

Select ears that are at the milk stage, prime
for table use and freshly gathered. Blanch
on cob in boiling water for 8 to 12 minutes to

DRY ALL FOOD THAT CAN BE DRIED

set milk. Drain thoroughly, and with a
sharp knife cut off in layers or cut off half
the kernel and scrape off the remainder,
taking care not to include the chaff. Start

at temperature of 130° F. and raise gradually
to 140°, stirring frequently.

Corn is dry when it is hard and semi-
transparent.

DIRECTIONS FOR FRUIT DRYING

Fruits may be dried in the sun until the
surface begins to wrinkle, then finished in
the drier. With stone fruits, such as peaches,
plums, apricots and cherries, none but fruits
that are fresh, ripe and in perfect condition
should be used. With apples, pears and
quinces, effective thrift calls for using the
sound portions of fruit that may be partially
wormy or imperfect. When properly dried,
fruits should be entirely free from moisture
when pressed between the fingers on removal
from drier and should be leathery and pliable.

Sulphuring Fruits

Apples, pears, peaches and apricots are
subject to chemical changes as soon as the skin
is removed or the flesh exposed to the air.
To stop these changes and so preserve the
natural appearance, color and flavor, it is
necessary, before drying, to sulphur these
fruits, as they can not be blanched. Blanch-
ing causes loss of sugars in the blanching
process and dripping^ of the juice occurs when
blanched fruits are subjected to the heat of
the drier. Sulphuring does not affect the
food value of the fruits and is not injurious to
persons using them.

Provide a box large enough to enclose a
stack of trays. This may be a packing box
or a frame covered with canvas, building paper
or wall-board. Stack the filled trays on
bricks or blocks of wood which will hold the
bottom tray several inches above the ground.
The trays should be separated from each other
by blocks of wood. Beneath this stack place
one or two sticks of sulphur in an old sauce-
pan, shovel or other holder. Set fire to this
sulphur by using coals or lighted shavings and
invert the box to cover trays and reach to the
ground. Add sulphur as needed during the
time specified in the directions. The time
varies with various fruits and is given in
special directions on pages 27 and 28.

Apples and Pears

Pare, core and slice, dropping slices into
cold water containing eight level teaspoonfuls
of salt to the gallon, if a light-colored product
is desired. Leaving them for a short time in
salt water will prevent discoloration. (If
preferred, core the whole fruit, after peeling,
and slice into rings, dipping these for a
minute or two into cold salted water as
described above.)

To sulphur spread in trays of wire 1 to 1^4
inches deep. Put each tray as soon as filled

into the sulphuring box for 20 to 30 minutes.
When the product feels moist on the surface
and shows a lightened color, the sulphuring is
complete.

Begin drying at 130° F. and raise this
gradually to 175° F. Stir or rearrange fruit
occasionally to insure even drying. The
fruit is dry when a handful of slices is pressed
and separate when released, leaving no
moisture on the hand.

Apricots

Select ripe fruit before it drops from the
tree. Remove pits by cutting fruit open with
a sharp knife. Apricots are usually dried
with the skins on. Arrange the halves on
trays with pit cavity uppermost, and dry.
If desired, they may be sulphured before dry-
ing}— the time 1^4 to 2 hours, or until liquid
collects in the stone cavity.

Start drying at a temperature of 130° to
145° F. and raise it gradually to 165° F.
Remove from the drier when pliable and
leathery.

Berries

Dry as soon as possible after picking.
Spread in thin layers and put each tray as
soon as filled into the drier. It may be
necessary to spread cheesecloth over wire
mesh bottoms of trays to keep berries from
falling through.

It is not advisable to dry such fruits as red
raspberries, currants and strawberries, unless
no other conservative methods are con-
venient.

Start the drying at a temperature of 135°
to 145° F. and raise it gradually toward the
end of the drying process to 150° to 155° F.
Properly dried berries rattle somewhat when
stirred and show no moisture when pressed.

Cherries

Pick over well and wash. Remove surface
moisture by draining. Spread unpitted in
thin layers.

Start drying at a temperature not above
120° F. and raise gradually to 150° F. Prop-
erly dried cherries are leathery.

Figs

Select ripe figs and pick over thoroughly.
Wash, drain well and spread in single layers
on drying trays. If dried in the sun, turn
daily, protect from insects by glass or netting,
and bring indoors at night. When applying
artificial heat, start drying at a temperature
of 120° F. and raise this gradually to 140° F.
When nearly dry, immerse figs for 2 or 3
minutes in boiling brine (Y^ pound salt to
every 3 quarts water, or 1 pound to 3 gallons.)
Drain, and finish the drying.

HOME DRYING MANUAL

Peaches

Select fruit which is uniformly and fully
ripe. Cut open with a sharp knife and re-
move the pits. Peaches are not usually pared,
as the juice is lost by dripping if this is done.
To sulphur arrange in single layers on trays
with the pit surface up. Sulphuring will take
from 1-2 hours and is complete when the
juice collects in the pit. Care must be taken
when transferring trays to drier to prevent
loss of juice.

Start drying at a temperature of 130° to
145° F. and raise it gradually to 165° F. when
the process is nearly completed.

Properly dried peaches are pliable and
leathery.

Plums

Select fruit which is ripe. Remove pits by
cutting fruit open with a sharp knife. Ar-
range halves on trays in single layer with pit
cavity uppermost.

Treat with sulphur fumes 20 to 25 minutes.
When liquid collects in the pit cavity the

plums are sulphured enough, and are ready
to dry. Start drying at a temperature of
130° to 145° F. When the surface begins to
wrinkle increase slowly to 175° F.

Properly dried plums are leathery and
pliable.

Prunes

Prunes which are fully ripe and have fallen
from the trees are best for drying. Grade and
dip into boiling lye for 16 to 20 seconds.
Allow 1 oz. lye to 2 gallons water. When
dipped long enough there will be a slight in-
dication of cracking of the skin near the stem
end, but the skin will not be broken. Too
strong lye or too long a dip will cause the
skin to split and peel off.

Rinse thoroughly in cold water and then
spread on drying trays in single layers. Start
drying at 130° F. and when the surface be-
gins to wrinkle, raise the temperature very
gradually to 175° F. Properly dried prunes
show no moisture when cut or when pressed
between the fingers.

TABLE FOR BLANCHING AND DRYING

The following table shows blanching time for vegetables and the temperatures to be used
in drying by artificial heat.

Vegetables

Blanching
Time

Temperature
(Fahrenheit]

Beets

Minutes
2

Degrees
120 to 145

Cabbage

3 to 4

115 to 135

Carrots

120 to 145

Cauliflower

4 to 6

120 to 130

Celery

2 to 3

135

Figs

120 to 140

Garden peas . .

3 to 5

115 to 140

Green string beans ....

5 to 8

130 to 145

Lima beans

150

Okra

115 to 135

Onions

140

Parsnips.

120 to 145

Potatoes .

2 to 3

125 to 150

Prunes

130 to 175

Pumpkin and AVinter squash

3 to 6

135 to 160

Spinach

130

Summer squash

3 to 6

135 to 160

Sweet corn

8 to 12

130 to 140

Sweet potatoes

6 to 8

145 to 165

Tomatoes

1>£

120 to 140

Turnips

1 to 2

135 to 165

Wax beans

150

Fruits
Annies

130 to 175

Apricots . ....

130 to 165

Berries

130 to 155

Cherries

120 to 150

Peaches

130 to 165

Pears . ...

130 to 175

Plums

130 to 165

The exact time for Drying cannot be given. Individual judgment must be used following the
directions in "Details of Drying," on page 22, and the directions on pages 25, 26, 27 and 28.

DRY ALL FOOD THAT CAN BE DRIED

FERMENTATION AND SALTING

The use of brine in preparing vegetables
for winter use has much to commend it to the
household. The fermentation method is in
general use in Europe, and is becoming better
known in this country as a
means of making sour-crout
and other food products
which do not require the
containers used for canning.
No cooking is required by
this process. Salt brine is
the one requirement. The
product may be kept in any
container that is not made
of metal and is water-tight.
The vital factor in preserv-
ing the material is the lactic
acid which develops in fer-
mentation. An important
feature is that vegetables
thus prepared may be served
as they are or they may be freshened by
soaking in clear water and cooked as fresh
vegetables.

Sour-crout

The outside leaves of the cabbage should be
removed, the core cut crosswise several times
and shredded very finely with the rest of the
cabbage. Either summer growth or fall
cabbage may be used. Immediately pack
into a barrel, keg or tub, which is perfectly
clean, or into an earthenware crock holding
four or five gallons. The smaller containers
are recommended for household use. While

packing dis-
tribute salt
as uniformly
as possible,
using 1
po u nd of
salt to 40
pounds of
cabbage.
Sprinkle a
little salt in
the con-
tainer and
put in a lay-
er of 3 or 4
inches of
shredded

FIG. 23. Arrangement of cover on cabbage and
crock containing fermented products, pack down
Note the use of paraffin, board and gently witn a

wooden

utensil like a potato masher. Repeat
with salt, cabbage and packing until the
container is full or the shredded cabbage is
all used. Press the cabbage down as tightly

as possible and apply a cloth and then a
glazed plate or a board cover which will go
inside the holder. If using a wooden cover
select wood free from pitch, such as basswood.

FIG. 22. Articles used in fermenting vegetables.

On top of this cover place stones or other
weights (using flint or granite and avoiding
the use of limestone or sandstone). These
weights serve to force brine above cover.

Allow fermentation to proceed for 10 days
or two weeks, if the room is warm. In a
cellar or other cool place three to five weeks
may be required. Skim off the film which
forms when fermentation starts and repeat
this daily if necessary to keep this film
from becoming scum. When gas bubbles
cease to arise, if container is tapped, the
fermentation is complete. If there is scum it
should be removed. As a final step pour
melted paraffin over the brine until it forms a
layer from >£ to >£ inch thick to prevent the
formation of the scum which occurs if the
weather is warm or the storage place is not
well cooled. This is not necessary unless the
crout is to be kept a long time. The crout
may be used as soon as the bubbles cease to
rise. If scum forms and remains the crout
will spoil. Remove scum, wash cloth cover
and weights, pour off old brine and add new.
To avoid this extra trouble it is wise to can
the crout as soon as bubbles cease to rise
and fermentation is complete. (To can, fill
jars, adjust rubbers and partly seal. Steril-
ize 120 minutes in Hot- water Bath or 60
minutes in Steam Pressure Outfit at 5 to 10
pounds pressure.)

SALTING WITHOUT FERMENTATION

Preserving cabbage, string beans and greens
for winter use by salting is a method which has
long been used. To do this the vegetables
should be washed, drained and weighed. The
amount of salt needed will be one-fourth
of the weight of the vegetables. Kegs or

HOME DRYING MANUAL

crocks make satisfactory containers. Put a
layer of vegetables about an inch thick on the
bottom of the container. Cover this with
salt. Continue making alternate layers of
vegetables and salt until the container is
almost filled. The salt should be evenly
distributed so that it will not be necessary to
use more salt than the quantity required in
proportion to the vegetables used. Cover the
surface with a cloth and a board or glazed
plate. Place a weight on these and set aside
in a cool place. If sufficient liquor to cover
the vegetables has not been extracted by the
next day, pour in enough strong brine (1
pound of salt to 2 quarts of water) to cover
surface around the cover. The top layer of
vegetables should be kept under the brine to
prevent molding. There will be some bubbling
at first. As soon as this stops set the con-
tainer where it will not be disturbed until
ready for use. Seal by pouring very hot
paraffin on the surface.

THE USE OF BRINE

This method is used for cucumbers, string
beans, green tomatoes, beets, corn and peas,
as these vegetables do not contain enough
water for a good brine using only salt. Wash
and put in a crock or other container within
3 or 4 inches of the top. Pour over them a
brine made by adding to every 4 quarts of
water used >£ pint of vinegar and % cup salt.
The amount of brine needed will be about y£
the volume of the material to be fermented.
When fermentation is complete the container
should be sealed as detailed for sour-crout.

To Ferment Cucumbers
Unless the cucumbers are from your own
garden wash them carefully to insure cleanli-
ness after indiscriminate handling. Pack
them in a keg, barrel or crock, leaving space
at the top for the cover. Cover them with a
brine made by adding to every 4 quarts of
water used % pint of vinegar and ^ cup of
salt. The amount of brine needed will be
one-half of the volume of the material to be
fermented. Place a wooden cover or glazed
plate on top of the contents and press it down
by weighting it with a stone or other weight,
to keep the cucumbers under the brine. Fer-
mentation will require from 8 to 10 days in

warm weather and from 2 to 4 weeks in cool
weather. It is complete when bubbles cease
to rise when the container is lightly tapped or
jarred. When this stage is reached remove
any scum which may have collected, pour hot
paraffin over the cover and around the weight
and store in a cool place.

Green Tomatoes

The process for green tomatoes is the same
as that for cucumbers.

Beets and String Beans
Remove the strings from beans. Beets
should be washed thoroughly and packed
whole. Spices may be used, as with cucum-
bers, but these may be omitted if the vege-
tables are to be freshened by soaking, when
they are to be used. The method is the
same as with cucumbers.

PREPARING FOR USE

To prepare salted vegetables for use, soak
in 3 or 4 times their volume of cold water to
draw out excess salt. One or two changes of
water will shorten this process. They
should then be" drained and rinsed well, put in
cold water, brought slowly to a boil, and
cooked until tender. They may then be pre-
pared and served as fresh products are pre-
pared and served.

Fermented vegetables should be rinsed in
fresh water after removing from the container.
To retain the acid flavor do not soak in water
before cooking.

If cooked without soaking, fermented
dandelions, spinach, kale and other greens
will have flavor similar to that of the greens
in their fresh state.

Fermented corn should be soaked several
hours, with three or four changes of water.
During the cooking also there should be one
change of water. The corn may then be
used in chowder, pudding, omelet, fritters or
waffles.

Salted string beans should be soaked to
remove the salt and then prepared and served
as fresh beans are prepared and served.
Fermented string beans may be cooked
without soaking and served as the fresh
beans are served. Young and tender string
beans may be eaten raw.

PICKLING VEGETABLES

Pickling is an important branch of home
preparedness for the winter months. Pickles
have little food value, but they give a flavor to
a meal which is liked by many. They should
not be given to children.

In pickling, vegetables are usually soaked
overnight in a brine made of 1 cup of salt
and 1 quart of water. This brine removes the

water of the vegetable and so prevents
weakening of the vinegar. In the morning
the brine is drained off.

Alum should not be used to make the
vegetables crisp, as it is harmful to .the human
body. A firm product is obtained if the
vegetables are not cooked too long or at too
high a temperature.

DRY ALL FOOD THAT CAN BE DRIED

Spices, unless confined in a bag, give a dark
color to the pickles.

Enameled, agate or porcelain-lined kettles
should be used when cooking mixtures con-
taining vinegar.

Pickles put in crocks should be well covered
with vinegar to prevent molding.

Instructions for some of the most com-
monly used methods are given herewith.

Tomato Catsup

4 quarts ripe tomatoes, boil and strain.
Add 4 tablespoonfuls of salt.
2 cups of vinegar.

1 level teaspoonful each of cayenne pepper, cin-
namon, cloves, allspice, mustard and black pepper.

Boil rapidly until thick. Pour into hot
sterilized bottles. Put the corks in tightly
and apply hot paraffin to the tops with a
brush to make an airtight seal. All spices,
except cayenne pepper, should be enclosed in
cloth bag and removed when catsup is done.

Chili Sauce

2 dozen ripe tomatoes (dip in boiling water to peel).
6 peppers (3 to be hot).

3 onions.

2/5 cup of corn syrup.

2 tablespoonfuls of salt.

1 teaspoonful each of cloves, nutmeg and allspice.

1 quart of vinegar.

Simmer 1 hour. Pour into sterilized jars
or bottles and seal while hot.

Chow Chow

2 pints cucumbers. (1 pint to be small ones).

1 cauliflower soaked in salted water for one hour.

2 green peppers.

1 quart onions.

Chop the above in small pieces. Sprinkle
1 cup of salt over them and let stand all
night. Drain well in the morning.

The sauce for Chow Chow is made as
follows:

2 quarts vinegar.

yi pound of mustard.

1 tablespoonful of turmeric.
4/5 cup of corn syrup.

^ cup of flour.

Make a paste of the mustard, turmeric,
sugar, flour and a little vinegar. Stir this
into the warm vinegar and boil until thick.
Then add the vegetables and simmer for
}& hour. Stir to prevent burning. Put in
cans while hot.

Cold Tomato Relish

8 quarts firm, ripe tomatoes; scald, cold-dip and then
chop in small pieces.

To the chopped tomato add:

2 cups chopped onion.
2 cups chopped celery.

2 cups corn syrup.

1 CUD white mustard seed.

H cup salt.

4 chopped peppers.

1 teaspoonful ground mace.

1 teaspoonful black pepper.

4 teaspoonfuls cinnamon.

3 pints vinegar.

Mix all together and pack in sterilized jars.

Corn Relish

1 small cabbage.

1 large onion.
6 ears of corn.

2 tablespoonfuls of salt.
2 tablespoonfuls of flour.
\y^ cups of corn syrup.

2 hot peppers.

1 pint of vinegar.

1^2 tablespoonfuls of mustard.

Steam corn 30 minutes. Cut from the cob
and add to the chopped cabbage, onion and
peppers. Mix the flour, sugar, mustard and
salt — add the vinegar. Add mixture to the
vegetables and simmer 30 minutes. Pour
into sterilized jars or bottles and seal while
hot.

Cucumber Pickles

Soak in brine made of 1 cup of salt to 2
quarts of water for a day and night. Remove
from brine, rinse in cold water and drain.
Cover with vinegar, add 1 tablespoonful
brown sugar, some stick cinnamon, and cloves
to every quart of vinegar used ; bring to a boil
and pack in jars. For sweet pickles use 1 cup
of sugar to 1 quart of vinegar.

Dill Pickles

To make dill pickles follow the directions
for fermenting cucumbers, page 30, using
alternate layers of dill leaves, whole mixed
spices and cucumbers. The top layer should
be of beet or grape leaves an inch thick.

Green Tomato Pickle

Take 4 quarts of green tomatoes, 4 small
onions and 4 green peppers. Slice the
tomatoes and onions thin. Sprinkle over
them >^ cup of salt and leave overnight in
crock or enameled vessel. The next morning
drain off the brine. Into a separate vessel
put 1 quart of vinegar, 1 level tablespoonful
each of black pepper, mustard seed, celery
seed, cloves, allspice and cinnamon and 1 cup
of corn syrup. Bring^to a boil and then add
the prepared tomatoes, onions and peppers.
Let simmer for 20 minutes. Fill jars and
seal while hot.

Green Tomato Pickle

Wash and slice tomatoes. Soak in a brine
of y^ cup of salt to 1 quart of water overnight.
Drain well. Put in a crock and cover with
vinegar to which have been added stick cinna-
mon and 1 cup of corn syrup for every quart
of vinegar used. Once a day for a week pour
off vinegar, heat to boiling and pour over
tomatoes again. Cover top of crock with a
cloth and put on cover. This cloth should
be frequently washed.

Mustard Pickles

2 quarts of green tomatoes.

1 cauliflower.

2 quarts of green peppers.
2 quarts of onions.

Wash, cut in small pieces and cover with
1 quart of water and ~% cup of salt. Let
stand 1 hour, bring to the boiling point and

HOME DRYING MANUAL

PROLONG THE SEASON

The season for home canning and drying does not end with summer or early autumn.
Many things may be canned or dried in October and November. Among these are
turnips, spinach, squash, pumpkin, carrots, parsnips, cabbage, celery, beets, late corn,
kale, chard, salsify and tomatoes.

drain. Mix }£ pound mustard, 1 cup of
flour, 4 cups of corn syrup, and vinegar to
make a thin paste. Add this paste to 2 quarts
of vinegar and cook until thick, stir constantly
to prevent burning. Add vegetables, boil
15 minutes and seal in jars.

Piccalilli

4 quarts of green tomatoes.
1 quart of onions.

1 hot red pepper.

2 cups of corn syrup.
% cup of salt.

1*4 ounces each of mustard seed, cloves and allspice.
2 cups of vinegar.

Simmer 1 hour. Put into a covered crock.
Pickled Onions

Peel, wash and put in brine, using 2 cups of
salt to 2 quarts water. Let stand 2 days, pour
off brine. Cover with fresh brine and let
stand 2 days longer. Remove from brine
wash and pack in jars, cover with hot vinegar
to which whole cloves, cinnamon and allspice
have been added.

Spiced Crab -Apples

Wash apples, stick 3 or 4 whole cloves in
each one and cover with vinegar to which

have been added stick cinnamon and \% cups
corn syrup for every quart of vinegar used.
Cook slowly at a low temperature until apples
are heated through. These may be put in
jar or stone crocks.

Sweet Pickled Peaches

Wipe peaches and stick 3 or 4 whole cloves
in each one. Put in jars or crock and cover
with hot vinegar, allowing 3}i cups of corn
syrup to each quart of vinegar used. Every
morning for a week pour off the vinegar, heat
to boiling and pour over peaches again. On
the last day seal jars or cover crock well.

Table Relish
Chop:

4 quarts of cabbage.

2 quarts of tomatoes, 1 quart to be green.

6 large onions.

2 hot peppers.

Add:

2 ounces of white mustard seed.

1 ounce of celery seed.
M cup of salt.

6 cups of corn syrup.

2 quarts of vinegar.

Simmer 1 hour. Pour into sterilized jars
or bottles and seal while hot.

This manual was prepared by the Commission's experts and is based on their own
research and experience, supplemented by information procured from the United States
Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Colleges, Experiment Stations, and other sources.

The National War Garden Commission, wishing to do all within its power to aid the War
Industries Board in the very necessary economy in the use of paper, has limited the edition
of this book and asks those who receive it in quantity to make the most careful distribution
so that the book may reach the hands of none but those who will use it. IF THE INDIVID-
UAL RECIPIENT CAN NOT USE THIS BOOK IT IS URGED THAT IT BE HANDED TO
SOME ONE WHO WILL USE IT.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

CANNING

Advantages of Cold-pack Method

Arranging for canning

Blanching and cold-dipping

Botulism

Canning in Tin

Cold-pack Method in the South . .

Community canning

Containers

Equipment for Cold-pack Method

Page

. 5

. 8

. 14

Fruit canning, directions 13

Grading vegetables and fruits 7

High Altitudes 5

Methods of Canning 4

Steps in Cold-pack Method 8

Tests for jars and rubbers 6, 7

Time-table for blanching and sterilizing

Vegetable canning, directions 10

DRYING

Artificial heat 20

Blanching , 23

Community drying 19

DRYING (Continued) Page

Conditioning dried products 23

Details of drying 22

Electric fan 21

Fire prevention 25

Fruit drying, directions 27

Insects, protection from 23

Methods of drying 19

On top of or over stove or range 20

Oven drying 20

Preparing food material for drying 22

Storage of dried products 24

Sun drying 19

Time-table for drying 28

Vegetable drying, directions 25

Winter use of dried products 24

FERMENTATION AND SALTING. 29

FRUIT BUTTERS 17

JELLY MAKING 16

PICKLING 30

SOUR-CROUT 29

UNITED STATES FOOD ADMINISTRATION

Mobile, Alabama.
September 6th, 1918.
MR. P. S. RIDSDALE, Secretary,

National War Garden Commission,
WASHINGTON, D. C.

Dear Mr. Rid sd ale:

It is needless for me to assure you that the books have been extremely
helpful. I consider them the most complete and serviceable ever produced;
and excepting only the family Bible, the foundation of all ethics and morality as
well as the common law, these books are of more vital importance to every house-
holder, in fact, good citizens throughout the land, than most printed matter
obtainable.

Your books on canning and drying are likewise of inestimable value, and
your splendid co-operation in the common cause of increasing and conserving
the food supply in, our present crisis meets with the heartiest appreciation.

Very sincerely,
(Signed)' HENRY A. FORCHHEIMER,

Federal Food Administration Board.

UNITED STATES FOOD ADMINISTRATION

Davenport, Iowa.
September 5, 1918.
MR. P. S. RIDSDALE, Secretary,

National War Garden Commission,
WASHINGTON, D. C.

My dear Mr. Ridsdale:

We have found your publications of great value in our work in this State
and it gives me pleasure to thank you for your prompt and cordial compliance
with all of our requests.

Your book on War Vegetable Gardening and the one devoted to Canning and
Drying are filled with information of great value to the gardener and housewife.

We feel that your co-operation has been of great importance.

Faithfully yours,

(Signed) M. L. PARKER,

State Merchant Representative,

Iowa Food Administration.

After J. N. Darling, in New York Tribune.

NATIONAL WAR GARDEN COMMISSION

A Patriotic Organization Affiliated with the Conservation Department
of the American Forestry Association

WASHINGTON, D. C.

CHARLES LATHROP PACK, President.

PERCIVAL S. RIDSDALE, Secretary.

LUTHER BURBANK, Calif.
DR. CHARLES W. ELIOT, Mass.
DR. IRVING FISHER, Conn.
FRED H. GOFF, Ohio
JOHN HAYS HAMMOND, Mass.
FAIRFAX HARRISON, Va.
HON. MYRON T. HERRICK, Ohio.
P. P. CLAXTON, U. S.

NORMAN C. McLouo, Associate Secretary.

DR. JOHN GRIER HIBBEN, N. J.
EMERSON McMiLLiN, N. Y.
CHARLES LATHROP PACK, N. J.
A. W. SHAW, 111.

MRS. JOHN DICKINSON SHERMAN, 111.
CAPT. J. B. WHITE, Mo.
HON. JAMES WILSON, Iowa.
Commissioner of Education.

THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE
STAMPED BELOW

AN INITIAL FINE OF 25 CENTS

WILL BE ASSESSED FOR FAILURE TO RETURN
THIS BOOK ON THE DATE DUE. THE PENALTY
WILL INCREASE TO SO CENTS ON THE FOURTH
DAY AND TO $1.OO ON THE SEVENTH DAY
OVERDUE.

APR 30 Iiy43

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UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY

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